Sealing the lids on paint tins
john brook
bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints
and glues that come stored in tins.
It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a
'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes
through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic
bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing?
Dave Plowman (News)
The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large
quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
--
*Rehab is for quitters
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Dave Plowman (News)
steve robinson <st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large
> > quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
Or fill the space with some inert gas?
--
*Strip mining prevents forest fires.
steve robinson
> In article <iuukog$lit$1...@dont-email.me>,
> john brook <plan...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> > Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up
> > vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of
> > varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins.
>
> > It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they
> > act like a 'washer' and hence give a more airtight seal. But
> > since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is
> > packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be
> > worth doing?
>
> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large
> quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
Nightjar
> Huge wrote:
>
>> On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman (News)<da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>>> In article<xn0hg8zi...@reader80.eternal-september.org>,
>>> steve robinson<st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
>>>> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the
>> large>> > quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
>>>
>>>> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
>>>
>>> Or fill the space with some inert gas?
>>
>
> Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced.
>
With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
on top, when you come to use it.
Colin Bignell
steve robinson
> On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
> > In article <xn0hg8zi...@reader80.eternal-september.org>,
> > steve robinson <st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
> >> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the
> large >> > quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
> >
> >> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
> >
> > Or fill the space with some inert gas?
>
Steve Firth
It makes a difference because the skin is under the paint and it's easy to
fill a paint kettle from the tin.
Robin
> jars with a self sealing valve on top and a sort of hand operated
> vacuum pump. The idea being you removed any air after putting back on
> the lid. Rather like canning works, but without the heat.
I still have one. Uses the same pump and same design of valve as
vac-u-vin.
> It was short term storage of edible products - and may well have been
> before most had 'fridges. But like many such things on TV, never saw
> it again.
Some still available. Just pop "vacuvin storage" into the search engine
of your choice. Bit pricey for paint though and possibly not suitable
for oil based paints 'cos of the effects of "the vapours".
--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com
Dave Plowman (News)
jars with a self sealing valve on top and a sort of hand operated vacuum
pump. The idea being you removed any air after putting back on the lid.
Rather like canning works, but without the heat.
It was short term storage of edible products - and may well have been
before most had 'fridges. But like many such things on TV, never saw it
again.
--
*Toilet stolen from police station. Cops have nothing to go on.
Mrcheerful
> On 7/5/2011 6:19 AM, Mrcheerful wrote:
>> Dave Liquorice wrote:
>>> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>>>
>>>> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint,
>>>> not on top, when you come to use it.
>>>
>>> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>>>
>>> As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided
>>> the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid
>>> and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps
>>> from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and
>>> if there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact.
>>
>> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint
>> tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or
>> an inner cup that could be screwed inside the can and would then
>> effectively raise the bottom surface of the can.
>
> Like these?
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20052&cat=1,190,44133&ap=1
dang, I was too late.
Steve Turner
> Dave Liquorice wrote:
>> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>>
>>> not on top, when you come to use it.
>>
>> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>>
>> As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided
>> the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid
>> and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps
>> from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and if
>> there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact.
>
> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that
> can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or an inner cup
> that could be screwed inside the can and would then effectively raise the
> bottom surface of the can.
Like these?
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20052&cat=1,190,44133&ap=1
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
S Viemeister
> In article<xn0hg8zi...@reader80.eternal-september.org>,
> steve robinson<st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
>> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large
>>> quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
>
>> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
>
> Or fill the space with some inert gas?
>
space, and makes it easy to see the colour.
Mrcheerful
> In message <wrCQp.38442$w86....@newsfe22.ams2>, Mrcheerful
> <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> writes
>>
>> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
>> that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?
>
> developer.
> http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG
>
> They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine
> with fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying
> to whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-)
That would be a job to be passed to 'the boy'
Owain
> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that
> can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?
Something like a wine box?
Owain
Andy Burns
Only if there's more than 1/2 a tin left when you put it away!
Nightjar
> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>
>> on top, when you come to use it.
>
> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
Carefully. Although, if I keep a paint long enough for it to skin, the
skin is usually so thick that the propblem is how to break it.
Colin Bignell
Mrcheerful
problem is that paint separates, so it needs to be something with a solid
bottom and room to get a stirrer in. What about a tough plastic bag inside
a tin?, you could then seal the bag in close proximity to the surface of the
paint and undo it for stirring and use.
harry
Make sure lids are on tight and just store the tins upsiide down. End
of problem.
Andrew Gabriel
I've never had a skin form in any tin stored upside down.
Skin forms because refitted lid rarely seals perfectly and
you get slow air exchange, but it does seal much better if
you store the tin upside down (and is noticably harder to
open;-).
By the way, I noticed on the instructions on a tin it
said "do not open with a screwdriver". So what are you
supposed to use? I used a screwdriver...
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Andrew Morton
> In article <xn0hg8zi...@reader80.eternal-september.org>,
> steve robinson <st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
>> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large
>>> quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
>
>> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
>
> Or fill the space with some inert gas?
Or use an inflated plastic bag to fill the void.
(I started off writing "blow up a plastic bag...", but I suspect this is one
problem that wouldn't be best solved with explosives :)
--
Andrew
Robin
> pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces
> most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide.
Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5%
carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15%
oxygen (plus added water vapour).
stephe...@btinternet.com
Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>On 05/07/2011 13:46, stephe...@btinternet.com wrote:
>> In message<nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk>
>> "Dave Liquorice"<allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>>>
>>>> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
>>>> on top, when you come to use it.
>>>
>>> But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
>>> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>>
>> With sufficient air space in the tin the oil paint will skin over
>> anyway, this will protect the remaining paint and depending on
>> the type of paint you are supposed to either cut off and remove
>> the skin then thoroughly stir or stir in the skin
>
>What's the deal there - I never know what to do for the best when
>I come across skin on paint. I usually make a judgement on
>whether it will actually ever stir in, and if not (eg if it's an
>eighth of an inch of hard dry crust!) I remove it.
It depends how thick the skin is, if it is thin then usually the
oil has not separated and you can just lift the skin off, If it is
thick and sat on separated oil then this oil should be stirred
back in and then strained to remove the bits of skin, this way you
don't lose the integrity of the paint.
>What does it do to the quality of the paint itself? Would the
>underlying paint become more (or less?) concentrated from repeated
>removal of skin? Or is the skin layer identical in quality/content to
>the liquid?
Oil paint is not resoluble so you have to remove the skin but
sometimes the skin is so thick and hard the paint underneath will
need that bit of medium that's still stuck to the base of the
skin.
Oil paint will become concentrated during use anyway as the
solvents or oil evaporate.
You can however add a little boiled Linseed oil if the paint
appears far too thick to be satisfactorily usable.
Stephen.
--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
From the Wirral Peninsular.
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
stephe...@btinternet.com
"Dave Liquorice" <allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>
>> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
>> on top, when you come to use it.
>
>But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
>breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
With sufficient air space in the tin the oil paint will skin over
anyway, this will protect the remaining paint and depending on
the type of paint you are supposed to either cut off and remove
the skin then thoroughly stir or stir in the skin and then strain
through a nylon stocking or purpose made paint strainer.
Dave Liquorice
> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
> on top, when you come to use it.
But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided
the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid
and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps
from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and if
there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact.
--
Cheers
Dave.
steve robinson
The reason for rotating tins was to help keep the oils and pigments
mixed, otherwise they eventually seperate
Bo...@somewhere.com
>Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable
>bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints
>and glues that come stored in tins.
>
>It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a
>'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal.
Might be a good idea if you don't clean the rim...
>But since air passes
>through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic
>bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing?
Air passes through plastic sheet generally less than 4mm thick, but as a gasket
I don't think this applies.
I solve the "air in paint can" problem by filling the can up with glass marbles
to take up the space. I used to do this in my darkroom for my photo chemicals,
but thats long gone! Glass of course doesn't react with the paint, and they
stay on the bottom. A bonus is as you shake the can, they stir the paint! (Hold
the lid on...)
The only problem at the beginning was raiding enough toy stores to get a gallon
of marbles! The dollar store was a good find!
See the pic of my cleaned marbles drying on the stove top at
Alt.binaries.photos.original
Harry Bloomfield
> Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable
> bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and
> glues that come stored in tins.
>
> It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a
> albeit slowly, would this be worth doing?
Once the lid is firmly back on, just turn it upside down. The what ever
it is inside will seal the gaps in the lid and prevent any more air
entering.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
Moonraker
> Robin wrote:
>>> * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then -
>>> pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces
>>> most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide.
>>
>> Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5%
>> carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15%
>> oxygen (plus added water vapour).
>
>
> the paint and leaves the open end outside the can, putting the lid on inside
> the open end of the bag would mean that air could not get to the paint
> surface. A bit like the old idea of a greaseproof paper round on top of
> jam.
>
>
I simply pour gently, a small amount of turps on the paint, this in my
experience stops it skimming and is easily stirred in before the next
use. Another thing I have found useful is if I use a paint brush then
need to continue the job the next day wiping any excess paint off then
firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable
until the morrow.
--
Residing on low ground in North Staffordshire
Lobster
Cue the "Mr Bean does decorating" clip from Youtube...
David
HeyBub
> Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up
> vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of
> varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins.
>
> It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act
> like a 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air
> passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in
> 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing?
Oxygen is the enemy of unused paint. Here are some tips:
* Don't paint out of the can. Pour paint into another container and re-seal
the can.
* When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay
attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the
oxygen with carbon dioxide.
* Use a plastic bag as your friend suggested. It acts like a gasket around
the edges.
* Store the can upside down. Any remaining oxygen will cause a thin film to
form on what will be the bottom of the paint next time you open the can.
* Make sure the lid is on tightly. Else some paint will leak out, firmly
attaching the lid to the shelf such that when you grab the can, the lid
stays on the shelf, the remaining paint plops to the floor, and you have an
empty can in your hand.
Mrcheerful
>> * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then -
>> pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces
>> most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide.
>
> Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5%
> carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15%
> oxygen (plus added water vapour).
Mrcheerful
so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that
Max
> Oxygen is the enemy of unused paint. Here are some tips:
>
> * Don't paint out of the can. Pour paint into another container and
> re-seal the can.
> * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay
> attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of
> the oxygen with carbon dioxide.
> * Use a plastic bag as your friend suggested. It acts like a gasket around
> the edges.
> * Store the can upside down. Any remaining oxygen will cause a thin film
> to form on what will be the bottom of the paint next time you open the
> can.
> * Make sure the lid is on tightly. Else some paint will leak out, firmly
> attaching the lid to the shelf such that when you grab the can, the lid
> stays on the shelf, the remaining paint plops to the floor, and you have
> an empty can in your hand.
And be sure that a dumb blonde doesn't get a hold of these instructions.
;-)
Max
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
>Huge wrote:
>
>> On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>> > In article <xn0hg8zi...@reader80.eternal-september.org>,
>> > steve robinson <st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
>> >> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the
>> large >> > quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
>> >
>> >> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
>> >
>> > Or fill the space with some inert gas?
>>
>> Store the tins upside down.
>
>Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced.
Fill the can with CO2 before closing - no oxygen to react with the
driers in the paint. CO2 is heavier than air, so displaces the air and
stays in the can.
Storing the can upside down just puts the "skin" on the bottom
Andy Burns
> On 05/07/2011 15:30, Moonraker wrote:
>
>> firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable
>> until the morrow.
>
> I find a couple of layers of Tesco bags does the trick equally well
> actually - at least it's a use for the bloody things.
Tesco bags are probably the worst choice for that, especially if they're
more than a few weeks old, their bags bio/photo/oxi-degrade very quickly ...
> I employed a pro decorator a few months ago
> for the first time in my life. I was very intrigued that he had a new
> Special Box which he stored all his used brushes in;
Been mentioned before, I think.
Rob
> In article<xn0hg8zi...@reader80.eternal-september.org>,
> steve robinson<st...@colevalleyinteriors.co.uk> wrote:
>> The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large
>>> quantity of new air when you replace the lid.
>
>> Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom
>
> Or fill the space with some inert gas?
>
Yea right - every time I do that with compresses gas it usually blows
the lid off :)
stephe...@btinternet.com
Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>On 05/07/2011 15:30, Moonraker wrote:
>
>> Another thing I have found useful is if I use a paint brush then
>> need to continue the job the next day wiping any excess paint off then
>> firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable
>> until the morrow.
>
>I find a couple of layers of Tesco bags does the trick equally well
>actually - at least it's a use for the bloody things.
>
>Embarrassing confession - I employed a pro decorator a few months ago
>for the first time in my life. I was very intrigued that he had a new
>Special Box which he stored all his used brushes in; only it wasn't one
>of those where the bristles sit in turps, ISTR there was some form of
>chemical vapour in there which prevented the brushes from drying out
>indefinitely. He said it was the mutt's nuts and he'd pretty well given
>up on turps and brush cleaner. Can't remember what the stuff was though...
>
>David
>
Mineral Naphtha and Linseed oil was what we used to store our
paint brushes in, the oil stopped the naphtha from evaporating too
quickly, the naphtha will draw out paint completely from the brush
stock or bristle base.
Leaving a brush in a turpentine derivative will simply congeal the
remainder of paint left in the bristles.
Stephen.
polygonum
Smile. Get to know the staff. And ask nicely in a Johnstone's decorator
centre. And they might give you a special paint tin opener.
That's what I did. Unfortunately not one of the nice Johnstone's branded
ones as they had run out, but a not so nice old Dulux one. Can't win 'em
all.
Rod
HeyBub
> Air passes through plastic sheet generally less than 4mm thick, but
> as a gasket I don't think this applies.
>
> I solve the "air in paint can" problem by filling the can up with
> glass marbles to take up the space. I used to do this in my darkroom
> for my photo chemicals, but thats long gone! Glass of course doesn't
> react with the paint, and they stay on the bottom. A bonus is as you
> shake the can, they stir the paint! (Hold the lid on...)
>
> The only problem at the beginning was raiding enough toy stores to
> get a gallon of marbles! The dollar store was a good find!
>
You don't need to visit toy stores. Search the web for "marbles wholesale"
Here's one place that sells about 500 5/8" marbles for $28 (500=half-gallon)
(smaller assortments available).
http://www.landofmarbles.com/marble-sets-and-assortments.html
Apparently the marble business is highly competitive...
Lobster
> "Dave Liquorice"<allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>>
>>> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
>>> on top, when you come to use it.
>>
>> But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
>> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>
> With sufficient air space in the tin the oil paint will skin over
> anyway, this will protect the remaining paint and depending on
> the type of paint you are supposed to either cut off and remove
> the skin then thoroughly stir or stir in the skin
What's the deal there - I never know what to do for the best when I come
across skin on paint. I usually make a judgement on whether it will
actually ever stir in, and if not (eg if it's an eighth of an inch of
hard dry crust!) I remove it.
What does it do to the quality of the paint itself? Would the
underlying paint become more (or less?) concentrated from repeated
removal of skin? Or is the skin layer identical in quality/content to
the liquid?
David
-MIKE-
>
> Surely the place to put the plastic sheet is lying on top of the
> paint. this separates it from the air.
>
> Robert
>
This is the only good advice you've gotten. The air inside the can is
enough to skin over the paint. Kitchen plastic wrap pushed down into the
can, touching the entire surface of the paint will keep air away from
the paint... then cap the can with the lid.
Works great on ice cream, too, to keep it from crystallizing or getting
freezer burn on the surface.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
PeterC
> By the way, I noticed on the instructions on a tin it
> said "do not open with a screwdriver". So what are you
> supposed to use? I used a screwdriver...
The tin of emulsion from TS was so thin that a screwdriver would have opened
it - like a can opener!
The best tool I found for the job was an old metal tyre lever (push-bike
size) that id rounded and smoothed about 40 years ago. Plenty of area and no
sharp edges.
Then "stir thoroughly": even a plastic kitchen thingy (overgrown spoon,
metal handle) deformed the can, so a metal stirrer... )h, also about 5mm of
freeboard in a 5 litre can...
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
Paul Giverin
<johnwil...@btinternet.com> writes
>Rob wrote:
>>>
>> Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.
>
>Ah, now, I'm hoping to move within the next few weeks. The place I
>intend moving to has a large, windowless area just the right size for
>an enlarger and the associated bits,
Don't forget the kettle and biscuit tin.
> and I do enjoy messing about with proper B&W film. Much more
>satisfying than manipulating bits, IMO.
>
Absolutely! Watching that image appear in the developer tray is still a
magic moment. Beats clicking the "OK" button in Photoshop.
--
Paul Giverin
My Photos:- www.pbase.com/vendee
Paul Giverin
writes
>On 6/07/2011 1:58 AM, Paul Giverin wrote:
>> In message <wrCQp.38442$w86....@newsfe22.ams2>, Mrcheerful
>> <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> writes
>>>
>>> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that
>>> can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?
>>
>> developer.
>> http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG
>>
>> They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine with
>> fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to
>> whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-)
>>
>
>Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.
Yebbut you can't escape to your desktop and lock the door for the
afternoon.
Dave Liquorice
> A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
> value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.
I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
down over paint trays and rollers.
Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Andy Champ
> Store the tins upside down.
>
You don't need to store them upside down (which as others have pointed
out means any skin is under the paint and hard to deal with) simply
inverting them once so paint seals the edge of the lid seems to make a
difference to me.
Andy
Lobster
> Another thing I have found useful is if I use a paint brush then
> need to continue the job the next day wiping any excess paint off then
> firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable
> until the morrow.
I find a couple of layers of Tesco bags does the trick equally well
actually - at least it's a use for the bloody things.
Embarrassing confession - I employed a pro decorator a few months ago
Paul Giverin
>can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?
I've got a few concertina bottles in my darkroom for storing film
developer.
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG
They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine with
fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to
whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-)
--
Charles
> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
>
>> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
>> on top, when you come to use it.
>
> But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>
As the man says. If the skin is on the top you can cut it and remove it
... if underneath it will be mixed, broken and you will have to sieve
the paint.
:-)
Rob
Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Gib Bogle
Makes sense.
John Williamson
Ah, now, I'm hoping to move within the next few weeks. The place I
intend moving to has a large, windowless area just the right size for an
enlarger and the associated bits, and I do enjoy messing about with
proper B&W film. Much more satisfying than manipulating bits, IMO.
--
Tciao for Now!
John.
John Williamson
> In message <97iahb...@mid.individual.net>, John Williamson
> <johnwil...@btinternet.com> writes
>> Rob wrote:
>>>>
>>> Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.
>>
>> Ah, now, I'm hoping to move within the next few weeks. The place I
>> intend moving to has a large, windowless area just the right size for
>> an enlarger and the associated bits,
>
> Don't forget the kettle and biscuit tin.
>
dennis@home
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:njl717du346tvflp5...@4ax.com...
Hmm!
�12 per brush @ 5 minutes to clean = �144 per hour, what does he paint or
does he use cr@p brushes?
I have some I paid about 15p each for but they ain't for putting gloss on
doors.
Dave Liquorice
>> But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
>> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>
> Without stirring it (or maybe after first stirring very carefully,
> without breaking the skin), you decant most of the paint off into
> another container. You then scrape off the sludge from the inside of the
> lid, add it to the paint you have decanted, and stir it in well.
>
> After you have used the paint, if there's still some left, you can pour
> it back unto the original tin until the next time you need it.
Gawd what a faff and lots of containers all mucky with paint...
> Once opened, I suspect that a re-sealed tin often allows small amounts
> of air to get in. Storing it upside down probably helps the lid to be
> absolutely air-tight - just make sure it doesn't leak!
See other comments about tins stuck to shelves. Think I'll stick with
cleaning lid rim and can carefully and tapping the lid fully home.
With maybe an inversion to get paint around the inner edges but store
the right way up.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Ian Jackson
Liquorice <allsortsn...@howhill.com> writes
>On Tue, 5 Jul 2011 14:00:08 +0100, Ian Jackson wrote:
>
>>> But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without
>>> breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>>
>> Without stirring it (or maybe after first stirring very carefully,
>> without breaking the skin), you decant most of the paint off into
>> another container. You then scrape off the sludge from the inside of the
>> lid, add it to the paint you have decanted, and stir it in well.
>>
>> After you have used the paint, if there's still some left, you can pour
>> it back unto the original tin until the next time you need it.
>
>Gawd what a faff and lots of containers all mucky with paint...
>
you use to give your brush its first clean with white spirit. You then
leave the contents for a week or two, until the paint settles into a
sludge, then decant off the white spirit for re-use. Put the jar away
for a few months, until the sludge solidifies, then remove the sludge,
and dispose of it as a solid lump. Re-use the jar for brush cleaning
etc.
>> Once opened, I suspect that a re-sealed tin often allows small amounts
>> of air to get in. Storing it upside down probably helps the lid to be
>> absolutely air-tight - just make sure it doesn't leak!
>
>See other comments about tins stuck to shelves.
Don't you line your shelves with sheets of newspaper?
> Think I'll stick with
>cleaning lid rim and can carefully and tapping the lid fully home.
>With maybe an inversion to get paint around the inner edges but store
>the right way up.
>
--
Ian
Mrcheerful
You can get one size packs from screwfix and the like. I tend to get
cheapies and throw them for all undercoats and a Harris or something like
that for finishing and then immediately clean it.
Ian Jackson
Liquorice <allsortsn...@howhill.com> writes
>
>> With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not
>> on top, when you come to use it.
>
>breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint?
>
Without stirring it (or maybe after first stirring very carefully,
without breaking the skin), you decant most of the paint off into
another container. You then scrape off the sludge from the inside of the
lid, add it to the paint you have decanted, and stir it in well.
After you have used the paint, if there's still some left, you can pour
it back unto the original tin until the next time you need it.
Once opened, I suspect that a re-sealed tin often allows small amounts
of air to get in. Storing it upside down probably helps the lid to be
absolutely air-tight - just make sure it doesn't leak!
>
>
--
Ian
RobertL
> Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable
> bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints
> and glues that come stored in tins.
Rob
But will it take a 8"x10" enlarger?
I changed in 2003 (shot my last film), my enlargers(2) are still in the
darkroom with a wet bench, colour processor and film processor.
I haven't looked back, better for my health not breathing or touching
chemicals.
I can digitize old film formats, manipulate to any film texture and
print to 24" wide on the Epson printer.
But I'm thinking of resurrecting my 120 panoramic cameras and the E6
processor. i don't like the feel of digital images.
r
John Williamson
> On 6/07/2011 3:35 PM, John Williamson wrote:
>> Rob wrote:
>>> On 6/07/2011 1:58 AM, Paul Giverin wrote:
>>>> In message <wrCQp.38442$w86....@newsfe22.ams2>, Mrcheerful
>>>> <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> writes
>>>>>
>>>>> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
>>>>> that
>>>>> can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?
>>>>
>>>> I've got a few concertina bottles in my darkroom for storing film
>>>> developer.
>>>> http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG
>>>>
>>>> They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine
>>>> with
>>>> fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to
>>>> whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-)
>>>>
>>>
>>> Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.
>>
>> Ah, now, I'm hoping to move within the next few weeks. The place I
>> intend moving to has a large, windowless area just the right size for an
>> enlarger and the associated bits, and I do enjoy messing about with
>> proper B&W film. Much more satisfying than manipulating bits, IMO.
>>
>
> But will it take a 8"x10" enlarger?
>
> I changed in 2003 (shot my last film), my enlargers(2) are still in the
> darkroom with a wet bench, colour processor and film processor.
>
> I haven't looked back, better for my health not breathing or touching
> chemicals.
>
> I can digitize old film formats, manipulate to any film texture and
> print to 24" wide on the Epson printer.
>
> But I'm thinking of resurrecting my 120 panoramic cameras and the E6
> processor. i don't like the feel of digital images.
>
Another excellent reason. Which reminds me...
<Takes down Cibachrome print of a windmill in silhouette, and carefully
packs it away for the move later today>
I know for a fact that the detail inside the silhouette couldn't
possibly be reproduce on *any* digital printout. Black on darker black,
it is, and *very* subtle.
HeyBub
Try this technique:
1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
brush spinner).
2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
excess.
3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.
Done.
For latex or water-based paints, add fabric softener to the water in which
you swish the brush.
Rob
Well yes they can now - my printer has 4 blacks, three are used at
anyone time, which enable you to reproduce a very good grey scale.(Epson
7900 11 inks) unlike the others that mix colours to imitate black. I
think that the blacks would show better detail than the Ciba, which I
found too contrasty.
r
stephe...@btinternet.com
cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
He must be made of money unless he uses cheap brushes and by using
cheap throw away brushes how does he produce a decent finish.
This painter can't value his work very much.
Stephen.
--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
From the Wirral Peninsular.
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
Rich
> In message <njl717du346tvflp5...@4ax.com>
> cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 19:45:51 +0100, Andy Burns
>><usenet....@adslpipe.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>Been mentioned before, I think.
>>>
>>>http://www.brushmate.co.uk/
>
>>A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you
>>don't value your time highly enough"
>>Every job gets a new brush.
>
> He must be made of money unless he uses cheap brushes and by using
> cheap throw away brushes how does he produce a decent finish.
> This painter can't value his work very much.
>
> Stephen.
>
>
I buy semi expensive brushes. Can't imagine throwing them away after every
job. It does not take long to clean a brush specially if you use a paint
cleaning comb.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb
Gib Bogle
> Dave Liquorice wrote:
>> On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:30:02 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>
>>> A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
>>> value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.
>>
>> I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
>> next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
>> down over paint trays and rollers.
>>
>> Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
>> brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
>> sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.
>
> Try this technique:
>
> 1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
> brush spinner).
> 2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
> excess.
> 3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.
Don't forget to exhale ten times.
Gib Bogle
> On 7/5/11 9:39 AM, RobertL wrote:
>>
>> Surely the place to put the plastic sheet is lying on top of the
>> paint. this separates it from the air.
>>
>> Robert
>>
>
> enough to skin over the paint. Kitchen plastic wrap pushed down into the
> can, touching the entire surface of the paint will keep air away from
> the paint... then cap the can with the lid.
>
> Works great on ice cream, too, to keep it from crystallizing or getting
> freezer burn on the surface.
>
>
The only disadvantage (as I pointed out upthread) is that this creates a
bit of a mess when it has to be removed.
Mike Marlow
>
> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
> that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or an
> inner cup that could be screwed inside the can and would then
> effectively raise the bottom surface of the can.
Back in the days before digital cameras, we used to use collapsable plastic
jars for chemicals used to process film and prints. Same reasons - keep the
volume of air contained inside to a minimum.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net
-MIKE-
Less of a mess than the skin? :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
>In message <4e13b817$1...@dnews.tpgi.com.au>, Rob <mesa...@gmail.com>
>writes
>Yebbut you can't escape to your desktop and lock the door for the
>afternoon.
Sure you can. Put your computer desk in the darkroom.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:30:02 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>> A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
>> value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.
>
>I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
>next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
>down over paint trays and rollers.
>
>Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
>brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
>sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.
What's half an hour of time worth? For a DIY job you can mabee forget
about it - but commercially that buys a pretty decent brush.
For day to day, the cling wrap in the refrigerator works well. And the
same painter, when doing apartments etc - all the same colour - DOES
stretch a brush - uncleaned - that way.
He buys his brushes in bulk from a brush distributor - and his roller
sleeves.
Lew Hodgett
That's why propane torches and dead weight hammers exist.
Haven't had a can of paint skin over in years.
Lew
Man at B&Q
And spin around three times whilst scratching your ear.
Jack Stein
> Dave Liquorice wrote:
>> Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
>> brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
>> sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.
For cleaning brushes, a spinner is mandatory. Something like this:
My method is to use a jar/can just big enough for the brush. Put in a
small amount of solvent and clean out the brush, then spin the brush in
a cardboard box. Dump the small amount of dirty solvent in a different
jar or can. Repeat several times.
Save the old dirty thinner, and next time, all the heavy pigments settle
to the bottom and the old thinner is now clean.. Use the old thinner to
clean next time, only using a bit of new thinner for the last couple of
cleans. This is really easy, uses almost no thinner and really keeps
your brushes nice.
You need 3 cans/jars to do this, one for storing old thinner, one to
clean the brush, and an intermediate one to store the newly dirty
thinner. When done, pour the dirty thinner into the old thinner storage
can. You can use lacquer thinner but lacquer suspends the pigments
forever, while turps or mineral spirits lets the pigments drop to the
bottom, leaving clean thinner.
Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them from
your wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with just water and
the spinner, or throw them away after your wife paints (and never ever
cleans a brush)...
--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com
> Try this technique:
>
> 1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
> brush spinner).
> 2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
> excess.
> 3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.
>
> Done.
>
> For latex or water-based paints, add fabric softener to the water in which
> you swish the brush.
>
>
--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com
stephe...@btinternet.com
Jack Stein <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
>On 7/6/2011 8:21 AM, HeyBub wrote:
>> Dave Liquorice wrote:
>
>>> Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
>>> brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
>>> sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.
>
>For cleaning brushes, a spinner is mandatory. Something like this:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/3dq464p
>
>My method is to use a jar/can just big enough for the brush. Put in a
>small amount of solvent and clean out the brush, then spin the brush in
>a cardboard box. Dump the small amount of dirty solvent in a different
>jar or can. Repeat several times.
That works.
>Save the old dirty thinner, and next time, all the heavy pigments settle
>to the bottom and the old thinner is now clean.. Use the old thinner to
>clean next time, only using a bit of new thinner for the last couple of
>cleans. This is really easy, uses almost no thinner and really keeps
>your brushes nice.
I also save dirty thinners and allow the pigments to settle.
>You need 3 cans/jars to do this, one for storing old thinner, one to
>clean the brush, and an intermediate one to store the newly dirty
>thinner. When done, pour the dirty thinner into the old thinner storage
>can. You can use lacquer thinner but lacquer suspends the pigments
>forever, while turps or mineral spirits lets the pigments drop to the
>bottom, leaving clean thinner.
By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?
However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the
natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.
You have described the above method the wrong way round though,
Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it
lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle
stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the
spring in a natural bristle brush.
>Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them
>from your wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with
>just water and the spinner, or throw them away after your wife
>paints (and never ever cleans a brush)...
>
Stephen.
Steve Turner
> Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them from your
> wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with just water and the spinner,
> or throw them away after your wife paints (and never ever cleans a brush)...
I heard THAT. I've had more than one $20 Purdy brush ruined by the wife...
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Larry W
Dead blow hammers?
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Lew Hodgett
"Larry W" wrote:
> Dead blow hammers?
Plastic non marking hammer with a shot filled head.
Available in bright colors at a low price.
Lew
Larry W
Never heard the term "dead weight hammer" used to describe a "dead blow
hammer" before, just wanted to make sure I knew what you meant.
Lew Hodgett
> Never heard the term "dead weight hammer" used to describe a "dead
> blow
> hammer" before, just wanted to make sure I knew what you meant.
---------------------------
Works for me<G>.
Lew
MuddyMike
For several years I have been adding gas from my blowtorch to the open can
before firmly replacing the lid. Excluding the air in this way means my part
tins of paint are always usable with no more than a thorough stir. Wiping as
much paint of the rims of both the lid and the tin also helps.
Last weekend I used some very old lead based matt black from a gallon tin I
had not opened for at least 7 years. It took a fair bit of stirring but had
no skin and gave a perfect result. I originally bought the tin of paint from
an MOD surplus dealer for a fiver after the RAF had scrapped it for being
out of date, the use by date on the tin was 1990!!!
Mike
Robatoy
> B...@somewhere.com wrote:
> > Air passes through plastic sheet generally less than 4mm thick, but
> > as a gasket I don't think this applies.
>
> > I solve the "air in paint can" problem by filling the can up with
> > glass marbles to take up the space. I used to do this in my darkroom
> > for my photo chemicals, but thats long gone! Glass of course doesn't
> > react with the paint, and they stay on the bottom. A bonus is as you
> > shake the can, they stir the paint! (Hold the lid on...)
>
> > The only problem at the beginning was raiding enough toy stores to
> > get a gallon of marbles! The dollar store was a good find!
>
> You don't need to visit toy stores. Search the web for "marbles wholesale"
>
> Here's one place that sells about 500 5/8" marbles for $28 (500=half-gallon)
> (smaller assortments available).
>
> http://www.landofmarbles.com/marble-sets-and-assortments.html
>
> Apparently the marble business is highly competitive...
People keep losing them.
Jack Stein
> In message<iv4o7h$pa1$1...@dont-email.me>
> Jack Stein<jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
> By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?
I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars
with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says
"lacquer thinner" on it.
> However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the
> natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.
I believe you but I've used it often. I use lacquer thinner a lot for
all sorts of cleaning things. I just know that when I use mineral
spirits or paint thinner, the pigments settle out, but when I use
lacquer thinner, they seem to remain suspended indefinitely.
> You have described the above method the wrong way round though,
> Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it
> lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle
> stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the
> spring in a natural bristle brush.
I guess you are saying to use lacquer for the initial heavy cleaning and
finish up with paint thinner? That would work but Paint thinner works
fine and I can reuse the thinner after the pigments all settle out. I
don't like using used lacquer thinner as it doesn't settle clear, even
after long periods, so I'm throwing out lots of thinner.
I haven't seen or used "turps" since I was a kid. I use paint thinner or
mineral spirits, because that's what I see on the shelves at a
reasonable cost. I don't even know what "Naphtha" is. I've seen the
word used a lot around here, and have looked it up a few times. I still
don't know what it is, and I ain't looking it up again, cause I know
I'll forget anyway. I think Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I
was a young?
--
Jack
You can't Tax your way into Prosperity!
http://jbstein.com
Steve Turner
<rimshot>
Jack Stein
2 points, maybe more...
--
Jack
You're not yourself today, I noticed the improvement immediately!
http://jbstein.com
stephe...@btinternet.com
Jack Stein <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
>On 7/7/2011 2:21 PM, stephe...@btinternet.com wrote:
>> In message<iv4o7h$pa1$1...@dont-email.me>
>> Jack Stein<jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?
>
>I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars
>with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says
>"lacquer thinner" on it.
You must be from the USA.
Your lacquer thinner will be the same as what we in the UK call
Cellulose thinner which is indeed used in vehicle painting or
spraying.
>> However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the
>> natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.
>
>I believe you but I've used it often. I use lacquer thinner a
>lot for all sorts of cleaning things. I just know that when I
>use mineral spirits or paint thinner, the pigments settle out,
>but when I use lacquer thinner, they seem to remain suspended
>indefinitely.
The lacquer/cellulose thinner is a very powerful solvent and has
many uses, I have a five gallon tub of this in my garage.
Mineral spirit is the same as Turps, but in the UK we call it
Turpentine, Turps for short or turps substitute.
>> You have described the above method the wrong way round though,
>> Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it
>> lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle
>> stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the
>> spring in a natural bristle brush.
>
>I guess you are saying to use lacquer for the initial heavy
>cleaning and finish up with paint thinner? That would work but
>Paint thinner works fine and I can reuse the thinner after the
>pigments all settle out. I don't like using used lacquer thinner
>as it doesn't settle clear, even after long periods, so I'm
>throwing out lots of thinner.
You can use either for the initial cleaning but I find the
cellulose or naphtha more effective at removing the paint from a
brush than turps.
The thinner acts the same way as Naphtha both being very volatile,
the mineral spirit however does not clean a paint brush on its own
by simply standing the brush in the solvent, only after thorough
cleaning the brush is it better served being suspended in mineral
spirit which is almost exactly the same as white spirit that I
believe you would call a Stoddard solvent in the USA.
>I haven't seen or used "turps" since I was a kid. I use paint
>thinner or mineral spirits, because that's what I see on the
>shelves at a reasonable cost. I don't even know what "Naphtha"
>is. I've seen the word used a lot around here, and have looked
>it up a few times. I still don't know what it is, and I ain't
>looking it up again, cause I know I'll forget anyway. I think
>Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I was a young?
>
As a reminder from the www,
Naphtha is a term usually restricted to a class of colourless,
volatile, flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixtures. Obtained as one
of the more volatile fractions in the fractional distillation of
petroleum (when it is known as petroleum naphtha), in the
fractional distillation of coal tar (coal-tar naphtha), and in a
similar distillation of wood (wood naphtha), it is used widely as
a solvent for various organic substances, such as fats and rubber,
and in the making of varnish. Because of its dissolving property
it is important as a cleaning fluid; it is also incorporated in
certain laundry soaps. Coal-tar (aromatic) naphthas have greater
solvent power than petroleum (aliphatic) naphthas.
Originally the term naphtha designated a colourless flammable
liquid obtained from the ground in Persia. Later it came to be
applied to a number of other natural liquid substances having
similar properties. Technically, gasoline and kerosene are
considered naphthas.
Stephen.
--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
From the Wirral Peninsula.
Jack Stein
> In message<iv75eo$m74$1...@dont-email.me>
> Jack Stein<jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> On 7/7/2011 2:21 PM, stephe...@btinternet.com wrote:
>>> In message<iv4o7h$pa1$1...@dont-email.me>
>>> Jack Stein<jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?
>>
>> I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars
>> with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says
>> "lacquer thinner" on it.
>
> You must be from the USA.
Yes.
> Your lacquer thinner will be the same as what we in the UK call
> Cellulose thinner which is indeed used in vehicle painting or
> spraying.
The US has a bunch of names for lacquer types too, I don't understand
any of them.
> The lacquer/cellulose thinner is a very powerful solvent and has
> many uses, I have a five gallon tub of this in my garage.
When I was a kid painting cars and such, I always had a 5 gallon can of
the cheap stuff, for cleaning, primer coats and such. A gallon can of
the good, high gloss stuff. I don't have a clue what I get at Home
Depot, I don't paint cars any more.
> Mineral spirit is the same as Turps, but in the UK we call it
> Turpentine, Turps for short or turps substitute.
I think there are technical differences in the US as well, although most
people use the terms interchangeably. I threw in Terps just to be wordy:-)
> The thinner acts the same way as Naphtha both being very volatile,
> the mineral spirit however does not clean a paint brush on its own
> by simply standing the brush in the solvent,
I spin the hell out of it with a spinner. Usually comes pretty clean
first time, nice and clean the second, and really clean the third.
only after thorough
> cleaning the brush is it better served being suspended in mineral
> spirit which is almost exactly the same as white spirit that I
> believe you would call a Stoddard solvent in the USA.
Don't know about Stoddard solvent. After I clean a (good) brush I wrap
it in a cardboard wrapper that came with the brush, or one I made.
I don't even know what "Naphtha"
>> is. I've seen the word used a lot around here, and have looked
>> it up a few times. I still don't know what it is, and I ain't
>> looking it up again, cause I know I'll forget anyway. I think
>> Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I was a young?
>>
> As a reminder from the www,
The following reminder is the reason I quit looking it up. Whole lot of
words that makes it clear as mud to me. Naphtha sounds pretty much like
lacquer thinner to the untrained eye:-) I was right about the soap
however, and it was Fels Naphtha bar soap my mother used to have in the
laundry tubs. I replaced it with GoJo and Lava when I was into cars.
> Naphtha is a term usually restricted to a class of colourless,
> volatile, flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixtures. Obtained as one
> of the more volatile fractions in the fractional distillation of
> petroleum (when it is known as petroleum naphtha), in the
> fractional distillation of coal tar (coal-tar naphtha), and in a
> similar distillation of wood (wood naphtha), it is used widely as
> a solvent for various organic substances, such as fats and rubber,
> and in the making of varnish. Because of its dissolving property
> it is important as a cleaning fluid; it is also incorporated in
> certain laundry soaps. Coal-tar (aromatic) naphthas have greater
> solvent power than petroleum (aliphatic) naphthas.
> Originally the term naphtha designated a colourless flammable
> liquid obtained from the ground in Persia. Later it came to be
> applied to a number of other natural liquid substances having
> similar properties. Technically, gasoline and kerosene are
> considered naphthas.
>
> Stephen.
>
--
Zapp Brannigan
> Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable
> bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints
> and glues that come stored in tins.
>
> It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like
> a
> 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes
> through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered'
> plastic
> bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing?
I do this - but my reason is that the lid is much easier to remove years
later.
Zapp Brannigan
> Owain wrote:
>> On Jul 5, 12:19 pm, "Mrcheerful" wrote:
>>> so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
>>> that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?
>>
>>
>> Owain
>
> problem is that paint separates, so it needs to be something with a solid
> bottom and room to get a stirrer in. What about a tough plastic bag
> inside
> a tin?, you could then seal the bag in close proximity to the surface of
> the
> paint and undo it for stirring and use.
What about paint in a bag, without a tin? Tough blood-bag style pouch
that could be kneaded to mix, and a strong plastic screw-top like a coke
bottle.
Andy Champ
>
> What about paint in a bag, without a tin? Tough blood-bag style pouch
> that could be kneaded to mix, and a strong plastic screw-top like a coke
> bottle.
>
>
Wine box anyone?
Andy