Focus 1.6 Ti-VCT cambelt replacement
Stu
2005 Focus Mk II 1.6 Ti-VCT
I've just bought the above with 39k miles on it. I understand that
this particular variant of the 1.6 is belt cam and the official
replacement interval is 8 years/100k miles. I won't be leaving it
until that mileage, but at 8 years old it's likely to have done about
60k - is it safe to leave it until then? What is considered by the
trade to be a 'safe' replacement interval for this particular engine?
When it comes to doing the job, I see that there are locking tools to
be used for the crank and cams. Are these just a fitting aid or is it
the case that you can't rely on marks to get everything accurately
aligned? Excuse my ignorance in asking this question, I've had the
cams out on bike engines before and successfully timed them back up
with no problems, but I've never tackled anything belt driven before
and I realise there are a lot more teeth on the sprockets.
Any replies greatly appreciated. Sorry for dragging up the same old
topic again, I did search old posts but couldn't see anything that
refers specifically to this engine.
Stu
Chris Whelan
Generally speaking, Ford's change intervals are conservative if anything.
I certainly wouldn't do it until very near the official interval; YMMV of
course!
Autodata gives 3 hours labour for a cam belt change, and lists 6 special
tools. At least some of these will be essential; this engine has no key
for the crankshaft pulley, it's just a taper fit, which is a big trap for
the unwary. It is also necessary to remove the RH engine mount.
As Ford have such a large mileage between changes, it's likely that most
owners will only need this doing once. It might be worth trying to find a
reliable independent or mobile to do it for you.
Chris
--
Remove prejudice to reply.
Stu
<cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote:
>
>Generally speaking, Ford's change intervals are conservative if anything.
>
>I certainly wouldn't do it until very near the official interval; YMMV of
>course!
>
years ago when I used to drive round in transits a lot. I had the belt
go before the 60k interval on two occasions and this experience has
made me wary when it comes to this first Ford of my own. Of course,
this engine is a very different animal, with a lot of the development
having come from those clever chaps from the land of the rising sun.
;-)
>Autodata gives 3 hours labour for a cam belt change, and lists 6 special
>tools. At least some of these will be essential; this engine has no key
>for the crankshaft pulley, it's just a taper fit, which is a big trap for
>the unwary. It is also necessary to remove the RH engine mount.
>
I've seen the procedure in my own copy of autodata. I'm not put off by
having to remove a mount and a few ancilliaries, but I'm coming to
realise that the locking kit will be needed to make sure it's timed up
absolutely right. I'd also need the flywheel locking tool to have any
chance of getting that crank pulley bolt undone. Why is the fact that
it's keyless a problem? Does it have to be kept at a certain
orientation when refitted?
>As Ford have such a large mileage between changes, it's likely that most
>owners will only need this doing once. It might be worth trying to find a
>reliable independent or mobile to do it for you.
>
Quite true in my case. However, about £70 worth of tools, minus their
resale value on eBay, won't come close to the cost of 3 hours
professional labour. It all comes down to how much my time is worth
and how sanguine I feel about tackling the job myself. I'll make that
decision when the time comes and I've gotten to know the car better.
Thanks for your help,
Stu
Mrcheerful
"Stu" <n...@spam.com> wrote in message
news:nqg2165dtiufmntnj...@4ax.com...
> resale value on eBay, won't come close to the cost of 3 hours
> professional labour. It all comes down to how much my time is worth
> and how sanguine I feel about tackling the job myself. I'll make that
> decision when the time comes and I've gotten to know the car better.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Stu
for a one off job you would be best to get it done professionally. the
keyless pulleys mean that there are no marks to line up, which is why you
need the aligning tools, you also need the pulley remover kit. you also need
a new pulley bolt, I would also usually do the water pump while I was in
there.
Stu
<nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>for a one off job you would be best to get it done professionally. the
>keyless pulleys mean that there are no marks to line up, which is why you
>need the aligning tools, you also need the pulley remover kit. you also need
>a new pulley bolt, I would also usually do the water pump while I was in
>there.
>
I think the penny has dropped now. It isn't just the pulley that's
keyless, but also the cambelt sprocket behind it, yes? So the pin is
required in order to ensure that the relationship between belt
position and crank angle does not change.
I saw no mention of a removal tool in autodata, would a standard 2 or
3 leg mechanical puller not suffice?
Believe me, I do understand that the sensible thing is to go to a
garage. I don't care about the cost, the problem for me is that I
started doing my own maintenance some years ago and I've never let
anyone other than myself touch my cars or bikes since. I find the
prospect of entrusting the job to a stranger quite daunting. I do have
one friend, currently working for a Subaru dealership, who has 25
years experience in the trade, and he's about the only mechanic I feel
able to trust. I think the best solution is to source the tools and
then get some assistance from him with the work.
Any further opinions on when I should get this done - is it really
quite safe to leave the original belt in until the specified 8 years?
Thanks for the advice,
Stu
Chris Whelan
[...]
> Any further opinions on when I should get this done - is it really quite
> safe to leave the original belt in until the specified 8 years?
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Stu
The interval was actually reduced for the engine you have, presumably
because of the higher loading on the belt with the VCT; other similar
Ford lumps are 10 years/100K.
I had the same dilemma with my last Focus. I eventually left it the 10
years before it was changed, with no problem. The mobile guy, who has
worked in this area for a number of years, said Zetec cambelt failure was
rare, even if mileage was exceeded. A "friend of a friend" had one fail
on a 2.0 litre Mondeo, but that car was very poorly maintained generally,
and it didn't fail until it had done 124,000 miles.
A lot will depend on how long you are going to keep the car, and your
anticipated mileage. Clearly, you want to avoid doing it more than once
if you can!
Mrcheerful
I have not yet seen one fail due to mileage, I recently changed a mondeo one
that was original from 1995 with 140k on the clock, it still looked like
new. I did see one taken apart for a new set of valves after a ham fisted
mechanic changed the belt.
I found that a puller is essential 'sometimes' when the crank pulley is
tight to come off it is really tight and sometimes this is what defeats the
home mechanic, he then tries to do it all up again and the belt pulley moves
a bit in the process and bent valves result.
Stu
<nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>Stu wrote:
>>
>> Believe me, I do understand that the sensible thing is to go to a
>> garage. I don't care about the cost, the problem for me is that I
>> started doing my own maintenance some years ago and I've never let
>> anyone other than myself touch my cars or bikes since. I find the
>> prospect of entrusting the job to a stranger quite daunting. I do have
>> one friend, currently working for a Subaru dealership, who has 25
>> years experience in the trade, and he's about the only mechanic I feel
>> able to trust. I think the best solution is to source the tools and
>> then get some assistance from him with the work.
>>
>> Any further opinions on when I should get this done - is it really
>> quite safe to leave the original belt in until the specified 8 years?
>>
>> Thanks for the advice,
>>
>> Stu
>
>I have not yet seen one fail due to mileage, I recently changed a mondeo one
>that was original from 1995 with 140k on the clock, it still looked like
>new. I did see one taken apart for a new set of valves after a ham fisted
>mechanic changed the belt.
>
>I found that a puller is essential 'sometimes' when the crank pulley is
>tight to come off it is really tight and sometimes this is what defeats the
>home mechanic, he then tries to do it all up again and the belt pulley moves
>a bit in the process and bent valves result.
>
Thanks very much to you both. I've decided to leave it until the 8
year age limit, by which time it will still be well under 100k, so I
should still be on the conservative side. ;-)
Thanks again.
Kostas Kavoussanakis
> Generally speaking, Ford's change intervals are conservative if anything.
>
> I certainly wouldn't do it until very near the official interval; YMMV of
> course!
We have had this discussion before; I have had premature failure on my
2000 Focus 1.8 petrol; my local garage had recommended changing it 6
month sor so before it went, as he had experience of them going on
Fords.
YMMV, as your engine is different (but are the belts and tensioners
different? I don't know).
--
Kostas
Chris Whelan
Some early 1.8/2.0 (Zetec E) engines suffered from early failure of the
tensioner, but it was easy to predict as they squeaked from cold long
before they failed. Perhaps this is why your garage advised early
replacement?
The belt arrangement is totally different on the OP's car.
Kostas Kavoussanakis
No, there was no squeak. He just advises 60K replacement on Fords, as
he has had to repair failures on a few. Maybe his view is outdated,
but he got it right on mine.
> The belt arrangement is totally different on the OP's car.
Cheers, this may make material difference.
--
Kostas