Scirocco Mk2 Cold Start and Idle Problem
Gary Meakin
this out for a while. When cold my car starts alright but does not do a fast
idle. After it has warmed up it usually idles fast just below 2000rpm but it
varries when warm and sometimes (very rarely) drops to 950rpm.
I have checked the wax stat connected to the throttle cam and that is
functioning I am just unsure about the auto choke and how the thermo-time
sensors work together.
Any help much appreciated as this ongoing problem is getting irratating when
you are stopped in a traffic jam with the car idling fast :)
Regards
Gary
David Nightingale
I've got a similar problem with my Scirocco '89 Scala.
When the engine is cold, it (usually!) starts ok, but if you're anything
but super careful with the accelerator, when you take your foot off the revs
will drop and not pick back up - the engine stalls.
I think our two problems may be related - except your cold idle
stabilisation valve is working correctly and mine isn't! It sounds to me (as
a non-mechanic) that when the engine warms and the cold start/idle etc
valves cut out, the tick over is simply set to high.
I'd suggest you adjust your idle. Warm the engine to it's normal
operating temp (i.e. before the fan kicks in). Disconnect the small breather
hose that comes off the air metering head that goes to the engine head. Turn
your headlights on and turn off any other electrical stuff (i.e. radio,
heating fan etc) then locate the accelerator cable under the bonnet.
It is attached to a linkage that is part of the throttle body. You
should see to the left hand side of the linkage a small screw with a locking
nut. Undo the locking nut, and using a small Allen key you can adjust the
idle.
Set it to about 950RPM and lock the screw off. Turn the engine and
lights off and re-attach the breather hose.
Re-start the engine and marvel at a nice tick-over!
If you've already thought of this and it doesn't work, get a Haynes
book. It covers this in some detail and may give you a solution.
Good luck,
David
"Gary Meakin" <gme...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:9rpcpt$hph$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com...
Giles
may not be too useful as it's for the injection engine (worth trying if
you've got one though).
Check the timing - mine was a pig to start until I re-set it for 98ron
gas, it was running retarded (for regular) before that. It's now 'on the
button'.
A good garage or bosche specialist will check the general condition of
the fuel system (for FI) for not much - will check for leaks and
damaged/knackered components.
If it's the carb then you've got yerself a huge can of worms - the
pierburg carb is notoriously complex, and I'm not sure if anyone here is
able to talk you through it....?
Giles
Gary Meakin wrote in message <9rpcpt$hph$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com>...
Patrick Bureau
in your case your problem was the same as what I had on my 85 Scirocco..
I changed teh timing belt (and retimmed it, it was off by 8') and I cleaned
the injection system plunger
See details of that work on my web site in teh tech note section (latest
addtion section) It solved my problem should yours. g'luk mate
Patrick " ATS " Bureau
"David Nightingale" <12...@dcn00.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:9rr4bb$9v3$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
Gary Meakin
Thanks for all your help David, Patrick and Giles.
My Scirocco has the over complicated Pierburg 2E2 carbuerettor. I had a
another problem to the one I mentioned where after driving the car typically
on amotorway when you have had your foot on the throttle for a while it
gradually lost power and in worst case so much power you couldn't get up a
steep hill! I took it to two garages and they couldn't fix it. I new it was
carbuerettor related and I have a reasonable understanding of my car so I
stripped the carbuerettor right down and rebuilt it. I did find some faulty
parts in this process and with cleaning the carb fully I have cured the
stalling problem :)
The fast cold idle and warm idle has been a problem for ages. Yesterday I
adjusted the warm-up cam as David mentioned, which I was aware of. The only
thing that worries me now is when I try and start it I will have to keep the
throttle on as it doesn't do the fast idle. I replaced the wax stat on the
warm-up cam about 6-months ago as this part is usually the cause of the cold
fast idle problem but it didn't sort it so I am still confused of what the
problem could be.
Regards
Gary
"Giles" <spam...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:1004657649.12562....@news.demon.co.uk...
Dave Hall
Check the choke cover gets warm and stays warm when running. My high idle
was cured by changing the pre-heater water grommet between the head and the
inlet manifold. Until then the waxstat was not getting hot enough water to
drop the idle rpm. It is also possible that there are muddy deposits behind
the choke cover which is stopping the choke backing off completely.
Look at www.hallvw.clara.net/jettachoke.htm
There are also some 'hidden' pages on the 2E2 at
www.hallvw.clara.net/jetta2E2.htm . They are 'borrowed from the Haynes
Carb manual; a useful reference at about £12.
--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------
"Gary Meakin" <gme...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
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Gary Meakin
Thanks for the help. I downloaded the scanned in images of the Pierburg 2E2,
thankyou very much for that. I tried to find this Haynes manual about the
2E2 from Amazon but can't seem to find it, except ones on the Webber carbs
etc.
On my Scirocco I checked the temperature of the water when the car was upto
temperature around the choke and wax stat loop and it was only just warm and
no-where near the coolant temperature around the main loop so there is
deffinitly not a proper flow of water around here obviously casuing the wax
stat not to melt and hence no fast idle. Well there is no fast idle as the
warm-up cam operated by the wax stat has been adjusted so it runs at the
proper rpm when warm.
I disconnected the water coolant loop around the choke system and I stuck a
hose pipe on the end and water flowed through no problem. I then
disconnected the main hoses from the engine block and put the hose on the
end of the inlet manifold where the water flows from the choke system. I
couldn't get any water through at all not even with the hose set to max I
couldn't hold the hose on the inlet manifold due to the pressure of the
water and it not flowing. So I think I have the same problem as what you of
documented on your Jetta with the O-ring breaking down and blocking the flow
of water. I will order the gaskets etc and try it at the weekend.
Once again thanks for all your help :)
Regards
Gary
"Dave Hall" <da...@hallvw.clara.net> wrote in message
news:10049995...@hebe.uk.clara.net...
Dave Hall
grommet have the same problem to some extent, but it only becomes critical
when the old one swells to the point where it blocks the flow completely.
Hope all goes well.
--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------
"Gary Meakin" <gme...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:9s98cb$je6$1...@uranium.btinternet.com...
gcampb...@googlemail.com
gcampb...@googlemail.com
Chris Bartram
> I have a similar problem , I bought my scirocco gt 1.8 it hadn't ran for 6 years so I put a battery to it and it started but revved up tried this 6 times and did the same thing but I don't know why the choke isn't stuck open , does anybody have any idea why , it's the pierburg carb
>
the three-point control unit (LH side of the carb, looking from the
front) has broken wires.
Assuming your email works, I'll email you some info if I can find it.