On Tue, 08 Jul 2014 19:18:01 +0000, bikerchick6167
<
065b0505594b06f549...@example.com> wrote:
>Hi my Meriva 1.6 has been having problems it started with the battery light
>coming on intermittently then staying on, the speedo needle would drop to zero
>then jump back up to speed then back to zero.
>
>car would start but as soon as you stopped you would have to wait about 15
>minutes before it would start again NOW I'm afraid to say it wants to start
>but as soon as it does 2-3 seconds later it dies.
>got it checked with a diagnostics machine and the codes given to me are U2107,
>P1614, P1615, P1616 HELP HELP HELP
(If it's not too late ...) I'd say that sounds very familiar to how
our 50K 2004 Meriva 1.6 (8V) went towards the end of 2013.
Very long story (3 months of experiments and eventual 'hardening' of
the fault (eg, it wouldn't start at all)), I was able to isolate the
cause to the ECU. In my case it was probably one (or more) of the 128
possible connections between the two plugs on the ECU and the ally
tracks on the ceramic board.
I was able to prove beyond all reasonable doubt it *was* the ECU
because if I heated the ECU with a hot-air-gun (with some cardboard
protecting the plugs etc), the car would start instantly, where before
it would not start at all from cold (after trying 10 times each
morning over a three day period). The fault first appeared by not
restarting from warm (but would start from cold or hot and never
stopped once started) and like you, had the ignition light up shortly
after starting (or restarting) and random temp, rev and speedo
instruments (the fuel gauge was always fine). It also sometimes fired
up for a couple of seconds, but then died and wouldn't restart. Some
Easy-Start suggesting the fuel 'system' was being cut off
(immobilised?) as it would try to start at that point on the Easy
Start.
I took out the ECU (easy), BCM (easy but fiddly), instruments (easy
but fiddly) and key / immobiliser thingy (and key) and over to a place
who were able to 're-manufacture' the ECU, and because they also had
all the other bits it needed to talk to, I was able to just put the
repaired ECU back on and have it work without any re-programming etc.
The repair came with a 2 year guarantee and cost about �240. There are
probably cheaper / better options out there but this was the only one
I could easily / physically drive to as I didn't want to trust that
many expensive components to any courier.
http://www.actronics.eu/en/
YMMV of course.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. It is also possible that I could affect the proceedings by
applying pressure onto the loom as it joined either of the ECU plugs.
This may have been because me moving the wiring, moved the pins within
the plug, that moved the pin within the socket and hence onto the ECU
pcb / connectors.
p.p.s. If you would like any specific advice re any of this and would
prefer to do so by PM, my email shown here is valid.