VAG 1.9 SDI Engine Oil (VW Golf SDI / Seat Inca SDI etc)
AstraVanMan
specification oil to put in the thing. The handbook says the following:
Multigrade oil with specification VW 505 00 (appropriate for Diesel engines,
*except* engines with a pump injector).
Multigrade oil with specification VW 505 01, *especially* for engines with a
pump injector (also appropriate for all other diesel engines).
It then says:
Diesel engines with a pump injector system must *exclusively* use multigrade
oil with specification VW 505 01. For these engines do not use any other
oil other than the one with specification VW 505 01. Danger of damage to
the engine!
To purchase this special oil, contact a SEAT Official Service Center.
At my local SEAT dealer I asked for oil and they said they don't stock oil
and just to go to Halfords or similar.
So, which one do I use????? It looks like VW 505 01 is suitable for all
cases, but the 505/00 stuff seems to be more common, so if it's ok to use
that I'd rather do so. What does it mean by a "pump injector" system?
AFAIK pretty much all diesel systems use some form of injector pump, or
does it mean something else that I'm missing??
Also, it's got one of those funny environmentally friendly oil filters
(where it's just the filter itself, not the casing as normal, bit like an
air filter) - how do I change that? Is there some form of screw top that I
unscrew and the old filter just drops out, or what?
Peter
Dave
output PD engines (100, 115, 130 & 150 bhp)
I would think that using a good quality oil for diesels will be fine.
Halfords may be able to match their oil to the VW specifications. You could
try calling the VW or Seat customer service line to get the real world oil
specification
No idea about the oil filter. Sorry
Dave
"AstraVanMan" <Fuc...@WithThanks.com> wrote in message
news:AROEc.3$na...@newsfe2-gui.server.ntli.net...
S Gibber
output PD engines (100, 115, 130 & 150 bhp)"
not quite true, 1.4 75bhp 3 cylinder polo is not a high output engine and
neither is latest lupo pd engine.
But SDI engine will take VW 505 00 which can be bought in most places
including halfords who i believe do their own version.
I am surprised SEAT dealer did not stock oil, first what do they fill the
serviced cars with and also dont dealers usually sell EVERYTHING at over
inflated prices!
"Dave" <da...@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:ZTREc.34$f02.18@newsfe6-win...
Rob
> "That appliies to the higher output PD engines (100, 115, 130 & 150 bhp)"
>
> not quite true, 1.4 75bhp 3 cylinder polo is not a high output engine and
> neither is latest lupo pd engine. But SDI engine will take VW 505 00 which
> can be bought in most places including halfords who i believe do their own
> version.
>
> I am surprised SEAT dealer did not stock oil, first what do they fill the
> serviced cars with and also dont dealers usually sell EVERYTHING at over
> inflated prices!
>
There's a lot of confusion in Skoda (and it seems Seat!) as to what oil is
acceptable for PD engines and what isn't. Skoda dealer gave me 505.00 when
it is explicitly stated NOT to use it in the car manual.
Adrian
they were saying :
> I am surprised SEAT dealer did not stock oil, first what do they fill
> the serviced cars with and also dont dealers usually sell EVERYTHING
> at over inflated prices!
I can't imagine that PeterVanMan(1) would have been *overly* thrilled at
being handed 5l of oil decanted out of the workshop bulk tank into a used
Tesco carrier bag ...
(1) - We can't call you "AstraVanMan" any more, "IncaVanMan" implies a
certain level of human sacrifice to unpronouncable deities, and using your
given name has too many negative connotations of pinking fuckwittedness.
AstraVanMan
> neither is latest lupo pd engine.
> But SDI engine will take VW 505 00 which can be bought in most places
> including halfords who i believe do their own version.
>
> I am surprised SEAT dealer did not stock oil, first what do they fill the
> serviced cars with and also dont dealers usually sell EVERYTHING at over
> inflated prices!
Yeah, I was surprised at that too, maybe just out of stock of the stuff in
bottles (I'd guess the stuff they use for servicing gets pumped into their
big tanks).
Peter
AstraVanMan
> > the serviced cars with and also dont dealers usually sell EVERYTHING
> > at over inflated prices!
>
> I can't imagine that PeterVanMan(1) would have been *overly* thrilled at
> being handed 5l of oil decanted out of the workshop bulk tank into a used
> Tesco carrier bag ...
Might be a tad messy :-)
> (1) - We can't call you "AstraVanMan" any more, "IncaVanMan" implies a
> certain level of human sacrifice to unpronouncable deities, and using your
> given name has too many negative connotations of pinking fuckwittedness.
ROFLMFAO!!
I could rename myself to MasterVanMan, which I'll have as of Saturday, but I
kinda like keeping the original name - then only the regulars (or anyone
with access to google) actually knows what I'm currently driving. Funnily
enough, a litttle while back, someone sent me an email in response to
something I'd posted on a newsgroup, and ended it with "p.s. how's your
astra van?" - LOL.
Peter
Clive George
> I could rename myself to MasterVanMan, which I'll have as of Saturday, but
I
> kinda like keeping the original name - then only the regulars (or anyone
> with access to google) actually knows what I'm currently driving.
Well, you do seem to get through vehicles, so keeping your handle up to date
would be a bit onerous!
cheers,
clive
Adrian
they were saying :
> I could rename myself to MasterVanMan, which I'll have as of Saturday,
> but I kinda like keeping the original name - then only the regulars
> (or anyone with access to google) actually knows what I'm currently
> driving.
Paging TheMeatballTurboFormerlyKnownAsSkodaPilot...
Chris Bartram
> There's a lot of confusion in Skoda (and it seems Seat!) as to what oil is
> acceptable for PD engines and what isn't. Skoda dealer gave me 505.00 when
> it is explicitly stated NOT to use it in the car manual.
>
copper washers used to seal the drain plug (despite the service schedule
specifically stating it should be changed) and had to order a bag (of
100!!!) to supply one :-)
The whole VAG oil thing seems a bit difficult for a lot of people. In
addition to the 505.00, 505.01 etc there's the 506 oils (IIRC) for
extended drain intervals (like castrol SLX longlife II) VW and Audi
dealers usually know what is what, but others vary. One Seat prts bloke
didn't even know what the PD engine was- though this was when the only
Seat with a PD was the very new 115BHP Alhambra.
Isn't there a sticker on PD engines somewhere? I'll take a look at the
Wife's Polo.
Rob
There isn't a sticker on mine, other than one with an exclamation mark, the
word "Min" and a picture of the handbook. I have no idea what that is
supposed to mean!!
The handbook has some amusing translations in it too!
Guy King
from Rob <spa...@beardsdomain.co.uk> contains these words:
> There isn't a sticker on mine, other than one with an exclamation mark, the
> word "Min" and a picture of the handbook. I have no idea what that is
> supposed to mean!!
Beware of ladies call Bannister, of course.
--
"Bother", said Skipweasel as he molished a little jig.
Chris
reg. number, then their computer will show the oil that they'll use if you
take your car in for service.
I phoned them up this afternoon, and was told my 1.9TDi 110bhp needs Castrol
GTX Magnetec, and that's 10W-40, I said I picked up a bottle from Halfords
the other day, but it hasn't got 500.xx or 505.xx on the tin, but the
technician over the phone insists it has!
I'm confuse here, first, the GTX Magnetec is 10W-40 where any of 500.xx or
501/505.xx are 0-w30 right? So, they are different in grade. Secondary, if
you lookup the catelogue in Halfords you won't find it recommends you to use
the GTX, nor the user manual from VW.
~ Chris
"AstraVanMan" <Fuc...@WithThanks.com> wrote in message
news:AROEc.3$na...@newsfe2-gui.server.ntli.net...
AstraVanMan
but I
> > kinda like keeping the original name - then only the regulars (or anyone
> > with access to google) actually knows what I'm currently driving.
>
> Well, you do seem to get through vehicles, so keeping your handle up to
date
> would be a bit onerous!
Yep, precisely. I could just go under the handle of "Peter", but that's got
a bit of a stigma attached to it these days :-)
Peter
AstraVanMan
> copper washers used to seal the drain plug (despite the service schedule
> specifically stating it should be changed) and had to order a bag (of
> 100!!!) to supply one :-)
The Seat dealer (SMC Windsor, actually in Datchet) actually gave me a
replacment sump plug and washer along with the oil filter, at no extra cost
by the looks of things (well it was bound to be included somehow).
> The whole VAG oil thing seems a bit difficult for a lot of people. In
> addition to the 505.00, 505.01 etc there's the 506 oils (IIRC) for
> extended drain intervals (like castrol SLX longlife II) VW and Audi
> dealers usually know what is what, but others vary. One Seat prts bloke
> didn't even know what the PD engine was- though this was when the only
> Seat with a PD was the very new 115BHP Alhambra.
> Isn't there a sticker on PD engines somewhere? I'll take a look at the
> Wife's Polo.
Extended drain intervals don't bother me, any car or van of mine gets its
oil and filter changed every 5k no matter what (except for when I don't get
around to it and it ends up being 8-9k, but generally when that happens I've
done lots of motorway miles so no real harm done). I know this has been
done to death, but my view is that I'd rather spend the little extra and
know it's been kept tip top.
Peter
S Gibber
engine rebuild" which after checking yourself means its run out of petrol!
the worst 2nd car you can buy is a mechanic's car as they know how to keep
it on the road for f**k all.
As for not having a bottle of oil in a dealers garage.....not including
their own special supply....its just plain stupid. a dealer should really be
able to supply most parts etc to keep you on the road and even rare parts
should be orderable within days. but for crying out loud, oil.
sound like a right bunch to me.
with pd engines you really have to educate some dealerships in what type of
all must be used. As come the engine failure due to wrong oil after only 20
000 miles the dealer will say "but we did put the right oil in even though
your service report says different. one letter to vw and compensation is
sorted out!"
i love a good rant ;)
"Chris" <ch...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cc1kep$86d$1...@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk...
AstraVanMan
an
> engine rebuild" which after checking yourself means its run out of petrol!
> the worst 2nd car you can buy is a mechanic's car as they know how to keep
> it on the road for f**k all.
Yeah, true - the best type is one lovingly maintained by someone who knows
what they're doing but maybe has a reasonable job and isn't worried about
spending decent money where neccessary to keep it properly maintained.
> As for not having a bottle of oil in a dealers garage.....not including
> their own special supply....its just plain stupid. a dealer should really
be
> able to supply most parts etc to keep you on the road and even rare parts
> should be orderable within days. but for crying out loud, oil.
> sound like a right bunch to me.
Heh, well the parts guy did seem reasonably clued up - like you say though,
it is a bit shit not having bottles of oil in stock.
> with pd engines you really have to educate some dealerships in what type
of
> all must be used.
That's exactly what I hate about garages in general. Kev (Uno-Hoo) had
exactly the same problem with his diesel Rover 75 regarding the oil.
Dealers seem complacent that the customer won't notice/care, and are relying
on nothing going wrong as a result of their numptiness, which they probably
get away with 9 times out of 10, but I don't want to take that chance - I'd
rather look in the handbook to see what that recommends, ask people on here,
etc etc., and make damn sure I am doing the job properly.
> As come the engine failure due to wrong oil after only 20
> 000 miles the dealer will say "but we did put the right oil in even though
> your service report says different. one letter to vw and compensation is
> sorted out!"
>
> i love a good rant ;)
Ah, me too!
Peter
Chris Bartram
> Extended drain intervals don't bother me, any car or van of mine gets its
> oil and filter changed every 5k no matter what (except for when I don't get
> around to it and it ends up being 8-9k, but generally when that happens I've
> done lots of motorway miles so no real harm done). I know this has been
> done to death, but my view is that I'd rather spend the little extra and
> know it's been kept tip top.
>
> Peter
>
>
I'd sgree, except for where you have to pay the stealership 100 quid to
change the oil+filter and kick the tyres once. Like you say, it's been
done to death, but I'm still curious about the longlife oil (My A3 is on
longlife service ATM). In the past I've always changed oil and filer at
about 5K. I'd like to know if anyone has a very high mileage Audi/VW
that's on variable extended service intervals. On the same line, does
anyone know if changing the oil (keeping with the correct longlife oil)
halfway through an extended period will affect how the car measures the
service interval?
Chris
dealer service history?
It's completely stupid to pay over £150 for an oil service with the wrong
oil, and then change it yourself straight after.
All the monkey has to do is to type in your reg. number, then the database
will tell it to put whatever it says, my service history invoice says GTX
magnetec everytime. What can you do about it, eh?
~ Chris
"AstraVanMan" <Fuc...@WithThanks.com> wrote in message
news:HD_Ec.227$xd6.30@newsfe3-gui...
AstraVanMan
> change the oil+filter and kick the tyres once. Like you say, it's been
> done to death, but I'm still curious about the longlife oil (My A3 is on
> longlife service ATM). In the past I've always changed oil and filer at
> about 5K. I'd like to know if anyone has a very high mileage Audi/VW
> that's on variable extended service intervals. On the same line, does
> anyone know if changing the oil (keeping with the correct longlife oil)
> halfway through an extended period will affect how the car measures the
> service interval?
I think Steve Firth mentioned a while back that a friend of his had an Audi
Allroad (might have been just an A6 2.5TDI V6) that had something like 197k
on the clock and still ran like new, and that had been serviced every 20k
(roughly, according to their service intervals anyway).
Peter
S Gibber
how many of us after getting the car back check it over to make sure its all
been done correctly.
I know so many people, and i include myself, that have found the car to be
in worse condition then before it went in for a service etc. Brakes not
refitted properly, lose wheel nuts, electrics not correctly connected back.
i have heard of a mercedes dealer not bothering to tightening wheel nuts
causing near disaster on a motorway. my first car service saw my (being
young and trusting) driving home for the dealership with the bonnet undone
and they had not bothered closing it properly. yet they charge £60+ an hour
and the mechanics earn top notch at dealerships.
i am sure many others will have stories......
"Chris" <ch...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cc1u0b$hjs$1...@news5.svr.pol.co.uk...
Dave
There's also the 1.2 PD from the Lupo 3L. I've only ever seen one of those
in the UK. It was in Bala IIRC
"S Gibber" <nosp...@thankyou.com> wrote in message
news:hfXEc.93$JZ1...@newsfe3-win.server.ntli.net...
Dave H
>
> I phoned them up this afternoon, and was told my 1.9TDi 110bhp needs
Castrol
> GTX Magnetec, and that's 10W-40, I said I picked up a bottle from Halfords
> the other day, but it hasn't got 500.xx or 505.xx on the tin, but the
> technician over the phone insists it has!
>
> I'm confuse here, first, the GTX Magnetec is 10W-40 where any of 500.xx or
> 501/505.xx are 0-w30 right? So, they are different in grade. Secondary,
if
> you lookup the catelogue in Halfords you won't find it recommends you to
use
> the GTX, nor the user manual from VW.
snipped
What you need is Castrol GTD Magnatec 10w-40 not GTX. The GTD says on the
label "meets the spec for VW 550 00 and 500 00.
Millers Oils do an oil that meets the higher spec for pump deuce engines and
at a reasonable price I believe. Getting hold of it may be a bit tricky
though.
Dave H
Chris
~ Chris
"Dave H" <cli...@v21.me.uk> wrote in message
news:40e54e96$1...@news.greennet.net...
DuncanWood
Mines had it changed every 10K for the last 200,000 & it's got no
detectable wear.
Colin
"AstraVanMan" <Fuc...@WithThanks.com> wrote in message
Messages re: PD oil....
I too have very serious doubts about dealing with both Skoda and their
dealerships.... Skoda stated that the dealerships are allowed to sell
their own products and I'm dubious about dealing with garages who sell goods
which don't add-up to the information supplied by the manufacturers.
Having bought a new vRS recently, I was told to keep an eye on the
engine-oil level. After a few hundred miles the oil needed
topping-up....obtained one litre from the local dealers and had to use
nearly 3/4 of it.
I had to return to the place of purchase (Mitchell Skoda/Wirral) a couple of
weeks later and decided to buy a 5-litre container of PD oil just in case
this was going to be one of those engines they described....some may need a
little but some may need a lot, so I was told.
I was previously told by this dealership that the manufacturers part number
required was: G052167A2/5. I asked for this and was given something
called "FUCHS" Titan supersyn pd....as I'd only just purchased the car
(NEW) from them, I had no reason to doubt them at this point and handed the
receipt to my wife. Couple of weeks later she handed me the receipt,
which I'd forgotten about, and it was only then I'd noticed that the details
on the receipt didn't correspond with the product supplied.
They had assured me that the oil supplied was the oil to use..... now, at
this point in time certain alarm bells were ringing. It may be O.K. for
them to say it was alright to use but, what if I used it and something went
wrong with the engine ?? No good asking the dealership, they could say
anything, being naturally biased towards the product(s) they sell....yes??
So, I 'phone Skoda, several times, who, to cut a long story short, confirmed
my suspicions.....".....This oil is not on our compatibility list but it
doesn't mean it's not compatible....what specification is on the oil
container??" "Er...none. If I use this "FUCHS" oil and there was a
warranty claim against the engine, would Skoda accept the claim ??" "If
it's not on our compatibility list and it proves not to be compatible then
Skoda wouldn't accept an engine warranty claim, you will need to take this
up with the dealership"..... As this dealership was recommended to me by
Skoda, in the first instance, it does tend to leave me with some serious
doubts as to whom is kidding whom ?? I ended by telling Skoda to close
their file as I felt the trust had gone out the window.... Oh! the other
small problem was one of some small paint touch-up spots....these had
obviously been applied prior to me collecting the car from the compound
where large stone chippings were the temporary ground-base !! Skoda said
I should again take this up with the dealership as it wouldn't be covered
under a warranty claim...they also said, as I'm sure we're all aware, that
it would be my word against theirs!! I shouldn't have been so trusting
but they shouldn't have been careless, they've lost a customer....I couldn't
trust them with the servicing if they use oil with *no* specification
markings and don't use the genuine stated-product. I have tried to contact
the dealership and left a message with a certain person who assured me that
somebody would 'phone me the following day and I'm still waiting....I
suppose I could report the matter to the Trading Standards Office about the
oil being sold under a false description....according to the part number
confirmed, that is.
Colin.
Colin.
S Gibber
"Colin" <co...@msm11.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cc9bip$28r$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
Just plain bad service, I think as always its hard to find a dealership who
care, but when you do keep with them......a good reputation is hard to come
buy.
I just hate to think about people who dont know much about cars and rely on
dealerships to get it right. Heck i learnt on this newsgroup about the
dangers of using the wrong anti freeze ie it can speed up or destroy cooling
systems seals!
AstraVanMan
> > change the oil+filter and kick the tyres once. Like you say, it's been
> > done to death, but I'm still curious about the longlife oil (My A3 is on
> > longlife service ATM). In the past I've always changed oil and filer at
> > about 5K. I'd like to know if anyone has a very high mileage Audi/VW
> > that's on variable extended service intervals. On the same line, does
> > anyone know if changing the oil (keeping with the correct longlife oil)
> > halfway through an extended period will affect how the car measures the
> > service interval?
>
>
> Mines had it changed every 10K for the last 200,000 & it's got no
> detectable wear.
What engine is it? What brand of oil has been used?
Peter
Huw
I think it was me. He often exceeded 20k miles by a couple or three
thousand miles. No problem whatsoever. He now runs a BMW 5 series but
is already planning to change back to a new Allroad when he has about
50k on the BMW, sometime next Spring or whenever Audi decide to launch
its new Allroad type vehicle.
Huw
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.698 / Virus Database: 455 - Release Date: 02/06/04
AstraVanMan
> > an Audi Allroad (might have been just an A6 2.5TDI V6) that had
> > something like 197k on the clock and still ran like new, and that had
> > been serviced every 20k (roughly, according to their service
> > intervals anyway).
>
> thousand miles. No problem whatsoever.
Fair enough. I still wouldn't be convinced unless it had 500k on the clock
with 20k oil changes all through its life, and still running sweet. I'm the
eternal pessimist.
> He now runs a BMW 5 series but
> is already planning to change back to a new Allroad when he has about
> 50k on the BMW, sometime next Spring or whenever Audi decide to launch
> its new Allroad type vehicle.
Peter
david....@lineone.net
To be honest I think most modern cars are rubbish as I used to run a Triumph GT6. The block was "Chromalloy" which resisted wear extremely well and as far as I know in the cars entire life the cylinder head never came off. Of course the rust bug got it in the end but it was great while it lasted. Unfortunately they no longer make cars that are as durable as a tractor.
Tim
<david....@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:26a130b7-c7f5-42e8...@googlegroups.com...
have been run on the long-life long term oil change plan- then *some*
(depends on engine code) will fall foul of the oil pump chain failure !
>
Duncan Wood
service.
Dave Plowman (News)
> To be honest I think most modern cars are rubbish as I used to run a
> Triumph GT6. The block was "Chromalloy" which resisted wear extremely
> well and as far as I know in the cars entire life the cylinder head
> never came off. Of course the rust bug got it in the end but it was
> great while it lasted. Unfortunately they no longer make cars that are
> as durable as a tractor.
would need a re-bore at some point in their life, and usually at well
short of 100,000 miles, even if serviced on the dot. Most modern engines
can do more than double that, if looked after.
--
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Peter Hill
> In article <26a130b7-c7f5-42e8...@googlegroups.com>,
> <david....@lineone.net> wrote:
>> To be honest I think most modern cars are rubbish as I used to run a
>> Triumph GT6. The block was "Chromalloy" which resisted wear extremely
>> well and as far as I know in the cars entire life the cylinder head
>> never came off. Of course the rust bug got it in the end but it was
>> great while it lasted. Unfortunately they no longer make cars that are
>> as durable as a tractor.
>
> With respect, that is bollocks. Pretty well all engines in the GT6 days
> would need a re-bore at some point in their life, and usually at well
> short of 100,000 miles, even if serviced on the dot. Most modern engines
> can do more than double that, if looked after.
>
design was a complete and utter revelation to UK motorist that dared to
buy Japanese.
Utter dependability for 125K miles with just normal servicing and then
the body fell apart. This was at a time when Ford was offering the Pinto
that needed a cam and rocker set at 50K.
Dad had a Triumph 2000 that snapped it's crank at under 1000 miles. A
Rover 2.6 that was such a POS that I blinked and missed it. An Audi 100S
coupé that although it did 80K had a cracked head and it was hard to
find anyone within 50 miles that could service it's brakes. A Cortina
MK111 estate for the business that had to be bumped started every damn
morning, even in summer, despite having a whole new starter system,
battery, motor, cables.
Bought a 610 180B Bluebird while on holiday in Wales to replace the
Cortina. It did everything that was asked of it and that was for the
Antique trade with roof rack and tow-bar. An 810 Bluebird estate
followed. Then a new 910 Bluebird GL estate. Then the Audi 100S was
given the boot for a new 910 Bluebird GL coupé - a "SSS" spec motor with
high lift cam, 2mm bigger inlet, 1mm bigger exhaust, Twin Hitachi SU,
but without the electric mirrors and voltmeter.
--
Peter Hill
replace nospam with domain host name to reply
Mrcheerful
> On 28/09/2014 15:10, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>> In article <26a130b7-c7f5-42e8...@googlegroups.com>,
>> <david....@lineone.net> wrote:
>>> To be honest I think most modern cars are rubbish as I used to run a
>>> Triumph GT6. The block was "Chromalloy" which resisted wear extremely
>>> well and as far as I know in the cars entire life the cylinder head
>>> never came off. Of course the rust bug got it in the end but it was
>>> great while it lasted. Unfortunately they no longer make cars that are
>>> as durable as a tractor.
>>
>> With respect, that is bollocks. Pretty well all engines in the GT6 days
>> would need a re-bore at some point in their life, and usually at well
>> short of 100,000 miles, even if serviced on the dot. Most modern engines
>> can do more than double that, if looked after.
>>
>
> The Datsun 'L' series being a Japanese improvement of the Mercedes SOHC
> design was a complete and utter revelation to UK motorist that dared to
> buy Japanese.
>
> Utter dependability for 125K miles with just normal servicing and then
> the body fell apart. This was at a time when Ford was offering the Pinto
> that needed a cam and rocker set at 50K.
>
> Dad had a Triumph 2000 that snapped it's crank at under 1000 miles. A
> Rover 2.6 that was such a POS that I blinked and missed it. An Audi 100S
> MK111 estate for the business that had to be bumped started every damn
> morning, even in summer, despite having a whole new starter system,
> battery, motor, cables.
>
> Bought a 610 180B Bluebird while on holiday in Wales to replace the
> Cortina. It did everything that was asked of it and that was for the
> Antique trade with roof rack and tow-bar. An 810 Bluebird estate
> followed. Then a new 910 Bluebird GL estate. Then the Audi 100S was
> but without the electric mirrors and voltmeter.
>
developed was that the alternator brushes wore out at about 130 k,
naturally it rotted away causing its passing. Another bought a Mazda
something in the early 70s (maybe late 60's), brilliant car, no trouble
till terminal rot set in.
newshound
Sunderland, an emergency 12 year old buy at auction after a Montego
broke a drive shaft; �195 with a year MOT, best part of a year tax, good
tyres and 3/4 tank of fuel. Something of a revelation after a varied
assortment of British and French vehicles, mostly 10 years old or more.
The only time the spanners came out was for a puncture (and that was
caused by hitting a damned great pothole). Next MOT it had something
like 7 unrevealed failures: a shock, some joints, exhaust, corroded
brake pipe, drive shaft boot. Not a difficult choice to scrap it!
As a sixth former in the 60's I sold petrol at a garage where Donald
Campbell had an account. Never met him, but he had one of the first
Toyota's in the country. According to the owners (one of whom was Jeff
Allam's dad) he used to complain that he had had to replace *another*
light bulb.
The Other Mike
wrote:
>My first "Japanese" car was one of the first Sunny's built in
>Sunderland
the Primera and the Micra
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