Problem with the central locking - locking the drivers door (by key, or
pressing the button down from inside) does not lock the rest of the doors,
just the drivers door. Unlocking from the drivers door does unlock ALL
doors. Key fob locks/unlocks ALL doors. Passenger door locks/unlocks ALL
doors.
From this I've figured out that there's probably a problem with the signal
from the drivers door lock to the central locking system which informs it
that the door has been locked. The unlock signal from drivers lock and from
central locking system is unaffected.
Dismantled the drivers door and checked the wiring. Lock IS providing
correct switching for locking/unlocking - so its either the wiring or the
cental locking processor itself. I don't have the wiring diagram for the
door connector (the one at the hinge) so I can't work out which wires are
which to find out whether the problem is with the wiring in the door, or
from the hinge to the central unit.
The Haynes manual states I need to remove the drivers seat to get to the
central locking processor (not something I'm going to do too soon!) - so
being able to confirm if the wiring in the door is okay would be useful.
Does anyone have details of the pin-out of the door connector? Any other
suggestions (including an idea of the cost that Peugeot will charge to fix
this kind of thing). We have 1 remote fob and 1 normal key (with
transponder). Depending on the cost, it may be cheaper to just get a 2nd
remote fob (less than £100 I believe) - though of course, its still a fault.
Incidentally, I doubt central locking is on the MOT checklist?
Any suggestions about where the fault is? I'm wondering if its in the door
wiring connector as the drivers door gets openened the most, and if a wire
has broken etc with all the movements. I'd imagine that this wiring would
be a pain to get to and replace.
Thanks
David
If you've had access to the switch, you'd surely be able to see the wiring
colours of the loom it goes into - and therefore at the multiplug at the
main loom end?
However, I'd feel inclined to check it right through to the controller.
Removing a seat is usually pretty easy - if this even is needed.
--
*Despite the cost of living, have you noticed how it remains so popular?
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Yes, I've managed to see the colour of the offending wire - but I don't have
visual access to the rear of the multiplug in the door. I can just about
see the terminals from the front part of the connector (door doesn't open
wide enough to get a great view) but obviously you can't see the colours on
that part. Knowing the pin-out I could just check continuity and confirm it
isn't in the door (which is probably the easiest part to re-wire, if it was
necessary).
As for removing the seat, its just not something I've done before, and would
need to remove quite a bit of trim so I can lift the carpet to get access to
the controller...
Thanks for the advice though. :)
David
The trim ahead of the door jam is usually fairly easy to remove, and the
multiplug should be behind that.
> As for removing the seat, its just not something I've done before, and
> would need to remove quite a bit of trim so I can lift the carpet to
> get access to the controller...
Seats usually have very visible fixings. Slide it fully forward for the
rear ones, and back for the front ones. They might be under some clip on
cover.
> Thanks for the advice though. :)
They're only general comments - I've not worked on your actual model.
But a fairly straightforward fault to find - you've had the sense not to
simply guess it's the switch and replace it.
--
*Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment *
John
"David Hearn" <da...@NOSPAMswampieSPAMMER.org.uk> wrote in message
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Thanks
David
"David Hearn" <da...@NOSPAMswampieSPAMMER.org.uk> wrote in message
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