moggie heater
martin johnson
winter? don't know whether to change mine, or install new heater unit to see
if it improves. have removed all airlocks and changed hoses, but still not
hot enough on v cold days.
Perman
remove both the heater hoes from engine end and flush the wrong way round.
Martin P
--
replace my jumbled email with martin...@btopenworld.com. May the force
be with you, if she isn't you're on a hiding to nothing.
"martin johnson" <johnson...@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:au4nef$fhc$1...@sparta.btinternet.com...
Flewolfece
"martin johnson" <johnson...@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:au4nef$fhc$1...@sparta.btinternet.com...
I've used this in my heater matrix and it sure does the business.
A bottle of "Aerial Rapid" (automatic - low sudding) or similar clothes
washing detergent.
Place the contents of the bottle into the radiator of your car and run the
car as normal for a couple of days (no time limit as it is safe to use on
most materials, so leave it in for a couple of weeks - I've still got some
in mine from 3 months ago). After which all you need do is disconnect a
couple of the radiator hoses and flush the system out using a garden hose
(for really "fouled" up systems, it may be necessary to repeat the process).
Then refill your system with the manufacturers recommended coolant mixture
and away you go. A nice clean efficient cooling/heating system is yours for
the price of a bottle of "liquid" wash powder, which is usually a lot
cheaper than the likes of "Holts Radflush" or similar.
HTH
N
Dave Plowman
What temperature thermostat do you have? I seem to remember changing to
something like a 92 made a big difference. Minors in good nick have a way
too big cooling system.
--
*Tell me to 'stuff it' - I'm a taxidermist.
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Austin Shackles
<nit.ma...@btopenworld.com> enlightened us thusly:
>Back flush the heater you may have muck inside it.
>
>remove both the heater hoes from engine end and flush the wrong way round.
nice trick someone came up with the other day was to reverse the connections
to the heater matrix. Worked on the Land Rover...
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero" (sieze today, and put
as little trust as you can in tomorrow) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Odes, I.xi.8
Simon Weller
>> does anyone own a morris minor with an original heater that works
>> well in winter? don't know whether to change mine, or install new
>> heater unit to see if it improves. have removed all airlocks and
>> changed hoses, but still not hot enough on v cold days.
>
> What temperature thermostat do you have? I seem to remember
> changing to
> something like a 92 made a big difference. Minors in good nick have
> a way too big cooling system.
With the later square type Smiths heater and a hotter thermostat (88 deg)
I've had Minors uncomfortably hot.
As others have suggested back flush to clear all the crap out, replace
the actual heater hoses as they collapse with age restricting flow and
make sure the matrix isn't bunged up with fluff.
To get the matrix properly clean try Serck, they (IIRC) do a professional
repair and flushing service. url:http://www.serckservices.co.uk/
The round Smiths type on early minors look nice but I never had much
winter heat from the one I had, but that was in a convertible. So
fighting a losing battle from the start!
Same applies with that type but it's important the fan runs at the best
possible speed as there is no ram air effect to get air over the matrix.
The variable resistor is usually shot and can be replaced by a
sympathetic period switch.
url:http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/switch-2/switch-
2.html#gen490
HTH
--
Simon
Brighton
England
Dennis Richardson
"martin johnson" <johnson...@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:au4nef$fhc$1...@sparta.btinternet.com...
scarf, I've done everything in mine and I still get a nice look warm flow,
although some of the other reply's are good common sense stuff, and I might
try them myself, if you want to really try for some heat I have heard that a
Mini heater can do better, the details on how to fit one you will find on
www.morrisminoroc.co.uk, then go to Technical tips, you will find all you
want their.
May I take this opportunity for all the years help from you lads, to wish
you a merry Crimbo and a happy new year.
Dennis.
AWM
"martin johnson" <johnson...@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:au4nef$fhc$1...@sparta.btinternet.com...
As other have told you
(1) Check the heater water valve is openning fully
(2) Back flush it with a garden hose --- BUT don't use degtergent ! if
you need to get sludge out use washing soda or caustic.
(3) fit a new "hot heater" 88 degree thermostat (I suspect an 92 degree
stat is just a bit too hot for a Minor especially if the head hasn't been
converted to unleaded), modern wax thermostats tend to open at a lowewr
temperature as they get older.
(4) Try blanking off 1/3 to 1/2 of the raddiator matrix with hardboard or
cardboard.
(5) Fit an electric fan
Ian Johnston
wrote:
: What temperature thermostat do you have? I seem to remember changing to
: something like a 92 made a big difference. Minors in good nick have a way
: too big cooling system.
I have to swap my Herald from an 84 degree summer thermostat to a 92
degree winter one today - makes more difference to that heater than
you'd think from the relatively small temperature change.
Ian
--
Geoff Mackenzie
"martin johnson" <johnson...@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:au4nef$fhc$1...@sparta.btinternet.com...
Not sure if it's relevant, but on my E-Type which was renowned for its
useless heater in its day now can toast your feet. But this followed a
complete engine rebuild and new rad.
Check first to see if the rad is blocked. Easy to do - get the engine hot
then run your hand over the the finned surface of the rad. If you find a
cold bit then it's blocked. Add Drano (household drain unblocker), leave
for a while then back-flush. Caution - don't use on ally blocked or headed
engines (OK I know the Minor isn't either) - I knew a chap who ruined a
Ferrari 250 engine this way. The Drano basically ate it from the inside.
Regards,
Geoff MacK
Jon Tilson
> for a while then back-flush. Caution - don't use on ally blocked or
headed
> engines (OK I know the Minor isn't either) - I knew a chap who ruined a
> Ferrari 250 engine this way. The Drano basically ate it from the inside.
inlet manifold water heated on later Moggs...or am I too Triumph minded....
Jonners
John Manders
"AWM" <not...@nowhere.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:au6g28$521$1...@helle.btinternet.com...
CERTAIN that there is no aluminium components in the system. Caustic soda
(or washing soda) eats aluminium. Water pumps & thermostat housings are the
most likely victims.
John
Dave Baker
>From: hu...@ukmisc.org.uk (Huge)
>Date: 24/12/02 12:34 GMT Standard Time
>Message-id: <au9k8a$5la$3...@anubis.demon.co.uk>
>
>In article <au9bms$s...@newton.cc.rl.ac.uk>, "John Manders"
><j.ma...@rl.ac.uk> writes:
>
>[31 lines snipped]
>
>>Please don't use caustic soda to flush a cooling system unless you are
>>CERTAIN that there is no aluminium components in the system. Caustic soda
>>(or washing soda)
>
>Caustic soda != washing soda
It certainly isn't. Washing soda is sodium carbonate - NaCO3
Caustic soda (lye) is sodium hydroxide - NaOH
Washing soda will discolour aluminium and caustic soda will dissolve it.
I wouldn't suggest using either of them in your bread though - that's baking
soda, sodium bicarbonate - NaHCO3.
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
John Manders
"Huge" <hu...@ukmisc.org.uk> wrote in message
news:au9k8a$5la$3...@anubis.demon.co.uk...
> In article <au9bms$s...@newton.cc.rl.ac.uk>, "John Manders"
<j.ma...@rl.ac.uk> writes:
>
> [31 lines snipped]
>
> >CERTAIN that there is no aluminium components in the system. Caustic soda
> >(or washing soda)
>
> Caustic soda != washing soda
>
same. So better safe than sorry and mention both names.
Merry Christmas
Dave Baker
>Date: 24/12/02 15:26 GMT Standard Time
>Message-id: <20021224102639...@mb-md.aol.com>
>
>>Subject: Re: Don't use caustic soda
>>From: hu...@ukmisc.org.uk (Huge)
>>Date: 24/12/02 12:34 GMT Standard Time
>>Message-id: <au9k8a$5la$3...@anubis.demon.co.uk>
>>
>>In article <au9bms$s...@newton.cc.rl.ac.uk>, "John Manders"
>><j.ma...@rl.ac.uk> writes:
>>
>>[31 lines snipped]
>>
>>>Please don't use caustic soda to flush a cooling system unless you are
>>>CERTAIN that there is no aluminium components in the system. Caustic soda
>>>(or washing soda)
>>[6 lines snipped]
>>
>>Caustic soda != washing soda
>
>It certainly isn't. Washing soda is sodium carbonate - NaCO3
A "2" went awaol there - it should have read Na2CO3.
AWM
"John Manders" <j.ma...@rl.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:au9bms$s...@newton.cc.rl.ac.uk...
>
> Please don't use caustic soda to flush a cooling system unless you are
> CERTAIN that there is no aluminium components in the system. Caustic soda
> (or washing soda) eats aluminium. Water pumps & thermostat housings are
the
> most likely victims.
>
> John
>
>
Its simply not a problem when flushed after a few minutes.
Chris Bolus
<richar...@blueyonder.co.uk@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
> if you want to really try for some heat I have heard that a
>Mini heater can do better, the details on how to fit one you will find on
>www.morrisminoroc.co.uk, then go to Technical tips, you will find all you
>want their.
>
I'm guessing that's the later model heater with the rocker switch? As
the early one in my Elf couldn't blow a feather away, and I have a late
type standing by to be fitted.
Following this thread with interest, as neither Elf nor A40 are
currently able to push out enough air and heat to demist the windscreen,
so they haven't been driven much lately. The Elf, as I've said, is to
get its heater replaced. The A40 shares the same heating gear as the MG
Midget. The temperature gauge never rises far, so I have both thermostat
& sender standing by to fit. Any further ideas on this one?
On the subject of windows, why do all older cars mist up chronically
while modern ones rarely do? ISTR they misted up when they were new too.
But now with the experience of driving cars that don't mist up we expect
to be able to see without wiping the screen every couple of miles.
What's the solution? I remember when I was a young driver buying some
stuff called "Mastermist" which kept the windows from misting up, but I
can't find it, or anything like it, now. Any ideas?
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by email)
----1961 Austin A40 Farina----1966 Triumph Herald Estate---
--1969 Riley Elf--1965 Wolseley 16/60--1965 Hillman Minx---
-------1972 Mini Clubman estate------1957 Standard 8-------
---- Website at www.b0lus.com ----
********** Please don't email in HTML! **********
Chris Bolus
<ni...@ncoxNS39.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>I've used this in my heater matrix and it sure does the business.
>
>A bottle of "Aerial Rapid" (automatic - low sudding) or similar clothes
>washing detergent.
>Place the contents of the bottle into the radiator of your car and run the
>car as normal for a couple of days (no time limit as it is safe to use on
>most materials, so leave it in for a couple of weeks - I've still got some
>in mine from 3 months ago). After which all you need do is disconnect a
>couple of the radiator hoses and flush the system out using a garden hose
>(for really "fouled" up systems, it may be necessary to repeat the process).
For really fouled-up systems, connect the jet of a pressure washer into
the radiator hose. That really gets everything out!
Dave Plowman
Chris Bolus <ch...@FARINAb0lus.com> wrote:
> Following this thread with interest, as neither Elf nor A40 are
> currently able to push out enough air and heat to demist the windscreen,
> so they haven't been driven much lately. The Elf, as I've said, is to
> get its heater replaced. The A40 shares the same heating gear as the MG
> Midget. The temperature gauge never rises far, so I have both thermostat
> & sender standing by to fit. Any further ideas on this one?
I had a new Midget in '70 and drove it everywhere with the hood down even
in winter if it wasn't raining. The heater I thought very good as it
always kept my feet warm.
Use a thermostat that makes it run as close to boiling as possible - this
may not be one that's recommended but of a higher opening temperature. The
capillary type temperature gauges fitted to these cars are very accurate
(when working ;-)) so can be relied upon.
A pal bought imported a new A Series engined Metro some years ago. The
heater on that was poor and the temperature gauge on it never got near
normal on a cold day. The garage that service it couldn't help saying
they'd tried a new thermostat. I had a look and went to the nearby main
dealer to check on the thermostat and sure enough it was the correct and
only one listed.
I had the factory workshop manual for the Midget and that listed three
types of thermostats for different uses, and the one fitted to the Metro
was the middle one (82C). I fitted an 88C one, and the temperature gauge
went to the middle and the heater worked well.
--
*Geeks shall inherit the earth *
Geoff Mackenzie
"Jon Tilson" <j...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:XFMN9.37908$Oc4....@news-binary.blueyonder.co.uk...
brightest suggestion! If the problem is the rad, though, then shouldn't be
too difficult to take it out and try the Drano solution.
Geoff MacK
Flewolfece
caused by warm, moisture laden, air condensating on a cold surface. The
moisture also tends to be absorbed into the upholstery and carpets. When the
vehicle is left to stand out in the cold, this moisture condensates on the,
cold, glass areas.
I tend to find that if I drive the last few miles of a journey with the
heater on cold and the window open (no rain permitting). This minimises the
effect of the "warm (and moisture laden) air" condensating on the inside, so
when I come to it later I have little to do to clear the screens. I also
park the car with the vents open, allowing the car to breathe and equalise
the air (temperature and moisture content) inside with that outside.
It works for me but you do need a good coat in the winter, but then that is
what "driving" is all about IMHO. LOL :)
Going back to my earlier post about cleaning the heater matrix, the reason I
suggested the "Aerial Rapid" method is that this stuff is used in washing
machines and is therefore safe to use on most materials (rubber, steel,
plastic, aluminium etc) as it is non caustic. The powerflush method is ok
but will show up any defective parts on older cars and quickly too :)
HTH
N
Chris Bolus
<ni...@ncoxNS39.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>Without wanting to teach "Granny to suck etc". The misting effect is usually
>caused by warm, moisture laden, air condensating on a cold surface. The
>moisture also tends to be absorbed into the upholstery and carpets. When the
>vehicle is left to stand out in the cold, this moisture condensates on the,
>cold, glass areas.
As a physics teacher I'm very much aware of that! What puzzles me is the
quantity of moisture which condenses very rapidly from a semingly dry
car, particularly in comparison with my pair of modern cars, where I
know the carpets are damp from wet feet. The old cars both mist up
rapidly, and the modern ones don't. The side windows are particularly
noticeable.
AWM
"Chris Bolus" <ch...@FARINAb0lus.com> wrote in message
news:kvvg1vk55vjrtjcab...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:57:18 -0000, "Flewolfece"
> <ni...@ncoxNS39.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
> As a physics teacher I'm very much aware of that! What puzzles me is the
> quantity of moisture which condenses very rapidly from a semingly dry
> car, particularly in comparison with my pair of modern cars, where I
> know the carpets are damp from wet feet. The old cars both mist up
> rapidly, and the modern ones don't. The side windows are particularly
> noticeable.
>
> --
> Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by email)
Old cars generally don't have extractor vents it was as late as 1970 before
all manufacturers fitted them.
The other thing is to make sure the heater air intake plenum chamber drain
is clear, if is blocked you get the instant fog effect when you first turn
on the heater.
Chris Bolus
Ah, I see the point about extractor vents, but I'm pretty sure the A40's
plenum chamber drain is clear as I can see run marks below them. I will
check though.
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by email)