Mondeo CV Joint Replacement
Simon
joint on a year 2000 Mondeo. How easy is it the remove the old etc.
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Pete Smith
s.sli...@btinternet.com says...
> Can anybody give me info on changing an out board constant velocity
> joint on a year 2000 Mondeo. How easy is it the remove the old etc.
If it's like the one that was on mine, it took 2 hours to sledgehammer it
off the driveshaft :-(
Cost more in labour than for the bits!
Pete.
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Steve Sweet
I recently changed the drivers side CV joint on my 2001 Mondeo, its really pretty self explanatory. My only problem arose after removing the old joint to find that the problem was more due to corrosion on the shaft splines, due to this there was loads of bits of broken and corroded steel in the joint and so I decided to replace it anyway having got this far. The joint was about £120, the shaft £19. I didn't have a torque wrench that would handle the 250 lb ft for the drive shaft nut so that got left at 200lbft, the max my wrench offered.
Its quite simple, from memory...
Using a breaker bar, slacken the stub axle nut, slacken road wheel nuts,
jack up, support vehicle, remove wheel,
remove brake calliper, store brake pads somewhere clean, push back piston a bit and tie up calliper,
remove ABS sensor and tie up,
remove calliper bracket,
remove brake disk and wrap up to keep clean
remove axle nut and discard (you get a new one in the kit),
slacken strut top nut as far as you can go whilst leaving it on by a few threads,
remove nut from and then split track-rod end taper joint,
remove the nut and bolt from the clamp holding the lower arm balljoint, separate the two, you may have to pry open the clamp slightly to do this,
using a 3 leg puller, force the stub axle back through the housing, making sure you don't let it drop,
at this point I separated the drive shaft assembly from the car by giving a sharp whack on the tripod joint housing,
you can now take this into the kitchen to work on just to piss off her indoors, make sure you've got plenty of old paper down, things are gonna get messy,
a sharp whack on the CV joint in the direction of the drive shaft will split the joint, pull the shaft back through the boot, this should minimise grease loss and mess,
remove the retaining ring(s) from and then inspect the shaft end, don't prat about if its damaged, its cheap enough and less agro to replace at this stage,
slide on the small CV boot clip followed by the boot itself, slide the large retaining ring into place on the boot, fit the new retaining ring into the slot on the shaft end,
fit the CV joint, make sure to feel the clip locate, apply the grease pack to the CV joint, slide over the boot and clamp up both retaining clips,
returning to the car, place the stub axle back into the bearing housing and then reconnect the tripod joint end, with a sharp shove, try to keep the joint angles roughly the same as if fitted, to avoid damage,
at this stage backtrack to refit the remaining components, torque check everything correctly,
final stub axle tightening to be done with the car on the ground, its a tight one.
Make sure to use threadlock on the calliper bracket bolts, clean all brake components during assembly and make sure to pump the pedal before attempting to test drive, to take up the piston slack.
I think I covered everything, no bits left over apart from the old joint and shaft. 8~)
| Can anybody give me info on changing an out board constant velocity
| joint on a year 2000 Mondeo. How easy is it the remove the old etc.
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Regards, Steve. S.
Tea Please, Hot!, 3 Sugars, Coconut Cookies, & no friggin war stories!!.
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