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Weird sidelights problem Mk4 Golf
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Andrew
Jan 15, 2013, 4:23:28 PM1/15/13
to
A friend told me my near side rear sidelight was out today, so when I got
home I took the bulb out. It looked OK but I swapped another one in anyway,
and it still didn't work.
I then checked the fuses (the ones described as parking lights) which had
not blown.
At this point I thought I'd better check the front lights and discovered
that the front sidelight on the same side was not working either. I took
the plastic cover off at the back of the headlamp assembly but realised
there wasn't enough space to get at the bulb without removing the battery
which is not much more than an inch away from the back of the headlamp. As
it was pitch dark and freezing out, I called it a day at that point, but
from what I can see of the bulb through the headlamp unit, the filament is
fine.
If it's not bulbs or fuses, any idea what could be wrong?
P.S. The rear fog lamp on that side doesn't work either, but the indicator
does work.
home I took the bulb out. It looked OK but I swapped another one in anyway,
and it still didn't work.
I then checked the fuses (the ones described as parking lights) which had
not blown.
At this point I thought I'd better check the front lights and discovered
that the front sidelight on the same side was not working either. I took
the plastic cover off at the back of the headlamp assembly but realised
there wasn't enough space to get at the bulb without removing the battery
which is not much more than an inch away from the back of the headlamp. As
it was pitch dark and freezing out, I called it a day at that point, but
from what I can see of the bulb through the headlamp unit, the filament is
fine.
If it's not bulbs or fuses, any idea what could be wrong?
P.S. The rear fog lamp on that side doesn't work either, but the indicator
does work.
Chris Whelan
Jan 15, 2013, 4:34:13 PM1/15/13
to
other can be switched on with the indicator stalk when the ignition is
off? If so, perhaps the fuse marked 'parking lights' is not the one you
need to check?
If it is so equipped, do the lights work on each side when powered by
that method?
Chris
--
Remove prejudice to reply.
Chris Bartram
Jan 15, 2013, 4:49:32 PM1/15/13
to
Also, to the OP, there usually isn't a nearside fog lamp fitted.
I'd also say that you can't always see a blown filament. BTW, official
procedure to change front bulbs is to drop the bumper (!), but it's
possible but fiddly without.
Andrew
Jan 15, 2013, 5:29:34 PM1/15/13
to
"Chris Whelan" wrote in message news:pXjJs.5779$Zf6....@fx16.fr7...
> Does it have the arrangement where the sidelights on one side or the
> other can be switched on with the indicator stalk when the ignition is
> off? If so, perhaps the fuse marked 'parking lights' is not the one you
> need to check?
>
> If it is so equipped, do the lights work on each side when powered by
> that method?
Well, you learn something new every day :) It appears it does indeed have
this feature. I just tested it and it it not working on the near side of
the car, nor does it sound the warning buzzer when you open the car door
(which I would have thought was separate from the bulbs actually working).
The off-side works as expected. Could a fault with this feature be
interfering with the normal operation of the sidelights?
> Does it have the arrangement where the sidelights on one side or the
> other can be switched on with the indicator stalk when the ignition is
> off? If so, perhaps the fuse marked 'parking lights' is not the one you
> need to check?
>
> If it is so equipped, do the lights work on each side when powered by
> that method?
this feature. I just tested it and it it not working on the near side of
the car, nor does it sound the warning buzzer when you open the car door
(which I would have thought was separate from the bulbs actually working).
The off-side works as expected. Could a fault with this feature be
interfering with the normal operation of the sidelights?
Stephen H
Jan 15, 2013, 5:35:02 PM1/15/13
to
>
> Also, to the OP, there usually isn't a nearside REAR fog lamp fitted.
I can confirm this as a Golf Mk4 owner. I actually ran a wire from the
offside rear fog light to the rear left hand lights cluster so that I
could have two rear fog lights rather than just one.
Stephen
Andrew
Jan 15, 2013, 5:35:23 PM1/15/13
to
"Chris Bartram" wrote in message news:kd4itd$b4v$1...@dont-email.me...
> Every VW (and other VAG car) I've had does that, so it's a valid test.
As per my reply to t'other Chris, it does have this feature but it is not
illuminating the near side of the car (nor sounding the buzzer when you open
the door).
> Also, to the OP, there usually isn't a nearside fog lamp fitted.
Ah, I probably didn't notice that! I'll should probably get someone to
check the reversing lamp on that side (assuming there is one).
> I'd also say that you can't always see a blown filament.
Yes, I agree, visual inspection is unreliable. But I did swap the rear bulb
that I could get to, so I'm fairly sure there's something funny with that
side of the electrics that is not bulb or fuse related.
> BTW, official procedure to change front bulbs is to drop the bumper (!),
> but it's possible but fiddly without.
Blimey, I think it's probably easier to remove the battery so I can get a
hand in there! Incidentally, if I do come to remove the battery, am I
likely to have any issues with the immobiliser / remote keys? Or the radio
(is it coded?)
Cheers,
Andrew
> Every VW (and other VAG car) I've had does that, so it's a valid test.
illuminating the near side of the car (nor sounding the buzzer when you open
the door).
> Also, to the OP, there usually isn't a nearside fog lamp fitted.
check the reversing lamp on that side (assuming there is one).
> I'd also say that you can't always see a blown filament.
that I could get to, so I'm fairly sure there's something funny with that
side of the electrics that is not bulb or fuse related.
> BTW, official procedure to change front bulbs is to drop the bumper (!),
> but it's possible but fiddly without.
hand in there! Incidentally, if I do come to remove the battery, am I
likely to have any issues with the immobiliser / remote keys? Or the radio
(is it coded?)
Cheers,
Andrew
Andrew
Jan 15, 2013, 5:39:19 PM1/15/13
to
"Stephen H" wrote in message news:5QkJs.2760$Ah5....@fx15.fr7...
Cool, thanks for the info. So it probably is just the sidelights that are
affected. Indicator definitely works. I'll get someone to have a look at
the reversing light tomorrow.
affected. Indicator definitely works. I'll get someone to have a look at
the reversing light tomorrow.
Chris Bartram
Jan 16, 2013, 4:50:09 PM1/16/13
to
generally fails if you swap and engine ECU or instrument pack.
Generally the OE radio will only ask for a code if moved to another car
(it reads something (VIN?) from the instrument panel). Our Lupo's radio
asks for the code if the battery is disconnected, then fixes itself
after a couple of ignition cycles IIRC. My Audi A3 just worked without
difficulty.
You will need to reset the electric windows: wind them all the way down,
then all the way up, holding the switch up for a few seconds. Otherwise
the one-touch and comfort opening won't work.
One other thing: if you have an engine with a stepper-motor throttle
body, ideally you should reset the throttle adaption after disconnecting
the battery, but often it's OK without: if you find it hunting or idling
badly it may be needed.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_%28TBA%29
Chris Bartram
Jan 16, 2013, 4:57:41 PM1/16/13
to
random. To me it just looks like the feed to the lamp circuit is missing.
Andrew
Jan 17, 2013, 6:56:49 PM1/17/13
to
"Chris Bartram" wrote in message news:kd77om$v8b$1...@dont-email.me...
> I'd recheck the fuses, bearing in mind the labelling can be a bit random.
> To me it just looks like the feed to the lamp circuit is missing.
The fuse card is actually a mirror image of where the fuses are in fact
located. It took me a bit of head scratching before I realised this! I can
only assume the card is for a LHD car (mine is RHD but was an import
originally) I'm pretty sure I checked the correct fuses though, as they are
5A (the rating specified for parking lights) and located in a far corner (so
harder to mix up their position).
> I'd recheck the fuses, bearing in mind the labelling can be a bit random.
> To me it just looks like the feed to the lamp circuit is missing.
located. It took me a bit of head scratching before I realised this! I can
only assume the card is for a LHD car (mine is RHD but was an import
originally) I'm pretty sure I checked the correct fuses though, as they are
5A (the rating specified for parking lights) and located in a far corner (so
harder to mix up their position).
Andrew
Jan 17, 2013, 7:07:07 PM1/17/13
to
"Chris Bartram" wrote in message news:kd77ah$t88$1...@dont-email.me...
> No, the immobiliser and remote fob should be fine- the immobiliser only
> generally fails if you swap and engine ECU or instrument pack.
>
> Generally the OE radio will only ask for a code if moved to another car
> (it reads something (VIN?) from the instrument panel). Our Lupo's radio
> asks for the code if the battery is disconnected, then fixes itself after
> a couple of ignition cycles IIRC. My Audi A3 just worked without
> difficulty.
>
> You will need to reset the electric windows: wind them all the way down,
> then all the way up, holding the switch up for a few seconds. Otherwise
> the one-touch and comfort opening won't work.
>
> One other thing: if you have an engine with a stepper-motor throttle body,
> ideally you should reset the throttle adaption after disconnecting the
> battery, but often it's OK without: if you find it hunting or idling badly
> it may be needed.
>
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_%28TBA%29
Thanks for the info, that's all useful to know. I'll have another go at the
lights at the weekend.
I may have a problem resetting the electric windows as the driver's side
window glass has come adrift from the regulator (a common mk4 Golf problem I
believe). But that's a job for another day :) This car does have a few
niggles but I'll put up with a lot for its 310Nm of torque from that
fantastic 1.9 PD.
> No, the immobiliser and remote fob should be fine- the immobiliser only
> generally fails if you swap and engine ECU or instrument pack.
>
> Generally the OE radio will only ask for a code if moved to another car
> (it reads something (VIN?) from the instrument panel). Our Lupo's radio
> asks for the code if the battery is disconnected, then fixes itself after
> a couple of ignition cycles IIRC. My Audi A3 just worked without
> difficulty.
>
> You will need to reset the electric windows: wind them all the way down,
> then all the way up, holding the switch up for a few seconds. Otherwise
> the one-touch and comfort opening won't work.
>
> One other thing: if you have an engine with a stepper-motor throttle body,
> ideally you should reset the throttle adaption after disconnecting the
> battery, but often it's OK without: if you find it hunting or idling badly
> it may be needed.
>
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_%28TBA%29
lights at the weekend.
I may have a problem resetting the electric windows as the driver's side
window glass has come adrift from the regulator (a common mk4 Golf problem I
believe). But that's a job for another day :) This car does have a few
niggles but I'll put up with a lot for its 310Nm of torque from that
fantastic 1.9 PD.
Chris Whelan
Jan 18, 2013, 2:53:24 AM1/18/13
to
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 23:56:49 +0000, Andrew wrote:
[...]
> The fuse card is actually a mirror image of where the fuses are in fact
> located. It took me a bit of head scratching before I realised this! I
> can only assume the card is for a LHD car (mine is RHD but was an import
> originally) I'm pretty sure I checked the correct fuses though, as they
> are 5A (the rating specified for parking lights) and located in a far
> corner (so harder to mix up their position).
Picking a random year/model on Autodata shows the sidelight fuses as F22
and F23. If you want more accurate information, post exact model details.
[...]
> The fuse card is actually a mirror image of where the fuses are in fact
> located. It took me a bit of head scratching before I realised this! I
> can only assume the card is for a LHD car (mine is RHD but was an import
> originally) I'm pretty sure I checked the correct fuses though, as they
> are 5A (the rating specified for parking lights) and located in a far
> corner (so harder to mix up their position).
and F23. If you want more accurate information, post exact model details.
Andrew
Jan 27, 2013, 2:54:23 PM1/27/13
to
"Chris Whelan" wrote in message news:Ub7Ks.8317$3i2....@fx29.fr7...
> Picking a random year/model on Autodata shows the sidelight fuses as F22
> and F23. If you want more accurate information, post exact model details.
It turned out to be a fuse in the end, even though it looked perfect! All
working again now (bulbs are fine).
> Picking a random year/model on Autodata shows the sidelight fuses as F22
> and F23. If you want more accurate information, post exact model details.
working again now (bulbs are fine).
Mrcheerful
Jan 27, 2013, 4:05:40 PM1/27/13
to
tester you only need to swap it with the other side (or circuit) that
works.
Rob
Jan 27, 2013, 6:41:51 PM1/27/13
to
looking for a fault - looking for continuity - a blown fuse is not
always visible, even if its removed from the block for a close up
inspection.
Andrew
Jan 30, 2013, 3:02:26 PM1/30/13
to
"Mrcheerful" wrote in message news:GJgNs.3670$U6....@fx09.fr7...
> you didn't test it? what a terrible waste of time. in the absence of a
> tester you only need to swap it with the other side (or circuit) that
> works.
No, I didn't test it when I first had a (very quick) look into the problem.
As I said in my original post, it was dark and freezing cold out. Besides,
I've never seen a non-working fuse that shows no (visual) sign of having
blown before. When I came to look at it properly at the weekend, I did test
it and sorted it fairly quickly (excluding the time to go and buy a new fuse
of course, as I didn't have any of the diddly sort that do the sidelights).
> you didn't test it? what a terrible waste of time. in the absence of a
> tester you only need to swap it with the other side (or circuit) that
> works.
As I said in my original post, it was dark and freezing cold out. Besides,
I've never seen a non-working fuse that shows no (visual) sign of having
blown before. When I came to look at it properly at the weekend, I did test
it and sorted it fairly quickly (excluding the time to go and buy a new fuse
of course, as I didn't have any of the diddly sort that do the sidelights).
Chris Whelan
Jan 30, 2013, 4:21:10 PM1/30/13
to
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 20:02:26 +0000, Andrew wrote:
[...]
> Besides, I've never seen a non-working fuse that shows no (visual)
> sign of having blown before.
They are very common!
Auto fuses are cheap and cheerful; they are subjected to vibration and
temperature variations. It's no wonder they fail in the way you have
experienced.
[...]
> Besides, I've never seen a non-working fuse that shows no (visual)
> sign of having blown before.
Auto fuses are cheap and cheerful; they are subjected to vibration and
temperature variations. It's no wonder they fail in the way you have
experienced.
Rob
Jan 30, 2013, 10:17:25 PM1/30/13
to
inside the end caps.
A cheap way to test any electrical problems is to buy a test light with
a sharp probe.
I use one which has two LEDs (red and Green) in the dome and indicates
polarity as well.
http://www.austools.com.au/electrical/abw-deluxe-circuit-tester-/prod_178.html
Mine didn't cost that much either if you look around perhaps eBay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ABW-Deluxe-LED-Circuit-Tester-6v-12v-NEW-Still-in-packaging-/221180624497?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337f647e71
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