Nissan Micra starting problems
Brian Devine
I'm experiencing intermittent problems starting my 1994 1.0L Micra. When I
turn the key to start it, it just keeps turning over, but the engine does
not start. I'm not technically minded when it comes to telling what noise is
coming from where. I assume the "turning over" sound is that of the starter
motor. Trying to jump start it by hooking it up to the battery of another
car wont start the engine either.
The car has now failed to start twice this week, and a new battery confirms
(for me) that it's not a battery problem. The only way to get it started is
to tow it with another car and engage the clutch while in 2nd gear. I'm
prepared to call out Green Flag the next time it happens, but it's a pain
having a car that I can no longer rely on to start. It's just a nagging
problem that doesn't seem to have an obvious culprit. The first time it
wouldn't start this week was when my wife drove the car to a friends, sat
outside with the lights on and engine off, then couldn't start 20 minutes
later. A push start sorted this one. The second time was yesterday - trying
to push it to start it and replacing the battery still didn't sort it and I
had to get a tow before it would start. It did however start first time this
morning.
Does anyone have any clues about what I should check first? If the starter
motor is turning, is it an electrical or mechanical fault that lies in the
ignition process beyond this point? A few helpful pointers may guide me in
the right direction to pinpoint something that may be a minor fault to
rectify. Failing that, I'll take it to a garage at the weekend.
Thanks.
Brian.
Roger
Sounds like there isn't enough juice to run the starter and the HT
circuit at the same time. Check all the connections and the condition
of the rotor arm, distributor cap and HT leads. If they haven't been
changed (and they're not a service item according to Nissan), these will
be pretty rough by now.
--
Roger
ICQ: 40038278
ICBM: 51.56N, 1.47W
"Many fall down, but few return to the sunlit lands"
downth...@zetnet.co.uk
>>
>> I'm experiencing intermittent problems starting my 1994 1.0L Micra. When I
>> turn the key to start it, it just keeps turning over, but the engine does
>> not start. I'm not technically minded when it comes to telling what noise is
>> coming from where. I assume the "turning over" sound is that of the starter
>> motor. Trying to jump start it by hooking it up to the battery of another
>> car wont start the engine either.
>
My daughter had a similar problem a few weeks ago. We eventually
called out the breakdown service. The engine had flooded and we were
told that even if we left it for days it would still be flooded and
wouldn't start. This occurs when you only drive a short distance,
about 10 yards in her case. A common problem with Micra's
This is what he did.
Removed the fuse for the fuel pump, can't remember the number but it
is indicated on the fuse box cover , or look in your user manual.
Turned the starter motor and it fired and used up the fuel and then
stopped.
Turned off the ignition, replaced the fuse, and then turned on
ignition. No problem. Let it run for 5minutes.
Worth a try, if it doesn't work then at least flooding is eliminated.
Norma
Norma
(please do not reply by email)
Dan
> My daughter had a similar problem a few weeks ago. We eventually
> called out the breakdown service. The engine had flooded and we were
> told that even if we left it for days it would still be flooded and
> wouldn't start. This occurs when you only drive a short distance,
> about 10 yards in her case. A common problem with Micra's
Well, ours does that, but 10 seconds on the starter with the pedal floored
always cures it!
Robbie Baldock
Micra out in the cold for a few days and the poor wee thing wouldn't
start.
Eventually the recovery people managed to get it going by drying out
the cylinder bores with a blow-torch(!). They did the same to the
spark plugs.
Apparently Micras are notorious for getting damp...
Once you eventually get it going again, spray some WD-40 over the HT
leads and spark plug caps to minimise the chances of it happening
again...
Robbie
-------------------------------------------------------------
Robbie Baldock
r c b AT e a s y n e t DOT c o DOT u k (you know what to do!)
http://www.rcb.easynet.co.uk/
-------------------------------------------------------------
Roger
>
> I had this problem last year. I made the mistake of leaving my 98
> Micra out in the cold for a few days and the poor wee thing wouldn't
> start.
>
> Eventually the recovery people managed to get it going by drying out
> the cylinder bores with a blow-torch(!). They did the same to the
> spark plugs.
How did they do the bores without burning the oil seals at the bottom of
the spark plug tubes?!
Heating plugs over a gas ring is the usual way to start a car that's
really badly flooded to the extent that the plugs are wet.
downth...@zetnet.co.uk
about 10 yards in her case. A common problem with Micra's
>
>Well, ours does that, but 10 seconds on the starter with the pedal floored
>always cures it!
Can only speak from experience, tried that and it didn't start!
Guy King
the assembled horde and spake thusly....
> How did they do the bores without burning the oil seals at the bottom of
> the spark plug tubes?!
Wow, when did they start fitting oil seals to plugs?
--
Skipweasel...
Fools seldom defer.
GL
injected...........this is a known problem on certain Micra's. Nissan
produce a modified wiring harness for the coolant temp sensor and different
spark plugs to overcome the flooding problem.
The early Micra (pre coil on plug) is also prone to corroded King lead (coil
to distributor) at
the distributor. Remove the lead and look for corrosion/dampness at either
end.
Garry
Brian Devine
"Robbie Baldock" <nos...@nospam.nospam> wrote in message
news:oqqa7ukd141pvn89g...@4ax.com...
Funny you should mention using a blow torch on the spark plugs. I had what
appears to be the same symptoms a year or so ago. The AA man couldn't get it
started until he finally removed the spark plugs and used a blow-torch to
heat the ends of them. I didn't quite twig at the time that it was meant to
just dry them out!
The car has been starting fine since Monday. Some of the things people have
suggested here certainly make sense. The only thing is that on the night the
wife drove to a friends (a 7 or 8 mile road and motorway journey), the car
wouldn't start after sitting for around 20 minutes with the engine turned
off - this doesn't seem long enough for the engine to cool and become damp
(I can't recall what the weather was like though). Maybe this was just to do
with the battery being run down?
Brian.
Guy King
assembled horde and spake thusly....
> Funny you should mention using a blow torch on the spark plugs. I had what
> appears to be the same symptoms a year or so ago. The AA man couldn't get it
> started until he finally removed the spark plugs and used a blow-torch to
> heat the ends of them. I didn't quite twig at the time that it was meant to
> just dry them out!
Sometimes having them nice and warm helps, too. Mind you...you have to
be pretty quick to get four of them back into car engine quick enough to
be much help. Used to work a treat on single cylinder 2-stroke engines.
GL
car is started from cold the plugs get sooty (carbon), if it is then turned
off within a short period of time they will not have had time to self clean.
When an attempt is made to re-start; the injected fuel sticks to the dry
sooty plugs, this creates a shunt path for the spark. This means a weaker
or no spark.
Remember in the old days they use top say "don't pump the accelerator
pedal".......newer fuel injected cars do this automatically. Older carbs
has an accelerator pump which squirted fuel in when the accelerator was
pumped (driver controlled) newer fuel injected cars automatically squirt
fuel in (usually 36psi provided by an electric pump) regardless of pedal
position but the duration is controlled electronically (not driver
controlled). This is where the temp sensor comes in....... the colder the
car the longer the injector duration, I.e the injector is open longer so
much more fuel is pumped in.
Replacing the plugs, cleaning/drying the plugs, cutting the fuel supply
(remove fuse) and flooring the accelerator (letting in more air) all work.
One removes the fouling the other introduces more air to balance the excess
fuel.
The Nissan modification is multiple earth spark plugs (to reduce fouling)
and alterations to the temp sensor resistance which alters the injector
duration (reduces fuel).
Well that's my theory anyway for what its worth.
HTH
Garry
skhulu...@gmail.com
Tim+
probably beyond economic repair.
Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls
Adrian Caspersz
> Hi there, my I have a 2006Micra 15dci sport. It has been parked for a
> year 9months now, the problem was that, they filled it with petrol it
> then went off they blow it but it has been park since then, now it
> doesn't want to start its only cranks I dnt knw what to do and I
> can't explain the problem of it any longer not sure anymore. Please
> help me and get it started. Thank you
>
Try code 3453
--
Adrian C
