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04 Meriva 1.6 clutch at 65k?
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T i m
Aug 20, 2016, 4:31:54 PM8/20/16
to
Hi all,
A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the
clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and
or third and typically from cold).
That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the
clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as
if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather
than instantly.
Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and
pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva <g>) I'm pretty sure
I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between
a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit
like driving an auto. ;-)
On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on
the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch
action seems smooth / free moving).
So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
FWIW, the car was used for lots of local trips when it was owned by
Mum and Dad and is generally doing mostly that for us still (plus the
odd reasonable trip).
Cheers, T i m.
p.s. I replaced the clutch when swapping the gearbox on the kitcar a
while back and being based on a Mk2 Escort it was *very* easy. I've
never done a FWD clutch and not sure I really want to. ;-(
Transverse engines are FWD are both stupid ideas IMHO. ;-)
[1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the
clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and
or third and typically from cold).
That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the
clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as
if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather
than instantly.
Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and
pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva <g>) I'm pretty sure
I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between
a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit
like driving an auto. ;-)
On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on
the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch
action seems smooth / free moving).
So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
FWIW, the car was used for lots of local trips when it was owned by
Mum and Dad and is generally doing mostly that for us still (plus the
odd reasonable trip).
Cheers, T i m.
p.s. I replaced the clutch when swapping the gearbox on the kitcar a
while back and being based on a Mk2 Escort it was *very* easy. I've
never done a FWD clutch and not sure I really want to. ;-(
Transverse engines are FWD are both stupid ideas IMHO. ;-)
[1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
MrCheerful
Aug 20, 2016, 5:03:46 PM8/20/16
to
Cavaliers were the easiest ever to change, about 15 minutes if you had
the right tools and had done one before.
It is usual to remove both drive shafts, meriva clutch is listed as 4.3
hours if you have done one before and have the right equipment, never
changed one myself, good luck.
T i m
Aug 20, 2016, 5:49:11 PM8/20/16
to
On Sat, 20 Aug 2016 22:03:43 +0100, MrCheerful
<g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<snip>
>> [1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
>>
>
>Yes it sounds very like a knackered clutch.
Yeah. I just tested again picking up the kid and flooring it in first
also sees the rev counter outpace the speedo (and back when you let
off). Is 65k any sort of typical number for this sort of vehicle would
you say MrC?
>
>Cavaliers were the easiest ever to change, about 15 minutes if you had
>the right tools and had done one before.
Ah, so my memory hasn't gone, even if the clutch has. ;-)
>meriva clutch is listed as 4.3
>hours if you have done one before and have the right equipment,
Well, given that then it will ether be done in my mates garage or by
him in his garage.
> never
>changed one myself, good luck.
Thanks mate.
Is there any real advantage going with any know brand clutch kit or
for this are they all much of a muchness?
Cheers, T i m
<g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<snip>
>> [1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
>>
>
>Yes it sounds very like a knackered clutch.
also sees the rev counter outpace the speedo (and back when you let
off). Is 65k any sort of typical number for this sort of vehicle would
you say MrC?
>
>Cavaliers were the easiest ever to change, about 15 minutes if you had
>the right tools and had done one before.
>
>It is usual to remove both drive shafts,
Ok.
>It is usual to remove both drive shafts,
>meriva clutch is listed as 4.3
>hours if you have done one before and have the right equipment,
him in his garage.
> never
>changed one myself, good luck.
Is there any real advantage going with any know brand clutch kit or
for this are they all much of a muchness?
Cheers, T i m
MrCheerful
Aug 20, 2016, 7:39:39 PM8/20/16
to
Most available clutches will be much the same in quality, borg and beck
would be a good choice, but do check the price of genuine vauxhall, they
are often the best value/quality.
T i m
Aug 21, 2016, 3:33:46 AM8/21/16
to
end so it could just be just a combination of loads of
short-trafficky trips and 12 years?
Any idea of the chances it being a crank seal though (not that I have
seen any dropped oil as yet)?
>
>Most available clutches will be much the same in quality, borg and beck
>would be a good choice, but do check the price of genuine vauxhall, they
>are often the best value/quality.
I've seen that with disks and pads. I used to get them from a local
>Most available clutches will be much the same in quality, borg and beck
>would be a good choice, but do check the price of genuine vauxhall, they
>are often the best value/quality.
car spares place because they were (much) cheaper than Vauxhall.
Vauxhall must of noticed they weren't selling any (or found a cheaper
supplier themselves) and then the Vauxhall offering was significantly
cheaper (and still appeared to be of good quality).
I've also bought a reasonable size / spec battery from them for around
20 quid on a 'special' and mate used to get the 'Buy for x 5l oil, get
one free' deal pretty regularly (Vauxhall Trade Club or summat)?
Cheers, T i m
p.s. It's a sure sign my Mrs is getting older (than her 65 years) when
she was describing (what I believed to be the) slipping clutch when
she used the Meriva to visit some girlfriends yesterday. She said 'it
didn't seem to have any ooomph' ... so unless she was driving it
harder than I do or up some long hills *and* allowing the clutch to
slip continuously I don't know what she means (or if she means what
she says as it has no less 'oomph' than it ever had (and I know that's
not a lot)). I tried to describe what was happening mechanically and
what and why it was doing and even demonstrated it on our way home
later that day but I'm still not sure she 'get's it'. And this is
someone who built the kitcar with me (including changing the waterpump
even without supervision (I was watching RallyCrooss <g>) and seemed
to understand much more 'then'. I really hope it is just 'old age'.
;-(
Chris Bartram
Aug 21, 2016, 3:38:43 AM8/21/16
to
On 20/08/16 21:31, T i m wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the
> clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and
> or third and typically from cold).
>
> That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the
> clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as
> if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather
> than instantly.
>
> Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and
> pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva <g>) I'm pretty sure
> I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between
> a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit
> like driving an auto. ;-)
>
> On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on
> the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch
> action seems smooth / free moving).
>
> So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
> any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
> from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
>
Sounds knackered to me, and 65K isn't unreasonable for a car used in
> Hi all,
>
> A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the
> clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and
> or third and typically from cold).
>
> That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the
> clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as
> if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather
> than instantly.
>
> Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and
> pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva <g>) I'm pretty sure
> I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between
> a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit
> like driving an auto. ;-)
>
> On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on
> the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch
> action seems smooth / free moving).
>
> So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
> any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
> from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
>
trffic, I'd say.
> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
>
> FWIW, the car was used for lots of local trips when it was owned by
> Mum and Dad and is generally doing mostly that for us still (plus the
> odd reasonable trip).
>
> Cheers, T i m.
>
> p.s. I replaced the clutch when swapping the gearbox on the kitcar a
> while back and being based on a Mk2 Escort it was *very* easy. I've
> never done a FWD clutch and not sure I really want to. ;-(
>
> Transverse engines are FWD are both stupid ideas IMHO. ;-)
>
> [1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
room and lightish gearboxes). Obviously, room/access usually the worst
thing. And yes, just as Mr C says, the first FWD Cavalier (and Astra)
was a very clever design where you could pull the input shaft out and
drop the clutch with the box still in place.
>
Chris Whelan
Aug 21, 2016, 3:42:04 AM8/21/16
to
T i m wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the
> clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and
> or third and typically from cold).
>
> That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the
> clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as
> if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather
> than instantly.
>
> Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and
> pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva <g>) I'm pretty sure
> I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between
> a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit
> like driving an auto. ;-)
>
> On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on
> the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch
> action seems smooth / free moving).
>
> So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
> any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
> from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
>
> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
https://www.clickmechanic.com/price-estimates/vauxhall-opel/meriva-a/clutch-replacement
> Hi all,
>
> A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the
> clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and
> or third and typically from cold).
>
> That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the
> clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as
> if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather
> than instantly.
>
> Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and
> pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva <g>) I'm pretty sure
> I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between
> a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit
> like driving an auto. ;-)
>
> On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on
> the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch
> action seems smooth / free moving).
>
> So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
> any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
> from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
>
> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
http://tinyurl.com/hxrk9v3
Quote = 390UKP at an independent.
I am pretty sure that Vauxhalls of that age will have a pancake slave; it
would be madness not to replace that at the same time. Adds around 50UKP to
the price.
Be careful what you spend in total; there are several from dealers on
Autotrader with similar mileage to yours for around the 600UKP mark.
Chris
--
Remove prejudice to reply.
T i m
Aug 21, 2016, 4:36:32 AM8/21/16
to
On Sun, 21 Aug 2016 08:38:42 +0100, Chris Bartram
<ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
<snip>
>> So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
>> any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
>> from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
>>
>
>Sounds knackered to me,
Ok. ;-)
> and 65K isn't unreasonable for a car used in
>trffic, I'd say.
Quite. All the other cars I've had had typically been 'business' cars
and therefore spent a good part of their lives trudging up and down
the motorways (little clutch wear there etc). And this was also in
days where there wasn't so much traffic about in general. This is
*the* first car I've ever had a clutch go on (I have changed clutches
whilst swapping engines or gearboxes though).
the top is like working though a letterbox (to me anyway).
Opening up the bonnet on the Seat Ibiza was like a breath of fresh air
as (at first glance) there seemed quite a bit of room round it and you
could get at it all round (for a poxy FWD). ;-)
> And yes, just as Mr C says, the first FWD Cavalier (and Astra)
>was a very clever design where you could pull the input shaft out and
>drop the clutch with the box still in place.
Shame this old 1.6 8V isn't one of those eh. ;-(
Cheers, T i m
<ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote:
<snip>
>> So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there
>> any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever
>> from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?
>>
>
>Sounds knackered to me,
> and 65K isn't unreasonable for a car used in
>trffic, I'd say.
and therefore spent a good part of their lives trudging up and down
the motorways (little clutch wear there etc). And this was also in
days where there wasn't so much traffic about in general. This is
*the* first car I've ever had a clutch go on (I have changed clutches
whilst swapping engines or gearboxes though).
>
>> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
>> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
>> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
>>
<snip>
>> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
>> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
>> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
>>
>>
>> [1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
>
>I've changed FWD clutches, but on older VWs with small engines (so more
>room and lightish gearboxes). Obviously, room/access usually the worst
>thing.
Quite, and being the shape the Meriva is (mini MPV) any work done from
>> [1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
>
>I've changed FWD clutches, but on older VWs with small engines (so more
>room and lightish gearboxes). Obviously, room/access usually the worst
>thing.
the top is like working though a letterbox (to me anyway).
Opening up the bonnet on the Seat Ibiza was like a breath of fresh air
as (at first glance) there seemed quite a bit of room round it and you
could get at it all round (for a poxy FWD). ;-)
> And yes, just as Mr C says, the first FWD Cavalier (and Astra)
>was a very clever design where you could pull the input shaft out and
>drop the clutch with the box still in place.
Cheers, T i m
T i m
Aug 21, 2016, 5:13:59 AM8/21/16
to
On Sun, 21 Aug 2016 08:42:02 +0100, Chris Whelan
<cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote:
<snip>
>> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
>> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
>> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
>
>https://www.clickmechanic.com/price-estimates/vauxhall-opel/meriva-a/clutch-replacement
>
>http://tinyurl.com/hxrk9v3
>
>Quote = 390UKP at an independent.
Thanks for that Chris, at least now I can check what my mate would
charge (with or without my help <g>) and see if he is close.
actual clutch, rather than a traditional cylinder that operates an arm
from the outside? So it's like changing the water pump / tensioner
when doing a cambelt?
Dad died and we still run her about in it now and again (which she
likes). That's not to say she's silly or sentimental enough to expect
us to keep it if it became a white elephant, but at the same time I
don't want to be buying anyone's else's problems, even if the repair
doesn't make financial sense (again, within reason).
So, in this case, I'm sure you are right re it's worth and we are a
bit like the Avensis V Seat question where compared to say a RWD car
where I might be able to do stuff like a clutch myself (in the road
even, as I have with the kitcar) I'm pretty sure any FWD car needing a
clutch would just be too much for me (now) and with the facilities I
have(n't) got.
The only good news is that Mum is likely to offer us something towards
it (because she does stuff with other family members and it's her way
of treating us all the same) and the car is otherwise generally known
and clean. ;-)
Although whilst keeping all the above in consideration ... you have
made me think about what I would really want if I were to replace the
Meriva (ignoring the fact that the Mrs likes driving the Meriva as
it's not too big, has a reasonably 'upright' driving position and is
easy to get in and out of ...).
I think I'd like an estate again as the 'best car' I've ever has as an
all rounder was my 2L Sierra Estate. I think the Meriva has it on the
load height but for everything else (including the driving experience)
I think an estate would have it.
Not sure what though. Focus / Fusion? Daughter loves her Transit
Connect that I believe is very Focus like (based?) and seems happy to
drive that around rather than the Corsa ... and I'm traditionally a
'Ford Man'.
Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the
though of owning one, or what else?
Key factors for me: (No particular order)
Fuel economy.
Reliability.
Cheap / common parts.
Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles).
Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.
Too much to ask?
I would need a towbar (I normally fit them myself) but not to tow
anything big so only a consideration that one *can* be fitted (unlike
the Ka and some hybrids etc).
Cheers, T i m
p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for
obvious reasons ... ;-)
https://nestawayboats.com/cars-suitable-for-carrying-a-trio/
Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria
above please? Volkswagen Passat?
<cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote:
<snip>
>> If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so
>> I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at
>> least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]
>
>https://www.clickmechanic.com/price-estimates/vauxhall-opel/meriva-a/clutch-replacement
>
>http://tinyurl.com/hxrk9v3
>
>Quote = 390UKP at an independent.
charge (with or without my help <g>) and see if he is close.
>
>I am pretty sure that Vauxhalls of that age will have a pancake slave; it
>would be madness not to replace that at the same time. Adds around 50UKP to
>the price.
Understood. That's the slave cylinder that sits at the end of the
>I am pretty sure that Vauxhalls of that age will have a pancake slave; it
>would be madness not to replace that at the same time. Adds around 50UKP to
>the price.
actual clutch, rather than a traditional cylinder that operates an arm
from the outside? So it's like changing the water pump / tensioner
when doing a cambelt?
>
>Be careful what you spend in total; there are several from dealers on
>Autotrader with similar mileage to yours for around the 600UKP mark.
Understood. The problem here is the car was given to us by Mum when
>Be careful what you spend in total; there are several from dealers on
>Autotrader with similar mileage to yours for around the 600UKP mark.
Dad died and we still run her about in it now and again (which she
likes). That's not to say she's silly or sentimental enough to expect
us to keep it if it became a white elephant, but at the same time I
don't want to be buying anyone's else's problems, even if the repair
doesn't make financial sense (again, within reason).
So, in this case, I'm sure you are right re it's worth and we are a
bit like the Avensis V Seat question where compared to say a RWD car
where I might be able to do stuff like a clutch myself (in the road
even, as I have with the kitcar) I'm pretty sure any FWD car needing a
clutch would just be too much for me (now) and with the facilities I
have(n't) got.
The only good news is that Mum is likely to offer us something towards
it (because she does stuff with other family members and it's her way
of treating us all the same) and the car is otherwise generally known
and clean. ;-)
Although whilst keeping all the above in consideration ... you have
made me think about what I would really want if I were to replace the
Meriva (ignoring the fact that the Mrs likes driving the Meriva as
it's not too big, has a reasonably 'upright' driving position and is
easy to get in and out of ...).
I think I'd like an estate again as the 'best car' I've ever has as an
all rounder was my 2L Sierra Estate. I think the Meriva has it on the
load height but for everything else (including the driving experience)
I think an estate would have it.
Not sure what though. Focus / Fusion? Daughter loves her Transit
Connect that I believe is very Focus like (based?) and seems happy to
drive that around rather than the Corsa ... and I'm traditionally a
'Ford Man'.
Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the
though of owning one, or what else?
Key factors for me: (No particular order)
Fuel economy.
Reliability.
Cheap / common parts.
Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles).
Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.
Too much to ask?
I would need a towbar (I normally fit them myself) but not to tow
anything big so only a consideration that one *can* be fitted (unlike
the Ka and some hybrids etc).
Cheers, T i m
p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for
obvious reasons ... ;-)
https://nestawayboats.com/cars-suitable-for-carrying-a-trio/
Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria
above please? Volkswagen Passat?
Steve
Aug 22, 2016, 4:49:26 AM8/22/16
to
On 21/08/16 10:13, T i m wrote:
> Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the
> though of owning one, or what else?
>
> Key factors for me: (No particular order)
>
> Fuel economy.
> Reliability.
> Cheap / common parts.
> Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles).
> Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.
>
>
> Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the
> though of owning one, or what else?
>
> Key factors for me: (No particular order)
>
> Fuel economy.
> Reliability.
> Cheap / common parts.
> Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles).
> Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.
>
>
> Cheers, T i m
>
> p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for
> obvious reasons ... ;-)
>
> https://nestawayboats.com/cars-suitable-for-carrying-a-trio/
>
> Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria
> above please? Volkswagen Passat?
>
Mechanically, any of your choices are OK if they have been looked after.
>
> p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for
> obvious reasons ... ;-)
>
> https://nestawayboats.com/cars-suitable-for-carrying-a-trio/
>
> Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria
> above please? Volkswagen Passat?
>
All my recent hassles have been with the electronics (Astra Estate: ECU,
Skoda: Injectors[s]). Bells and whistles are hard not to avoid now.
Any of the budget cars (Dacia and similar) may not be a good long-term
prospect unless you use them for local pottering about. Friends have had
mixed experiences with these. The taxi drivers I have spoken to when I
was weighing up a car purchase like their Octavias.
There don't seem to be the estate cars around that there used to be
(dealers confirm this) and I've ended up with a SUV as they carry the
load and there is more choice (locally at any rate).
I suspect tax rates may change after the row over diesel emissions.
Insurance is so subjective (to me anyway) that I've given up trying to
fathom how they arrive at their quotes. Something big and not flash may
still be a good insurance deal.
T i m
Aug 22, 2016, 6:11:22 AM8/22/16
to
On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 09:49:24 +0100, Steve <st...@none.net> wrote:
>On 21/08/16 10:13, T i m wrote:
>
>> Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the
>> though of owning one, or what else?
>>
>> Key factors for me: (No particular order)
>>
>> Fuel economy.
>> Reliability.
>> Cheap / common parts.
>> Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles).
>> Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.
>>
>>
>> Cheers, T i m
>>
>> p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for
>> obvious reasons ... ;-)
>>
>> https://nestawayboats.com/cars-suitable-for-carrying-a-trio/
>>
>> Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria
>> above please? Volkswagen Passat?
>>
>Mechanically, any of your choices are OK if they have been looked after.
And I'm not sure even a FSH covers *everything* of importance eh (but
>On 21/08/16 10:13, T i m wrote:
>
>> Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the
>> though of owning one, or what else?
>>
>> Key factors for me: (No particular order)
>>
>> Fuel economy.
>> Reliability.
>> Cheap / common parts.
>> Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles).
>> Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.
>>
>>
>> Cheers, T i m
>>
>> p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for
>> obvious reasons ... ;-)
>>
>> https://nestawayboats.com/cars-suitable-for-carrying-a-trio/
>>
>> Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria
>> above please? Volkswagen Passat?
>>
>Mechanically, any of your choices are OK if they have been looked after.
helps of course).
>All my recent hassles have been with the electronics (Astra Estate: ECU,
>Skoda: Injectors[s]). Bells and whistles are hard not to avoid now.
and another's old Citroen (Palis?) and there were relays everywhere!
(Not 'electronics' as such but 'complexity' etc).
>
>Any of the budget cars (Dacia and similar) may not be a good long-term
>prospect unless you use them for local pottering about. Friends have had
>mixed experiences with these.
Ok.
>Any of the budget cars (Dacia and similar) may not be a good long-term
>prospect unless you use them for local pottering about. Friends have had
>mixed experiences with these.
>The taxi drivers I have spoken to when I
>was weighing up a car purchase like their Octavias.
>
>There don't seem to be the estate cars around that there used to be
>(dealers confirm this) and I've ended up with a SUV as they carry the
>load and there is more choice (locally at any rate).
<sigh> Understood. ;-(
>There don't seem to be the estate cars around that there used to be
>(dealers confirm this) and I've ended up with a SUV as they carry the
>load and there is more choice (locally at any rate).
>
>I suspect tax rates may change after the row over diesel emissions.
>Insurance is so subjective (to me anyway) that I've given up trying to
>fathom how they arrive at their quotes.
Likewise. ;-)
>I suspect tax rates may change after the row over diesel emissions.
>Insurance is so subjective (to me anyway) that I've given up trying to
>fathom how they arrive at their quotes.
> Something big and not flash may
>still be a good insurance deal.
'classic') because (I'm told) the sort of people likely to build or
drive such are more likely to look after their possession.
Talking to an AA guy confirm at least the attitude to being willing
and able to 'look after themselves' and having sufficient tools (and
skills / interest) to be able to do minor jobs themselves.
It really amazes me when you see someone standing by the side of the
road with the spare wheel, jack and brace but not actually changing
the thing themselves. Maybe the spare was flat or the brace not long
enough but that's why *we* all carry foot pumps and telescopic breaker
bars right? (along with a tow-rope and jump-leads of course). ;-)
I'm about to speak to my mate at his garage and see what price he
comes up with re a clutch for the Meriva and if it's around the £400
mentioned we will probably go with it (and if much higher will look
around as I know he's not the cheapest but he is good).
Yesterday I think I noticed the exhaust blowing but they should be
considered as consumables (although the SS system has been on the
kitcar nearly 30 years now), front disks and pads and probably the
same for the clicky CV joints on Vauxhalls 'these days'?
I'll still keep my eye out for a nice estate though. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Chris Whelan
Aug 22, 2016, 6:38:07 AM8/22/16
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T i m wrote:
[...]
> Yesterday I think I noticed the exhaust blowing but they should be
> considered as consumables
Those days are long gone.
The last time I had any part of an exhaust changed was in the eighties. My
last car I ran for 10 years, my current one is 13 years old.
[...]
> Yesterday I think I noticed the exhaust blowing but they should be
> considered as consumables
The last time I had any part of an exhaust changed was in the eighties. My
last car I ran for 10 years, my current one is 13 years old.
Chris Bartram
Aug 22, 2016, 7:13:38 AM8/22/16
to
do. My better half's Lupo has the original system on at 16 years old
(but only 50k miles), my recently sold Leon had the back box replaced at
120k miles/10 years.
MrCheerful
Aug 22, 2016, 8:00:56 AM8/22/16
to
The Lexus is still original exhaust at 20yo, but I did do a minor weld
repair where the back box brackets attach a few years ago.
My sister's Citroen (spit) had to have the brackets welded up at 4 years
old, a new battery at 5 and a major gearbox repair at 6 (less than 20k)
I have repaired the exhausts on several Mercedes at the 7 - 8 year mark,
mainly remaking the brackets.
My neighbour's Avensis is still on the entire original exhaust at 19 yo.
T i m
Aug 22, 2016, 8:05:54 AM8/22/16
to
clutches etc)?
My boss used to question how I would get though twice the number of
front tyres than he did over the same number of miles. Part of the
answer was his commute was pretty well a straight line with similar on
long / holiday trips and mine was mostly corners (and working in the
City of London) and holidays in places like Norfolk (lots of small
twisty lanes, at the time anyway). ;-)
Similar with lots of stop start runs rotting exhausts quicker than
someone who always got the system fully hot?
Or are we saying that in spite of that, the insides of exhaust systems
are better rust protected these days (good to hear if that is the
case).
Cheers, T i m
Chris Whelan
Aug 22, 2016, 8:13:13 AM8/22/16
to
T i m wrote:
[...]
[...]
> Or are we saying that in spite of that, the insides of exhaust systems
> are better rust protected these days (good to hear if that is the
> case).
That. You only need to look at exhaust systems of 30 or 40 years ago to
> are better rust protected these days (good to hear if that is the
> case).
realise that their design life was around three years.
Perhaps it might also be that the emissions from a car running close to the
stoichiometric air/fuel ratio produces less corrosive by-products also?
Dave Plowman (News)
Aug 22, 2016, 9:48:40 AM8/22/16
to
In article <07qlrb5d5cl9e5jib...@4ax.com>,
was original (as were all the rad etc hoses)
The aftermarket SS one on my SD1 is also about 15 years old - the original
mild steel one seemed to need a new bit every year or so.
--
*Rehab is for quitters
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> Similar with lots of stop start runs rotting exhausts quicker than
> someone who always got the system fully hot?
> Or are we saying that in spite of that, the insides of exhaust systems
> are better rust protected these days (good to hear if that is the
> case).
Perhaps stainless steel? The exhaust on my recently disposed of '97 E39
> Similar with lots of stop start runs rotting exhausts quicker than
> someone who always got the system fully hot?
> Or are we saying that in spite of that, the insides of exhaust systems
> are better rust protected these days (good to hear if that is the
> case).
was original (as were all the rad etc hoses)
The aftermarket SS one on my SD1 is also about 15 years old - the original
mild steel one seemed to need a new bit every year or so.
--
*Rehab is for quitters
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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