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mk4 golf pas steering leak woes

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Pete

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Mar 26, 2011, 12:02:23 PM3/26/11
to
So I woke up to my mk4 golf 1.6 16v (azd engine) leaking power steering
fluid through the track rod boot which was held on by a cable tie. Called
the aa guy who tried varies clips on it to hold the boot on ended up with a
jubilee clip and that is holding the fluid. He filled up the pas resevoir
and watched for leaks no leaks BUT the boot filled with fluid and is now
bursting (not literally) and he said as soon as i drive it it will burst and
the steering will get heavy. But its safe to drive to the garage 5 minutes
away ?
He said its probly the rack thats given up or or the pas pump but more
likely the rack as its pushing all the fluid one way and not discharging the
excess back to the pas tank.

Having done a search on gsf its £390 odd for the rack and you get £110 back
when you bring the old one back,

He did also say it could also be a fault on the discharge value which should
distribute the pas fluid back to the tank.

Financially this is disasterous for us cost wise, just the part let alone
the labour that may be involved. Is it a couple of hours maybe ? or more ?

Also after some advice on what the problem might be and advice on what to do
?

Quite devasted as its not untill now I realise how important and how much I
rely on my golf.

Forgot to add, he did say the seals are likely to be damaged in the rack as
of this so it will poosibly need to be changed possibly.

Also would you get one from GSF or theres a few on ebay like 330542150530,
250793369533. Theres genuine ones from golfs but I'm unsure which I need or
how old they are, I don't fancy changing it for a used one about the die and
ending up having to pay again for the job to be done.


Chris Bartram

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Mar 26, 2011, 2:27:02 PM3/26/11
to
On 26/03/11 16:02, Pete wrote:
> So I woke up to my mk4 golf 1.6 16v (azd engine) leaking power steering
> fluid through the track rod boot which was held on by a cable tie. Called
> the aa guy who tried varies clips on it to hold the boot on ended up with a
> jubilee clip and that is holding the fluid. He filled up the pas resevoir
> and watched for leaks no leaks BUT the boot filled with fluid and is now
> bursting (not literally) and he said as soon as i drive it it will burst and
> the steering will get heavy. But its safe to drive to the garage 5 minutes
> away ?

Should be OK, but the steering will be very heavy, and you don't want to
run the pump dry.

> He said its probly the rack thats given up or or the pas pump but more
> likely the rack as its pushing all the fluid one way and not discharging the
> excess back to the pas tank.
>
> Having done a search on gsf its £390 odd for the rack and you get £110 back
> when you bring the old one back,
>
> He did also say it could also be a fault on the discharge value which should
> distribute the pas fluid back to the tank.
>
> Financially this is disasterous for us cost wise, just the part let alone
> the labour that may be involved. Is it a couple of hours maybe ? or more ?
>
> Also after some advice on what the problem might be and advice on what to do
> ?
>
> Quite devasted as its not untill now I realise how important and how much I
> rely on my golf.
>
> Forgot to add, he did say the seals are likely to be damaged in the rack as
> of this so it will poosibly need to be changed possibly.
>
> Also would you get one from GSF or theres a few on ebay like 330542150530,
> 250793369533. Theres genuine ones from golfs but I'm unsure which I need or
> how old they are, I don't fancy changing it for a used one about the die and
> ending up having to pay again for the job to be done.
>
>
>
>

It sounds like the rack seals are leaking. The best answer is probably a
new or reconditioned rack.

As for parts, try either GSF (http://www.gsfcarparts.com), Euro Car
Parts (http://www.eurocarparts.com) or TPS
(http://www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk/GenuineParts.php) will all do
OE quality parts.

Pete

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Mar 26, 2011, 3:09:46 PM3/26/11
to

"Chris Bartram" <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote in message
news:imlb5p$qj8$1...@dont-email.me...

> On 26/03/11 16:02, Pete wrote:
>> So I woke up to my mk4 golf 1.6 16v (azd engine) leaking power steering
>> fluid through the track rod boot which was held on by a cable tie. Called
>> the aa guy who tried varies clips on it to hold the boot on ended up with
>> a
>> jubilee clip and that is holding the fluid. He filled up the pas resevoir
>> and watched for leaks no leaks BUT the boot filled with fluid and is now
>> bursting (not literally) and he said as soon as i drive it it will burst
>> and
>> the steering will get heavy. But its safe to drive to the garage 5
>> minutes
>> away ?
>
> Should be OK, but the steering will be very heavy, and you don't want to
> run the pump dry.

Hmm its literally 4/5 mins to the garage, I'm going to limp it there I
think. 5 right turns and a mini roundabout so it won't be much turning. I
think I might call the garage and ask if they can tow me maybe. Not sure
what the procedure is for this situation or even call the aa back out and
explain I tried driving it but its in too difficult or something and get a
tow, I only have roadside cover not sure it this includes towing surely it
does, must check the policy.

After much googling and reading on ukmkivs I think your right, the seals
have given up and filled the power steering boot with fluid.

Gsf seem to be fair enough at £195 for the rack and £195 for surcharge which
you get back.

How much labour time or approx cost would you think is involved in this job
? .. I only ask as I know your pretty well versed with VAGS as I noticed in
your posts. Side note I just invested in a nice vag com lead from ross tech
actually bought from gendan in the uk, very inpressed what you can do with
it. Already used it to log live data of a dodgy maf and align a throttle
body after cleaning.

I did however spot these on ebay what do you reckon worth a go or avoid like
the plague (I'd appreciate your thoughts) :

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250793369533&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and they are accepting offers.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250793369545&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

while a bit cheaper than gsf/euro etc is the time of delivery and
inconvinience of sending the old ones to them. whereas the other 2 it would
be a case of just picking it up and returning old one in store.

what do you think ?

I guess the first thing to do is limp it to the garage and let them have a
look them figure out getting the part to them and then leaving to the hard
work.


Mrcheerful

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Mar 26, 2011, 3:23:31 PM3/26/11
to

it will be fine for a short journey, it takes 3.3 hours to change according
to autodata, so depending on the garage about 90 to 300 quid to fit.


Pete

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Mar 26, 2011, 4:00:10 PM3/26/11
to

"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:33rjp.34695$Xm4....@newsfe10.ams2...

Thanks for that MrC .. my local is about £54+vat for an hour plus £140 for
the rack ... although they may need new rod ends of they cannot get them off
the old rack. Looking quite costly labour wise I'm tempted to do it myself I
have the tools and a trolley jack and stand, but its sat on a tarmax drive
which I'm not sure is the safest to work alson I don't know how to jack the
car up in the middle and where to put the stands, haynes wasn't too clear.

The job looks straight forward. Disconnect the bolt holding the the rack to
steering colum from inside the car, which is just behind the foot rest. Then
its a matter of removing wheels putting it on stands and undoing part of the
subframe total of 8 bolts, although a breaker bar is probly needed for that
I don't have one. Removing the under tray, disconnecting the rod ends, no
doubt corroded to hell so needing a hacksaw or maybe disconnecting it at the
ogther end and leaving in place on the wheel end? might enen aid towards
keeping it all aligned. An basically get anything else out of the way to
drop the pas rack out of the car and then a case of strip it off the
subframe part and re-build new one on to the framing and jacking it up in to
place and bolting it connecting it all back up in reverse, the hydraulics
and pipes.

sounds exhaustive reading it back.... hmmm could be money well spent at a
garage :)

probly an afternoons work of many days lol for me and few hours at a garage.


Mrcheerful

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Mar 26, 2011, 4:17:07 PM3/26/11
to

you will also need an engine supporting system which ideally is from above.
and get the tracking done.
From what you have written I respectfully suggest it would be best to get a
garage to do it.


Pete

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Mar 26, 2011, 4:42:00 PM3/26/11
to

"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:mRrjp.161018$2t5.1...@newsfe24.ams2...

I appreciate your input and realise this is out of the scope of my basic
skill set and when you right things like not sure where to put axle stands I
guess this rings alarm bells :) .. I think your right and shall let the
garage handle this one, for safety and for headache :). As always I value
your input as we you are way more qualified than me. Its the cheap skate in
me than fancies a go but I think it will end in tears and best left to a
qualified mechanic. Sometimes its best to gracefully accept defeat and live
to fight another day when its just a simple sensor to battle with hehe.

I think I might be possibly cheeky with the aa drive the car on to the side
road and call them for a tow, more than likely I will need there help as the
power steering will be goosed and through fear of risking the pump I don't
fancy my chance with a 5 minute drive. As if that fails it will be more on
the cost and not too much effort for them to tow me. Although not cheeky I
guess as thats what I pay them for when my never failed before pride and joy
acts up it might need a tow.

Time to go curse at the golf through the window :)

Thanks kindly as always Chris and Mrc :)

Chris Bartram

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Mar 27, 2011, 4:42:17 PM3/27/11
to

I got mine from Gendan too. VCDS is great: worth every penny. No idea on
cost, but I see the ever helpful MrC has answered :-).

> I did however spot these on ebay what do you reckon worth a go or avoid like
> the plague (I'd appreciate your thoughts) :
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250793369533&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
>
> and they are accepting offers.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250793369545&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
>
> while a bit cheaper than gsf/euro etc is the time of delivery and
> inconvinience of sending the old ones to them. whereas the other 2 it would
> be a case of just picking it up and returning old one in store.
>
> what do you think ?
>

Personally, I'd do GSF/Euro: they're established and you won't have
warranty issues.

> I guess the first thing to do is limp it to the garage and let them have a
> look them figure out getting the part to them and then leaving to the hard
> work.
>
>

I would. I don't know how hard it is, but there's bound to be a fair bit
of dismantling and access will be tricky at home.

Pete

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Mar 28, 2011, 6:31:19 AM3/28/11
to

"Chris Bartram" <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote in message
news:imo7fm$sns$1...@dont-email.me...

Limped the car in to the garage this morning. He confirmed its the steering
rack but the mk4 golf ones are not easily serviceable, it would need a
replacement. He did say there are places that sell recon ones with new seal
for cheaper but I need the car back as soon as I can.

Its £234 labour with vat and the rack is £200 from gsf. That includes
tracking, fluid. But he said its anything goes wrong like new bolts needed
or other broken parts he'd call me.

So its quite an expensive repair. As he's full he has it booked in for
Thursday unless he gets any space before he will call me.

so £434 seems to be a fair price considering the other quotes I received
from other local garages.

Its funny how you feel when you don't have the luxary of use of the car,
quote disabling.


Pete

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Mar 29, 2011, 12:40:22 PM3/29/11
to

"Chris Bartram" <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote in message
news:imo7fm$sns$1...@dont-email.me...

On driving to the to the garage I didn't really notice any hassles with the
steering ? felt normal. I was wondering if it would pass an MOT like this ?
(hypothetically, am having the work done anyhoo) was just wondering ... as
it wasn't too bad, I was expecting more of a wrestle.

I guess its basically turned in to a car with no power steering like the
good ole' days.

My wife drives my car and constantly bashes approaching full lock and on
full lock the ppoint of no more physical turns could this have dmagaed it ?
or is this more of wear and tear of seals problem.

The garage offered me a deal an said it would be £180 inc vat / labour if I
could leave the car with them as they are swamped and they would have it
done b Thursday 5.30 and the rack was £140. I said no problem as I didn't
need to car till the weekend. They're very good there have been doing all
the cars hard jobs for the last 8 years now. So all in all it has cost
£319.89 which doesn't seem bad for replacing a power steering rack ? (based
in south England). The garage said its a 2 hour job which works out to 90 an
hour. But they charge 54 + vat an hour so erm.. seems odd ? I wonder if they
priced it up on the job not the hours ? I'll double check.


Mrcheerful

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Mar 29, 2011, 1:35:38 PM3/29/11
to

power steering leakage is an mot fail. hitting full lock by turning the
wheel should not damage anything. If it has lost all its fluid it will just
be a bit heavier at parking speeds, rolling along you would not notice.
having the system full of fluid but no pump working gives really heavy
steering.


Chris Whelan

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Mar 29, 2011, 1:36:19 PM3/29/11
to
On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 17:40:22 +0100, Pete wrote:

[...]



> On driving to the to the garage I didn't really notice any hassles with
> the steering ? felt normal. I was wondering if it would pass an MOT like
> this ? (hypothetically, am having the work done anyhoo) was just
> wondering ... as it wasn't too bad, I was expecting more of a wrestle.

No.

Reason for rejection:

"Power steering malfunctioning or inoperative or evidence that power
assistance has been removed or disconnected when it is known that power
steering is standard on the vehicle"

http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s02000301.htm

> I guess its basically turned in to a car with no power steering like the
> good ole' days.
>
> My wife drives my car and constantly bashes approaching full lock and on
> full lock the ppoint of no more physical turns could this have dmagaed
> it ? or is this more of wear and tear of seals problem.
>
> The garage offered me a deal an said it would be £180 inc vat / labour
> if I could leave the car with them as they are swamped and they would
> have it done b Thursday 5.30 and the rack was £140. I said no problem as
> I didn't need to car till the weekend. They're very good there have been
> doing all the cars hard jobs for the last 8 years now. So all in all it
> has cost £319.89 which doesn't seem bad for replacing a power steering
> rack ? (based in south England). The garage said its a 2 hour job which
> works out to 90 an hour. But they charge 54 + vat an hour so erm.. seems
> odd ? I wonder if they priced it up on the job not the hours ? I'll
> double check.

Autodata gives 3.4 hours for this job.

(It would help others help you if you would be kind enough to snip excess
text from posts as I have done; TIA.)

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.

Adrian

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Mar 29, 2011, 1:54:02 PM3/29/11
to
Chris Whelan <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

> Reason for rejection:
>
> "Power steering ... disconnected when it is known that power


> steering is standard on the vehicle"

WTF?

That is taking the piss. If I want to remove the PAS, I want to damn well
remove it.

Chris Whelan

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Mar 29, 2011, 2:23:22 PM3/29/11
to

You can.

As long as you don't want it to pass an MOT.

Adrian

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Mar 29, 2011, 2:29:59 PM3/29/11
to
Chris Whelan <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

>>> Reason for rejection:
>>>
>>> "Power steering ... disconnected when it is known that power steering
>>> is standard on the vehicle"

>> WTF?
>>
>> That is taking the piss. If I want to remove the PAS, I want to damn
>> well remove it.

> You can.
>
> As long as you don't want it to pass an MOT.

Well, quite.

I mean - wtf?

I'm normally the one defending the MOT rules. But that's a piss-take. So
long as I - the driver - don't find the steering too heavy, why shouldn't
it pass?

For example - the Saab parked outside. RHD 900s always had PAS, aiui, but
there were some early cack-handers without, and plenty of 99s. If I found
a rack that fitted, or if non-assisted 99 racks fit (I don't know if they
do) and I preferred the feel of the unassisted (say, for a road-legal
trackday car), why SHOULDN'T it pass?

Tim

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Mar 29, 2011, 5:29:02 PM3/29/11
to

I would guess that replacing the rack with a non-assisted one should pass
as the power steering system isn't disconnected, it's not there.
Logically speaking of course, not based on any experience.

Tim

Adrian

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Mar 29, 2011, 5:43:26 PM3/29/11
to
Tim <timdow...@yahoo.co.uk> gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying:

>> For example - the Saab parked outside. RHD 900s always had PAS, aiui,


>> but there were some early cack-handers without, and plenty of 99s. If I
>> found a rack that fitted, or if non-assisted 99 racks fit (I don't know
>> if they do) and I preferred the feel of the unassisted (say, for a
>> road-legal trackday car), why SHOULDN'T it pass?

> I would guess that replacing the rack with a non-assisted one should
> pass as the power steering system isn't disconnected, it's not there.
> Logically speaking of course, not based on any experience.

"when it is known that power steering is standard on the vehicle"

Tim Downie

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Mar 30, 2011, 7:33:57 AM3/30/11
to

Probably a good reason for it then. ;-) I would guess that non-assisted
models may well have different steering geometry to assisted models and just
changing the rack may leave you with excessively heavy steering.

Tim

Mrcheerful

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Mar 30, 2011, 8:13:13 AM3/30/11
to

I was surprised to find that ordinary old fiesta classic has different
bottom ball joint depending upon power steering or not, quite why I have no
idea, but they are definitely different, the pin is about 2mm bigger on the
PS type, which is not that easy to spot when you try and fit the wrong type
!!!


Adrian

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Mar 30, 2011, 8:15:00 AM3/30/11
to
"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying:

> I was surprised to find that ordinary old fiesta classic has different


> bottom ball joint depending upon power steering or not, quite why I have
> no idea, but they are definitely different, the pin is about 2mm bigger
> on the PS type, which is not that easy to spot when you try and fit the
> wrong type !!!

Probably because of the greater loads which can be placed on 'em by more
easily and quickly twirling from lock-to-lock whilst the car's stationary.

Pete

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Mar 30, 2011, 3:24:16 PM3/30/11
to

"Tim" <timdow...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1720863463323126743.06337...@news.eternal-september.org...

Aplogies for post here but start of thread has disappeared.

Update: Garage have it all stripped down and about to drop the old rack, BUT
the steering colum has been welded on to the rack!!! for some daft reason so
they can't drop it and need a new colum as they can't break the weld. A new
colum is £303 with vat from tps. The car is currently on a ramp so I said no
way thats too much and have been given till tommorow to find a colum cheaper
for fitting, then he said they will bill me more for ramp time my car is
taking up :(

I have found one for £90 from a member on ukmkivs and is sending tommorow
and will get to me on Friday as its next day delivery.

Getting a bit frustrated with this as its going pearshaped, through no ones
fault but the person who welded the colum to rack when there is a 13mm ut
and bolt attachement!

Thought I'd share :(

Wish I had scraped the car at this cost! lol.

Mrcheerful

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Mar 30, 2011, 4:12:31 PM3/30/11
to

unlucky, why anyone would do that is beyond me. what else has been bodged
would be my next worry. Presumably the weld is at the rack end of the
coupling? if so then it should be possible to cut it off and leave the
coupling mostly intact and re-usable. The rack of course may not be
acceptable as exchange.


Duncan Wood

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Mar 30, 2011, 9:57:28 PM3/30/11
to
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 21:12:31 +0100, Mrcheerful <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk>
wrote:

Look on the bright side, finding ou by being unable to get it off is
infinitely preferable to finding out by it cracking. It should have been
failed by whoever MOT'd it though. 2.2.d.d

Pete

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Mar 31, 2011, 10:04:00 AM3/31/11
to

"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:d9Mkp.135$_c3...@newsfe26.ams2...

It unknown to them why this was done aswell, its stupid was his words. he
showed me the weld, its not on the actual rack it just on the steering
column its at the bottom of the steering column on the part thats moves up
and down that has been welded in place so it doesn't move when it suppose to
move.

He said the rack will come off no problem with out damage which is a relief
as its part of the deal for it to be recon'd.

Pete

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Mar 31, 2011, 10:07:32 AM3/31/11
to

"Duncan Wood" <nntp...@dmx512.co.uk> wrote in message
news:op.vs6qd...@lucy.mshome.net...

I reckon so when you put it like that. Whats not so funny is its been MOT'd
with the same garage for the last 5 years! and one just recently. I brought
it up and he laughed and said if it was seen its a failre, but as its
covered by cowling if not seen and they are not allowed to remove parts to
look at others.

For some reason I've started getting a bad feeling about this garage now as
in did they weld it for reasons of extorting more money out of me or was it
actually like that.

Aparantly the part welded is the part that moves up and down with natural
movement on the car on the bottom bit of the steering column.

I have no reason to doubt them and they've done odds and sods on it in the
past with no troubles.

Mrcheerful

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Mar 31, 2011, 10:32:11 AM3/31/11
to

ah, you mean the collapsible part of the column has been welded up.
Sometimes that gets play that gets an mot fail, a bodger might weld it up as
a quick fix.


Duncan Wood

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Mar 31, 2011, 1:56:49 PM3/31/11
to

That's true, & you wouldn't have any reason to suspect it.

> For some reason I've started getting a bad feeling about this garage now
> as
> in did they weld it for reasons of extorting more money out of me or was
> it
> actually like that.
>

Hardly worth it.

> Aparantly the part welded is the part that moves up and down with natural
> movement on the car on the bottom bit of the steering column.
>

They go sloppy.

> I have no reason to doubt them and they've done odds and sods on it in
> the
> past with no troubles.
>
>
>

I'd suspect the previous owner.

Pete

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Apr 2, 2011, 6:14:34 AM4/2/11
to

"Duncan Wood" <nntp...@dmx512.co.uk> wrote in message
news:op.vs7yszqrhaghkf@lucy...

Yeah your right, I was just narked off with all the problems, its not the
garages fault, previous owner indeed. They've been good about it all and
kept costs down as much as possible.

I have now gotten the car back, but when I got in the air bag light was on,
I went back in and he said come back this morning as the machines at the
back with all cars on ramps in front of it, to put it on the machine which I
did. He couldn't clear the fault and the code is a 0588 something to do with
the igniter on the drivers airbag. He said it looks like a wiring issue and
they would have to strip it all down again and find out whats wrong, he said
they can be fiddly and connectors can come off when it all goes back
together some process about twisting or something. So he booked it in on
Monday to do this and has assured me they will fix it on Monday and that
should be it. All at cost to them I might add as I've paid for a job once,
so not paying again.

Its not particular good form to let me drive my car home with an airbag
light on imho. As if I was in an accident they bag would not be functioning
to go off :-/ .. The garage is only manned with saturday staff to do mainly
tyres etc so they couldn't do it today. Not really that happy about this
current problem and the amount of repeat trips back.

Pete

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Apr 2, 2011, 6:18:56 AM4/2/11
to

"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:Qf0lp.2324$9z4...@newsfe14.ams2...

Hey MrC just posted back above somewhere to Duncan with some more bad news
about this job lol it does it worse lol..

Thats the part, it definitely a bodge and a bad one, its collapsible for a
reason I guess. So at least I now know I have a normal column in there now
doing the job properly.

I wanted to ask you something you know the boots on the power steering rack,
whats the standard fixing for those ? it had cable ties when it went in and
the new rack they have used the same ? is this ok or does it need a metal
one ?

The AA guy that came out to me said it should be metal as thats possibly the
reason it failed as weathering got in to the rack there and weatehred the
seals and ball joint ?

The garage said 99% of cars they do has cable ties and thats what they
always use without issue.

Just wodnering you professional opinion ?

Thanks


Mrcheerful

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Apr 2, 2011, 9:42:38 AM4/2/11
to

original equipment is metal clips. Pattern stuff has cable ties, they are
perfectly adequate for the job and I do not believe they are likely to have
influenced the original failure, a failed boot would have, if it was not
spotted early enough.


Duncan Wood

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Apr 2, 2011, 3:12:40 PM4/2/11
to

Normally it's because somebody's turned the ignition on with the bag
disconnected, but that's easily cleared with the computer, but knocking
the connecter loose or not refitting the clockspring properly's really
easy when you've got the column out.

Pete

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Apr 2, 2011, 3:31:34 PM4/2/11
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"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:sJFlp.1395$bT6...@newsfe05.ams2...

Ahhh fair play. Basically I checked the boots for some reason and noticed
they wee twisted up :/ .. took it back aparantly the mechanic twisted it up
when he did the tracking. Which would have lead to it breaking pretty soon
and the ball joint would have been exposed to weathering.

Also to note today pressed the horn to alert my presence as someone failed
to see me and nothing! obviously something wrong there as well. Not
convinved they put it all back together very well.

Tomorow I'll check the indicaters and wipers etc to see what else is not
working and they can get on it on monday.

Not sure if I'm getting picky here ? but this is getting silly.

Chris Bartram

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Apr 2, 2011, 3:38:35 PM4/2/11
to
On 02/04/11 20:31, Pete wrote:

> Also to note today pressed the horn to alert my presence as someone failed
> to see me and nothing! obviously something wrong there as well. Not
> convinved they put it all back together very well.
>
> Tomorow I'll check the indicaters and wipers etc to see what else is not
> working and they can get on it on monday.
>
> Not sure if I'm getting picky here ? but this is getting silly.
>
>
>

With that and the airbag they could have missed an earth on the column.

Pete

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Apr 2, 2011, 3:49:58 PM4/2/11
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"Duncan Wood" <nnt...@dmx512.co.uk> wrote in message
news:op.vtbrn...@duncan-tosh.cable.virginmedia.net...

I suggested that to them today and he said no its a wiring problem from the
fault code its showing. Which was 00588 I think he said. They tried clearing
it with the computer but it wouldn't clear either. I guess somethings not
connected up or popped off like you said above. He said its not a dfficult
fix, but timely as they have to strip it all down again to check whats up.

Also the horn is not working! went to use it today as a matter of safety and
nothing.

The car is parked up now till I get it all sorted as a matter of safety
really, not sure if that makes me sound picky but hey ho. No air bag or horn
in my eyes is not good, considering the family are in the car mostly.

I understand they can be fiddly reconnecting airbags from what I read so no
major, although I took the car in before 9 this morning to get looked at on
their diagnostics and they were done in 5 minutes with that and about 45
minutes sorting out the twisted boots on the steering rack which were
twisted up when the mechanic did the tracking, glad I looked.

Even though he said its only saturday staff in its the same guys there as in
the week lol ... I think they didn't want to comit to the job as they shut
at one.. he said it would take about an hour to strip it down and find the
problem and put it all back together, approximately 2 hours. It could of
been done but he said Saturdays are always busy with people coming in for
tyres.... so next week it is.

I think I'll stick to my specilist at least I know the job is done first
time even if I pay a little more. I'm not sure if I being a little over
touchy but problems like this irritate me and no doubt them but hey ho ...


Pete

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Apr 2, 2011, 3:52:11 PM4/2/11
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"Chris Bartram" <ne...@delete-me.piglet-net.net> wrote in message
news:in7tvs$ivk$1...@dont-email.me...

Ahhh I hope they figure it out, from a bit of reading on ukmkivs it could
also be a damaged slip ring, or incorrectly fitted slip ring. No doubt some
thing simple as an earth.


Pete

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Apr 3, 2011, 8:05:18 AM4/3/11
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"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:sJFlp.1395$bT6...@newsfe05.ams2...

> Pete wrote:
>> "Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
<snip>

>> The AA guy that came out to me said it should be metal as thats
>> possibly the reason it failed as weathering got in to the rack there
>> and weatehred the seals and ball joint ?
>>
>> The garage said 99% of cars they do has cable ties and thats what they
>> always use without issue.
>>
>> Just wodnering you professional opinion ?
>>
>> Thanks
>
> original equipment is metal clips. Pattern stuff has cable ties, they are
> perfectly adequate for the job and I do not believe they are likely to
> have influenced the original failure, a failed boot would have, if it was
> not spotted early enough.
>

A new day a new issue noticed! .. Okies on full right lock there is a
grinding sound .. the problem was not there before the work was carried out
but is there now, is this something related to the work they have done ? ..
I have the feeling they will say its nothing to do with them..

On left lock there is no issue, just on full right lock, noticeably you feel
on left lock a point where you cannot turn any more like a stop a slight
bump, on right lock there is not feel like this more a feel of you can keep
turning untill on full right lock which feels could go further if there was
no aparant grinding noise ?

I have taking a picture of the driveshaft area and not sure if this is the
area of concern but I'm not mechanically edcuated enough to know whats up ?

http://tinyurl.com/3fuk9ab

http://tinyurl.com/43cs9gq

http://tinyurl.com/3fqhawr

I hope the pictures can help.

Appreciate some feedback or likely causes for this new problem.

Thanks for the help so far all.


Mrcheerful

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Apr 3, 2011, 4:27:58 PM4/3/11
to

if the noise occurs when the vehicle is moving, then is a tyre touching the
body? If so then the rack is not correctly set up.


Pete

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Apr 4, 2011, 4:39:17 AM4/4/11
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"Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pL4mp.5464$cx....@newsfe24.ams2...

Hi MrC,

Yeah its when moving, although I hadn't tried it when stationary.

I've contacted the garage this morning to tell them and they said they will
have a look at it this afternoon along with the other problems.

I'll keep you posted on how it goes.


Pete

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Apr 5, 2011, 5:59:04 PM4/5/11
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"Mrcheerful" wrote in message news:pL4mp.5464$cx....@newsfe24.ams2...

>>

Right a little update. Basically the guy that did it was just a cover
mechanic as they hire temp people in when they are swamped. No excuse.

The boss chappy was working on my car and basically said he buggered up the
job.

The right wheel was out by half a turn! hence the rubbing/grinding noise.

Then they are going to re-track the tracking..

As for the air bag they are unsure yet and so far have been unable to reset
it. He said its difficult figuring out a fault when someone else has been
doing it/ buggering it up

He said your right to be pissed off as its taking the biscuit now, this is
not how a garage should run or do a job, piss poor.

Last thing I have done there. And if anyone asks I'd be happy to tell them
my experience and let them decide if they want to take the risk.

I shall be using my usual specialist next time, maybe more money but at
least they will do the job right first time as they have always done.

Hopefully the car should be ready tomorow. The boss whos pretty talented
from what I can see is on the job so hopefully it will be done.

I get the impression he will be having words with the mechanic who mucked
the job up.

I did request that the whole job be checked over. As my confidence in them
is pretty low.

Bit narked off now to be honest so apologies if it sounds like I'm moaning
<g>

Mrcheerful

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Apr 5, 2011, 7:13:45 PM4/5/11
to

alright, I have to ask, why did you not go to your regular place?

From my own point of view, I never try to play down the expense of doing a
good job, I don't have to. So many people have been turned over by trying
to get a cheap job it is amazing to me that anyone tries when they already
know somewhere reliable. As for somewhere that uses 'unknown quality'
mechanics............. That smacks of Quik-Fit. Rant over.


Pete

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Apr 6, 2011, 6:57:17 AM4/6/11
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"Mrcheerful" wrote in message news:NmNmp.25976$jo4....@newsfe03.ams2...


Fair point. When I initially called the AA (only basic cover) he said it
won't be driveable very far, I said there's a garage 4/5 mins away he said
that's all it would make. So going on his advice I limped to this place.

But I did notice it wasn't that bad driving, but thought he's way more
qualified than me to know what's safe, so took his advice. The specialist I
use is 16 odd miles away (we live out in the sticks so nothing is usually
near, he didn't think it could make it anywhere near that far so I opted for
the local garage

Cost was not an issue, I just had no way of getting it anywhere safely
according to what the AA guy said.

Although this local place do my MOT's and odds and sods, never had a issue
with them.

Apparently the mechanic who did it used to work there but sometimes works
part now when they need extra help.. so presumably they know and trust him

I guess next time i should get it towed to my usual place.

A call to them this morning wasn't to encouraging, when I went in Monday
they were still trying to find the airbag fault, god knows what they did on
it yesterday sounds like nothing to be honest, today he said its on the
tracking machine now, and they think its a broken wire causing the air bag
fault but have yet to fix it. He said it should be ok to pick up tomorow if
somethings wrong he will call me.

This place is not known for shoddy work, its a small town so reputation
means a lot, we know lots of people who use them with only kind words to
say. But my experience on this occasion is Mickey mouse.

I have this nagging feeling they are going to call me tell such such is
broken and I'll have to pay or some crap along those lines.

Turned out to be a headache for me daily dealing with them.

If its not done by tomorrow I'll ask them to stop work and arrange for it to
be transported to my specialist, to re-do the entire job as I have no faith
they have done it correctly tbh.


I appreciate your rant because it is bloody dismal! ... its like when will
this end. Well if its not done by tomorow it will be transported off and
that will put an end in dealing with them any further.

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