2000 Suzuki swift Rear brake/hub problem

Kirky

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Jun 29, 2012, 4:18:47 PM6/29/12

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My MOT is due shortly so I was just checking all the wheel bearings when I noticed that one of the rear wheels wont spin freely. One side would spin for maybe 10 seconds, the other would pretty much stop straight away.

Anyway I was a little pushed for time so just had a quick go at removing the drum to see if I could see the problem, it was very tight and I ended up giving up. It moved about 2mm from the backplate after some light hammering and pulling.

Is there an easier method to remove the drum if the shoes are binding as it appears? There is a small rubber plug on the backplate which I removed but couldnt see what was in there due to the rear shocker mount being in the way.

Also whats the likely cause of the problem? Is it easy to tell if the piston has seized?

The handbrake did work on this wheel still as I pulled it on and I could no longer turn the wheel by hand. I assume the problem isnt down to handbrake adjustment as I can easily pull on 6 clicks.

Rob

Mrcheerful

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Jun 29, 2012, 4:41:16 PM6/29/12

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Japanese vehicles generally have one or more tapped holes in the drum (in
the area of the wheel studs) specifically to enable easy drum removal.
Winding a suitable bolt into the hole extracts the drum. Your problem may
just be excess brake dust, or the handbrake or wheel cylinder may be seized.
This is the sort of stuff that should be checked in a yearly service.

Kirky

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Jun 30, 2012, 11:57:22 AM6/30/12

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After a lot of persuading we finally got the drum off to find the cylinder was seized. I just picked one up at a car spares shop for £18. Will be fitting it tomorrow along with some new brake pipe I had to get made up due to the nut on the cylinder rounding. It came off with some mole grips but there wasnt much left to get a spanner back on.

Thanks for the help

Rob

Chris Whelan

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Jun 30, 2012, 12:54:43 PM6/30/12

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Frequent cause of seized cylinders is failure to replace the brake fluid
at the correct service intervals.

(No offence intended, but would you consider posting from something other
than Google Groups? Your posts come out in one long line, and make it
really difficult to read. Most email clients can do it properly, and free
news reader clients are also available. If your ISP doesn't support
Usenet, you can get a free account here:

http://www.eternal-september.org/

TIA)

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.

Rob

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Jul 1, 2012, 2:23:25 AM7/1/12

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If you want to DYI on brakes than get yourself some flare nut spanners
(hex type). Cheaper in the long run that getting lines made, cause you
buggered the nuts.

Kirky

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Jul 1, 2012, 5:34:35 AM7/1/12

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I didnt realise those flare nut spanners existed but its pretty obvious of their benefits, I've found one on ebay and will be ordering later.

I'm pretty sure my brake fluid is original, i've wanted to replace it for a while but i was paranoid that i'd sheer off the bleed nipples and create a problem I didnt need. Once I've got the above mentioned spanner I shall be doing it tho.

Thanks for the info for using newsgroups, i'm in the middle of setting it up on my other PC. I did use it via outlook but orange stopped access years ago and I moved to google although was never that impressed with it.

Thanks

Rob

Rob Kirk

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Jul 1, 2012, 5:47:43 AM7/1/12

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Thanks for that chris,
I've now got Newsgroups up and running through Outlook Express. Hopefully
this makes it easier to read.
Its certainly much easier to use!

Rob

"Chris Whelan" <cawh...@prejudicentlworld.com> wrote in message
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Mrcheerful

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Jul 1, 2012, 5:38:17 AM7/1/12

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the brake fluid should be changed every two years or so.
The bleed nipples do not need a flare nut spanner. If they are particularly
dodgy looking then use a single hex socket with a tbar on them (where
possible), the thing to avoid is putting sideways pressure on bleed nipples
(which is what you tend to get using a spanner) you want a direct twist.

Rob Kirk

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Jul 1, 2012, 12:15:59 PM7/1/12

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Just fitted the new cylinder and brake pipe, bled the brake and all is well.

I'm pretty sure we've got a tbar somewhere so will give that whirl when I
bleed the other 3 lines through. And if anything goes wrong I will have the
flare nut spanner to undo any brake fittings!

Thanks for the excellent advice, much appriciated.

Rob
"Mrcheerful" <g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
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nic...@gmail.com

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Dec 12, 2012, 10:15:30 PM12/12/12

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เมื่อ วันเสาร์ที่ 30 มิถุนายน ค.ศ. 2012, 3 นาฬิกา 18 นาที 47 วินาที UTC+7, Kirky เขียนว่า: