Scratches on metalic paint.
Dave Plowman
were deliberate, but on reflection more likely to be from a kiddie's bike.
I don't think they've gone through the lacquer, but are white in colour
so very obvious as the car is dark green.
I've found Turtle Wax Extreme fine for small scratches as it includes a
fine cutting compound, but this would take forever with these - I've tried
a bit.
I've got a vari-speed random orbit sander with both foam and lambswool
polishers, but don't know what compound to use - any suggestions? I've got
a professional paint supplier near - or should I just get some T-cut?
Suppose I could just get it done professionally, but there's the no
claims and the excess to consider.
--
* If Barbie is so popular, why do you have to buy her friends? *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
stephe...@tenretnitb.moc
Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
> Discovered some scratches on the car the other morning - thought they
> were deliberate, but on reflection more likely to be from a kiddie's bike.
>
> I don't think they've gone through the lacquer, but are white in colour
> so very obvious as the car is dark green.
>
> I've found Turtle Wax Extreme fine for small scratches as it includes a
> fine cutting compound, but this would take forever with these - I've tried
> a bit.
>
> I've got a vari-speed random orbit sander with both foam and lambswool
> polishers, but don't know what compound to use - any suggestions? I've got
> a professional paint supplier near - or should I just get some T-cut?
>
> Suppose I could just get it done professionally, but there's the no
> claims and the excess to consider.
>
Try using "Farecla G3" or similar grade rubbing compound, It's coarse
enough to remove scratches without damage, even by hand.
Wet a gauze mutton cloth before polishing will help lubrication and
avoids any further scratching that may occur during hand polishing.
Polish the scratches by hand first though Dave, don't use an orbital
sander unless you're positively sure the damage can't be removed by hand
rubbing first.
It will depend on the severity of the scratches but as it's white it
sounds like the lacquer hasn't been penetrated through to the colour.
T-cut is probably to fine a grade to remove severe scratches.
Polishing Paintwork tips can be found on my site if required.
Steve.
--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
1970 IIa, 2.2, SWB T/Cab & R/Top
StrongArm Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2Vram, RISC OS 4
Note email address spam trap, The "Reply to" should work.
Dave Plowman
<stephe...@tenretnitb.moc> wrote:
> Polishing Paintwork tips can be found on my site if required.
Thanks Steve (and JLE who gave the same tip by e-mail) - I actually had
your site bookmarked but had forgotten.
--
* Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco *
Dan
> Discovered some scratches on the car the other morning - thought they
> were deliberate, but on reflection more likely to be from a kiddie's bike.
T-Cut Metallic (by hand) worked excellently after some bitch danced on the
bonnet of my 316 and left severe scuff marks (but not deep scratches). I
was quite impressed.
> I don't think they've gone through the lacquer, but are white in colour
> so very obvious as the car is dark green.
Argh, not another dark green metallic BMW? Nice colour; unfortunately a
lot of people agreed.
Dave Plowman
Dan <d.c.b...@durham.ac.uk> wrote:
> Argh, not another dark green metallic BMW? Nice colour; unfortunately a
> lot of people agreed.
One of the snags of buying secondhand. But it's the first green car I've
owned and it looks great in the sunlight when just washed and polished.
The other 364 days it looks boring.
--
* What do little birdies see when they get knocked unconscious? *
scoff
Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4a8b829a27...@argonet.co.uk...
> Discovered some scratches on the car the other morning - thought they
> were deliberate, but on reflection more likely to be from a kiddie's bike.
>
> I don't think they've gone through the lacquer, but are white in colour
> so very obvious as the car is dark green.
>
> I've found Turtle Wax Extreme fine for small scratches as it includes a
> fine cutting compound, but this would take forever with these - I've tried
> a bit.
>
> I've got a vari-speed random orbit sander with both foam and lambswool
> polishers, but don't know what compound to use - any suggestions
Don't do what I did and polish the lacquer off!!! be careful!
Normal T-cut should do the trick.
Dave Plowman
Well, if this happens before the scratches disappear, then it'll have to
be sorted anyway - I'm not driving it around looking like that.
> Normal T-cut should do the trick.
Never much liked the stuff - Brasso seems as good at a fraction of the
price.
--
* The hardness of the butter is proportional to the softness of the bread *
J.L.E
> In article <9ght5r$8jt0i$1...@ID-93747.news.dfncis.de>,
> scoff <ihat...@getlost.com> wrote:
> > Don't do what I did and polish the lacquer off!!! be careful!
>
> Well, if this happens before the scratches disappear, then it'll
have to
> be sorted anyway - I'm not driving it around looking like that.
>
> > Normal T-cut should do the trick.
>
> Never much liked the stuff - Brasso seems as good at a fraction of
the
> price.
>
And will probably do less harm......... Ask yourself why nearly all
paint-shops don't use T-cut.
Andy MacRae
paint only. It rubs away a coat at a time, on metallic paint the first two
coats are lacquer!!
Use only specified metallic T-Cut. This penetrates under the lacquer to
remove the scratch and blend the paint.
To say again *NEVER* use rubbing compound on Metallic Paint!!
Cheers
Andy MacRae
"J.L.E" <scarts@_mapson_lineone.net> wrote in message
news:tip8ptf...@corp.supernews.co.uk...
Rob Jones
with it
Rob J
Dave Plowman
Andy MacRae <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote:
> *DO NOT* use rubbing compound on metallic paint. It is meant for
> unlaquered paint only. It rubs away a coat at a time, on metallic paint
> the first two coats are lacquer!!
> Use only specified metallic T-Cut. This penetrates under the lacquer to
> remove the scratch and blend the paint.
> To say again *NEVER* use rubbing compound on Metallic Paint!!
Total bollocks. The only way to remove scratches is with some form of
cutting compound, be it T-cut, Brasso, or Farecla. They are all variations
on the same theme - a very fine abrasive powder held in some form of
lubricant. The difference between T-cut normal and T-cut metallic will
only be in the amount of effort required to remove the required amount of
material.
Farecla G3 did the business in a very short time - I can well see that
you have to be careful not to go through the lacquer.
Most *polishes* contain fine cutting compound - you only have to polish a
plain colour car to see some of the paint come off on the cloth.
--
* Letting a cat out of the bag is easier than putting it back in *
stephe...@tenretnitb.moc
"Andy MacRae" <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote:
> *DO NOT* use rubbing compound on metallic paint. It is meant for unlaquered
> paint only. It rubs away a coat at a time, on metallic paint the first two
> coats are lacquer!!
>
> Use only specified metallic T-Cut. This penetrates under the lacquer to
> remove the scratch and blend the paint.
>
> To say again *NEVER* use rubbing compound on Metallic Paint!!
>
> Cheers
> Andy MacRae
>
Where may i ask did you receive this advise from?.
Rubbing compounds are used on nearly all types of vehicle paintwork
either mechanically or by hand, including Cellulose, Acrylic and 2pack
straight colour or lacquered finishes.
You wouldn't see a professional body shop using T-cut on a mechanical
polishing mop when there is a specific compound designed to do the job
more favourably.
Rubbing compounds and polishing compounds all remove minute layers of
paint or lacquer otherwise they just wouldn't work. There are several
grades of rubbing and polishing compounds available for a variety of
different paint finishes including remedial paintwork repairs.
All car body shops will cater for each type of paint finish they
encounter and would choose the correct compound to suit.
What exactly is a specified Metallic T-cut?.
T-cut is just "T-cut" and would be described as a polishing compound if
used on paintwork or a rubbing compound if used on glass.
How can T-cut penetrate under the lacquer to help with blending.
The compound will either remove the scratch totally or enhance the
damaged area even further by creating "rub through", if the latter it
will need spraying anyway.
If car manufactures (according to your advise) don't use rubbing
compounds, then what do they use?.
Andy MacRae
Metallic T-Cut is less abrasive and is suitable for a 2 part finish paint.
This is recommended by people such as Peter Edwards, a professional car
restorer who used to work for Mercedes-Benz. The rubbing compound can be
used on the base colour before the laquar is applied to ensure a better
match. Normal T-Cut or fine rubbing compound is too abrasive after the
laquer is applied.
Andy
<stephe...@tenretnitb.moc> wrote in message
news:ab96478c...@btinternet.com...
Andy MacRae
You do get less abrasive rubbing compounds that are suitable for metallic
paints (3M Fine Cut for example). This must be the difference between normal
TCut and Metallic TCut.
Cheers
Andy
<stephe...@tenretnitb.moc> wrote in message
news:ab96478c...@btinternet.com...
stephe...@tenretnitb.moc
"Andy MacRae" <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote:
> You get standard T-Cut and Metallic T-Cut.
> Metallic T-Cut is less abrasive and is suitable for a 2 part finish paint.
Ok so now i'm aware of two versions of T-cut, Both are fine and quite
possibly too fine for the removal of certain scratches.
> This is recommended by people such as Peter Edwards, a professional car
> restorer who used to work for Mercedes-Benz. The rubbing compound can be
> used on the base colour before the laquar is applied to ensure a better
> match. Normal T-Cut or fine rubbing compound is too abrasive after the
> laquer is applied.
>
You would not need to use any form of compound on a basecoat prior to
lacquering unless the surface is contaminated and how it helps with
colour matching eludes me.
A coarse compound would not be used on cellulose but would be used on
fully cured 2pack that has a tougher characteristic finish including
lacquer.
How can T-cut initially be too abrasive when it's one of the finest
graded compounds available?, it's normal practice to use a finer graded
polishing compound after a coarse compound.
Car body shops don't need to use T-cut when other more suited superior
products are available.
Guy King
from "Andy MacRae" <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> contains these words:
> Use only specified metallic T-Cut. This penetrates under the lacquer to
> remove the scratch and blend the paint.
How the bloody hell does it to that? Is it some sort of chemical pick-pocket?
--
Skipweasel...
You may admire the dust...but please don't write in it.
stephe...@tenretnitb.moc
"Andy MacRae" <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote:
> restorer who used to work for Mercedes-Benz. The rubbing compound can be
> used on the base colour before the laquar is applied to ensure a better
> match. Normal T-Cut or fine rubbing compound is too abrasive after the
> laquer is applied.
>
> Andy
>
at Mercedes Benz.
On the other hand i have firsthand professional information as a
finishing sprayer who formally worked for Rolls Royce Motors.
mchad
:)
<stephe...@tenretnitb.moc> wrote in message
news:2b27528c...@btinternet.com...
J.L.E
Andy MacRae <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:9gj1om$rgc$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com...
> *DO NOT* use rubbing compound on metallic paint. It is meant for
unlaquered
> paint only. It rubs away a coat at a time, on metallic paint the
first two
> coats are lacquer!!
>
> Use only specified metallic T-Cut. This penetrates under the lacquer
to
> remove the scratch and blend the paint.
>
> To say again *NEVER* use rubbing compound on Metallic Paint!!
>
> Cheers
> Andy MacRae
>
What a load of total BOLLOX !
J.L.E
Andy MacRae <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote in message
> You get standard T-Cut and Metallic T-Cut.
> Metallic T-Cut is less abrasive and is suitable for a 2 part finish
paint.
>
> This is recommended by people such as Peter Edwards, a professional
car
> restorer who used to work for Mercedes-Benz. The rubbing compound
can be
> used on the base colour before the laquar is applied to ensure a
better
> match. Normal T-Cut or fine rubbing compound is too abrasive after
the
> laquer is applied.
>
If that is the advise given out by this Mr Edwards I can see why he /
used / to work for Mercedes-Benz..............
Again you are talking Bollox.
Glenn
Andy MacRae <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote in message
> *DO NOT* use rubbing compound on metallic paint. It is meant for
unlaquered
> paint only. It rubs away a coat at a time, on metallic paint the first two
> coats are lacquer!!
>
> Use only specified metallic T-Cut. This penetrates under the lacquer to
> remove the scratch and blend the paint.
>
> To say again *NEVER* use rubbing compound on Metallic Paint!!
>
> Cheers
> Andy MacRae
>
what a load of crap
Use G3 its great stuff, ive been using it for ages, works great on paint and
lacquer
> penetrates under the lacquer
hahahaha ROFLOL
Andy MacRae
I have obviously been misinformed by someone I reckoned knew their stuff. I
stand corrected, Thank you.
Some rubbing compounds are too abrasive and not recommended for metallics. I
was under the impression that they all were unsuitable and didn't want to
see someone spoil their paintwork.
Cheers
Andy
"Glenn" <g.s...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:9gljtt$f8i$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com...
Glenn
didn't mean to rub it in ;)
LOL
geddit .... rub it in ;)
........ill get me coat
Andy MacRae
"Glenn" <g.s...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:9glqq9$ppp$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com...
Dave Plowman
mchad <chad...@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote:
> what are these more superior products, and can i get some
See the rest of the thread.
--
* When companies ship Styrofoam, what do they pack it in? *
Dave Plowman
Andy MacRae <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote:
> Sorry, talking out of my behind *eats words with a dollop of jam*
> You do get less abrasive rubbing compounds that are suitable for
> metallic paints (3M Fine Cut for example). This must be the difference
> between normal TCut and Metallic TCut.
You're not reading replys, are you?
A polished finish on pretty well anything is a series of *minute*
'scratches' alined to reflect the light. So, to produce a shine on, say,
steel, you start with a coarse abrasive to 'smooth' the surface and
gradually work down to a fine grade which gives the shine. You *could* use
the fine only, but it would take much more time and effort.
--
* Pentium wise, pen and paper foolish *
Andy MacRae
Thank you
"J.L.E" <scarts@_mapson_lineone.net> wrote in message
news:tiskk4t...@corp.supernews.co.uk...
Dan
> What exactly is a specified Metallic T-cut?.
It's just a finer abrasive than the normal one AFAIK. Perhaps they think
it's too easy to go through with the normal grade or the lacquer shows up
scratches worse. It's also possible that ordinary T-Cut contains something
that attacks the lacquer but that's only a blind guess. I've used it on a
metallic paint and the world didn't end.
Dan
> Some rubbing compounds are too abrasive and not recommended for metallics. I
> was under the impression that they all were unsuitable and didn't want to
> see someone spoil their paintwork.
You can sandpaper the damned stuff so long as you polish it afterwards.
J.L.E
Andy MacRae <andyd...@SPAMbtinternet.com> wrote in message
I did / after / writing my reply, everyone was saying the same !
--
"I never have problems with Windows, only Disasters....."
If replying by e-mail, remember to remove the Spam blocker.
J.L.E
Dan <d.c.b...@durham.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:3B2E9AAA...@dur.ac.uk...
> Andy MacRae wrote:
> > Some rubbing compounds are too abrasive and not recommended for
metallics. I
> > was under the impression that they all were unsuitable and didn't
want to
> > see someone spoil their paintwork.
>
> You can sandpaper the damned stuff so long as you polish it
afterwards.
>
Quite... I walked trough my mates paint-shop the other day and that
was what they were doing, well not using sandpaper but Wet 'N' Dry, to
wet flat. This on something that takes a week to paint (inc. one full
day to do the final air brushing) and this on something that is worth
(and costs) more than most 'better off' people spend on there house
(or indeed houses !).........
stephe...@tenretnitb.moc
"J.L.E" <scarts@_mapson_lineone.net> wrote:
>> You can sandpaper the damned stuff so long as you polish it
>> afterwards.
>Quite... I walked trough my mates paint-shop the other day and that
>was what they were doing, well not using sandpaper but Wet 'N' Dry, to
>wet flat. This on something that takes a week to paint (inc. one full
>day to do the final air brushing) and this on something that is worth
>(and costs) more than most 'better off' people spend on there house
>(or indeed houses !).........
Absolutely correct!
It's not uncommon to wet flat a complete vehicle and then machine polish
to obtain a super glass like finish.
Usually only applicable on darker colours though.
Steve.
--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
1970 IIa, 2.2, SWB T/Cab & R/Top
StrongArm Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Glenn
> to obtain a super glass like finish.
> Usually only applicable on darker colours though.
>
> Steve.
agreed...
Ive done this on most of my cars after re-spraying them.
does give you an amazing finish, shines like a mirror when clean. ;)