Petter A1 rebuild and Parts
Endacy
I used to have a restored LD1 but had to give it away to make space,
i'll get another one one day...
Anyway I know A1's aren't all that great but it's still interesting
working on it! It's got a good spark now I cleaned up the mag and the
carb is repaired but when I turn it over with my hand over the exhaust
I feel it blow AND suck through it, this indicates the valves are not
sealing properly and this is backed up by a very low compression
figure from a compression tester. I want to grind the valves in and
clean out the carbon buildup that is almost certainly in there,
however, does anyone have a number for a company that can supply me
the gaskets i'll need? I will need a head gasket and presumably one
for under the cylinder where it meets the block, or isn't there one
there? I have made my own carb gaskets using gasket paper but can you
get material to make head gaskets?
Here are some pics and text I have put together and will update as I
do other jobs http://petter.hot-banana.com
Cheers for any info!
James
Martyn Butler
theres several things you need to watch out for.
The magneto connection to the crank case, (the aluminum bracket
crystalises and breaks apart as soon as you take it off, these are
very hard to replace,
The gasket that goes between the cylinder head, and the barrel, is
made out of copper, they can be brought for about £6, I cant remeber
off the top of my head where, although i know you can buy them fairly
easily,
Best bet for now is check SEM (stationary Engine Magizine). There are
several stockist though and i will continue to do my research into
which it is.
On the compression side, of things simply either one of the following,
take the head off, and de coke the engine by removing the vavles, be
careful as the colics ping out and are very difficult to find, clean
the valves with emrey cloth, then with sand paper or maybe a chisel if
its really lumpy scrap off the crud, then using griding paste, corse
to start with, grind the valve back in, i dunno if u know how to do
this but ill tell you nehow, its as simple as 4 steps:
1. covered the seat in the griding paste
2.place valve back in it checkin its the correct one. EX on the left
side, ive always found.
3.twist it with a screwdriver and let the valve make the paste go
green, simple keep turnging alternate directions and eveyr so often
pick up the valve spin it round n drop it back in, and proceeed again
untill u get a dull grey line round the top of the valve and the edge
of the value hole. roughly about 2 mm thick,
4. replace the colic with a valve compression tool.
or the easier way although im not sure if it will work, is to, (ive
used this method and it dose work)
if u are sure u have fuel into your engine via the carb take a syringe
and fill it up with 5 ml petrol spray it down the bore, replace the
spark which should be a C14 lodge, i do have conversions if you need
it, then crank it over, it will fire very rich but it the engine is
correct it will get it going the the pistion will bind itself back in.
please remember this is what i use, maybe not the best of solutions
but it makes the engine run,
Martyn, hope it helps, ill try and find them numbers for you, and i
may as well post the conversions for the spark plugs anyhow for a
PETTER A/A1
PS: hope it goes well, there great engines, in my eyes, please just
check the cowlin is in wicked condition if not i recommend you dont
run it any longer than a few seconds, me
Martyn Butler
John Manders
You mentioned the lack of exhaust. My A1 is an ex military engine and it has
never had a normal exhaust. The exhaust outlet is simply a piece of pipe
about 2" long with a cross hole drilled in it. The actual exhaust is a
length of flexible pipe with a silencer at the end. This was slipped over
the stub pipe and retained by a split pin through the cross hole. I assume
that the engine was meant to be run in a tent with the exhaust piped to the
outside. It seems to work well enough.
John
"Endacy" <end...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
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Roland and Celia Craven
gennies. My JAP 5 uses such and I managed to buy a batch at our local ex-gov
dealer a few years back.
ttfn
Roland
"John Manders" <j.ma...@rl.ac.uk> wrote in message
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Nick H
(de-coking used to be a pretty regular job) so remove the head carefully and
providing it has not been abused in the past, you may well get away with it.
It is also possible that the exhaust valve is just sticking or sitting on a
bit of loose carbon, so before going any further it's worth taking the
tappet cover off, freeing valve if neccesary then levering it a few times
letting it snap back onto its seat.
--
NHH
"Endacy" <end...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
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Endacy
showing a rebuilt one of these, looks good! I also recieved a parcel
with another manifold and carb that I bought as a spare should I need
it.
Today I took the head off and found the head gasket is in fairly good
nick, so I should be OK there. There was lots of carbon buildup but
before I bother grinding the valves in, how much play should a piston
have in the bore of one of these engines? I can wobble the piston in
the bore with somewhere between 3-8 thou of play (maybe, not to
sure!), quite a bit. Is this normal to allow for expansion? It seems
like way too much. I managed to get the valves out with some
creativity, the exhaust valve is slightly worn but it isn't too bad.
The bore has no discernable wear step at the top however it does have
a score down it that i can feel with my fingernail, how serious is
this considering this isn't a car engine? I don't intend on taking the
engine apart much more than this if I can get it running OK as it is
but am I into piston out time now?
Oh i have a added a few pics to my page.
Cheers
James
Max Wilkinson
My Petter A is in a similar state to yours at the moment , one thing I
noticed that is different is that the starting handle appears to be on the
other side of the engine to the flywheel , is this the normal place it
should be ? The starting handle on mine slides onto the flywheel axel with a
round bolted 'blanking plate' over the area where the axel prutrudes on your
engine .
Im sure both designs work well , just wondering if and why my engine has
been modified .
Try to get some pictures in the near future
Cheers ,
Max
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<m...@tonguebrinkDOTfsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>Hey ,
>My Petter A is in a similar state to yours at the moment , one thing I
>noticed that is different is that the starting handle appears to be on the
>other side of the engine to the flywheel , is this the normal place it
>should be ? The starting handle on mine slides onto the flywheel axel with a
>round bolted 'blanking plate' over the area where the axel prutrudes on your
>engine .
>Im sure both designs work well , just wondering if and why my engine has
>been modified .
>Try to get some pictures in the near future
It is the difference between a Mk I and Mk II A1 (according to my
parts catalogue).
--
k
Max Wilkinson
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<m...@tonguebrink.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
><use_reply_to_a...@unusual.com> wrote in message
>news:dpdhg092vq77a5ipj...@4ax.com...
>> On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 00:01:42 +0100, "Max Wilkinson"
>> <m...@tonguebrinkDOTfsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> >Hey ,
>> >My Petter A is in a similar state to yours at the moment , one thing I
>> >noticed that is different is that the starting handle appears to be on
>the
>> >other side of the engine to the flywheel , is this the normal place it
>> >should be ? The starting handle on mine slides onto the flywheel axel
>with a
>> >round bolted 'blanking plate' over the area where the axel prutrudes on
>your
>> >engine .
>> >Im sure both designs work well , just wondering if and why my engine has
>> >been modified .
>> >Try to get some pictures in the near future
>>
>> It is the difference between a Mk I and Mk II A1 (according to my
>> parts catalogue).
>>
MkII (and Mk III and Mk IV) uses starting handle on "flywheel axle".
--
k
J K Siddorn
such a low compression engine, especially one that is no longer likely to
see a great deal of heavy work.
That said, if t'wer I, I'd have the barrel off now you've got this far and
look at the rings which may be broken. If so, they will chaw up the bore
summut 'orrid, heavily loaded or no! Catching it early will just mean a set
of rings, but when they have danced up and down in the ring grooves for a
while, they'll gnaw away the ring lands too and then its New Piston & Rebore
time.
Regards,
Kim Siddorn,
Endacy
tomorrow, I hope the gasket is similar to the head and comes off in
one piece. I spent ages today grinding in the valves and refitting
them with the barrel in place, that's a nightmare job...oh well fun
job tomorrow then! Cheers for the help.
J K Siddorn
packet.
Get a tube of silicone sealer, put a blob on finger and thumb and work it
into the cardboard all the way round. Coat it both sides with the thinnest
possible layer. Put it aside to dry for 24 hours and you will have created a
rubber faced gasket that will NOT leak.
If you fit it straight away with the Silicone wet, it will probably seep oil
along the joint line. Wait the extra day and get a nice, dry engine!
Regards,
Kim Siddorn,
Endacy
gasket paper in the end, I can get it from my local motor factors. The
piston and rings were fine until I tried to take the bottom ring off
to clean it (the one with the holes - oil scraper?) and it promptly
broke in half. So anyone know where I can get spares? I'll give a few
numbers a go that I can find in my back issue of SEM and will probably
just subscribe anyway but if anyone has a number to hand that'd be
great. No new pictures yet, always too oily to use the digital camera!
J K Siddorn
01244 851227
Regards,
Kim
"Endacy" <end...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
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Endacy
updated the page, it has run! Needed some ingenuity to fix a sheared
stud...check it out.
Roland and Celia Craven
You are now on the slippery path that leads through insanity to the award of
an anorak :-)
BSF/BSW taps and dies can be picked up at Jumbles or bought second hand very
reasonably from the likes of Pennyfarthing tools or the Toolbox.
regards
--
Roland Craven
nr Exeter Devon, UK
rol...@petternut.co.uk
http://www.petternut.co.uk
"Endacy" <end...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
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No Name
I have a Petter A1. I visited Dorset Steam Fair and found one running.
This filled me with 'go' and after some TLC mine runs too - after maybe 35
years waiting. I need paint tint, transfers, manual, club.
Old 20 Parts sent a flyer about 4 years ago NVTEC. Web site?
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Whittler Kev
H I I'm a newbee but surfed and found this thread
I've just got an A1 and can't get it running
Fires every 1/2 pull but won't keep running. Carb cleaned, new fuel and a
good spark. Good compression. No kick back or popping through the carb.
One or 2 pops then stops......Suggestions
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arobi...@gmail.com
I have just acquired two Petter A1s. One was complete and after servicing the magneto is now running so I will now start to renovate. The second one doesn't have a magneto but I am little confused. The one that is now running has a Wico magneto that fits directly into the back of the timing chain housing. The engine with the missing magneto has what looks like a cast aluminium housing fitted to the back of the housing - does this mean that I need a different type of magneto?
Hoping for some advice.
Andy