Automatic gearbox woes
Adam Lipscombe
I have a Mazda MPV import - a "Bongo Friendee". Its got a 2.5 diesel with
4wd coupled via an 4 speed automatic box. The auto box has started playing
up.
The very first sign of trouble was when I selected "R" and nothing
happened - no drive at all. The van was warm, so I let it cool down for a
couple of hours and retried. Initially, the same thing happened then there
was a clunk from the 'box and it worked.
This symptom hasnt reocurred however.
Now, the symtoms are these:
When cold:
1. The box "grabs" when D is selected - i.e. the van lurches forward
alarmingly.
Similar to taking ones foot off the clutch very quickly with a manual box.
2. The box refuses to disengage when the van stops, resulting in it crabbing
forward with the engine labouring at very low revs. Eventually the engine
stalls. Similar to fogetting to depress the clutch with a manual box.
3. When one does manage to get going it seems "stuck" in 3rd or 4th gear
(not sure which) for a while.
When warm:
Its much better - none of the above seem to happen.
However sometimes it changes down too early and sometimes the box seems to
change too often - its as if it cant make up its mind what gear it should be
in.
I checked the gearbox oil and there is certainly enough. If anything, its
too full.
The van has done @50k miles.
I called a couple of auto gearbox firms in the yellow pages and they both
said that they thought there was something major broken inside the box. But
if that is true I dont understand why it is much better when warm.
Questions:
What could be wrong? I know nothing about auto gearboxes :-(
Is it worth changing the oil to see if that helps?
Can anyone recomend a reputable firm?
Thanks in advance - Adam Lipscombe
Guy King
from " Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> contains these words:
> a "Bongo Friendee".
Sorry, but I can't possibly answer your question till I've got the
choccy biscuit crumbs out of the keyboard and stopped giggling.
--
"Bother", said Skipweasel as he molished a little jig.
Adam Lipscombe
Check out www.bongofury.co.uk for the UK web site.
Cheers - Adam
"Guy King" <guy....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:200404221...@zetnet.co.uk...
Robin
take it back get them to sort it., Sue them if need be for selling car as
unfit for purpose.
they will probably claim all sorts to wriggle out & try very hard not to
pay.
this will be expensive.
flushing gb is not the answer.
our experiance is that good auto garages that are hard to find.
we had to take one garage to court for cocking up repair of autobox (we
won).
" Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote in message
news:10826428...@eunomia.uk.clara.net...
Dave Plowman
Adam Lipscombe <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote:
> What could be wrong? I know nothing about auto gearboxes :-(
> Is it worth changing the oil to see if that helps?
> Can anyone recomend a reputable firm?
In general with autos, the labour cost of removal and stripping is such
that it's only ever worth doing a full overhaul at the same time - the
parts themselves aren't that expensive.
Changing the oil won't make any difference.
It might help if you said which area you lived in for recommendations.
--
*Why is a boxing ring square?
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Guy King
from " Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> contains these words:
> Yeah its a daft name :-) Probably sounds OK in Osaka..
> Check out www.bongofury.co.uk for the UK web site.
Hmmm, it's not just the name that's ugly, is it!
Mark W
" Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote in message
news:10826428...@eunomia.uk.clara.net...
>
>
> I have a Mazda MPV import - a "Bongo Friendee". Its got a 2.5 diesel with
> 4wd coupled via an 4 speed automatic box. The auto box has started playing
> up.
Is it a conventional automatic with a torque converter?
It could be the hydraulic pump at fault, Reverse is usually the first gear
to disappear if this is the case.
In the worst instance, if the vehicle has a heat exchanger from the
transmission oil to the coolant (a simple pipe running though the bottom of
the radiator) engine coolant can get into the transmission oil and destroy
the transmission comprehensively.
Mike G
" Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote in message
news:10826428...@eunomia.uk.clara.net...
> The van has done @50k miles.
> I called a couple of auto gearbox firms in the yellow pages and they both
> said that they thought there was something major broken inside the box.
But
> if that is true I dont understand why it is much better when warm.
> Questions:
>
> What could be wrong? I know nothing about auto gearboxes :-(
> Is it worth changing the oil to see if that helps?
> Can anyone recomend a reputable firm?
If the fault was in the hydraulics. Crap in the valve chest etc, it could
explain why it's better warm than cold. Would still need stripping to fix.
Mike.
SteveH
> The message <108264507...@echo.uk.clara.net>
> from " Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> contains these words:
>
> > Yeah its a daft name :-) Probably sounds OK in Osaka..
> > Check out www.bongofury.co.uk for the UK web site.
>
> Hmmm, it's not just the name that's ugly, is it!
Jesus Fucking Christ...... have you seen the price of those things, ffs!
P platers up for £9k in a dealers.
*wanders off confused shaking head*
--
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300
VW Golf GL Cabrio - Alfa 75 TS - Alfa 155 TS Lusso - COSOC KOTL
BoTAFOT #87 - BoTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #
Malc
> Yeah its a daft name :-) Probably sounds OK in Osaka..
> Check out www.bongofury.co.uk for the UK web site.
>
--
Malc
Adam Lipscombe
I live in Perranporth, Cornwall. Theres a couplem of automatic transmission
people in the local Yellow Pages but they botgh sounded pretty dozy and
unhelpful.
Cheers- Adam
"Dave Plowman" <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4ca3b33cf5...@argonet.co.uk...
Pete M
SteveH <st...@italiancar.co.uk> decided to enlighten our sheltered souls
with a rant as follows
> Guy King <guy....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> The message <108264507...@echo.uk.clara.net>
>> from " Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> contains these
>> words:
>>
>>> Yeah its a daft name :-) Probably sounds OK in Osaka..
>>> Check out www.bongofury.co.uk for the UK web site.
>>
>> Hmmm, it's not just the name that's ugly, is it!
>
> Jesus Fucking Christ...... have you seen the price of those things,
> ffs!
>
> P platers up for £9k in a dealers.
>
> *wanders off confused shaking head*
weirdly enough, I actually saw one today, which provided me with a couple of
moments of mirth.. I'm looking out for a Subaru November something or other
now.. There's a Nissan S-Cargo delivering pizzas round 'ere somewhere
though..
--
Pete M
Ford Capri !!!
Mercedes 500 SEL,
Scouse Git extraordinaire.
Liverpool, Great Britain
Fred
Before you spend in excess of £1500 I would strongly suggest that you ring
Mazda and check the recommended spec and quantity of the transmission fluid
( don't ask anyone else as they will probably just guess), then go to Mill
Autos and buy the required stuff and drain and refill.
Be very careful that you don't overfill as it is a lot easier to add oil
than remove it.
TBH it probably wont cure the problem but it might, if you have to have the
box removed and serviced you are into serious money!
Dave Plowman
Mark W <s@o> wrote:
> It could be the hydraulic pump at fault, Reverse is usually the first
> gear to disappear if this is the case.
If the pump fails, nothing works at all. If the pressure from it is low,
the most likely faults are slipping on changes.
--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder *
Dave Plowman
Fred <Dont...@hidden.co.us> wrote:
> Before you spend in excess of £1500 I would strongly suggest that you
> ring Mazda and check the recommended spec and quantity of the
> transmission fluid ( don't ask anyone else as they will probably just
> guess), then go to Mill Autos and buy the required stuff and drain and
> refill. Be very careful that you don't overfill as it is a lot easier to
> add oil than remove it. TBH it probably wont cure the problem but it
> might, if you have to have the box removed and serviced you are into
> serious money!
Automatic transmission fluid ain't cheap. Why throw money away - it won't
help. There *might* be something to be said for routine changes - but as
a precaution, not after something has gone wrong.
--
*I'm not being rude. You're just insignificant
Fred
> In article <4088414c$0$25240$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com>,
> Fred <Dont...@hidden.co.us> wrote:
> > Before you spend in excess of £1500 I would strongly suggest that you
> > ring Mazda and check the recommended spec and quantity of the
> > transmission fluid ( don't ask anyone else as they will probably just
> > guess), then go to Mill Autos and buy the required stuff and drain and
> > refill. Be very careful that you don't overfill as it is a lot easier to
> > add oil than remove it. TBH it probably wont cure the problem but it
> > might, if you have to have the box removed and serviced you are into
> > serious money!
>
> Automatic transmission fluid ain't cheap.
I pay about £7.00 for 5ltrs of Dexron 2
Why throw money away -
I would rather chance a tenner than pay at least a grand ( if you can find
someone to touch a 4wd automatic import)!
it won't
> help.
How do you know? The OP said it seems to be overfilled, so it must be worth
a go?
There *might* be something to be said for routine changes - but as
> a precaution, not after something has gone wrong.
There might be something said for knowing what you are on about too! I own a
garage repair business and have been trading for 12yrs, I have been working
in the motor trade for 20 yrs. I said it probaly won't cure the problem, but
it will only cost a fraction of the price of removing the box and repairing
it. A chance worth taking ! And you're claim to fame is?
Dave Plowman
> I pay about £7.00 for 5ltrs of Dexron 2
You know it uses Dexron II, and that the OP can buy it for this price? And
that he can change it himself? Or that it's a box where the fluid can be
changed?
> > Why throw money away -
> I would rather chance a tenner than pay at least a grand ( if you can
> find someone to touch a 4wd automatic import)!
Care to explain from your obvious 'experience' what good changing the
fluid will do? Be as explicit as you want. How is it going to stop a
clutch grabbing, etc?
> > it won't help.
> How do you know? The OP said it seems to be overfilled, so it must be
> worth a go?
On the basis of trying anything?
> > There *might* be something to be said for routine changes - but as
> > a precaution, not after something has gone wrong.
> There might be something said for knowing what you are on about too! I
> own a garage repair business and have been trading for 12yrs, I have
> been working in the motor trade for 20 yrs. I said it probaly won't cure
> the problem, but it will only cost a fraction of the price of removing
> the box and repairing it. A chance worth taking ! And you're claim to
> fame is?
Oh dear - a 'pro' has spoken, so we must all bow to his greater
knowledge. Just how many autos have you *personally* overhauled? I've done
a few, but them I'm not a pro...
--
*Men are from Earth, women are from Earth. Deal with it.
ßilly Bogsnorkeller.
> In article <40885694$0$25240$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com>,
> Fred <Dont...@hidden.co.us> wrote:
> > > Automatic transmission fluid ain't cheap.
>
> > I pay about £7.00 for 5ltrs of Dexron 2
>
> You know it uses Dexron II, and that the OP can buy it for this price? And
> that he can change it himself? Or that it's a box where the fluid can be
> changed?
>
> > > Why throw money away -
>
> > I would rather chance a tenner than pay at least a grand ( if you can
> > find someone to touch a 4wd automatic import)!
>
> Care to explain from your obvious 'experience' what good changing the
> fluid will do? Be as explicit as you want. How is it going to stop a
> clutch grabbing, etc?
I don't realy need to be explicit do I? Torque converter mean anything to
you?
>
> > > it won't help.
>
> > How do you know? The OP said it seems to be overfilled, so it must be
> > worth a go?
>
> On the basis of trying anything?
On the basis of a long shot and the cost?
>
> > > There *might* be something to be said for routine changes - but as
> > > a precaution, not after something has gone wrong.
>
> > There might be something said for knowing what you are on about too! I
> > own a garage repair business and have been trading for 12yrs, I have
> > been working in the motor trade for 20 yrs. I said it probaly won't cure
> > the problem, but it will only cost a fraction of the price of removing
> > the box and repairing it. A chance worth taking ! And you're claim to
> > fame is?
>
> Oh dear - a 'pro' has spoken, so we must all bow to his greater
> knowledge. Just how many autos have you *personally* overhauled? I've done
> a few, but them I'm not a pro...
Piss off you prick.
--
Daft cunt's anoy me!
Mike G
"Fred" <Dont...@hidden.co.us> wrote in message
news:40885694$0$25240$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com...
> There might be something said for knowing what you are on about too! I own
a
> garage repair business and have been trading for 12yrs, I have been
working
> in the motor trade for 20 yrs. I said it probaly won't cure the problem,
but
> it will only cost a fraction of the price of removing the box and
repairing
> it. A chance worth taking ! And you're claim to fame is?
You're probably right. You could also be a very good car mechanic.
But the fact remains that many of those in the motor trade, car mechanics
included are incompetent.
Time served doesn't neccessarily equate with either ability, or knowledge
You must be just as well aware of that as I am.
How long you've been in the motor trade cuts no ice with me, or with many
others in this n/g I would guess.
Mike.
Mike G
That's right. You tell him Dave. :-)
Mike.
Fred
"Mike G" <mikgibbs@tiscali dot co dot uk> wrote in message
news:4088685e$1...@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
You are wrong! the time spent mending cars is the key! Qualifications are
not as important as time served fixing the damn things! I learn something
new every week , experience is everything thing !
Guy King
from "Fred" <Dont...@hidden.co.us> contains these words:
> There might be something said for knowing what you are on about too! I own a
> garage repair business and have been trading for 12yrs, I have been working
> in the motor trade for 20 yrs. I said it probaly won't cure the problem, but
> it will only cost a fraction of the price of removing the box and repairing
> it. A chance worth taking ! And you're claim to fame is?
Oh dear, one of these.
Adam Lipscombe
input!
I might try to change the fluid first as it do9es seem to be overfilled. I
had a look underneath and cant see a drain plug or anything that looks like
one. Anyone know how to do this?
Cheers - Adam
"Guy King" <guy....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:200404230...@zetnet.co.uk...
Adrian
like they were saying :
> If the fault was in the hydraulics. Crap in the valve chest etc
And how often would he need to do that?
Dave Plowman
ßilly Bogsnorkeller.
<I_am_a_netkop...@t.home-because.of-my.lardy.arse> wrote:
> > Care to explain from your obvious 'experience' what good changing the
> > fluid will do? Be as explicit as you want. How is it going to stop a
> > clutch grabbing, etc?
> I don't realy need to be explicit do I? Torque converter mean anything
> to you?
Thanks for confirming you know nothing about autos.
--
*I'd kill for a Nobel Peace Prize *
Dave Plowman
Adam Lipscombe <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote:
> I might try to change the fluid first as it do9es seem to be overfilled.
> I had a look underneath and cant see a drain plug or anything that looks
> like one. Anyone know how to do this?
Many modern autos don't have drain plugs - the fluid is designed for their
lifetime. And if yours is one of these, you'll probably find the correct
stuff isn't just a couple of quid a gallon.
Is the fluid obviously dirty? If it is, this denotes break up of a clutch
lining material etc, and changing it won't help. If it's clean, changing
it wouldn't help either. ;-)
If the over filling was such that the fluid was being aerated by the gears
as it expands when hot, this would reduce the line pressure resulting most
likely in things slipping.
If there's no drain plug, you could buy some plastic tubing from B&Q etc
that would fit down the filler tube and pump/syphon out the excess, and
keep your fingers crossed.
The big snag with changing the fluid is that a considerable quantity will
remain in the torque convertor, which can't be drained. So any contaminate
in the fluid would simply be diluted with a change. Because of this, it's
common practice to replace the torque convertor at overhaul time -
regardless if it is faulty or not.
--
*If we weren't meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Guy King
from Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> contains these words:
> If the over filling was such that the fluid was being aerated by the gears
> as it expands when hot, this would reduce the line pressure resulting most
> likely in things slipping.
Are you absolutely sure it's overfull? There are rather complex routines
for checking the level which involve arcane procdures like warming it
up, moving through all the gears slowly then turning round and spitting
before wiping the dipstick with a piece of mistletoe.
Just dipping it cold with the engine off will usually show overfull.
Unknown
> In article <108270886...@ersa.uk.clara.net>,
> Adam Lipscombe <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote:
> > I might try to change the fluid first as it do9es seem to be overfilled.
> > I had a look underneath and cant see a drain plug or anything that looks
> > like one. Anyone know how to do this?
>
> Many modern autos don't have drain plugs - the fluid is designed for their
> lifetime. And if yours is one of these, you'll probably find the correct
> stuff isn't just a couple of quid a gallon.
>
> Is the fluid obviously dirty? If it is, this denotes break up of a clutch
> lining material etc, and changing it won't help.
Just a question, here - if it is dirty / blackened or contaiminated, is
there a possibility that fresh fluid might help, if the damage to create the
contamination isn't catastrophic? Or is that scenario unlikely?
> If there's no drain plug, you could buy some plastic tubing from B&Q etc
> that would fit down the filler tube and pump/syphon out the excess, and
> keep your fingers crossed.
>
> The big snag with changing the fluid is that a considerable quantity will
> remain in the torque convertor, which can't be drained. So any contaminate
> in the fluid would simply be diluted with a change. Because of this, it's
> common practice to replace the torque convertor at overhaul time -
> regardless if it is faulty or not.
For some autos, though, some people tap into some of the cooler lines, and
actually use the torque converter to pump out fluid, whilst fresh is added.
You have to be reasonably careful, though, and may need to stop and start
the engine to catch up the rate of it being pumped out - might be difficult
as a job for one person. Using a procedure like that, it would be possible
to totally replace the fluid, wouldn't it?
Assuming that tapping into these pipes is possible, and that there is
actually a filler tube, or some other means of tapping in to add new fluid.
Depending on where you break into these pipes / hoses, though, you may not
get at the fluid in the cooler.
Dave Plowman
Guy King <guy....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote:
> The message <4ca413c254...@argonet.co.uk>
> from Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> contains these words:
> > If the over filling was such that the fluid was being aerated by the
> > gears as it expands when hot, this would reduce the line pressure
> > resulting most likely in things slipping.
> Are you absolutely sure it's overfull?
I'm not.;-) I'd think it very unlikely to be the problem. But the OP has
high hopes.
--
*A plateau is a high form of flattery.*
Dave Plowman
__ __ <@> wrote:
> > Is the fluid obviously dirty? If it is, this denotes break up of a
> > clutch lining material etc, and changing it won't help.
> Just a question, here - if it is dirty / blackened or contaiminated, is
> there a possibility that fresh fluid might help, if the damage to create
> the contamination isn't catastrophic? Or is that scenario unlikely?
IMHO, unlikely. Once a lining starts to break up, it will continue. And if
debris has lodged in the valve body, draining and refilling is unlikely to
remove it, as it was deposited there under pressure.
> > If there's no drain plug, you could buy some plastic tubing from B&Q
> > etc that would fit down the filler tube and pump/syphon out the
> > excess, and keep your fingers crossed.
> >
> > The big snag with changing the fluid is that a considerable quantity
> > will remain in the torque convertor, which can't be drained. So any
> > contaminate in the fluid would simply be diluted with a change.
> > Because of this, it's common practice to replace the torque convertor
> > at overhaul time - regardless if it is faulty or not.
> For some autos, though, some people tap into some of the cooler lines,
> and actually use the torque converter to pump out fluid, whilst fresh is
> added. You have to be reasonably careful, though, and may need to stop
> and start the engine to catch up the rate of it being pumped out - might
> be difficult as a job for one person. Using a procedure like that, it
> would be possible to totally replace the fluid, wouldn't it?
> Assuming that tapping into these pipes is possible, and that there is
> actually a filler tube, or some other means of tapping in to add new
> fluid. Depending on where you break into these pipes / hoses, though,
> you may not get at the fluid in the cooler.
Yes, you could do this, although you'd have to be careful not to introduce
more muck when you disconnect the pipes. However, I tend to believe the
makers if they don't make provision for changing the fluid - it's likely
to be just a waste of time and money.
Changing engine oil is a different matter. It gets contaminated by the
products of combustion. Not so in an auto - the only reason to change it
is if the molecular structure of the fluid breaks down in some way.
--
*It's a thankless job, but I've got a lot of Karma to burn off
Guy King
from "__ __" <@> contains these words:
> Using a procedure like that, it would be possible
> to totally replace the fluid, wouldn't it?
Yes and no. There's a lot of mixing goes on in a torque convertor - and
that means that to get out a reasonable proportion of the old oil you'd
have to replace more then the total volume of the system. Depending how
thorough you wanted to be several time more.
Guy King
from "__ __" <@> contains these words:
> Just a question, here - if it is dirty / blackened or contaiminated, is
> there a possibility that fresh fluid might help, if the damage to create the
> contamination isn't catastrophic? Or is that scenario unlikely?
Very unlikely.
Guy King
from Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> contains these words:
> > Are you absolutely sure it's overfull?
> I'm not.;-)
Sorry, Dave, I didn't mean you - I meant "you" in general.
Adam Lipscombe
When I check the dipstick it shows reddish liquid quite a way above the
"full" mark. Its not brown or discoloured in any way.
The funny thin is this: I just took the van out and it was a pig for the
first mile, but then behaved absolutely OK.
Obviously I am anxious to avoid a potential Ł1500 bill if I can.
Cheers - Adam
"Guy King" <guy....@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:200404231...@zetnet.co.uk...
Guy King
from " Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> contains these words:
> When I check the dipstick it shows reddish liquid quite a way above the
> "full" mark. Its not brown or discoloured in any way.
Are you checking the dipstick in the way described in the manual?
Autobox's dipsticks almost always read high unless you follow the
instructions.
Capitol
Fred wrote in message
<4088414c$0$25240$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com>...
I agree with Fred. The symptoms sound like the valves which control the
hydraulic fluid flow are sticking, possibly because of crap. Personally, I'd
drop the valve chest at the bottom of the box ( I'd hope), throw away the
fluid, clean out the oil ways and valves with a high pressure air line and a
chlorinated solvent. Then I'd re-assemble with new fluid and see if I'd
solved the problem. Auto boxes are not that complicated, provided that you
have some patience and a basic understanding of the operating mechanism. Go
away to the library and read up the subject a little before you start. If
you read up on any 1970-80's auto box, you will find the list of likely
faults and the cures. Alternatively, hunt for a breaker with an equivalent
box and fit it.
Regards
Capitol
Microstar
I suspect that this may be the four wheel drive version of the Ford CD4E
autobox (certainly some of these vehicles are fitted with this 'box for
the US market). They suffer a catalogue of faults, including faults
with the lock-up clutch.
I think first of all you need to positively identify the gearbox and
then seek expert advice. Ring Alan Bilby at FATE (Federation of
Automatic Transmission Engineers) HQ at Southend when you know what 'box
you've got. He may then be able to recommend a repairer who has the
relevant experience.
If its a sticking valve in the valve body then a change of fluid may
help - the detergent action of fresh fluid can free off the 'varnish'
that builds up in the valve bore. I have had this lead to success a
couple of times - especially on ZF 'boxes.
Fred
> In article <40886754$0$25242$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com>,
> ßilly Bogsnorkeller.
> <I_am_a_netkop...@t.home-because.of-my.lardy.arse> wrote:
> > > Care to explain from your obvious 'experience' what good changing the
> > > fluid will do? Be as explicit as you want. How is it going to stop a
> > > clutch grabbing, etc?
>
> > I don't realy need to be explicit do I? Torque converter mean anything
> > to you?
>
> Thanks for confirming you know nothing about autos.
I was just dealing with two arrogant people at the same time and forgot to
change identities, you seem to think that by adding a smart arse sig you can
look clever!
--
Well it your choice sir, you can either risk a tenner or just mortgage your
house? ( or you could add a smart arse sig and try to look clever!)
Fred
> Hey gents, I didnt want to start a flame war - thanks everyone for your
> input!
I think the man with the smart arse sig is well versed on the auto box, but
I see a lot more imports than most as two of my account customers specalise
in Jap imports. I have seen loads of imports with dammage caused by being
forklifted out of the container they were shipped in, if your Bongo had been
treated this way then it may have suffered some dammage to the transmission
or plumbing . If it had lost any fluid then someone could have refilled the
gearbox with the wrong spec (and ammount) of ATF, bearing in mind the cost
of changing the ATF against the cost of servicing the G/Box it has to be
worth a go.
Dave Baker
>From: "Fred" Don't-...@hidden.co.us
>Date: 24/04/04 02:48 GMT Daylight Time
>Message-id: <4089c753$0$20514$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com>
>
>
>" Adam Lipscombe" <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote in message
>news:108270886...@ersa.uk.clara.net...
>> Hey gents, I didnt want to start a flame war - thanks everyone for your
>> input!
>
>I think the man with the smart arse sig is well versed on the auto box, but
>I see a lot more imports than most as two of my account customers specalise
>in Jap imports. I have seen loads of imports with dammage caused by being
>forklifted out of the container they were shipped in, if your Bongo had been
>treated this way then it may have suffered some dammage to the transmission
>or plumbing . If it had lost any fluid then someone could have refilled the
>gearbox with the wrong spec (and ammount) of ATF, bearing in mind the cost
>of changing the ATF against the cost of servicing the G/Box it has to be
>worth a go.
Damage. One M.
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
I'm not at all sure why women like men. We're argumentative, childish,
unsociable and extremely unappealing naked. I'm quite grateful they do though.
Dave Plowman
> I was just dealing with two arrogant people at the same time and forgot
> to change identities,
Who cares what you call yourself?
> you seem to think that by adding a smart arse sig
> you can look clever!
Perhaps you could just answer the question, given that you claim to be an
expert?
> -- Well it your choice sir, you can either risk a tenner or just
> mortgage your house? ( or you could add a smart arse sig and try to look
> clever!)
Don't really understand this newsgroup thing, do you?
--
*If work is so terrific, how come they have to pay you to do it?
Dave Plowman
Capitol <capitol/@freedomuk.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> The symptoms sound like the valves which control the hydraulic fluid
> flow are sticking, possibly because of crap. Personally, I'd drop the
> valve chest at the bottom of the box ( I'd hope), throw away the fluid,
> clean out the oil ways and valves with a high pressure air line and a
> chlorinated solvent. Then I'd re-assemble with new fluid and see if I'd
> solved the problem. Auto boxes are not that complicated, provided that
> you have some patience and a basic understanding of the operating
> mechanism. Go away to the library and read up the subject a little
> before you start. If you read up on any 1970-80's auto box, you will
> find the list of likely faults and the cures. Alternatively, hunt for a
> breaker with an equivalent box and fit it.
This would certainly be worth a try, but, let's face it, it's probably
beyond many, although as you say there's no need for it to be. Few, if
any, normal *garages* will even open up an auto - except possibly to
replace a downshift cable if it had one.
--
*Why do the two "sanction"s (noun and verb) mean opposites?*
Guy King
from "Fred" <Don't-...@hidden.co.us> contains these words:
> I was just dealing with two arrogant people at the same time
Ah, yes, arrogance. That's when you start throwing your weight around
and spouting off about how much experience you've got, being sarcastic
about people who've been giving useful and accurate advice in here for
years and so on, innit? I think I recognise the description now.
Adam Lipscombe
Presumably the box should have some ID on the side or somewhere?
Do you have a number for Mr Bilby?
Cheers - Adam
"Microstar" <micr...@NOSPAMeurope.com> wrote in message
news:40898B0E...@NOSPAMeurope.com...
Microstar
Normally there would be some markings on the gearbox to indicate its
orgin - might take a while to find them! Contact details for FATE are:
Tel: 07885 228595
E-mail : infofr...@aol.com
Good luck.
Adam Lipscombe
I was searching for the gearbox ID and came across "4EC-AT" on the vehicle
ID plate next to "transmission".
Googling reveals that this is indeed a gearbox, but I am not sure who makes
it? Mazda or Jatco?
Any ideas?
Cheers - Adam
Luckily the vehice
"Microstar" <micr...@NOSPAMeurope.com> wrote in message
news:408A9D54...@NOSPAMeurope.com...
"@mail.com >
> Hi Folks,
>
> I was searching for the gearbox ID and came across "4EC-AT" on the vehicle
> ID plate next to "transmission".
> Googling reveals that this is indeed a gearbox, but I am not sure who makes
> it? Mazda or Jatco?
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
> Cheers - Adam
A search of the net reveals that '4EC-AT' is associated with Mazda
rather than Jatco. Not a lot I know but....
HTH
Pete
Fred
> Hi Folks,
>
> I was searching for the gearbox ID and came across "4EC-AT" on the
vehicle
> ID plate next to "transmission".
> Googling reveals that this is indeed a gearbox, but I am not sure who
makes
> it? Mazda or Jatco?
>
> Any ideas?
I did a bit of research too, you have a very complex electronically
controlled g/box! I think you should phone a Mazda dealer and ask for a
*fixed price* diagnostic on your gearbox. You may find it is a common fault
and they are able to fix it without charging you a fortune ( your g/box is
used in several Mazda models). I still think you should try to drain off as
much fluid as you can and refill with the right spec, and I still think
it's a gamble worth taking .
Adam Lipscombe
I should have stuck with my old air-cooled VW bus - it was slow and thirsty
but at least you could fix it with a sledgehammer :-(
Seriously - a big thanks to all who have responded on this subject. I will
talk to the local Mazda people, though I doubt they will want to touch an
import.
Anyone know a *good* auto gearbox shop in Cornwall or Devon (I am in
Perranporth) who could handle the diag work?
Cheers - Adam
"Fred" <Don't-...@hidden.co.us> wrote in message
news:408c4183$0$19422$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com...
Fred
> Just my bloody luck!
>
> I should have stuck with my old air-cooled VW bus - it was slow and
thirsty
> but at least you could fix it with a sledgehammer :-(
>
>
> Seriously - a big thanks to all who have responded on this subject. I will
> talk to the local Mazda people, though I doubt they will want to touch an
> import.
>
> Anyone know a *good* auto gearbox shop in Cornwall or Devon (I am in
> Perranporth) who could handle the diag work?
You have to go to Mazda, it may be that the gearbox is not the problem as it
controlled by electronics the problem could be elsewhere. Only Mazda would
have the equipment to diagnose it.
Adam Lipscombe
A very nice man at Vopers Mazda in Plymouth said they could run the diags.
Phew!
Cheers - Adam
"Fred" <Don't-...@hidden.co.us> wrote in message
news:408ce141$0$19422$cc9e...@news-text.dial.pipex.com...
Dave Plowman
Adam Lipscombe <adam.li...@expensys.com> wrote:
> Anyone know a *good* auto gearbox shop in Cornwall or Devon (I am in
> Perranporth) who could handle the diag work?
I wish you luck. Even in London, good auto specialists are hard to come by.
--
*Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.
Mark W
> In article <40880...@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com>,
> Mark W <s@o> wrote:
> > It could be the hydraulic pump at fault, Reverse is usually the first
> > gear to disappear if this is the case.
>
> If the pump fails, nothing works at all. If the pressure from it is low,
> the most likely faults are slipping on changes.
>
> --
...and loss of Reverse gear?
I still want to know is this a conventional auto or not!
Dave Plowman
Mark W <s@o> wrote:
> > > It could be the hydraulic pump at fault, Reverse is usually the
> > > first gear to disappear if this is the case.
> >
> > If the pump fails, nothing works at all. If the pressure from it is
> > low, the most likely faults are slipping on changes.
> >
> > --
> ...and loss of Reverse gear?
It's really only possible to guess, as low pressure might have a different
affect on different boxes. Loss of reverse gear is usually due to the
reverse clutch being faulty in some way, surprisingly. ;-)
> I still want to know is this a conventional auto or not!
Are there any 4x4s with the elastic band types?
--
*Is there another word for synonym?