Mini Flywheel Removal
Simon Slingsby
flywheel of the crank of his mini. He had the flywheel off last year but
needs to get it off again to cure an oil leak. He has had a puller on it
with 300ft/lb, he has hit it and heated it but no go. Any help much
appreciated.
--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG
rich
and they need to be aligned properly to remove them if you dont the come
apart and jam everything...or you could try alt.auto.minis
Simon Slingsby wrote in message
<0c2e85762f0b8820151...@mygate.mailgate.org>...
Fried Freddy
Once you have removed the outer alloy cover (and the pressed steel bearing
runner if fitted with a "Verto" clutch) you need to undo the 1 5/16" bolt
holding the flywheel in place - then prise out the off-set washer from
behind the bolt and install the 3 bolt puller (taking care to put the
forcing screw collar in centrally - or you'll damage the crank threads)
There are 2 sets (of three) bolts that screw into the flywheel through holes
in the clutch cover - metric and imperial.
"Verto" type clutch's use the metric bolts (short clutch arm, cable
operated/slave cylinder pointing 45 deg's down)
"Laycock" type clutch's use imperial bolts (long clutch arm - always
hydraulic - slave cylinder horizontal)
Screw the 3 bolts into the flywheel until the last thread is LEVEL with the
clutch cover - any more and they will drill into the clutch plate and ruin
(warp) it
Now remove the starter motor (if not already done) and place the middle of
the handle of a small (6 - 8mm) spanner into the flywheel teeth at the
bottom of the starter motor hole to lock the flywheel.
Bung a 1 1/8" socket onto a 1/2" drive breaker bar and tighten the forcing
screw of the puller (keeping hands WELL AWAY from the work area - when the
flywheel/clutch assy finally lets go the force can/will smash all bones in
your hands)
As the flywheel is held on a taper (as well as the central bolt) you may
need to add length (scaffold pole) to the breaker bar
Heating with hot spanner will not help and usually causes extra damage but a
sharp blow to the head of the 1 1/8" forcing screw through the inner wing
(just bend it up outta the way for access) square on can help.
Getting the seal out is easy - getting the new one in is another thing -
hire/borrow the "Birdcage" from a rover dealer and remember to use a seal
protector over the drive splines of the output gear or you'll bugger the
seal up (tape the teeth up if no seal protector is available)
Re-installation is reverse procedure except no 3 bolt puller required -
again lock crank with spanner - make sure the off-set washer is the correct
way round.
If the horseshoe falls off the flywheel reinstall it at TDC pointing down.
"Simon Slingsby" <s.sli...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:0c2e85762f0b8820151...@mygate.mailgate.org...
Fred
news:0c2e85762f0b8820151...@mygate.mailgate.org...
> flywheel of the crank of his mini. He had the flywheel off last year but
> needs to get it off again to cure an oil leak. He has had a puller on it
> with 300ft/lb, he has hit it and heated it but no go. Any help much
> appreciated.
If the engine is out of the car try using a air hammer (air chisel) on the
centre puller bolt, the rapid vibration will some times move what a sledge
hammer won't ( it's also a lot kinder to the thrust bearings).
DaveK
".server.ntlworld.com...
> Assuming you have a "A" series engine :-
>
> > with 300ft/lb, he has hit it and heated it but no go. Any help much
> > appreciated.
> >
bar through the starter motor hole so it's against the flywheel and give it
a bloody good whack. Or was that the 1100?
DaveK.
Duncan Wood
"DaveK" <da...@wkinnear.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a2v302$reu$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
I remember that if you forget to remove the big washer that appears to be
part of the flywheel the first time you do it you need a new washer which
isn't that easily available
Fried Freddy
Mini's had the clutch thrust bearing in the cover that was removed ("Verto"
type clutch's used a rubber "O" ring to secure it while "Laycock" clutch's
used a dodgy self centring set-up using a anti-shake star washer)
"Fred" <Dont...@hidden.co.us> wrote in message
news:a2v2hv$47m$1...@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk...
AWM
how hard you thump and lever them you end up taking a chisel to the boss
and fitting another flywheel.
For some reason the 60s 1100 version of the A series was most prone to this.
"DaveK" <da...@wkinnear.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a2v302$reu$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
Fried Freddy
1300 there was a lot more room at the front of the engine bay
They were the days eh ?
"DaveK" <da...@wkinnear.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a2v302$reu$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
AWM
ran big ends at 20,000 miles, Mini that stopped if you ran through a
puddlle, doing Imp head gaskets and king pins, Morris Minor brake peadals
that seized up. and the joys of changing the front leaf spring on Viva
As -- ah nostalgia
"Fried Freddy" <Fried...@NTLWorld.Com> wrote in message
news:74P48.22839$4i5.3...@news11-gui.server.ntli.net...
Fried Freddy
At least we've got rid of the rubber doughnuts on inner driveshaft joints
:-)
"AWM" <a...@davrian.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a30k38$snj$1...@knossos.btinternet.com...
Mike
<s.sli...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>my brother in law (realy not me)is having big problems getting a
>flywheel of the crank of his mini. He had the flywheel off last year but
>needs to get it off again to cure an oil leak. He has had a puller on it
>with 300ft/lb, he has hit it and heated it but no go. Any help much
>appreciated.
1) Ensure the engine is at TDC. The 'C' clip that retins the primary
gear can otherwise drop out into a groove in the flywheel. If it
get's bent so that it won't drop back into the slots on the crank, you
might as well take a gas axe to the flywheel to get it off. This
assumes your mate put the C clip back on with the engine at TDC last
time of course.
2) If you have as much force on the puller as it's going to take and
it's still not moving, even with heat, then put a nice strong chunk of
wood against the flywheel through the starter motor hole and beat the
living crap out of the other end with a lump hammer. After each
beating turn the crank to beat a different part, ensuring you never
turn the crank enough that the C clip is likely to fall out.(item 1)
I *hate* doing this, and you possibly risk bending the crank tail if
you go mad which will require a new crank, but sometimes you need to
do this. It probably does no good at all to the main bearing on that
end of the crank either.
3) If it still won't come off...leave the puller on it wound up as
high as you dare overnight. Often the flywheel will come off of it;s
own accord after a while (makes one hell of a bang, and lots of force
involved, make sure the area is clear of damagable bits/people).
The main cause of flywheels getting jammed on is people not tighening
them up enough. If it's not tight enough, the small movement between
the flywheel and the crank will cause fretting, which effectively
welds one to the other.
Mike
Fried Freddy
skimmed.
It was easier to drop the engine/t-axle - had it down to about 30 mins on
mine - a few bricks to support it and push the bugger outta the way :-)
<dead...@burnt.org.uk> wrote in message
news:ao385u4vdad3j70tm...@4ax.com...
> "AWM" <a...@davrian.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >The bad old days ;-) ! 1100 rusting to holes in 2 years, 1200 Cortinas
than
> >ran big ends at 20,000 miles, Mini that stopped if you ran through a
> >puddlle, doing Imp head gaskets and king pins, Morris Minor brake
peadals
> >that seized up. and the joys of changing the front leaf spring on Viva
> >As -- ah nostalgia
>
> Imp head gaskets... to drop the engine or skin my
> knuckles...
> --
> reply to charred_at_burnt.org.uk UKRMT5BB
> "Life on the straight and narrow path drives you off your nut"
> Sometime changed track : "Blank Generation" Richard Hell
> For the very bored amongst you: www.burnt.org.uk
> Lbh arrq gb trg bhg zber, V arrq gb fgnl va yrff.
Fried Freddy
nor can it be damaged by removing the flywheel - it's upon reinstalling it
that problems can occur.
1. The "C" clip can NOT get caught in the flywheel upon removal as there no
where for it to get caught on.
2. Beating the flywheel with/without wood to "Protect" it will only result
in warping the flywheel - it's held on a taper and the only way to remove it
is STRAIGHT off the taper.
2. Again the "C" clip can not get caught as the taper is smooth so no where
for it to get hung up on.
3. Agree on this one - sometimes works if you have the time.
Having spent over 12 months (5 days a week) doing 3 removals a day (Metro
recall due to reverse idle gear bearings popping out making it
hard/impossible to get 3rd/4th) I've done a "Few" and have NEVER resorted to
gas axing the flywheel off (Rover wouldn't have paid for it under the recall
either)
As always - lock the flywheel and keep applying pressure - if hammer blows
are required they go straight on through the puller not at 90 degrees via
the flywheel.
"Mike" <mik...@clara.remove.net> wrote in message
news:g0885u413bqsh324k...@4ax.com...
Mike
<Fried...@NTLWorld.Com> wrote:
>1. The "C" (horseshoe) clip can NOT drop out with the flywheel in place -
>nor can it be damaged by removing the flywheel - it's upon reinstalling it
>that problems can occur.
>
>1. The "C" clip can NOT get caught in the flywheel upon removal as there no
>where for it to get caught on.
>
Sorry, we must have worked on different engines. I have rebuilt
literaly DOZEN's of A and A+ engines and I can assure you that the C
clip CAN get jammed.
>2. Beating the flywheel with/without wood to "Protect" it will only result
>in warping the flywheel - it's held on a taper and the only way to remove it
>is STRAIGHT off the taper.
Agreed, it's not a good idea as I have already warned. However, needs
must, and if the flywheel/crank has fretted to such a degree that
removal is virtualy impossible, then the risk of bending or breaking
something becomes irrelevant, especialy with second hand parts being
easily and cheaply available. I say it again, this is a last resort
and I do not recomend it unless there is no alternative.
I have seen a flywheel so tightly welded on through fretting, that
even a hydraulic puller wouldn't shift it (even after drilling and
tapping flywheel threads to next size up). A combined attack of
extreme heat, large hammers and a lot of swearing eventualy removed
it. The tapers on both crank and flywheel were in such a bad way that
re-using them was out of the question, however, the fylwheel had to
come off to enable the rest of the engine to be dismantled.
>
>2. Again the "C" clip can not get caught as the taper is smooth so no where
>for it to get hung up on.
>
>3. Agree on this one - sometimes works if you have the time.
>
>Having spent over 12 months (5 days a week) doing 3 removals a day (Metro
>recall due to reverse idle gear bearings popping out making it
>hard/impossible to get 3rd/4th) I've done a "Few" and have NEVER resorted to
>gas axing the flywheel off (Rover wouldn't have paid for it under the recall
>either)
I didn't suggest you should gas axe it off. If you read my post you
will see I say "may as well", suggesting that if the C clip drops out
and bends, (which I maintain it can do) then flywheel removal is, to
say the least problematic.
In fact I have the BL workshop manual for the Metro Turbo right here,
and it expicitly states that the engine should be turned to TDC before
flywheel removal. I almost certain the Haynes manual suggests it too,
but don't have one to hand to check.
>
>As always - lock the flywheel and keep applying pressure - if hammer blows
>are required they go straight on through the puller not at 90 degrees via
>the flywheel.
Not possible if you are trying to change the clutch with the engine in
the car, at least not possible to hit the end with any effectiveness.
I may no know many modern engines in intimate detail, but I could
virtualy rebuild an A Series in my sleep.
Mike
Fried Freddy
Haynes manuals ALL say keep the engine at TDC for 2 reasons
1. So the horseshoe can't fall out and be lost AFTER the flywheel is removed
2. As an index mark (so you know exactly where the crank is positioned to
make re-installing the flywheel and off-set washer easier)
It also helps if you have a Laycock clutch as you'll be able to see the "A"
stamped on the clutch cover and align it with TDC.
"Mike" <mik...@clara.remove.net> wrote in message
news:5a8b5ugdhtbocfr0b...@4ax.com...
AWM
could get in at them with tyre lever, on the Elan the outer one in
particuilarly was a pig to do.
"Fried Freddy" <Fried...@NTLWorld.Com> wrote in message
news:3WS48.23298$4i5.3...@news11-gui.server.ntli.net...
Sponix
<s.sli...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>my brother in law (realy not me)is having big problems getting a
>flywheel of the crank of his mini. He had the flywheel off last year but
>needs to get it off again to cure an oil leak. He has had a puller on it
>with 300ft/lb, he has hit it and heated it but no go. Any help much
>appreciated.
Remove the puller and check that the washer has been removed.
Unfortunately the flywheel seems to almost corrode itself onto the
shaft. Removal is just a matter of tightening the puller, judicious
whacking with a hammer and the application of heat. It *WILL* go
eventually, probably with a loud bang and keep yourself well out of
the way.
When re-fitting the flywheel smear a little copperease on the shaft.
AWM
together but I suspect copper ease might make it worse rather than better.
<Sponix> wrote in message news:3c5671a8...@news.demon.co.uk...
Chris Howarth
<0c2e85762f0b8820151...@mygate.mailgate.org>
, s.sli...@btinternet.com says...
> my brother in law (realy not me)is having big problems getting a
> flywheel of the crank of his mini. He had the flywheel off last year but
> needs to get it off again to cure an oil leak. He has had a puller on it
> with 300ft/lb, he has hit it and heated it but no go. Any help much
> appreciated.
>
>
>
I found that running the engine to operating temp (assuming
it's still in the car), stripping the thing down and
tensioning the puller with the flywheel still warm, letting
the whole lot cool down and then a sharp tap with a copper
mallet though the starter hole seems to shift them.
I think it maybe to do with having the puller under load
when the flywheel cools down.
Chris