2CV problem

[Peter Butler]

A friend of mine's mother has got a 2CV, clapped out old thing and I hate it
but...

For some reason the battery keeps on going flat, especially after she has
had the lights on. I figured a problem with the alternator, problem is that
she doesn't have a lot of money and so I was trying to work out precisely
what is wrong before she has to start buying bits!

Does this sound about right? How can I test the alternator?

thanks

PB

[Duncan Wood]

"Peter Butler" <butler(spam).hous...@virgin.net> wrote in message
news:pg64a.821$uz6.1...@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...

Get a multimeter & measure the battery voltage when it's engines stopped.
Should be ~11.8V with the head lights on. If it's over 12.2V your
multimeters duff, if it's less charge the battery. If it's still less you've
got an inaccurate meter. Start the engine. After 30 seconds or so you should
have ~13.8V across the battery. It should be able to maintain this with the
headlamps on.

[Guy King]

The message <b2qsrh$s3s$1$8302...@news.demon.co.uk>
from "Duncan Wood" <free...@dmx512.co.uk> contains these words:

> Get a multimeter & measure the battery voltage when it's engines stopped.
> Should be ~11.8V with the head lights on. If it's over 12.2V your
> multimeters duff, if it's less charge the battery. If it's still less you've
> got an inaccurate meter. Start the engine. After 30 seconds or so you should
> have ~13.8V across the battery. It should be able to maintain this with the
> headlamps on.

Don't forget that 2CVs had external mechanical alternator control packs.
The Haynes manual reckons 12.6 volts at idle rising to 14 or 15 volts at
higher engine revs.

Of course...it may have a dynamo!

--
Skipweasel:-
"...and ninthly...."

[Rohtarin]

Had the same problem a few years back,changed the fuse plate on the rear of the
alt "which cost buttons" and it cured the problem... Try a trip to the scrappy
you may be in luck......

[Mike P]

"Peter Butler" <butler(spam).hous...@virgin.net> wrote in message
news:pg64a.821$uz6.1...@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...

Could also be the voltage regulator - a small black box *near* the battery,
on a 2CV it's probably either dangling around loose, or cable-tied to one of
the cardboard heater pipes. Quite often fails and overcharges the battery .
Is there any white residue on the battery, or terminals?. Overcharging kills
the battery and gives the symptoms you describe. Start the engine, put a
multimeter across the battery. Should read ~13.8-14.2V according to manual.
Mine read 15.8V and fried the battery. You can adjust the old sort of
regulator, but it's easier to just buy a new one
from www.ecas.co.uk - I'm not connected to them, just a happy customer. Good
for all 2CV parts.

I've replaced 2 regulators on my 2CVs, but never an alternator..

Could be a loose/worn alternator belt too. . You can see it buy removing the
mesh over the fan and peeping through. It should have about 1/2" play in it.
Easy to adjust because the alternator bolts are easy to get to. If it needs
replacement, you CAN get your hands round the fan to put a new belt it.

HTH

Mike

[Phil]

roht...@aol.com (Rohtarin) wrote in message news:<20030217150336...@mb-cn.aol.com>...

> Had the same problem a few years back,changed the fuse plate on the rear of the
> alt "which cost buttons" and it cured the problem... Try a trip to the scrappy
> you may be in luck......

Please give us a clue as to which alt you have
Iskra,Ducelier,bosch,paris rhone,valeo?

However get a voltmeter connect both wires on back and rev if volts go
to 16 volts alt is ok
If it does not then remove brush pack if Iskra and buy new one or get
reconditioner to solder new ones in my guy charges a fiver and as an
ex specialist i have changed dozens of Iskras. (NO fuse in Iskra)
HTH PHIL