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Meriva keeps blowing bulbs
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Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 10, 2015, 9:36:57 AM12/10/15
to
My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
Chris Whelan
Dec 10, 2015, 9:41:51 AM12/10/15
to
Then do the same for the earth strap(s) where they are bolted to the engine
and bodywork.
As you have asked if there is any way of testing, I can assume you don't
have access to an accurate multi-meter, but a check of the voltage would be
the next step.
Chris
--
Remove prejudice to reply.
Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 10, 2015, 9:54:40 AM12/10/15
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Chris Whelan
Dec 10, 2015, 10:19:57 AM12/10/15
to
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
[...]
> I do have a multimeter which is accurate enough for this, I think. It's a
> digital one, so it's a bit hard to read if the voltage changes a lot :-)
> How high can the voltage get if the regulator isn't working? I'm assuming
> it should never reach, say, 15V, but maybe there's no way it would do that
> even with a broken regulator.
The voltage regulator is a solid state device, and fairly unlikely to allow
random, short spikes. It's possible, but doubtful. It's much more likely an
intermittent connection is the cause of your problem.
Measure the battery voltage when fully charged, but not running; it should
of the order of 12.6v. Compare it to the value you get when running. That
will help eliminate any meter inaccuracy; you will be looking at the offset.
As you assume, anything over 15v would be a cause for concern.
FYI, 'posh' multimeters have both an analogue bar display and a peak hold
function to help with this sort of fault-finding. Out of the price range of
most home mechanics however!
[...]
> I do have a multimeter which is accurate enough for this, I think. It's a
> digital one, so it's a bit hard to read if the voltage changes a lot :-)
> How high can the voltage get if the regulator isn't working? I'm assuming
> it should never reach, say, 15V, but maybe there's no way it would do that
> even with a broken regulator.
random, short spikes. It's possible, but doubtful. It's much more likely an
intermittent connection is the cause of your problem.
Measure the battery voltage when fully charged, but not running; it should
of the order of 12.6v. Compare it to the value you get when running. That
will help eliminate any meter inaccuracy; you will be looking at the offset.
As you assume, anything over 15v would be a cause for concern.
FYI, 'posh' multimeters have both an analogue bar display and a peak hold
function to help with this sort of fault-finding. Out of the price range of
most home mechanics however!
Norman Rowing
Dec 10, 2015, 12:06:56 PM12/10/15
to
On 10/12/2015 14:36, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>
1st is that if you are using cheap bulbs you cannot expect them to last.
> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>
The silvery black sounds like you are indeed using boot sale type bulbs.
All you need is a multi meter plugged into the cigar lighter and keep an
eye on it. Anything over 14.2V is suspect.
Chris Whelan
Dec 10, 2015, 1:18:28 PM12/10/15
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Norman Rowing wrote:
[...]
> All you need is a multi meter plugged into the cigar lighter and keep an
> eye on it. Anything over 14.2V is suspect.
I don't know about the Meriva, but many cars now use more sophisticated
charging than formerly. For example, Ford use the unimaginatively-named
Smart Charge. When coupled with the correct silver technology battery, 15v
will often be seen after a cold start and with a battery that is not fully
charged.
[...]
> All you need is a multi meter plugged into the cigar lighter and keep an
> eye on it. Anything over 14.2V is suspect.
charging than formerly. For example, Ford use the unimaginatively-named
Smart Charge. When coupled with the correct silver technology battery, 15v
will often be seen after a cold start and with a battery that is not fully
charged.
Norman Rowing
Dec 10, 2015, 2:04:54 PM12/10/15
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turned on.
Mr Pounder Esquire
Dec 10, 2015, 2:49:42 PM12/10/15
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I've done this and it seems that it is a "very common mistake".
My garage man told me this.
Tim+
Dec 10, 2015, 3:45:14 PM12/10/15
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Norman Rowing <gee...@virgin.net> wrote:
> On 10/12/2015 14:36, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
>> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and
>> rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown,
>> they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be
>> the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there
>> any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery
>> terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>>
>
> 1st is that if you are using cheap bulbs you cannot expect them to last.
> The silvery black sounds like you are indeed using boot sale type bulbs.
Don't see how you can draw that conclusion. Often seen that in blown bulbs
> On 10/12/2015 14:36, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
>> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and
>> rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown,
>> they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be
>> the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there
>> any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery
>> terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>>
>
> 1st is that if you are using cheap bulbs you cannot expect them to last.
> The silvery black sounds like you are indeed using boot sale type bulbs.
of reputable brand.
Tim
steve robinson
Dec 10, 2015, 4:41:33 PM12/10/15
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On Thu, 10 Dec 2015 20:42:44 -0000 (UTC), Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Touching the glass of the lamps can cause premature failure with some
types off lamp
When you start the car do so with the lights off feet off the brake
peddle, its possible your getting a power surge when you start the
vehicle.
Check the battery , earth connections, and all the relevant plastic
electrical sockets for loose or corroded connections , check the
alternator output too under load
wrote:
types off lamp
When you start the car do so with the lights off feet off the brake
peddle, its possible your getting a power surge when you start the
vehicle.
Check the battery , earth connections, and all the relevant plastic
electrical sockets for loose or corroded connections , check the
alternator output too under load
Norman Rowing
Dec 10, 2015, 5:13:09 PM12/10/15
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which on a better quality bulb should not happen so easily as the
Tungsten is purer.
Tim+
Dec 10, 2015, 5:23:35 PM12/10/15
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while as it breaks, you get a lots of silver deposits. Still, happy to be
proved wrong if you can provide any links to support your suggestion.
Tim
Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 11, 2015, 5:19:11 AM12/11/15
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On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 2:36:57 PM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
Okay, thanks all. When she brings it round at the weekend, I'll have a bit more information to work with.
> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
newshound
Dec 11, 2015, 7:00:43 AM12/11/15
to
socket; sensitive to 0.1 volt but needs calibrating against a good DVM
for accuracy. Occasionally very handy for checking suspect battery or
alternator faults.
Norman Rowing
Dec 11, 2015, 7:51:43 AM12/11/15
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On 10/12/2015 14:36, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>
Chris Whelan
Dec 11, 2015, 8:29:52 AM12/11/15
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Norman Rowing wrote:
[...]
> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
[...]
> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
Norman Rowing
Dec 11, 2015, 8:50:31 AM12/11/15
to
On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
> Norman Rowing wrote:
>
> [...]
>
>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>
> What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>
> Chris
>
Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
> Norman Rowing wrote:
>
> [...]
>
>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>
> What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>
> Chris
>
Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
Demonstrates what I said about buying cheapo bulbs.
Chris Whelan
Dec 11, 2015, 9:10:50 AM12/11/15
to
Norman Rowing wrote:
> On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>
>> [...]
>>
>>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>>
>> What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
>> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>>
>> Chris
>>
>
> Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
> Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
> On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>
>> [...]
>>
>>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>>
>> What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
>> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>>
>> Chris
>>
>
> Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
> Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
Car bulbs suffer significant frequent shock loadings.
Home light bulbs don't.
Car light bulbs no in-built fuse.
Home light bulbs have in-built fuse.
> Demonstrates what I said about buying cheapo bulbs.
The author of that article states, without any source, that cheap bulbs blow
more frequently. You have stated, without any source, that cheap bulbs blow
more frequently. Although that might be so, where is the proof?
It's hard to accept anything in that article as meaningful; the writer
completely misunderstands what causes supply circuit breakers to sometimes
trip on lamp failure, and is corrected by 'another user'.
One other point; one can assume that VX didn't fit cheap bulbs in
production, so why did a number of them blow in the first place?
Chris Whelan
Dec 11, 2015, 9:12:59 AM12/11/15
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Chris Whelan wrote:
[..]
> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
*230vac*
(Curse this 20th Century brain!)
[..]
> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
(Curse this 20th Century brain!)
Norman Rowing
Dec 11, 2015, 10:19:45 AM12/11/15
to
On 11/12/2015 14:10, Chris Whelan wrote:
> Norman Rowing wrote:
>
>> On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
>>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>>
>>> [...]
>>>
>>>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>>>
>>> What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
>>> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>
>> Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
>> Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
>
> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
>
Irrelevant
> Norman Rowing wrote:
>
>> On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
>>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>>
>>> [...]
>>>
>>>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>>>
>>> What relevance does the information in that link about household lighting
>>> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>
>> Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
>> Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
>
> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
>
> Car bulbs suffer significant frequent shock loadings.
> Home light bulbs don't.
>
> Car light bulbs no in-built fuse.
> Home light bulbs have in-built fuse.
>
>> Demonstrates what I said about buying cheapo bulbs.
>
> No it doesn't.
>
the same standard as a Philips/Osram bulb. I'd lay money on cheap bulbs
probably being at the route of the OP's problem.
> The author of that article states, without any source, that cheap bulbs blow
> more frequently. You have stated, without any source, that cheap bulbs blow
> more frequently. Although that might be so, where is the proof?
>
> It's hard to accept anything in that article as meaningful; the writer
> completely misunderstands what causes supply circuit breakers to sometimes
> trip on lamp failure, and is corrected by 'another user'.
>
out. That is what it is designed to do after all.
> One other point; one can assume that VX didn't fit cheap bulbs in
> production, so why did a number of them blow in the first place?
>
about fitting after market bulbs.
> Chris
>
Mrcheerful
Dec 11, 2015, 11:19:26 AM12/11/15
to
On 11/12/2015 15:19, Norman Rowing wrote:
> On 11/12/2015 14:10, Chris Whelan wrote:
>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
>>>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>>>
>>>> [...]
>>>>
>>>>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>>>>
>>>> What relevance does the information in that link about household
>>>> lighting
>>>> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>
>>> Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
>>> Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
>>
>> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
>> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
>>
>
> Irrelevant
>
>> Car bulbs suffer significant frequent shock loadings.
>> Home light bulbs don't.
>>
>> Car light bulbs no in-built fuse.
>> Home light bulbs have in-built fuse.
>>
>
> Incandescent bulbs? You sure?
>
Oh yes, and sometimes the fuse blows and disconnects the cap from the
> On 11/12/2015 14:10, Chris Whelan wrote:
>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/12/2015 13:29, Chris Whelan wrote:
>>>> Norman Rowing wrote:
>>>>
>>>> [...]
>>>>
>>>>> http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/bulbs.htm
>>>>
>>>> What relevance does the information in that link about household
>>>> lighting
>>>> have to the problem the OP has with a motor vehicle?
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>
>>> Car bulbs: Tungsten filament
>>> Home light bulbs: Tungsten filament
>>
>> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
>> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
>>
>
> Irrelevant
>
>> Car bulbs suffer significant frequent shock loadings.
>> Home light bulbs don't.
>>
>> Car light bulbs no in-built fuse.
>> Home light bulbs have in-built fuse.
>>
>
> Incandescent bulbs? You sure?
>
glass, which is inconvenient to say the least, especially when they are
celing mounted vertical spots (Osram)
Chris Whelan
Dec 11, 2015, 11:21:39 AM12/11/15
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Norman Rowing wrote:
[...]
>> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
>> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
>>
>
> Irrelevant
So are you saying that the much greater voltage variation car bulbs are
subject to does not require them to be constructed completely differently?
Because I can assure you that they are, and if you research it you will see
how.
>> Car bulbs suffer significant frequent shock loadings.
>> Home light bulbs don't.
>>
>> Car light bulbs no in-built fuse.
>> Home light bulbs have in-built fuse.
>>
>
> Incandescent bulbs? You sure?
Am I sure that mains-voltage lamps have an in-built fuse? Yep:
http://www.thelia.org.uk/lighting-guides/lamp-guide/incandescent/
Omission of that fuse in cheap imported filament lamps is one of the reasons
for nuisance tripping of circuit protection upon filament failure.
>>> Demonstrates what I said about buying cheapo bulbs.
>>
>> No it doesn't.
>>
>
> You are telling me that a 50p boot sale made-in-Chrina bulb is made to
> the same standard as a Philips/Osram bulb. I'd lay money on cheap bulbs
> probably being at the route of the OP's problem.
No I'm not; I'm telling you that a badly-written inaccurate article picked
at random from Google's results proves nothing either way.
>> The author of that article states, without any source, that cheap bulbs
>> blow more frequently. You have stated, without any source, that cheap
>> bulbs blow more frequently. Although that might be so, where is the
>> proof?
>>
>
> The proof is in the OPs experience.
(Re-reads thread): No, I can't see were the OP said he used cheap bulbs.
Care to remind me?
>> It's hard to accept anything in that article as meaningful; the writer
>> completely misunderstands what causes supply circuit breakers to
>> sometimes trip on lamp failure, and is corrected by 'another user'.
>>
>
> A surge from the arcing of a filament going o/c may well knock the ECB
> out.
ECB?
The filament 'arcing' is *not* what causes the circuit protective device to
operate. Read further down the article where the writer is corrected.
Essentially, it's caused by pieces of blown filament shorting across the
filament supports.
> That is what it is designed to do after all.
No it isn't. It's purpose is to protect the *circuit*, not necessarily the
lamp.
>> One other point; one can assume that VX didn't fit cheap bulbs in
>> production, so why did a number of them blow in the first place?
>>
>
> You assume the OP had the car from new and no tit has been mucking
> about fitting after market bulbs.
The vehicle is less than 9 years old.
My last car that I had from new I kept until it was 10 years old with 100k
on it. Total bulb failure in that time was 1 brake light.
My present car was purchased at six years old; it is now twelve years old.
Total bulb failure in my ownership is two high-level brake light bulbs.
The OP is having to replace bulbs almost every week. That does not suggest
'dodgy bulbs' as the cause to me.
[...]
>> Car bulbs supply voltage 11 to 15vdc
>> Home light bulbs supply voltage 240vac +10% -6%
>>
>
> Irrelevant
subject to does not require them to be constructed completely differently?
Because I can assure you that they are, and if you research it you will see
how.
>> Car bulbs suffer significant frequent shock loadings.
>> Home light bulbs don't.
>>
>> Car light bulbs no in-built fuse.
>> Home light bulbs have in-built fuse.
>>
>
> Incandescent bulbs? You sure?
http://www.thelia.org.uk/lighting-guides/lamp-guide/incandescent/
Omission of that fuse in cheap imported filament lamps is one of the reasons
for nuisance tripping of circuit protection upon filament failure.
>>> Demonstrates what I said about buying cheapo bulbs.
>>
>> No it doesn't.
>>
>
> You are telling me that a 50p boot sale made-in-Chrina bulb is made to
> the same standard as a Philips/Osram bulb. I'd lay money on cheap bulbs
> probably being at the route of the OP's problem.
at random from Google's results proves nothing either way.
>> The author of that article states, without any source, that cheap bulbs
>> blow more frequently. You have stated, without any source, that cheap
>> bulbs blow more frequently. Although that might be so, where is the
>> proof?
>>
>
> The proof is in the OPs experience.
Care to remind me?
>> It's hard to accept anything in that article as meaningful; the writer
>> completely misunderstands what causes supply circuit breakers to
>> sometimes trip on lamp failure, and is corrected by 'another user'.
>>
>
> A surge from the arcing of a filament going o/c may well knock the ECB
> out.
The filament 'arcing' is *not* what causes the circuit protective device to
operate. Read further down the article where the writer is corrected.
Essentially, it's caused by pieces of blown filament shorting across the
filament supports.
> That is what it is designed to do after all.
lamp.
>> One other point; one can assume that VX didn't fit cheap bulbs in
>> production, so why did a number of them blow in the first place?
>>
>
> You assume the OP had the car from new and no tit has been mucking
> about fitting after market bulbs.
My last car that I had from new I kept until it was 10 years old with 100k
on it. Total bulb failure in that time was 1 brake light.
My present car was purchased at six years old; it is now twelve years old.
Total bulb failure in my ownership is two high-level brake light bulbs.
The OP is having to replace bulbs almost every week. That does not suggest
'dodgy bulbs' as the cause to me.
Norman Rowing
Dec 11, 2015, 11:37:36 AM12/11/15
to
several times but with what?
> My last car that I had from new I kept until it was 10 years old with 100k
> on it. Total bulb failure in that time was 1 brake light.
>
quality cheapo bulbs
> My present car was purchased at six years old; it is now twelve years old.
> Total bulb failure in my ownership is two high-level brake light bulbs.
>
> The OP is having to replace bulbs almost every week. That does not suggest
> 'dodgy bulbs' as the cause to me.
>
off IMHO starting off by replacing the bulbs with Osrams or Philips and
see if they still blow. (Assuming the voltage is indeed solid)
> Chris
>
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 11, 2015, 12:07:41 PM12/11/15
to
In article <157e7b35-e885-4fe2...@googlegroups.com>,
When things settle down on both my cars - ie battery pretty well fully
charged - they both read 13.8v. Which is theoretically correct.
--
*Since light travels faster than sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Dan S. MacAbre <goo...@leederbyshire.com> wrote:
> I do have a multimeter which is accurate enough for this, I think. It's
> a digital one, so it's a bit hard to read if the voltage changes a lot
> :-) How high can the voltage get if the regulator isn't working? I'm
> assuming it should never reach, say, 15V, but maybe there's no way it
> would do that even with a broken regulator.
Oh it will. With the alternator turned hard on I've seen over 16 volts.
> I do have a multimeter which is accurate enough for this, I think. It's
> a digital one, so it's a bit hard to read if the voltage changes a lot
> :-) How high can the voltage get if the regulator isn't working? I'm
> assuming it should never reach, say, 15V, but maybe there's no way it
> would do that even with a broken regulator.
When things settle down on both my cars - ie battery pretty well fully
charged - they both read 13.8v. Which is theoretically correct.
--
*Since light travels faster than sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Chris Whelan
Dec 13, 2015, 5:03:42 AM12/13/15
to
First thing to do is to remove and thoroughly clean the battery terminals.
Then do the same for the earth strap(s) where they are bolted to the engine
and bodywork.
As you have asked if there is any way of testing, I can assume you don't
have access to an accurate multi-meter, but a check of the voltage would be
the next step.
Then do the same for the earth strap(s) where they are bolted to the engine
and bodywork.
As you have asked if there is any way of testing, I can assume you don't
have access to an accurate multi-meter, but a check of the voltage would be
the next step.
Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 16, 2015, 6:37:20 AM12/16/15
to
On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 2:36:57 PM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on something else.
newshound
Dec 16, 2015, 7:13:28 AM12/16/15
to
on those circuits, not why it should cause front bulbs to blow. Are you
suggesting that the voltage dip on that circuit causes the alternator
and/or regulator to increase the output voltage to try to compensate?
Norman Rowing
Dec 16, 2015, 7:15:52 AM12/16/15
to
On 16/12/2015 11:37, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Mrcheerful
Dec 16, 2015, 7:49:45 AM12/16/15
to
Chris Whelan
Dec 16, 2015, 8:12:58 AM12/16/15
to
Mrcheerful wrote:
[...]
>>> Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the
>>> lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of
>>> the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have
>>> been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on
>>> something else.
>>>
>>
>> How would that blow bulbs?
>>
>>
>
> repeated flashing on and off?
Maybe, but the OP mentioned that front and rear bulbs were blowing, and I
can't see how the broken wire in the rear would affect the front bulbs.
[...]
>>> Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the
>>> lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of
>>> the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have
>>> been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on
>>> something else.
>>>
>>
>> How would that blow bulbs?
>>
>>
>
> repeated flashing on and off?
can't see how the broken wire in the rear would affect the front bulbs.
Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 16, 2015, 8:25:49 AM12/16/15
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Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 16, 2015, 8:27:21 AM12/16/15
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Norman Rowing
Dec 16, 2015, 9:05:58 AM12/16/15
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Norman Rowing
Dec 16, 2015, 9:07:38 AM12/16/15
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On 16/12/2015 13:25, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 12:13:28 PM UTC, newshound wrote:
>> On 16/12/2015 11:37, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
>>> On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 2:36:57 PM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
>>>> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>>>
>>> Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on something else.
>>>
>> Am I missing something? I can see why this might keep blowing the fuse
>> on those circuits, not why it should cause front bulbs to blow. Are you
>> suggesting that the voltage dip on that circuit causes the alternator
>> and/or regulator to increase the output voltage to try to compensate?
>
> I forgot to mention that on this occasion the bulbs were okay, but the fuse had blown.
Ah, now we get somewhere. I bet you don't have the old bulbs that you
> On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 12:13:28 PM UTC, newshound wrote:
>> On 16/12/2015 11:37, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
>>> On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 2:36:57 PM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
>>>> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
>>>
>>> Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on something else.
>>>
>> Am I missing something? I can see why this might keep blowing the fuse
>> on those circuits, not why it should cause front bulbs to blow. Are you
>> suggesting that the voltage dip on that circuit causes the alternator
>> and/or regulator to increase the output voltage to try to compensate?
>
> I forgot to mention that on this occasion the bulbs were okay, but the fuse had blown.
accused of being blown?
Dan S. MacAbre
Dec 16, 2015, 9:18:17 AM12/16/15
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On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 2:07:38 PM UTC, Norman Rowing wrote:
> On 16/12/2015 13:25, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> > On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 12:13:28 PM UTC, newshound wrote:
> >> On 16/12/2015 11:37, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> >>> On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 2:36:57 PM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> >>>> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
> >>>
> >>> Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on something else.
> >>>
> >> Am I missing something? I can see why this might keep blowing the fuse
> >> on those circuits, not why it should cause front bulbs to blow. Are you
> >> suggesting that the voltage dip on that circuit causes the alternator
> >> and/or regulator to increase the output voltage to try to compensate?
> >
> > I forgot to mention that on this occasion the bulbs were okay, but the fuse had blown.
>
> Ah, now we get somewhere. I bet you don't have the old bulbs that you
> accused of being blown?
>
>
No, but they were replaced, and the replacements worked. And they did tend to have that silvery blackened glass appearance, so I didn't question that they were blown. Normally, I'd have a look at the filament, to see if it was just the case that the contact point needed cleaning, which I find is nearly always the case.
> On 16/12/2015 13:25, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> > On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 12:13:28 PM UTC, newshound wrote:
> >> On 16/12/2015 11:37, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> >>> On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 2:36:57 PM UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
> >>>> My sister's 2005 Meriva is getting through a lot of bulbs, front and rear. Almost every week, something is going. When they've blown, they've usually gone that silvery-black colour, too. Is it going to be the voltage regulator, which is the only thing I can think of? Is there any way of testing it? Will the voltage present at, say, the battery terminals be higher than usual, which I think is something like 14 volts?
> >>>
> >>> Finally got to the bottom of it. It was the cable that links the lights in the rear hatch to the main car body. It had popped out of the protective rubber conduit, and rubbed on the body. Should have been the first place I looked, really, because I'd seen it before on something else.
> >>>
> >> Am I missing something? I can see why this might keep blowing the fuse
> >> on those circuits, not why it should cause front bulbs to blow. Are you
> >> suggesting that the voltage dip on that circuit causes the alternator
> >> and/or regulator to increase the output voltage to try to compensate?
> >
> > I forgot to mention that on this occasion the bulbs were okay, but the fuse had blown.
>
> Ah, now we get somewhere. I bet you don't have the old bulbs that you
> accused of being blown?
>
>
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 16, 2015, 1:21:35 PM12/16/15
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In article <j5dcy.907463$941.4...@fx34.am4>,
the flashers would be a problem. ;-)
--
*Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy *
Mrcheerful <g.odon...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> > How would that blow bulbs?
> >
> >
> repeated flashing on and off?
Doesn't actually seem to make much difference with car bulbs. Otherwise
> > How would that blow bulbs?
> >
> >
> repeated flashing on and off?
the flashers would be a problem. ;-)
--
*Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy *
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