Moss Security MS705

[Mike Casswell]

I have just bought a car which has one of these mounted under the
bonnet.

What exactly is it?

Does anyone have any information or, best of all, a wiring
diagram?

TIA

--

|
| Mike Casswell Leek, Staffordshire, England
|
| mi...@casswell.u-net.com and often @ The Wellington Inn

[Howard Miller]

Sorry to sound flippant but throw the thing away. Moss alarms are not
very good to start with an most have been fitted by monkeys to make
matters worse.

If you need an alarm get a Clifford.

Howard

[Steve Taylor]

Mike Casswell wrote in message <35a357b...@news.u-net.com>...

>I have just bought a car which has one of these mounted under the
>bonnet.
>
>What exactly is it?

It's an alarm!

It has current sensing, detects intrusion using existing coutesy light
switches, vibration shock detector, 120dB piezo siren

>Does anyone have any information or, best of all, a wiring
>diagram?

I have one still working without problem since 1988

I still have the instructions, all they say is;

Red wire - Is positive and should be connected to a suitable point on the
fused side of the fuse box to a 12 volt supply which is not switched by the
ignition

Black wire - Is negative and should be connected to an earthing point

Yellow wire - Is connected to the vehicle ignition switch and is used to
prevent the alarm being accidentally switched on whilst driving. In some
vehicles an accessory wire is not provided on the ignition switch. In these
circumstances the yellow wire should be connected to any point that becomes
live when the ignition switch is turned on.

Blue wire - This wire is connected to optional pin switches which may be
installed on the bonnet, boot or doors.

Green wire - This wire is connected to the electric fan switching circuit
(where fitted). Under some circumstances the electric fan may still be
running even when the engine is switched off, To prevent the electric fan
from triggering the sensor in the alarm this additional wire must be
connected to the wiring on the cooling fan motor. Before connecting the
green wire, it is essential to determine if the circuit is switched on the
supply side of the motor (+ve switching) or on the grounded side of the
motor (-ve switching). (email pos...@globalnet.co.uk for the diagram). There
is a two position switch on the back of the alarm to select the correct
type.

Orange wire - Connect to the dipped beam wire of the headlamps which will
allow them to flash during an alarm

There is a jack socket for an optional Ultrasonic detector

There is a trimming capacitor in the remote that can be adjusted to improve
the operating range, additional remote controls are available from Harry
Moss but you need the code number.

Stephen Taylor - London - UK
Email - pos...@globalnet.co.uk

[John Dennington]

In case no one yet has put you out of your misery, the unit you describe
is a cheap DIY alarm system. You should have at least one remote to
activate/deactivate it, assuming of course its wired in properly and
still working.
Most of these units were fitted using scotch locks whose ability to
conduct deteriorates with age.
Best advice is to have it removed whilst having a more sophisticated
system installed properly, especially now that the prices of most fitted
alarms are relatively cheap.

Mike Casswell wrote:

> I have just bought a car which has one of these mounted under the
> bonnet.
>
> What exactly is it?
>

> Does anyone have any information or, best of all, a wiring
> diagram?
>

[Steve Taylor]

If the car's the same vintage as it's Moss MS705 alarm then it's probably
late 80's and not worth the outlay.

Mine has warned off three scumbags and never given a false alarm ... but
then I was the DIY'er that installed it 10 years ago!

John Dennington wrote in message <35AACCE0...@globalnet.co.uk>...