Idwal Slabs... Any good?
Michael Halls-Moore
I've been climbing indoors for about a year now, and have recently
started venturing out further afield to Ogwen and Llanberis. I have
been practising the multi-pitch ropework techniques on Tryfan Fach and
I even had a [brief!] go on Flying Buttress in the Llanberis pass.
However, I really enjoyed Tryfan Fach, because it was relatively
simple climbing, very straightforward to protect and just bloody good
fun. However, there is only so much of it I can take...and I want to
venture further afield to a place that is a lot bigger, but not that
much technically harder or more difficult to protect.
Since I'm a novice to outdoor climbing, I wanted to know how the Idwal
Slabs hold up against similar climbing in the area. I believe that
this very own NG had a meet up there in 2000 (on Steve Pardoe's
website, great photos BTW Steve!).
I am interested in knowing roughly how many routes there are there,
what grades they range from (and the "average" grade) and more
importantly, how easy they are to protect.
I'm going to buy the Ogwen and Carneddau guide book for the area (I'll
be heading on down there soon!), but I was after some first-hand
accounts from you guys!!
Cheers folks,
Mike.
Andy Harbach
> I am interested in knowing roughly how many routes there are there,
> what grades they range from (and the "average" grade) and more
> importantly, how easy they are to protect.
> I'm going to buy the Ogwen and Carneddau guide book for the area
Without going in to too much detail, I did most of my initial climbing
(and learned to climb) on the Slabs. There are a wide range of grades.
The front face consists of several V Diffs and Severes which are
excellent to start on. There are much harder grades on the side of the
Slabs. I am sure you would enjoy it. The guide is well worth getting.
Best wishes,
--
Andy Harbach
email: andyh...@abelgratis.com
Walking in Snowdonia: http://www.walk-snowdonia.co.uk
Carol Haynes
brave Tennis Shoe (HS4b) is also excellent. There is good protection on both
routes (Except possibly the last pitch of Tennis Shoe which is a bit sparse
on gear - but if you don't like it you can easily miss out the last pitch
and just bimble up the main slab area)
The hardest part is getting off and I would recommend the first time you
climb there go with someone who knows the way down. Also be prepared to use
a rope on the descent - there are one or two steps that are a bit hairy the
first time you do them!!
Finally, the slabs get VERY busy so get there early to get the pick of the
climbs.
--
Carol Haynes
www.playoutdoors.org.uk
www.swaledaleoutdoorclub.org.uk
Group site for uk.rec.walking: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ukrw/
To reply by email remove obvious spam trap from my address.
"Michael Halls-Moore" <mic...@halls-moore.com> wrote in message
news:rs5aougnatgnce7l3...@4ax.com...
Tony Buckley
starting out on leading multi-pitch routes. They can be crowded and they
are polished, a testament to their quality but an additional factor to bear
in mind; on the plus side, if you're there for the first time it makes route
finding a little easier! Ordinary route might be the best one to start with
(though not in the rain, when it resembles a fish ladder). Of the three
virtues Hope is perhaps the best for a beginner; the start of Charity is
polished to a mirror finish and Faith has an exposed section which might
prove a little nerve-wracking.
If you're buying the guidebook though, you might want to have a look at
First Pinnacle Rib or Grooved Arete on Tryfan. The Yellow Slab on FPR is
noticeably harder than the rest of the route but can be avoided.
Alternatively there are some easy climbs on Bochlywd Buttress that might
also provide a good introduction and will be less busy.
Tony
"Carol Haynes" <lairdswoodDO...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:am49ht$2h2oe$1...@ID-104261.news.dfncis.de...
Steve Pardoe
Michael Halls-Moore <mic...@halls-moore.com> wrote in message
news:rs5aougnatgnce7l3...@4ax.com...
<snip>
> Since I'm a novice to outdoor climbing, I wanted to know how the Idwal
> Slabs hold up against similar climbing in the area. I believe that
> this very own NG had a meet up there in 2000 (on Steve Pardoe's
> website, great photos BTW Steve!).
Cheers, glad you found it, it was a good day.
Just a word about the Slabs, if you are used to climbing indoors, you may
find the polish a bit disconcerting. Idwal has been popular for about a
century, and it shows! And some of the descent routes are far from obvious.
Super location, though, full of history and character.
There's also good stuff on Tryfan, such as Milestone Buttress, some pictures
here http://www.pardoes.com/climbing/milestone.htm from a couple of weeks
ago.
The guide books will tell you of lots more. Enjoy.
Steve
Mad_Woman
first multi pitch lead and i only lead at VD level most the time.
Its a popular place, when i got there there were already 11 people at
various stages of the route i was going to do.
Its fairly polished at the bottom, but its still nice to climb.
There are 7 routes, 3 are VD, all those have stars, one D called
ordinary route which is what i did and was very nice and then an E6 ,
HS and HVS. The slab itself has about 4 good pitches on it, then there
is about 5 scrambling pitches to the top, but i used a rope as the
consequence of falling of ment bouncing al the way to the bottom.
The way off is not very nice and you wouldnt want to do it in the
dark, the scrambling at the top seems to go on forever, and you need
to follow the "path" right to the top to get down safely, there is
about 4m down climb to the path below, it looks far worse than it is,
it does have easy big hand holds.
I guess on it taking about 3 hours to do a route and get back down
again
I also had a look at Clogwyn Y Tarw which is on the left of the path
just as you hit llyn ogwen to walk round to idwal slabs, didnt manage
to climb though as the top dissappeared into the clouds as i looked.
PS if you go by the ogwen guide book grid reference to idwal slabs,
you will find yourself standing in the middle of the lake, but it is
obvious when you get there where the stab is
annie
Simon Caldwell
<lairdswoodDO...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>There is good protection on both routes
That's what everyone to be saying, but I'd say that protection on the
first pitch of Hope is sparse to say the least, and takes some
finding. I'd have been distinctly worried if I was new to outdoor
climbing.
Don't let me put you off though, Hope is one of my favourite routes
anywhere.
>Finally, the slabs get VERY busy so get there early to get the pick of the
>climbs.
I've been there several times including sunny weekends in August and
never had to queue - just don't go with your heart set on specific
route, be prepared to change plans depending on what's free.
Simon
John B
> i went there a few weeks back and yes it is a nice place, it was my
> first multi pitch lead and i only lead at VD level most the time.
> Its a popular place, when i got there there were already 11 people at
> various stages of the route i was going to do.
> Its fairly polished at the bottom, but its still nice to climb.
>
>
> The way off is not very nice and you wouldnt want to do it in the
> dark, the scrambling at the top seems to go on forever, and you need
> to follow the "path" right to the top to get down safely, there is
> about 4m down climb to the path below, it looks far worse than it is,
> it does have easy big hand holds.
>
> I guess on it taking about 3 hours to do a route and get back down
> again
It has however taken longer
(http://www.ogwen-rescue.org.uk/ovmro/reports/2000/frameset.htm - see
entry for October!)
.
snip
> annie
One thing to remember on the Slabs is a helmet, as the rain of loose
bits, gear and the occasional soloist comes bouncing towards you. Also
there are rude people who climb across your rope, and occasional
leavings from those who "really can't wait".
Pierre Maxted
> I also had a look at Clogwyn Y Tarw which is on the left of the path
> just as you hit llyn ogwen to walk round to idwal slabs, didnt manage
> to climb though as the top dissappeared into the clouds as i looked.
Climbed on Clowyn Y Tarw a.k.a. The Gribin Facet on Saturday. The
VDiff chimney start to Slab Route (D) makes for a nice little
excursion and there is plenty of gear all the way, particularly for
small hexes - in fact I found I was placing small hexes all weekend
- what a great bit of gear. I also tried Llyn, the HS chimney which
also leads onto Slab Route. It's a good route, particularly if you
are bold enough to swing out onto the face at the awkward bulge,
which I admit I wasn't so I had to udge up the chimney instead -
also good gear, take a big hex for the crux. Descent gully is
awkward at the bottom, but there are good bollards for a short abseil
if you can't be bothered to down-climb. It stays in the shade most of
the day, so take some midge repellant.
-Pierre