1986 Ford Capri 2.8i
Duncan Boxwell
preferably in north west England?
Ian Baird
If you can give me a bit more detail as to the North West, as I also live in
the NW, I will be able to give you a lot of suppliers names, and I mean alot
of suppliers names, I may not have all their phone numbers, but I can tell
you the area's they are in and maybe you can get the phone numbers from
directory enquiries.
Regards
Ian Baird
agentj
I have an 84 2.8 Capri with a problem that I cant seem to solve, I've
owned the car for a year, when I bought the car the temperature gauge
never seemed to move into the scale and the heater never blew warm air.
Checked the thermostat and found that it didn't have one fitted, I
replaced the thermostat and it started to blow water out the overflows
on radiator and the expansion tank, so I took it the head gaskets were
away most garages thought the same. Done both head gaskets put in
another new thermostat and temperature sender. The car also has a new
radiator and heater matrix. Now my problem is the same as it was before
any work was done on the car blowing out water, it seems to be at its
worst when the car is sitting ticking over seems OK when its driving, on
runs it doesn't lose any water although it haven't done any really long
runs. I am in Scotland and am planning to go to as many shows as
possible this year but don't fancy making the trips if IM doing to get
hassle with it. I called the north shore garage in Blackpool who
suggested to squeeze the lugs on the radiator caps tighter together and
it seemed to help for a while but now its bad as ever.
Any help with this would be gratefully appreciated as I am planning
to show the car at Capri convention on the 14th of march thanks.......
--
agentj
Chris Wilson
de...@agentj.demon.co.uk says...
OK,here is how I would attack this:
#1 Get a combustion gasses in the coolant test done.This test draws
any gasses from the header tank,through a special fluid.If the fluid
changes colour,CO is present,an indicates failed head gasket(s) or
cracked head(s).Ring some garages until you find one that has the
gear.It's not expensive,and we use ours at least once a week.Wonderful
gadget.
#2 Get a pressure test of the whole cooling system done.It should hold
up to the rated pressure of the cap *as recommended by Ford* IE,make
sure it has the right pressure cap fitted...Without a blow off
pressure cap fitted,I'd expect the system to withstand 20 PSI,without
any leakage.
The V6 can suffer warped *block* faces,as well as warped and cracked
heads.If the heads have to come off again,have the heads lightly
surface ground,and have the block faces checked for flatness using a
proper engineering straight edge.
Leave a coolant system pressure tester connected,and bring the engine
up to temperature at a fast tickover.See if the pressure goes above
the rated blow off for a standard cap.If it does,it's probably head
cracked,or blown gasket.If it just overheats,without the pressure
going too high *before* it overheats,it may be a blocked rad,or
damaged water pump.Even a collapsed hose,usually on the suction side.A
collapsed hose can look ok externally,yet have inner layers of the
rubber in a sorry way.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson
http://www.f3.u-net.com
mailto:ch...@f3.u-net.com
Jack Regan
<dun...@boxwell.co.uk> writes
>Can anyone point me in the direction of a body parts supplier for the above,
>preferably in north west England?
>
getting body parts, I recently put a couple of wings on my MK 3.
My local supplier is :-
Ailsa Car Panels
16 West Langlands St
KILMARNOCK
Ayrshire
KA1 2PY
Tel 01563 571600
They can even get panels for the old MK1 Capri with the small light's.
Usually the parts are available the following day.
If you call them they should be able to point you in the right
direction, their prices are good as well.
--
Jack Regan
Scott @ Home
Click for pictures of Cars & Trucks
Sign my guest book while you're there!
Chel fc
In article <wfXGWHAo...@agentj.demon.co.uk>, agentj
<de...@agentj.demon.co.uk> writes:
>I have an 84 2.8 Capri with a problem that I cant seem to solve, I've
>owned the car for a year, when I bought the car the temperature gauge
>never seemed to move into the scale and the heater never blew warm air.
>Checked the thermostat and found that it didn't have one fitted, I
>replaced the thermostat and it started to blow water out the overflows
>on radiator and the expansion tank, so I took it the head gaskets were
>away most garages thought the same. Done both head gaskets put in
>another new thermostat and temperature sender. The car also has a new
>radiator and heater matrix. Now my problem is the same as it was before
>any work was done on the car blowing out water, it seems to be at its
>worst when the car is sitting ticking over seems OK when its driving, on
>runs it doesn't lose any water although it haven't done any really long
>runs. I am in Scotland and am planning to go to as many shows as
>possible this year but don't fancy making the trips if IM doing to get
>hassle with it. I called the north shore garage in Blackpool who
>suggested to squeeze the lugs on the radiator caps tighter together and
>it seemed to help for a while but now its bad as ever.
> Any help with this would be gratefully appreciated as I am planning
>to show the car at Capri convention on the 14th of march thanks.......
>
Were you losing coolant before you added the thermostat? How does your temp
gauge read now you have the new sender fitted, if the same, nowt, earth the
terminal on the sender to check that the gauge is in fact ok (it should read
maximum temp when earthed). If you are only losing coolant now the stat has
been fitted, then that means the extra heat, in the heads and block are opening
up probably, a crack or emphasizing a warped head thus allowing compression
from cylinder/s to blow the pressure caps.
You mention the problem only occurs at standstill (at tickover) have you got
the viscous fan fitted, does it cut in at approx the correct temperature (if at
all). Probably, most importantly, how does the temp. of the rad and header tank
feel when they blow? You shouldn't be able to touch either (esp. the rad) when
they're ready to go pop... If they're not hot enough to the touch, then you've
got pressure problems with the cracked head/block syndrome.
Let us know how you get on, good luck,
Mark
***** Who ever stated that FORD equates to Fix Or Repair Daily..... *****
Ian Edwards
>
>
>I have an 84 2.8 Capri with a problem that I cant seem to solve, I've
>owned the car for a year, when I bought the car the temperature gauge
>never seemed to move into the scale and the heater never blew warm air.
>Checked the thermostat and found that it didn't have one fitted, I
>replaced the thermostat and it started to blow water out the overflows
>on radiator and the expansion tank, so I took it the head gaskets were
>away most garages thought the same. Done both head gaskets put in
>another new thermostat and temperature sender. The car also has a new
>radiator and heater matrix. Now my problem is the same as it was before
>any work was done on the car blowing out water, it seems to be at its
>worst when the car is sitting ticking over seems OK when its driving, on
>runs it doesn't lose any water although it haven't done any really long
>runs. I am in Scotland and am planning to go to as many shows as
>possible this year but don't fancy making the trips if IM doing to get
>hassle with it. I called the north shore garage in Blackpool who
>suggested to squeeze the lugs on the radiator caps tighter together and
>it seemed to help for a while but now its bad as ever.
> Any help with this would be gratefully appreciated as I am planning
>to show the car at Capri convention on the 14th of march thanks.......
>
>
Is the water pump OK ?
Imagine that the impeller is loose on the shaft, at low speeds it may
not turn at all, but at higher speeds it may spin a bit and move some
water. This could explain why you're experiencing over-heating at low
rpm's but this seems to improve when driving.
So as an addition to all the excellent comments from the professionals
on this thread, I humbly suggest you remove the water pump and take a
close look at it.
--
Ian Edwards. - Remove 'norubbish' to reply.
If you post from .hotmail or .yahoo, my spam filters will block you.
PumaRacing
some kind of adaptor will do the job with a bit of ingenuity to connect it into
a hose somewhere. This sort of problem is often due to a failed seal on an
expansion tank cap or rad.
Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist flow
development and engine work. .