Can braided,flexible brake lines replace copper pipe?
A.Lee
foot long, and is rather tortuous in its path, so much so, that I'm not
sure if it is possible to replace it without dismantling anything that
is bolted on that side of the van.
A thought occured, could braided flexible lines, as used on motorcycles,
be used in place of this length of copper pipe?
If not, what is the best course of action to replace the pipe?
Take old one off, get a pattern made?
Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to
get it in place when re-fitting?
Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out
the corroded 3 foot of the pipe?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
Paul
Invariably 99% of failures i've had with 'corroded' brake pipes pass
after you have brushed the 'corrosion' off...
Duncan Wood
> My van has failed its MOT today on a corroded brake line. It is around 6
> foot long, and is rather tortuous in its path, so much so, that I'm not
> sure if it is possible to replace it without dismantling anything that
> is bolted on that side of the van.
> A thought occured, could braided flexible lines, as used on motorcycles,
> be used in place of this length of copper pipe?
>
Yes, but it'll be expensive & springier
> If not, what is the best course of action to replace the pipe?
> Take old one off, get a pattern made?
> Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to
> get it in place when re-fitting?
> Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out
> the corroded 3 foot of the pipe?
>
That's how I do it.
asahartz
wrote:
And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
--
asahartz woz ere
asahartz
Perfectly acceptable. But if it's original pipe it's probably steel;
flaring that in situ is not easy. You'll need a good quality flaring
tool; the cheap ones from Machine Mart etc will manage copper but not
steel.
--
asahartz woz ere
Paul
>>>
>> wire brush it.
>>
>> Invariably 99% of failures i've had with 'corroded' brake pipes pass
>> after you have brushed the 'corrosion' off...
>
> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>
> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
If its good enough for a picky MOT tester, its good enough for me - he
sees 1000 x as many as me.
I've never had a 'corroded brake pipe' fail any subsequent MOT, nor fail
in any shape or form either.
Conor
says...
> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>
Copper brakepipes don't corrode.....
> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
Yes, steel ones.
--
Conor
www.notebooks-r-us.co.uk
I'm not prejudiced. I hate everybody equally.
Mrcheerful
copper pipes will not corrode
Duncan Wood
> In article <k6sdg5595lmme14qc...@4ax.com>, asahartz
> says...
>
>> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
>> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>>
> Copper brakepipes don't corrode.....
>
What's the green stuff at the joints then?
>> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
>> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
>
> Yes, steel ones.
>
>
Which is almost all OEM ones
Duncan Wood
wrote:
> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:54:53 -0000, "Duncan Wood"
> <nntp...@dmx512.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:13:17 -0000, A.Lee <alan@darkroom.+.com> wrote:
>>
>
>>> Cut it, if needed into 2 or 3 bits, then have joints at the breaks to
>>> get it in place when re-fitting?
>>> Or go and buy a flaring kit, and bender and DIY in situ by cutting out
>>> the corroded 3 foot of the pipe?
>>>
>>
>> That's how I do it.
>>
> Perfectly acceptable. But if it's original pipe it's probably steel;
> flaring that in situ is not easy. You'll need a good quality flaring
> tool; the cheap ones from Machine Mart etc will manage copper but not
> steel.
Good point, I did pay real money for this kit.
Miike G
"Conor" <co...@gmx.co.uk> wrote in message
news:MPG.257134be9...@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <k6sdg5595lmme14qc...@4ax.com>, asahartz
> says...
>
>> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
>> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>>
> Copper brakepipes don't corrode.
I wouldn't recommend anyone to fit copper brake pipes.
IMO thy are potentially dangerous
Copper pipes can age harden and fracture, especially if subjected to
vibration..
Cupro-nickel brake pipes, such as Kunifer, also don't corrode, and don't
suffer from age hardening or cracking.
Mike. .
Conor
>
> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:21:06 -0000, Conor <co...@gmx.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > In article <k6sdg5595lmme14qc...@4ax.com>, asahartz
> > says...
> >
> >> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
> >> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
> >>
> > Copper brakepipes don't corrode.....
> >
>
> What's the green stuff at the joints then?
>
> >> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
> >> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
> >
> > Yes, steel ones.
> >
> >
>
> Which is almost all OEM ones
Shouldn't be.
Conor
> Cupro-nickel brake pipes, such as Kunifer, also don't corrode, and don't
> suffer from age hardening or cracking.
> Mike. .
And Cupro Nickel are commonly referred to as copper due to their
colour.....
Duncan Wood
> In article <op.u3p4noa4haghkf@lucy>, Duncan Wood says...
>>
>> On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:21:06 -0000, Conor <co...@gmx.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> > In article <k6sdg5595lmme14qc...@4ax.com>, asahartz
>> > says...
>> >
>> >> And you feel safe with that? Surface corrosion is a sign of real
>> >> corrosion, and it only takes a pinhole...
>> >>
>> > Copper brakepipes don't corrode.....
>> >
>>
>> What's the green stuff at the joints then?
>>
> Oxidisation. They don't rust like steel ones.
>
>> >> I've often removed brake pipes with apparent surface corrosion which
>> >> have fallen apart in my hands afterwards!
>> >
>> > Yes, steel ones.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Which is almost all OEM ones
>
> Shouldn't be.
>
>
What shouldn't be?
Conor
>
> What shouldn't be?
Mftrs still using steel brake pipes.
A bit anecdotal...
I've just sold a Capri. 24 years old still on the original brake pipes.
This feat was achieved by liberally coating them in grease.
Pete M
> In article <7mphcsF...@mid.individual.net>, Miike G says...
>
>> Cupro-nickel brake pipes, such as Kunifer, also don't corrode, and don't
>> suffer from age hardening or cracking.
>> Mike. .
>
> And Cupro Nickel are commonly referred to as copper due to their
> colour.....
Kunifer I have no problem using. Copper I would never use.
--
Pete M - OMF#9
'62 Rover P4 100
'61 Rover P5 3 litre
'78 Escort 1300 Sport
'99 Audi A6 V6 Quattro Avant
"It's an Alfa, it will go wrong, it will piss you off, why should your
Alfa experience be different from everyone else's.
Now get back out there and swear at it before something else breaks."
Miike G
> In article <7mphcsF...@mid.individual.net>, Miike G says...
>
>> Cupro-nickel brake pipes, such as Kunifer, also don't corrode, and don't
>> suffer from age hardening or cracking.
>> Mike. .
>
> And Cupro Nickel are commonly referred to as copper due to their
> colour.....
Only by those who don't know the difference. Anyone who does would never
confuse copper with Cupro-nickel. The colours are totally different.
As copper brake piping is still being sold, it's important IMO to point out
that Cupro-nickel is a nuch more suitable material for brake pipes, and the
two materials shouldn't be confused.
Mike.
Clint Sharp
<co...@gmx.co.uk> writes
>> What's the green stuff at the joints then?
>>
>Oxidisation. They don't rust like steel ones.
>
evidence of exposure to something corrosive or an electrolytic reaction.
Rust is oxidized steel.
--
Clint Sharp
Duncan Wood
It depends which copper oxide it is, copper roofs generally go green.
Clint Sharp
writes>> Rust is oxidized steel.
Minor correction, rust is oxidised iron, my mistake...
>
>It depends which copper oxide it is, copper roofs generally go green.
to CO2 dissolved in rainwater (carbonic acid) but the stuff you see on
most modern buildings has been 'helped' to form by the application of
various chemicals so the composition of the green stuff may vary.
--
Clint Sharp
Duncan Wood
<cl...@clintsmc.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In message <op.u3vkqoyyhaghkf@lucy>, Duncan Wood <nntp...@dmx512.co.uk>
> writes
>> On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:27:10 -0000, Clint Sharp
>> <cl...@clintsmc.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>>> Rust is oxidized steel.
> Minor correction, rust is oxidised iron, my mistake...
>>
>> It depends which copper oxide it is, copper roofs generally go green.
> That's usually copper carbonate, not an oxide, it's created by exposure
> to CO2 dissolved in rainwater (carbonic acid) but the stuff you see on
> most modern buildings has been 'helped' to form by the application of
> various chemicals so the composition of the green stuff may vary.
>
Yes and carbon dioxide also exists at ground level. The old green stuff's
50:50 carbonate & hydroxide.