Spraying Cellulose..Tips?
Dean Rayner
I am about to start spraying bits of my car and wonder if anyone could
pass on any tips about cellulose paints.
Thin the top coat 1:1 ?
Thin the under coats thinner?
Can I spray in sub zero temps?
Will it run/drip?
Many thin coats or one thick?
How long between coats?
How do I set up the spray gun--air to paint ratio--what pressure do I set
the compressor to ?
Is the spray gun that came with the compressor likley to be any good or
should I get a better one?
Any thing else I have missed?
--
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Death to all junk mail.
Keith R Baker
Dean Rayner wrote in message ...
>I am about to start spraying bits of my car and wonder if anyone could
>pass on any tips about cellulose paints.
>
>Thin the top coat 1:1 ?
Most of the cellulose is thinned 50:50 (1:1), the paint shop should
be able to supply a paint info sheet that tells you everything you
need to know - thinning, time to leave the coats, flash times, what
times for double coats, etc
>Thin the under coats thinner?
as instructions - usually 1:1
>Can I spray in sub zero temps?
Not recommended again see the fact sheet but if its damp (condensation
caused by breath etc) then you will probably get trapped moisture, and
the cold can cause blooming, ie dull paint - but that can be pollished out.
>Will it run/drip?
Of coarse :) - carefully sand (flat) out runs. If you get runs then
paint
is probably two runny and you have put it on two thick, if you get a sag
then the paints two non-runny (!) and you have put it on two thick.
Its worth playing with the air pressure and gun paint flow settings,
distance
to surface etc before the real thing to get an idea how it all works.
>Many thin coats or one thick?
medium :) thinner coats are safer.
>How long between coats?
see fact sheet. 10-20mins between a double coat, ie, one coat followed by
the next. between double coats 2-3hours.
>How do I set up the spray gun--air to paint ratio--what pressure do I set
>the compressor to ?
I guess the easyest thing is to do what the gun manufaturer says the play
until it all works - as you change the settings you will see what controls
what.
>Is the spray gun that came with the compressor likley to be any good or
>should I get a better one?
don't know what your buying !
>Any thing else I have missed?
Not sure.
but you can always post again.
good luck
Keith
Andrew
Dean Rayner <dean@#nospam#drayner.demon.co.uk> wrote in article
<dean-29019...@192.163.1.11>...
> I am about to start spraying bits of my car and wonder if anyone could
> pass on any tips about cellulose paints.
>
> Thin the top coat 1:1 ?
> Thin the under coats thinner?
>
> Can I spray in sub zero temps?
>
> Will it run/drip?
>
> Many thin coats or one thick?
>
> How long between coats?
>
> How do I set up the spray gun--air to paint ratio--what pressure do I set
> the compressor to ?
>
> Is the spray gun that came with the compressor likley to be any good or
> should I get a better one?
>
> Any thing else I have missed?
>
> --
> remove the nospam from the e-mail to reply.
> Death to all junk mail.
> #
The answer to most of your questions is no.
Best advice is don't use celluose instead use a more modern automotive
finish and follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter. The only
only good points about cellulose are that it drys quickly and cuts back
well with T cut type rubbing compounds.
Beware some modern 3 pack automotive paints that use Iso-cyanate as a
hardening accelerator as they are toxic with some individuals being very
sensitive to them.
LARSPAINTR
First and formost- dont inhale|!
Seriously the stuff can give U a high quickly.
Note the thinner varies as the temperature, there are thiners rated a low,
normal and high temps.
If U use small compressor that works a lot and hard, U may find U R getting not
just warm but HOT air thru the line/gun. This dries paint before it hits the
car!!!!
Pressure suggested is AT THE GUN, not just at the compressor. Hence U should
have a guage at
the gun or add perhaps 5 to 7 pounds additional pressure at the tank to
compensate.
PRACTICE first on an old fender or whatever. Practice on newspaper is useless,
U need to work on
a metal surface to check what U R doing.
If all else fails, READ the directions on paint label!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It has answers to half your questions
Rotsa Ruck
Lars
itsalar...@aol.com Delete 'itsa' if sending E mail.
Andrew Willoughby
In article: <dean-29019...@192.163.1.11>
dean@#nospam#drayner.demon.co.uk (Dean Rayner) writes:
#
# I am about to start spraying bits of my car and wonder if anyone could
# pass on any tips about cellulose paints.
The most important thing I learned about spraying was the use of
the double header coat.
If you spray four or five thin coats you'll still not get a really
good gloss. But two thin coats followed by a double coat and you
can get a good gloss without runs.
Spray one thin coat....wait 15 mins.
Spray second thin coat..wait 15 mins.
Then spray a double coat. Spray the first panel, then the same
panel again without waiting. Onto the second panel then that
panel again. etc.
Damp weather must be avoided, but a dry frosty day is ok.
You must have a commpressor that can keep up with the spray gun,
so the one that came with it might be best. If you buy a better/bigger
gun then you'll keep running out of air. You really have to do
each coat without stopping.
So long as you don't cut right through the paint it's amazing
what can be done with wet and dry to repair any mistakes you've
made. I knew one lad who never tried to get a gloss, just
applied plenty paint then flatted it down and polished back to
a gloss.
--
Andrew
Relax, enjoy life!
Leslie B Rose
In article <dean-29019...@192.163.1.11>, Dean Rayner <dean@#nosp
am#drayner.demon.co.uk> writes
>I am about to start spraying bits of my car and wonder if anyone could
>
>Thin the under coats thinner?
>
>Can I spray in sub zero temps?
>
>Will it run/drip?
Yes - that's why you need a bit of practice.
>
>
>Many thin coats or one thick?
coat you will be in loads of trouble. However successive layers of light
dusting will also be awful.
>
>How long between coats?
When spraying a whole car I have usually found that by the time I
finished the first coat I could start on the second, so maybe half an
hour.
>
>How do I set up the spray gun--air to paint ratio--what pressure do I set
>the compressor to ?
error (on old bits of steel etc, the spare car, the mother-in-law) aways
served me well.
>
>Is the spray gun that came with the compressor likley to be any good or
>should I get a better one?
give poorer finishes. Mind you, I have obtained good results from an
Electrolux vacuum cleaner!
>
>Any thing else I have missed?
>
masking round them - overspray and that horrible ridge are a dead
giveaway.
--
Leslie B Rose
Leslie B Rose
In article <01bd2cf3$60707620$30e8b094@rommulus>, Andrew
<am...@post.almac.co.uk> writes
>The answer to most of your questions is no.
>Best advice is don't use celluose instead use a more modern automotive
>finish and follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter. The only
>only good points about cellulose are that it drys quickly and cuts back
>well with T cut type rubbing compounds.
>Beware some modern 3 pack automotive paints that use Iso-cyanate as a
>hardening accelerator as they are toxic with some individuals being very
>sensitive to them.
>
as easy and safe to use (by the amateur) as cellulose?
--
Leslie B Rose
CTHerald
In article <dean-29019...@192.163.1.11>,
dean@#nospam#drayner.demon.co.uk (Dean Rayner) writes:
>
>Thin the top coat 1:1 ?
>Thin the under coats thinner?
Depends entirely on your spray kit. I used to have an Apollo 400 tankless HVLP
kit (until it got stolen) which did a good job but needed the paint
substantially thinner than 1:1. Generally the (last) top coat should be thinner
than the earlier ones. Primer can be quite thick, but if you are over-spraying
existing paint, particularly anything with feathered edges, the first coat
needs to go on 'dry', which means thinned a fair bit and sprayed lightly and
from a distance.
>Can I spray in sub zero temps?
No.
>Will it run/drip?
Not if you do it right. Thick coats will run, especially if the paint has been
thinned a lot.
>Many thin coats or one thick?
Many thin. See above. I reckon on three "double" coats each of primer and
colour. A double coat is achieved by going round the whole car twice (as in two
coats) on one fill of the gun. The first pass should be light enough to have
very nearly dried by the time you do the second, so the second will just reflow
nicely to give a good smooth surface.
>How long between coats?
As long as it takes. For primer I found that the time taken to clean the gun
was enough. Colour takes a tad longer. You should leave at least 24 hours
between primer and first colour coat, and two weeks between painting and
cutting/polishing.
>How do I set up the spray gun--air to paint ratio--what pressure do I set
>the compressor to ?
Depends on the gun, follow the instructions.
>Is the spray gun that came with the compressor likley to be any good or
>should I get a better one?
For your first effort the gun will be as good as you need. When you get
practiced it will be worth buying a good one.
Adam Quantrill
Leslie B Rose wrote:
>
> In article <dean-29019...@192.163.1.11>, Dean Rayner <dean@#nosp
> am#drayner.demon.co.uk> writes
> >I am about to start spraying bits of my car and wonder if anyone could
> >pass on any tips about cellulose paints.
> >Can I spray in sub zero temps?
> No
> >
> >Will it run/drip?
> Yes - that's why you need a bit of practice.
As long as the thinners is liquid, you can spray. I don't think that
the freezing point of water has anything to do with it. My number
one tip for spraying is to do it under a heating lamp of some sort.
I found the cheapest and safest thing to get is a couple of 500W
floodlamps, they're less than a tenner each (also handy for welding).
With all that heat on the work, the paint dries quicker and runs
are almost eliminated. And you can spray in as cold weather as you
like.
Leave the lamps on the work when you've finished for a good bake-in.
- Adam