Jaguar E Type problem
John Lowe
Problem with "conking out" when warm/hot.
Starts from cold superbly but after about 20 mins or so running, (whilst
static), the exhaust starts to "splash" and when I blip the throttle it
nearly dies . Sometimes I can rev through the "nearly dying" stage and it
revs fine but when I let it tickover again and blip the throttle agian it
nearly dies. Ultimately it will die. It is then impossible to start until
the temp falls.
Why should this be?
There is a spark at the plugs immediately after it dies so seems to be a
fuel problem. Checked fuel pump...seems to OK... fuel gushes out when I
disconnect the fuel line.
Have tried many things....
New coil, plugs , condenser, points, leads, dist. cap.
Thought I had cracked it when I found fuel filler cap causing a vacuum in
tank...drilled breather hole in cap.
Have tried setting up carbs but still no good. ( Not too sure what the
slow-running screw on the SU carbs does...could this be a pointer?)
Exhaust note is very good when warming up , maybe gets a little "spashy"
when hot, (too weak). Have tried making it richer but plugs get fouled up..
Am really stuck....I feel it is a fuel problem as there is a spark at the
plugs immediately after conking out.
Has anybody got any ideas as to what I can try?
many thanks for any help.
John Lowe UK
Andrew Wheeldon
John Lowe <jon...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
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was designed to idle for 20 min. That's a really long time. Not only is
there no air being pushed through the rad by the forward motion of the car
but, if it is idling, the water pump won't be working efficiently either,
this may cause hot spots particularly at the back of the engine where water
circulation is sluggish at the best of times. You could also be over heating
your carbs of fuel lines causing vapour locks. Do you get these symptoms
after taking it for a run?
Andy.
>
>
Simon Hartshorne
Triumphs from this period have and they're rubbish. The idea is that the wax
melts at temperature and changes the mixture to suit hot running. Except that
it invariably makes things worse.
Dave Plowman
I'd bet quids it's fuel evaporation. Unleaded is much worse than 4-star
for some reason. Check all the heatshields are in place and the pipe lines
in their correct location. A slightly weak pump might make things worse,
but a cure could involve changing to a circulating system. I'd have a word
with a specialist - it's probably common.
The Rover P6 V-8 suffers the same fate - mine was unusable in a London
traffic jam on a warm+ day.
--
* The average person falls asleep in seven minutes *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Op's
Temperature related is as much as the engine running temp.
I would be checking any thermal sensor related devices. eg thermostat for one.
rm
Tris Foulds
you ever checked the tension of the top timing chain? I always thought it
was impossible for Jag engines to have their cam timing slip, 'til it
happened to me!
In my case, the cam chains jumped so that timing was advanced by about 3~4
teeth, the top chain had NEVER been tensioned since leaving the factory
(this on a recently bought FSH XJ6 S3). Result.. engine wouldn't run!
I then retimed the cams roughly (didn't have the cam gauge handy) to see if
the valves had hit the pistons, the car ran, started and drove okay, UNTIL
it warmed up, when the symptoms matched your car's exactly. Wouldn't rev,
stalled easily and wouldn't restart 'til cool.
I've since retimed the cam correctly and the car runs fine.
The problem occured on the XJ6 when accellerating away from lights and then
having to slam the anchors on after someone pulled out of a side street
without looking. The car just died and wouldn't restart, I reckon the
momentum built up by the camshafts was enough to overcome any restraint
offered by the VERY floppy top chain! Could something similar have happened
to your car, with perhaps less slippage (one tooth or so)?
The only other things that may be at fault (you seem to have done everyhing
else!) could be the jet diaphrams, have they hardened and split with age?
~though the usual symptoms of these being at fault is lousy fuel consumption
and poor starting when hot.
Have you ever used one of the slosh-type petrol tank sealing/coating
products? This stuff doesn't like unleaded fuel. If you've used it with
unleaded, you may find bits of gunge in the fuel filter and possibly some in
the carbs as well.
Tris Foulds
> slow-running screw on the SU carbs does...could this be a pointer?)
Just another thought, if your slow running screws aren't doing anything,
then your carbs need cleaning & possibly rebuilding! The slow running screw
is effectively an adjustable air valve that bypasses the throttle butterfly
and is used to adjust the idle speed. It could be that your car is running
on the starting carb until the otter switch triggers and switches it off.
If the mixture is way off on your carbs then the car won't run.
When the car is next started from cold, and before it has warmed up too
much, pull the wire on the otter switch & see what happens.
John Lowe
Many thanks to you all for your replies. There are several avenues to
explore to say the least!
I can partly answer some straight away.
To Andrew Wheeldon, the temp gauge shows normal all the way through and the
twin electric fans switch on and off frequently. Don't think it is
overheating but will try a trip on the road to see whether it makes a
difference.
To Simon Hartshot, don't know about "waxstat" jets. Have seen no reference
to it in the Haynes manual so don't think it is that but will bear in mind.
To David Plowman, am using LPR petrol and not unleaded. Fuel evaporation is
a possibility and I will look into that.
To Ops, I will look at the thermostat, but see above.
To Tris Folds, will have to check cam chain in due course. Thought the otter
switch (on top of the radiator) only operated the electric rad fans,(these
work).... does it do more or is there another one and if so where?
Again many thanks. Please come back with more re the above or any other.
John Lowe
colindoncaster
Sideshow
Geoff Mackenzie
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Mike Jarman
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tank...drilled breather hole in cap."
mwbr...@gmail.com
I am having the same problem. I live I Brazil and here most vintage cars die when the coil overheats (common remedy is to splash some water on its top and get going again).
Bit I haven't come to a conclusion yet. And are there any fixes to an overheating coil?