Anybody know how to fix Marantz amp ??
Synapsis Syndrome
I've got a Marantz PM66SE. The same one they made into the old
K.I.Signature. But when I put it on now, it doesn't make that clicking
sound after around five seconds like it used to. And there's no sound. The
speakers are completely silent, with no hiss even at high volume.
So I guess the amps blown. I've been using it with crappy little speakers
recently, as my proper ones got stolen. They always made a popping sound at
high volumes, and I should have known that this was damaging my amp.
I am quite poor, so could someone tell me if it is a fairly easy job to
repair it? Hopefully just some fuse or something? I'm not to bad at fixing
things when I have some understanding of their working, but I don't know
much about amps.
Alternatively, how is the quickest / cheapest way of getting it fixed in the
UK? Do Richer Sounds do repairs? How much can I expect to have to pay?
My experience of getting electronics fixed in this country is not a pleasant
one. I always get ripped off after the initial 'estimate', and then you
can't do anything but pay.
It's out a warrantee, and I would assume sending it back to Marantz would
take a long time, and would be expensive.
Thanks for your help
Jason.
Geoff Scott
turn off, unplug and leave off over night...
2:
pop all the covers off, check for any fuses / curcit breakers.
3:
look for any damaged / burnt components.
4:
get a multimeter onto the output stages, check that both sides are giving
the same voltages...
Use a digital - you can get some significant "negative" voltages...
5:
cry
"Synapsis Syndrome" <lay...@nottingham.ac.ukNOSPAM> wrote in message
news:947fg6$ojh$1...@oyez.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk...
Bigguy
operating....
Could be lots of reasons why from easy to expensive....
Had any loud parties lately? ;-)
Unplug, open the case and have a good look and a sniff (strong burned
smell is not good!).
Check any internal fuses with a meter, look for burnt components or
domed/burst capacitors (the little cokecan jobbies).
If you are lucky it will be an internal fuse....
Bigguy
--
Please remove 'no.spam.' for correct e-mail address
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steve.elsey
dealer, and get a quote for the repair. Most dealers either have someone
they use for repairs, or their own in house service centre. I would guess
that the cost of repair assuming the outputs have blown will be around £40 -
£60 at a guess, better than buying a new amp. Which is what you will end up
having to do if you have no knowledge of how these items work, and go poking
around inside, sure check for blown fuses, but other than that call a pro.
--
Steve - Sound Cinergy
37 High Street, Aldridge
Tel/Fax 01922 457926
st...@soundcinergy.co.uk
www.soundcinergy.co.uk
"Bigguy" <big...@globalnet.no.spam.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3A6779C4...@globalnet.no.spam.co.uk...
Dave Plowman
Synapsis Syndrome <lay...@nottingham.ac.ukNOSPAM> wrote:
> I've got a Marantz PM66SE. The same one they made into the old
> K.I.Signature. But when I put it on now, it doesn't make that clicking
> sound after around five seconds like it used to. And there's no sound.
> The speakers are completely silent, with no hiss even at high volume.
I'd *guess* it has a relay coupling up the speakers after a short delay to
let the offset stabilise so as not to cause a thump. Could be this is
faulty, or it could be that there is a large DC offset due to a blown
transistor which is stopping it operating. Just a guess though - I don't
have the circuit.
--
* Why do psychics have to ask you for your name? *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Dan
>> I've got a Marantz PM66SE. The same one they made into the old
>> K.I.Signature. But when I put it on now, it doesn't make that clicking
>> sound after around five seconds like it used to. And there's no sound. The
>> speakers are completely silent, with no hiss even at high volume.
Have you tried with the speakers disconnected?
Guy Verbist
back (not the one in the mains plug). Try testing it with a friend's
connectivity tester thingummabob.
Cheers,
Guy
p.s. then invest in some slow-blow fuses
Alec
centre of the amp pcb goes open circuit I am trying to remember the number,
we had a bulletin from Marantz advising us to put a higher wattage resistor
in. I am trying to remember weather it is a 4.7ohm or .47ohm. If you don't
find it I can check when I go back in on Tuesday or e-mail the lad in the
workshop tomorrow, going around the pcb with a meter will soon find it.
Let me know if you are stuck
Regards
Alec
P.S.
The resistor just goes o/c there is no apparent fault
Peter Chant
"Guy Verbist" <g...@nospamplease.prosumersolutions.com> writes:
> A friend of mine has one of these and it regularly blows the fuse in the
> back (not the one in the mains plug). Try testing it with a friend's
> connectivity tester thingummabob.
>
Never be tempted to replace the fuses with anything larger in value either.
They are there to protect the expensive bits. Also if you replace them
you will probally find that they are quickblow types, replace with the
same type.
--
Peter Chant
pe...@petezilla.co.uk
Dave Plowman
--
* Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment *
Jim Lesurf
Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
> Fuse. A device designed to be protected by any semi-conductor material.
secondary breakdown: Effect upon the owner when they discover that they
have just proved, once again, that the above it sadly true. ;->
Slainte,
Jim
--
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Super
"Jim Lesurf" <jc...@st-and.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4a4307c...@st-and.demon.co.uk...
> In article <4a42236046...@argonet.co.uk>,
> Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
> > Fuse. A device designed to be protected by any semi-conductor material.
>
> secondary breakdown: Effect upon the owner when they discover that they
> have just proved, once again, that the above it sadly true. ;->
>
> Slainte,
>
> Jim
>
I thought that every electronic engineer knew that all components contain
smoke, and that once you let the smoke out they either cease functioning
totally or become partially disabled.
A notable exception to the above is the vacuum tube which does not rely on
smoke to function, hence it's name.... :-)
Paul.
Peter Chant
Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> writes:
> Fuse. A device designed to be protected by any semi-conductor material.
>
I've seen the sad insides of an amp where the fuses had been replaced with
15A slow blow. Probally should have been 2A fast blow. Mind you, I suspect
240V ac mains was also supplied to the speaker terminals which wouldn't
help.
--
Peter Chant
pe...@petezilla.co.uk
Peter Chant
"Super" <gw7...@hotmail.com> writes:
>
> I thought that every electronic engineer knew that all components contain
> smoke, and that once you let the smoke out they either cease functioning
> totally or become partially disabled.
Also that to release smoke you must accidentally place your finger
on them to ensure that they are nearing smoke making temperature.
--
Peter Chant
pe...@petezilla.co.uk
Mike Coatham
"Peter Chant" <pe...@petezilla.co.uk> wrote in message
news:94v1fj$4no$4...@phoenix.fire...
> In article <4a42236046...@argonet.co.uk>,
> Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> writes:
> > Fuse. A device designed to be protected by any semi-conductor material.
> >
three legs :)
Jim Lesurf
wrote:
I have also seen poweramps where the user has managed to plug mains into
the LS outlet. Not only sans working devices but also sans PCB track from
devices to LS socket. An impressive error given the difference in
connectors required. Never underestimate the ingenuity or determination of
the end-user. :-)
Dan
> I have also seen poweramps where the user has managed to plug mains into
> the LS outlet. Not only sans working devices but also sans PCB track from
> devices to LS socket. An impressive error given the difference in
> connectors required. Never underestimate the ingenuity or determination of
> the end-user. :-)
An old schoolmate once wired an in-car CB radio to the mains after the
borrowed 12V PSU was reclaimed by its owner. It broke.
John Chapple
and.demon.co.uk> writes
>I have also seen poweramps where the user has managed to plug mains into
>the LS outlet. Not only sans working devices but also sans PCB track from
>devices to LS socket. An impressive error given the difference in
>connectors required. Never underestimate the ingenuity or determination of
>the end-user. :-)
Were these banana sockets?
Isn't this why banana plugs & sockets have been discontinued Too simliar
to the illegal plug often supplied with us/uk equipment.
A pity as they were a quite useful connector.
John Chapple Phone(+44) 1233 712868
'There are too many bright lights going out' Fax(+44) 1233 713698
Dave Powers
Jim Lesurf
<j...@ch-w.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In article <4a43e91...@st-and.demon.co.uk>, Jim Lesurf <jcgl@st-
> and.demon.co.uk> writes
> >I have also seen poweramps where the user has managed to plug mains
> >into the LS outlet. Not only sans working devices but also sans PCB
> >track from devices to LS socket. An impressive error given the
> >difference in connectors required. Never underestimate the ingenuity or
> >determination of the end-user. :-)
> Were these banana sockets?
Nope. The LS sockets were the old DIN style (two pins, one round, one
flat), and the mains socket was IEC. The error therefore required an
impressive mis-choice by the end user. :-)
John Chapple
and.demon.co.uk> writes
>> Were these banana sockets?
>
>Nope. The LS sockets were the old DIN style (two pins, one round, one
>flat), and the mains socket was IEC. The error therefore required an
>impressive mis-choice by the end user. :-)
Yes, that was an awful socket/plug, personally I think all din
plugs/sockets are crap
John Chapple