Rust converters
J
products that convert rust into stable black iron? Something about it being
the same stuff as used by farmers to clean milking machines?
Any ideas what it is called, I remember something like "Milk stone cleaner".
Anyway, I;ve found a little gem of an agricultural merchants, cheap
fastenings, good service, huge product range - but they couldn't help me
with the above so if anyone knows the chemical name I could go back and at
least have a look through their catalogues - no problem with chemicals, as
long as I am not making a bomb!
Thanks
--
J
10 countries in a 22 foot long stretched Triumph Herald? They said it
couldn't be done - they were wrong!
Believe - http://www.canleyclassics.com/10cr
OR how about Plymouth to Dakar in two Triumph Heralds, yes really!
Visit http://www.team-michelotti.org and see how you can help.
William Davies
J <I...@it.again> wrote in message
news:705feebfd4715ae4...@news.teranews.com...
> Was it here that I read about a cheap alternative to the Kurust type
> products that convert rust into stable black iron? Something about it
being
> the same stuff as used by farmers to clean milking machines?
> Any ideas what it is called, I remember something like "Milk stone
cleaner".
Hi Jason,
The product I use is called Dilac Plus, manufacturers name is Deosan.
It's known to the merchants as Milk Stone Remover. The merchant I use has
another similar product on the shelf which is a little more expensive - I
bought the cheaper one to try first and it works beautifully. I dilute by
approximately 1:1 with water for dipping small stuff like fasteners, leave
them to soak for a few hours and check regularly. Dilute about 3:1 or 4:1 as
chemical:water for dipping larger items like springs which can be left for
24 hours or more without problems.
Cheers,
Bill.
--
Rarebits4classics
.......just what you've been looking for
PO Box 1232
Calne
Wiltshire
SN11 8WA
United Kingdom
http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk
J
Whilst searching for an answer I came across this which may be interesting -
how's your chemistry?
http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/rustconv.html
--
J
10 countries in a 22 foot long stretched Triumph Herald? They said it
couldn't be done - they were wrong!
Believe - http://www.canleyclassics.com/10cr
OR how about Plymouth to Dakar in two Triumph Heralds, yes really!
Visit http://www.team-michelotti.org and see how you can help.
"William Davies" <ne...@rarebits4classics.spamfree..uk> wrote in message
news:%eLqb.196$5H.2...@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...
William Davies
J <I...@it.again> wrote in message
> Cheers Bill,
> Whilst searching for an answer I came across this which may be
interesting -
> how's your chemistry?
> http://www.alan.net/prgshoptips/rustconv.html
Hi Jason,
My Chemistry is upto 'O' level only and now largely forgotten, but I am
married to an ex-Castrol development chemist, so I have consultant available
24-7!
I'm not a fan of rust "converters" per se. They will at best convert the
outer layer of any thick rust and prevent any further rusting. I would
hesitate to call the phosphoric acid based fluids converters. The phosphoric
acid will continue to penetrate until the rust has all been removed. Rather
than a layer of hard black converted product, you will have a thin grey
phosphate coating over the remaining metal. The downside of this is the
metal will be pitted where the rust has been removed rather than filled with
a black crust.
shane
I don't trust rust "convertors" either. I have tried two makes, Hammerite
Kurust, which basically lets the metal start rusting again after a while,
and Loctite rust convertor which is better, but as you mentioned they only
convert an extremely thin top layer of rust, and even lightly scratching
the surface with a screwdriver reveals the rust still underneath.
I have been wonderering how to treat "niggly" rust, light rust in awkward
places that cannot be sanded to bear metal. At the moment I give it two
good coats of Davids zinc primer.
Would you recommend the Clarke rust remover, it's qouted as being an
"inhibited inorganic acid" for rust removal.
Thanks
Shane
William Davies
shane <shan...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2003.11.09....@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk...
>
> Would you recommend the Clarke rust remover, it's qouted as being an
> "inhibited inorganic acid" for rust removal.
Hi SHane,
I've always like Jenolite liquid (not the jelly), but the milk stone
remover referred to further up the thread works just as well if not better,
and it's a fraction of the cost,
shane
Hi Bill
Thanks for the advice, I'll look out for Jenolite Liquid, or better still the
milk stone remover.
Thanks
Shane
J
don't stock it but they have said I can get it at Agricentre in guess where?
Calne!
tel no. 01249 814700 @ £16.83 per 5 litres.I guess that's where yours came
from.
--
J
10 countries in a 22 foot long stretched Triumph Herald? They said it
couldn't be done - they were wrong!
Believe - http://www.canleyclassics.com/10cr
OR how about Plymouth to Dakar in two Triumph Heralds, yes really!
Visit http://www.team-michelotti.org and see how you can help.
"William Davies" <ne...@rarebits4classics.spamfree..uk> wrote in message
news:Cvsrb.287$486.6...@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...
leith
> Bill, I emailed Oakes Brothers, my local agri merchants. They said they
> don't stock it but they have said I can get it at Agricentre in guess where?
> Calne!
> tel no. 01249 814700 @ £16.83 per 5 litres.I guess that's where yours came
> from.
>
interested.
Tony Tynan
carrying a product for cleaning carbs. that I hadn't seen at previous NECs.
It's main claim to fame according to the publicity was that it contained
"17% Phosphoric acid and Hydrochloric(?) acid" but didn't say if that was
combined or separately. Anyone have knowledge of this product or better
still experience of using
Thanks
TT
Dave Plowman
I've found ordinary carb cleaner - or cellulose thinners - to work well
enough. Both will remove petrol 'varnish'.
--
*I see you've set aside this special time to humiliate yourself in public
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn