I have had my codes read and apparently there is a fault with the
vehicle speed sensor, though I am not sure whether this is a "real"
fault because as far as I can tell the car drives fine and the
speedometer works. I have been told the sensor is on the front near
side. Is it easy to identify and is there anything I can do, e.g. give
it a clean, before taking into to a professional and parting with
money?
TIA
the best bet is to read the codes and note them, then clear the codes and
drive till the fault recurs, then read them. That vehicle lists 4 different
VSS codes (did you note the number?), first thing to check is whether the
lead is on nice and tight with clean connections. most probable location is
on the gearbox near where the drive shafts come out, but being a citroen it
might even be on one front wheel.
highly irrelevant, but made me think of the job it was to replaced speedo
cable, from the hub of the left front wheel of my old beetle.
>
>the best bet is to read the codes and note them, then clear the codes and
>drive till the fault recurs, then read them. That vehicle lists 4 different
>VSS codes (did you note the number?), first thing to check is whether the
>lead is on nice and tight with clean connections. most probable location is
>on the gearbox near where the drive shafts come out, but being a citroen it
>might even be on one front wheel.
Sorry, I don't have the code number otherwise I might have googled it
first. I do have a dongle to read the codes onto my laptop but it's
something I bought from ebay. I just tried it and it's listing p0299,
p0400, and p0401 but from what I have read these are turbo and egr
problems: look for another thread soon ;(
if you have vacuum actuators for turbo, egr etc. then have a hunt for vacuum
leaks. 0299 turbo low boost, 0400 egr flow malfunction, 0401egr
insufficient flow. turbo low boost may just be a split pipe :)
>if you have vacuum actuators for turbo, egr etc. then have a hunt for vacuum
>leaks. 0299 turbo low boost, 0400 egr flow malfunction, 0401egr
>insufficient flow. turbo low boost may just be a split pipe :)
Thanks. These are recurring faults. I had them this time last year.
they lasted a couple of months then suddenly cured themselves, but
have now come back again. I did have the egr valve replaced but that
hasn't changed anything. A second garage found a leak on the turbo
charger (torn O-ring) but clearly that was only part of the problem.
It was suggested that the egr pipe might be coked up and that I should
use injector cleaner in the fuel and drive it on some long motorway
journeys to clean it but that hasn't solved things either.
Do I need any special equipment to test the vacuums? Do I attach a
vacuum gauge to the turbo and egr?
TIA
find where the vacuum is supplied from and measure that using the gauge
(just that, nothing else connected at all) then reconnect the extra bits
(you will need a t piece (and some hose) which car shops sell for washer
circuits) the vacuum reading should be the same with everything connected,
it should only vary momentarily when things operate and in your case will
probably drop when the throttle is wide open. when I was trying to find a
similar problem on my sister's diesel vectra I spent a couple of days
messing about until I discovered that none of the trouble codes say:'low
vacuum' (which would give you a start) in that case the fault was a small
split in the body of the inlet swirl system actuator (low throttle thingy),
so when that was turned on the vacuum dropped to very low and of course that
bit didn't actually operate. as the vacuum was very low when everything was
connected, it was then a case of disconnect and plug pipes till the fault
was found. if your vacuum readings are nice and high then that is probably
not your fault, but it might be worth putting a long hose on the gauge and
going for a drive to see what happens.
>find where the vacuum is supplied from and measure that using the gauge
>(just that, nothing else connected at all) then reconnect the extra bits
>(you will need a t piece (and some hose) which car shops sell for washer
>circuits) the vacuum reading should be the same with everything connected,
>it should only vary momentarily when things operate and in your case will
>probably drop when the throttle is wide open. when I was trying to find a
>similar problem on my sister's diesel vectra I spent a couple of days
>messing about until I discovered that none of the trouble codes say:'low
>vacuum' (which would give you a start) in that case the fault was a small
>split in the body of the inlet swirl system actuator (low throttle thingy),
>so when that was turned on the vacuum dropped to very low and of course that
>bit didn't actually operate. as the vacuum was very low when everything was
>connected, it was then a case of disconnect and plug pipes till the fault
>was found. if your vacuum readings are nice and high then that is probably
>not your fault, but it might be worth putting a long hose on the gauge and
>going for a drive to see what happens.
Thanks for the informative reply. I know vacuum losses were suggested
when I posted about this problem last year but then the faults
disappeared before I got around to opening the bonnet.
Certainly loss of pressure was an issue, as found by the leak on the
turbo charger.
I was thinking of buying a Focus as a replacement but I understand
it's the same engine, so I may get the same problems ;(
I've seen washer tubing and tees etc in halfrauds. If I ask for a
vacuum gauge will they have one, or so you recommend I go somewhere
else recommend a particular gauge?
Thanks again.
you do not need an expensive gauge as the precise readings are not too
important. I imagine any half decent mechanics tool supplier will sell one,
most car shops have a clark catalogue with all that sort of stuff in it.
Carb cleaner is basically paint thinners, but convenient as it is in a spray
with a tube.