the basic problem is rough idling and the stepper motor not engaging when
the engine is cold.
anyone any ideas on how much this is going to end up costing me? is there
anything I can do about this myself, or is it a non-DIY job?
this car has cost me about 700 quid in the last 6 months and I'm determined
not to spend any more!
TIA for any suggestions/info
Peter Lonsdale
"Peter Lonsdale" <p...@psychology.nottingham.ac.uk> wrote in message
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Check the TPS voltage with it cold (ign on, engine off) around the idle
position, making sure there is no sudden drop to zero. Should be a linear
increase to ~4.5v at WOT.
If fitted check the stepper motor microswitch. There will be 2 terminals on
the connector for this. Touching the switch should change the state of
continuity. If the switch does prove faulty when cold- alas you'll have to
change the whole stepper motor assemble, they're not dismantleable.
Hope this helps.
Tim..
"Peter Lonsdale" <p...@psychology.nottingham.ac.uk> wrote in message
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> I'm not familliar with the 3cyl set up, but broadly speaking with respect to
> single point injection cars with an idle stepper motor acting directly on
> the throttle linkage there is often a microswitch in the end of the rod that
> the motor drives back and forth. When the throttle is closed and against
> this mircoswitch it signals the ECU to begin controlling idle speed. The ECU
> would also need to see the TPS at ~0.6-0.7v signalling a closed throttle. So
> you may have a fault thats temperature related, and fixing itself when it
> warms up.
ah now this is interesting - I have noticed that with the current
adjustments on the throttle linkage, when the throttle is closed it does
*not* rest against the stepper motor, most likely due to the inexpert
tinkerings of the non-Vx garage who have been trying to fix this problem for
many months. if I press the end of the stepper motor (which BTW is brand
new after diagnosis indicated a fault) then the stepper motor engages and
puts the revs up to what they should be. so, would one possible fix be to
adjust the screw on the throttle arm so that it presses against the stepper
motor when closed? I asked this question a while ago on this group but was
told to leave well alone...
If the TPS has slotted mountings, release them. Also unhook the throttle
cable so its not holding open the throttle. remove the inlet duct so you can
see the throttle plate, and with a 0.10mm feeler gauge, adjust the stop
screw so the butterfly just clamps the feeler against the wall of the body.
Then hook up the linkage so it will contact the end of the stepper motor
when at rest. You will need to make sure the s/motor is retracted when you
do this.
If the TPS is slotted, set it up to read 0.6-0.7v with a closed throttle-
disconnect the stepper motor so it doesnt jack open the buterfly first when
you turn on the ignition.
If there is an idle bypass screw, again with the throttle shut and s/m
disconnected, set it up so the engine dies slowly. I dont know if there is
such a fitting on this car, some have them, some dont.
Hook up the s/m again and ***hopefully*** your idling quality will be how
Vauxhall intended.
Otherwise your going to have to visit a dealer who knows what he's doing, or
a fuel injection specialist.
Tim..
"Peter Lonsdale" <p...@psychology.nottingham.ac.uk> wrote in message
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Alistair Hutton
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> Right. So you need to sort out the 'in-expert' tinkerings. As I said I am
> not familiar with the SPi on the Corsa, but 99% of the time the following
> applies.
>
> If the TPS has slotted mountings, release them. Also unhook the throttle
> cable so its not holding open the throttle. remove the inlet duct so you can
> see the throttle plate, and with a 0.10mm feeler gauge, adjust the stop
> screw so the butterfly just clamps the feeler against the wall of the body.
> Then hook up the linkage so it will contact the end of the stepper motor
> when at rest. You will need to make sure the s/motor is retracted when you
> do this.
>
> If the TPS is slotted, set it up to read 0.6-0.7v with a closed throttle-
> disconnect the stepper motor so it doesnt jack open the buterfly first when
> you turn on the ignition.
>
> If there is an idle bypass screw, again with the throttle shut and s/m
> disconnected, set it up so the engine dies slowly. I dont know if there is
> such a fitting on this car, some have them, some dont.
>
> Hook up the s/m again and ***hopefully*** your idling quality will be how
> Vauxhall intended.
>
> Otherwise your going to have to visit a dealer who knows what he's doing, or
> a fuel injection specialist.
I'm afraid this kind of tinkering is beyond my meagre car DIY skills - the
only things I'm willing to fiddle with are the 2 screws on the throttle arm
that allow you to adjust its position.
one screw is at the bottom of the arm and adjusts the position the arm takes
at rest, so I assume this allows me to adjust the base idle speed.
the other screw is at the top and is the part that actually contacts the
stepper motor - I assume that this screw allows you to adjust the influence
of the stepper motor on the throttle position.
the problem is that with the screws in their current position, when the
throttle is closed and the stepper motor retracted, there is no contact
between the upper screw and the stepper motor. so when I start the car from
cold the ECU does not get a signal to regulate the idle using the stepper
motor and the revs stay low.
the engine currently seems to idle a little fast when warm, so my plan was
to adjust the base idle speed using the bottom screw so that I have a
reasonable warm idle, and then adjust the upper screw so that when cold the
stepper motor will be activated.
does this sound like a good plan?
or maybe a trip to the dealer is a better idea... but they want 64 quid
just to investigate!
--
Peter Lonsdale +44 (0) 115 95-15281
School of Psychology p...@psychology.nottingham.ac.uk
University of Nottingham http://www.psychology.nottingham.ac.uk/~prl
You could try what you suggested above, but you may still have some problems
with idle control, as it wouldnt be set up as Vx intended, but as a short
term fix it may work. Your base idle should be a slow one- about 500-600rpm
and the ECU / s-motor should then hold this up to ~900rpm and abit faster
when cold.
I think I'd find another dealer if your local one wants Ł64 just to open the
bonnet!
Tim..
No he was suffering from lack of idle control and subsequent stalling due to
a mal-adjusted stepper motor and throttle linkage.
You may have a too low idle or it could be running on 3 cylinders at ide, or
you could have a broken engine mounting.
well, they have already done a preliminary inspection after which they
reported a need for further investigation of "throttle position". I managed
to get away with not paying for this since they had the car in for recall
work at the same time...
so the 64 quid they want should cover it - I just wanted to know if I could
do anything myself. I suspected that the set-up should be as you have
described above, but it has all been put out of whack by the non-Vx garage
who thought it was a good idea to fiddle with the base idle without touching
the other screw, and then couldn't figure out why the stepper motor wasn't
working...
anyway, I think I'll give it back to the dealer to have it sorted properly.
thanks for the advice though - at least I have learned a lot and so can now
tell them exactly what I want!
You should set the hot BASE idle first (i.e. without the stepper motors
help), then allow the stepper motor to rise it to ~900rpm with abit of
extension thats governed by the ECU. When you switch off the engine, the
stepper motor should extend automatically after afew seconds ready for the
next re-start, be it hot or cold.
If you start without gas the idle should jump up to ~1200rpm as the engine
catches, then drop back to ~900rpm or so with a correctly operating system.
Tim..
"Peter Lonsdale" <p...@psychology.nottingham.ac.uk> wrote in message
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