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Volvo V40 charging issues
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Alan Deane
Feb 16, 2012, 12:08:25 PM2/16/12
to
Following the thread on the Focus parasitic drain it prompted me to post
about a charging issue with my 1998 Volvo V40 T4.
Symptoms:
The battery won't start the car after standing for more than 3 or so days.
Changed:
Battery & Alternator - no improvement!
Investigation:
Before the alternator was changed I noticed that the charge voltage with
the engine running was OK (but not great) on first start-up (about
13.4v) but it gradually decreased to about 12.6v over 20 minutes or so.
Battery voltage the morning after running is usually about 12.4v
I've fitted a re-con alternator - but the fault is EXACTLY the same!
I believe the fault is because the battery isn't getting fully charged
by the alternator so the standby time is reduced over what it should be.
If I charge the battery overnight with a charger the voltage increases
as expected, after leaving off charge for several hours is still acceptable.
I don't think the car has any clever charge controller (but could be wrong?)
By comparison a friend's S40 2.0 (different engine) shows a charge
voltage of over 14v.
I've checked the standby current draw a while ago, I can't remember what
the figure was exactly, but not especially high. Under 100ma from memory.
Any ideas? Especially why the charge voltage drops once the car has been
running for a while? If I load up the electrical system at this point
with lights, fan and rear screen on the voltage dips to under 12v.
about a charging issue with my 1998 Volvo V40 T4.
Symptoms:
The battery won't start the car after standing for more than 3 or so days.
Changed:
Battery & Alternator - no improvement!
Investigation:
Before the alternator was changed I noticed that the charge voltage with
the engine running was OK (but not great) on first start-up (about
13.4v) but it gradually decreased to about 12.6v over 20 minutes or so.
Battery voltage the morning after running is usually about 12.4v
I've fitted a re-con alternator - but the fault is EXACTLY the same!
I believe the fault is because the battery isn't getting fully charged
by the alternator so the standby time is reduced over what it should be.
If I charge the battery overnight with a charger the voltage increases
as expected, after leaving off charge for several hours is still acceptable.
I don't think the car has any clever charge controller (but could be wrong?)
By comparison a friend's S40 2.0 (different engine) shows a charge
voltage of over 14v.
I've checked the standby current draw a while ago, I can't remember what
the figure was exactly, but not especially high. Under 100ma from memory.
Any ideas? Especially why the charge voltage drops once the car has been
running for a while? If I load up the electrical system at this point
with lights, fan and rear screen on the voltage dips to under 12v.
Duncan Wood
Feb 16, 2012, 1:22:37 PM2/16/12
to
On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 17:08:25 -0000, Alan Deane <alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk>
wrote:
Alternator earth and ignition feed to the alternator are probably worth
checking 1st. Followed by the possibility you've got a 2nd duff alternator.
wrote:
checking 1st. Followed by the possibility you've got a 2nd duff alternator.
Dave Plowman (News)
Feb 16, 2012, 2:24:35 PM2/16/12
to
In article <78356$4f3d3809$5213010d$43...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
I'd also measure for voltage drop in the circuits.
Connect the DVM from alternator output to battery positive and check the
voltage with the engine running. Should be less than 0.2v. Do the same
between alternator body and battery ground terminal.
With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
--
*A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Alan Deane <alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
> Before the alternator was changed I noticed that the charge voltage with
> the engine running was OK (but not great) on first start-up (about
> 13.4v) but it gradually decreased to about 12.6v over 20 minutes or so.
> Battery voltage the morning after running is usually about 12.4v
> I've fitted a re-con alternator - but the fault is EXACTLY the same!
Are you certain the battery is ok? Be worth having it checked.
> Before the alternator was changed I noticed that the charge voltage with
> the engine running was OK (but not great) on first start-up (about
> 13.4v) but it gradually decreased to about 12.6v over 20 minutes or so.
> Battery voltage the morning after running is usually about 12.4v
> I've fitted a re-con alternator - but the fault is EXACTLY the same!
I'd also measure for voltage drop in the circuits.
Connect the DVM from alternator output to battery positive and check the
voltage with the engine running. Should be less than 0.2v. Do the same
between alternator body and battery ground terminal.
With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
--
*A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Mrcheerful
Feb 16, 2012, 2:39:31 PM2/16/12
to
out the battery first. Then wiring, then get the alternator tested off the
car.
IIRC there was a one way clutch that can fail on the alternator of some
volvos, which might mean the alternator is not getting enough of a spin.
Mike
Feb 16, 2012, 3:26:45 PM2/16/12
to
On 16/02/2012 19:39, Mrcheerful wrote:
.
>
> the battery should show 12.8 or very close to it when fully charged, check
> out the battery first. Then wiring, then get the alternator tested off the
> car.
>
Do modern alternators all have regulators built in or is there any
.
>
> the battery should show 12.8 or very close to it when fully charged, check
> out the battery first. Then wiring, then get the alternator tested off the
> car.
>
possibility of it being external?
Mrcheerful
Feb 16, 2012, 3:30:23 PM2/16/12
to
something old and japanese, a truck or 4x4. Do you have a working
alternator charge light? if that fails it won't charge.
Mike
Feb 16, 2012, 3:40:53 PM2/16/12
to
traced to the wire from the 'F' connector on the alternator shorting to
deck in the loom. Obviously this wouldn't apply to one with a built in
regulator.
Alan Deane
Feb 16, 2012, 5:43:40 PM2/16/12
to
tried running a jump lead between the engine and battery negative - no
change.
Ignition feed (from dash light I assume you mean?) not checked yet - so
worth a go, thanks.
Alan Deane
Feb 16, 2012, 5:46:48 PM2/16/12
to
On 16/02/2012 19:24, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article<78356$4f3d3809$5213010d$43...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
> Alan Deane<alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
>> Before the alternator was changed I noticed that the charge voltage with
>> the engine running was OK (but not great) on first start-up (about
>> 13.4v) but it gradually decreased to about 12.6v over 20 minutes or so.
>> Battery voltage the morning after running is usually about 12.4v
>
>> I've fitted a re-con alternator - but the fault is EXACTLY the same!
>
> Are you certain the battery is ok? Be worth having it checked.
I think so - a battery failed in a year or so and was replaced under
> In article<78356$4f3d3809$5213010d$43...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
> Alan Deane<alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
>> Before the alternator was changed I noticed that the charge voltage with
>> the engine running was OK (but not great) on first start-up (about
>> 13.4v) but it gradually decreased to about 12.6v over 20 minutes or so.
>> Battery voltage the morning after running is usually about 12.4v
>
>> I've fitted a re-con alternator - but the fault is EXACTLY the same!
>
> Are you certain the battery is ok? Be worth having it checked.
warranty - with a warning if it happens again in a similar time that the
car is likely to be the cause. (And it probably is!)
> I'd also measure for voltage drop in the circuits.
>
> Connect the DVM from alternator output to battery positive and check the
> voltage with the engine running. Should be less than 0.2v. Do the same
> between alternator body and battery ground terminal.
Will test at the weekend...
>
> Connect the DVM from alternator output to battery positive and check the
> voltage with the engine running. Should be less than 0.2v. Do the same
> between alternator body and battery ground terminal.
> With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
> electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
I don't think I've ever seen that high on this car.
> electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
Alan Deane
Feb 16, 2012, 5:52:13 PM2/16/12
to
On 16/02/2012 19:39, Mrcheerful wrote:
> Alan Deane wrote:
>> Following the thread on the Focus parasitic drain it prompted me to
>> post about a charging issue with my 1998 Volvo V40 T4.
>>
>> Symptoms:
>> The battery won't start the car after standing for more than 3 or so
>> days.
>> Changed:
>> Battery& Alternator - no improvement!
>> Following the thread on the Focus parasitic drain it prompted me to
>> post about a charging issue with my 1998 Volvo V40 T4.
>>
>> Symptoms:
>> The battery won't start the car after standing for more than 3 or so
>> days.
>> Changed:
seized meaning no one-way action. Result noisy drumming sound from
drive-belt at idle speed.
I don't think the V40 has one, but will check.
I'll re-check battery voltage after charging.
The dash charge-light works as expected, but I guess it could be
resistive causing strange results. Will check further.
Dave Plowman (News)
Feb 16, 2012, 6:23:05 PM2/16/12
to
In article <615da$4f3d8759$5213010d$12...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
It's the same on more or less any car.
--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery? *
--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery? *
Rob
Feb 16, 2012, 6:51:09 PM2/16/12
to
somewhere near the battery - this maybe have dirty/corrosion connections.
Duncan Wood
Feb 16, 2012, 8:28:35 PM2/16/12
to
On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 22:43:40 -0000, Alan Deane <alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk>
It's worthing checking it's actually earthed to the engine though,
sommetimes you can find enough corrosion in the bushings to give you a
small volt drop.
sommetimes you can find enough corrosion in the bushings to give you a
small volt drop.
Alan Deane
Feb 17, 2012, 3:16:26 AM2/17/12
to
On 16/02/2012 23:23, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article<615da$4f3d8759$5213010d$12...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
> Alan Deane<alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
>>> With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
>>> electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
>
>> I don't think I've ever seen that high on this car.
>
> It's the same on more or less any car.
>
I agree it should be.
> In article<615da$4f3d8759$5213010d$12...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
> Alan Deane<alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
>>> With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
>>> electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
>
>> I don't think I've ever seen that high on this car.
>
> It's the same on more or less any car.
>
I didn't have a reason to look at the charge voltage on this car until
this fault occurred - so while it should be at least 13.8v I've never
seen it that high.
Hopefully I will again soon!
Dave Plowman (News)
Feb 17, 2012, 5:26:09 AM2/17/12
to
In article <op.v9sud...@duncan-tosh.cable.virginmedia.net>,
guessing.
--
*In "Casablanca", Humphrey Bogart never said "Play it again, Sam" *
Duncan Wood <nnt...@dmx512.co.uk> wrote:
> > Alternator earth is the same as the engine earth, which is fine.
> It's worthing checking it's actually earthed to the engine though,
> sommetimes you can find enough corrosion in the bushings to give you a
> small volt drop.
That's why it's worth doing a voltage drop check as I described. Saves any
> > Alternator earth is the same as the engine earth, which is fine.
> It's worthing checking it's actually earthed to the engine though,
> sommetimes you can find enough corrosion in the bushings to give you a
> small volt drop.
guessing.
--
*In "Casablanca", Humphrey Bogart never said "Play it again, Sam" *
Mrcheerful
Feb 17, 2012, 7:17:03 AM2/17/12
to
each, so if you count the wires and get the colours it may help.
One has one fuse, one two and one three, including a 120 amp fuse on the
output! One has an additional module that is shown as separate. etc.
Gordon H
Feb 17, 2012, 8:10:27 AM2/17/12
to
In message <5262a59...@davenoise.co.uk>, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> writes
--
Gordon H
Remove "invalid" to reply
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> writes
>In article <615da$4f3d8759$5213010d$12...@usenext.xennanews.com>,
> Alan Deane <alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
>> > With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
>> > electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
>
>> I don't think I've ever seen that high on this car.
>
>It's the same on more or less any car.
>
Only with the engine running, & alternator charging, surely?
> Alan Deane <alz_...@ajdeane.co.uk> wrote:
>> > With a good battery fully charged and no load other than the engine
>> > electrics you should see 13.8 volts.
>
>> I don't think I've ever seen that high on this car.
>
>It's the same on more or less any car.
>
--
Gordon H
Remove "invalid" to reply
TTT
Feb 17, 2012, 11:00:22 AM2/17/12
to
I had a car with some strange charging habits. After three alternators I
eventually worked out it was some tracking across the wiring loom plug which
went into the alternator. It was really hard to see, but a new plug fixed
the issue.
eventually worked out it was some tracking across the wiring loom plug which
went into the alternator. It was really hard to see, but a new plug fixed
the issue.
Alan Deane
Feb 20, 2012, 5:16:31 AM2/20/12
to
> autodata shows three different alternator setups with different wiring for
> each, so if you count the wires and get the colours it may help.
> One has one fuse, one two and one three, including a 120 amp fuse on the
> output! One has an additional module that is shown as separate. etc.
I'm not with the car today so can't check wires until tonight, but it
would be useful to know how the system *should* work.
(I can get the VIN from the paperwork, which I do have now!)
Mrcheerful
Feb 20, 2012, 5:24:36 AM2/20/12
to
sorry.
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