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RJH
Dec 8, 2012, 12:59:29 PM12/8/12
to
I've come by an old (1979) Sony music centre, and I'm going to have a go
at cleaning it up. It seems to be electrically/mechanically fine.
Couple of issues:
I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described as
'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a source? I'm
not going to spend a lot of money . . .
Certain parts - the cassette drawer, and the tuning preset surround -
are coated in what looks like old and decayed masking tape. I'd guess
it's the backing of some sort of facia covering. I'd like to smarten
this up. Assuming I can find a way of getting this off, any thoughts on
the best method of recovering these areas?
Ta, Rob
at cleaning it up. It seems to be electrically/mechanically fine.
Couple of issues:
I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described as
'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a source? I'm
not going to spend a lot of money . . .
Certain parts - the cassette drawer, and the tuning preset surround -
are coated in what looks like old and decayed masking tape. I'd guess
it's the backing of some sort of facia covering. I'd like to smarten
this up. Assuming I can find a way of getting this off, any thoughts on
the best method of recovering these areas?
Ta, Rob
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 8, 2012, 6:58:13 PM12/8/12
to
In article <50c38001$0$26490$c3e8da3$93ad...@news.astraweb.com>,
--
*When the going gets tough, the tough take a coffee break *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
RJH <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described as
> 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a source? I'm
> not going to spend a lot of money . . .
They're called festoon lamps which should help with your search.
> I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described as
> 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a source? I'm
> not going to spend a lot of money . . .
--
*When the going gets tough, the tough take a coffee break *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
RJH
Dec 9, 2012, 3:15:34 AM12/9/12
to
On 08/12/2012 23:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <50c38001$0$26490$c3e8da3$93ad...@news.astraweb.com>,
> RJH <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described as
>> 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a source? I'm
>> not going to spend a lot of money . . .
>
> They're called festoon lamps which should help with your search.
>
Excellent, thanks - here
> In article <50c38001$0$26490$c3e8da3$93ad...@news.astraweb.com>,
> RJH <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described as
>> 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a source? I'm
>> not going to spend a lot of money . . .
>
> They're called festoon lamps which should help with your search.
>
http://www.bltdirect.co.uk/festoon.htm
looks to be good. Problem I now have is the lack of 8V lamps - they tend
to be 6V or 12V.
Given these bulbs are 0.24W (tuning panel light - seems low?) and 1.6W
(tape deck meters) can I substitute a higher or lower voltage bulb? I'd
probably er on the side of caution/dimness - the bulb surrounds look
pretty charred.
Thanks, Rob
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 9, 2012, 6:15:58 AM12/9/12
to
In article <50c448a7$0$16611$c3e8da3$8cc2...@news.astraweb.com>,
There are LED festoon lamps - mainly to replace such things in car
interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth seeing if
those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier to alter the
brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low current lamps can be
very hard to source.
--
*A dog's not just for Christmas, it's alright on a Friday night too*
interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth seeing if
those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier to alter the
brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low current lamps can be
very hard to source.
--
*A dog's not just for Christmas, it's alright on a Friday night too*
RJH
Dec 30, 2012, 4:54:58 AM12/30/12
to
On 09/12/2012 11:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <50c448a7$0$16611$c3e8da3$8cc2...@news.astraweb.com>,
> RJH <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On 08/12/2012 23:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>>> In article <50c38001$0$26490$c3e8da3$93ad...@news.astraweb.com>, RJH
>>> <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described
>>>> as 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a
>>>> source? I'm not going to spend a lot of money . . .
>>>
>>> They're called festoon lamps which should help with your search.
>>>
>
>> Excellent, thanks - here
>
>> http://www.bltdirect.co.uk/festoon.htm
>
>> looks to be good. Problem I now have is the lack of 8V lamps - they tend
>> to be 6V or 12V.
>
>> Given these bulbs are 0.24W (tuning panel light - seems low?) and 1.6W
>> (tape deck meters) can I substitute a higher or lower voltage bulb? I'd
>> probably er on the side of caution/dimness - the bulb surrounds look
>> pretty charred.
>
> There are LED festoon lamps - mainly to replace such things in car
> interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth seeing if
> those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier to alter the
> brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low current lamps can be
> very hard to source.
>
Thanks. Finally getting round to it! Would the 8V feed be suitable for
> In article <50c448a7$0$16611$c3e8da3$8cc2...@news.astraweb.com>,
> RJH <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On 08/12/2012 23:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>>> In article <50c38001$0$26490$c3e8da3$93ad...@news.astraweb.com>, RJH
>>> <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> I need some bulbs - they're 13A plug fuse shaped/sized, and described
>>>> as 'lamp, pilot, 8.0V 30 mA'; and '8.0V 200mA'. Any ideas of a
>>>> source? I'm not going to spend a lot of money . . .
>>>
>>> They're called festoon lamps which should help with your search.
>>>
>
>> Excellent, thanks - here
>
>> http://www.bltdirect.co.uk/festoon.htm
>
>> looks to be good. Problem I now have is the lack of 8V lamps - they tend
>> to be 6V or 12V.
>
>> Given these bulbs are 0.24W (tuning panel light - seems low?) and 1.6W
>> (tape deck meters) can I substitute a higher or lower voltage bulb? I'd
>> probably er on the side of caution/dimness - the bulb surrounds look
>> pretty charred.
>
> There are LED festoon lamps - mainly to replace such things in car
> interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth seeing if
> those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier to alter the
> brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low current lamps can be
> very hard to source.
>
this type of thing:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighting-EVER-Festoon-Automotive-Daylight/dp/B004JRR59Y
or
http://tinyurl.com/aa4vhbg
(another Amazon example)
They'd be far too bright so I'd just use some sort of screen - but it's
the 8V I'm wary of.
Thanks, Rob
(Incidentally, apart from the bulbs it all works very well - a Sony HMK
80B music centre - even the tape deck. Good that service manuals still
freely available)
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 30, 2012, 5:19:01 AM12/30/12
to
In article <50e00f72$0$53211$c3e8da3$e5d1...@news.astraweb.com>,
do need DC - have you checked if the feed to the bulb is AC or DC? If it's
AC you'll need to add a diode.
--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?
RJH <rep...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > There are LED festoon lamps - mainly to replace such things in car
> > interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth seeing
> > if those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier to
> > alter the brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low
> > current lamps can be very hard to source.
> >
> Thanks. Finally getting round to it! Would the 8V feed be suitable for
> this type of thing:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighting-EVER-Festoon-Automotive-Daylight/dp/B004JRR59Y
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/aa4vhbg
> (another Amazon example)
> They'd be far too bright so I'd just use some sort of screen - but it's
> the 8V I'm wary of.
LEDs will come to no harm on reduced voltage. Just a bit dimmer. But they
> > There are LED festoon lamps - mainly to replace such things in car
> > interior lights, etc. Made up of several LEDs. Might be worth seeing
> > if those physically fit - no heat to speak of and perhaps easier to
> > alter the brightness. Basically, these sort of odd tungsten low
> > current lamps can be very hard to source.
> >
> Thanks. Finally getting round to it! Would the 8V feed be suitable for
> this type of thing:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighting-EVER-Festoon-Automotive-Daylight/dp/B004JRR59Y
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/aa4vhbg
> (another Amazon example)
> They'd be far too bright so I'd just use some sort of screen - but it's
> the 8V I'm wary of.
do need DC - have you checked if the feed to the bulb is AC or DC? If it's
AC you'll need to add a diode.
--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?
Woody
Dec 30, 2012, 8:55:05 AM12/30/12
to
"RJH" <rep...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:50e00f72$0$53211$c3e8da3$e5d1...@news.astraweb.com...
Beware. LED lamps (as distinct from individual LEDs if you see
what I mean) do generate some heat - hence why they fit huge
heatsinks on LED floodlights even though they are only 10-30W
rated.
Also don't get confused between volts and watts. Your first link
above is to a bulb to replace the 'normal 8W' interior light bulb
(actually 10W) in a car. Can you imagine how bright that would be
on a music centre - OK if you want to light the room as well!
You might do better with Maplin WL75S or WQ13P or BT53H or BU14Q
or BT43W, or maybe have a look at
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=411+2005+204869+110129918+110161956&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=pea+bulbs&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_CC&divisionLocale=en_CC&catalogId=&skipManufacturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=&prevNValues=411+2005+204869&mm=1002543||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=false&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D411%2B2005%2B204869%26Ntk%3Dgensearch%26Ntt%3Dpea%2Bbulbs%26Ntx%3Dmode%2Bmatchallpartial%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_CC%26divisionLocale%3Den_CC%26catalogId%3D%26skipManufacturer%3Dfalse%26skipParametricAttributeId%3D%26prevNValues%3D411%2B2005%2B204869
which has a number of sub-min bulbs.
Charles Hyde also have something like what you may need, but
again get the 12V version to underrun it
http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk/electrical-components/lighting-lamps-bulbs-torches-etc/lamps-bulbs-by-type-and-size/pilot-bulb-lamp-festoon-cap.html
Most dial lamps used to be 6V or 12V at around 40-60mA, or in
round figures about 250-750mW. They were almost always underrun
so that they glowed rather than shone, and of course being
underrun they would last nearly forever - although clearly not in
your case! You will be able to solder wires only any sub-min bulb
mount, just make sure that when in place the bulb cannot melt
anything around it - they may be underrun but they still get hot!
--
Woody
harrogate three at ntlworld dot com
news:50e00f72$0$53211$c3e8da3$e5d1...@news.astraweb.com...
what I mean) do generate some heat - hence why they fit huge
heatsinks on LED floodlights even though they are only 10-30W
rated.
Also don't get confused between volts and watts. Your first link
above is to a bulb to replace the 'normal 8W' interior light bulb
(actually 10W) in a car. Can you imagine how bright that would be
on a music centre - OK if you want to light the room as well!
You might do better with Maplin WL75S or WQ13P or BT53H or BU14Q
or BT43W, or maybe have a look at
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=411+2005+204869+110129918+110161956&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=pea+bulbs&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_CC&divisionLocale=en_CC&catalogId=&skipManufacturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=&prevNValues=411+2005+204869&mm=1002543||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=false&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D411%2B2005%2B204869%26Ntk%3Dgensearch%26Ntt%3Dpea%2Bbulbs%26Ntx%3Dmode%2Bmatchallpartial%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_CC%26divisionLocale%3Den_CC%26catalogId%3D%26skipManufacturer%3Dfalse%26skipParametricAttributeId%3D%26prevNValues%3D411%2B2005%2B204869
which has a number of sub-min bulbs.
Charles Hyde also have something like what you may need, but
again get the 12V version to underrun it
http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk/electrical-components/lighting-lamps-bulbs-torches-etc/lamps-bulbs-by-type-and-size/pilot-bulb-lamp-festoon-cap.html
Most dial lamps used to be 6V or 12V at around 40-60mA, or in
round figures about 250-750mW. They were almost always underrun
so that they glowed rather than shone, and of course being
underrun they would last nearly forever - although clearly not in
your case! You will be able to solder wires only any sub-min bulb
mount, just make sure that when in place the bulb cannot melt
anything around it - they may be underrun but they still get hot!
--
Woody
harrogate three at ntlworld dot com
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 30, 2012, 10:03:15 AM12/30/12
to
In article <kbph3p$pdv$1...@dont-email.me>,
tungsten.
> Also don't get confused between volts and watts. Your first link
> above is to a bulb to replace the 'normal 8W' interior light bulb
> (actually 10W) in a car. Can you imagine how bright that would be
> on a music centre - OK if you want to light the room as well!
The main problem will be getting something to physically fit the space of
the original bulb. If this LED one does and is too bright, just add series
resistance 'till it looks right.
--
*If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before
Woody <harro...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> Beware. LED lamps (as distinct from individual LEDs if you see
> what I mean) do generate some heat - hence why they fit huge
> heatsinks on LED floodlights even though they are only 10-30W
> rated.
They will always produce less heat than an equivalent light output
> Beware. LED lamps (as distinct from individual LEDs if you see
> what I mean) do generate some heat - hence why they fit huge
> heatsinks on LED floodlights even though they are only 10-30W
> rated.
tungsten.
> Also don't get confused between volts and watts. Your first link
> above is to a bulb to replace the 'normal 8W' interior light bulb
> (actually 10W) in a car. Can you imagine how bright that would be
> on a music centre - OK if you want to light the room as well!
the original bulb. If this LED one does and is too bright, just add series
resistance 'till it looks right.
--
*If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before
Owain
Dec 30, 2012, 10:47:17 AM12/30/12
to
On Dec 8, 5:59 pm, RJH wrote:
> Certain parts - the cassette drawer, and the tuning preset surround -
> are coated in what looks like old and decayed masking tape. I'd guess
> it's the backing of some sort of facia covering. I'd like to smarten
> this up. Assuming I can find a way of getting this off, any thoughts on
> the best method of recovering these areas?
Used to be able to get brushed aluminium effect laminate sheet from
> Certain parts - the cassette drawer, and the tuning preset surround -
> are coated in what looks like old and decayed masking tape. I'd guess
> it's the backing of some sort of facia covering. I'd like to smarten
> this up. Assuming I can find a way of getting this off, any thoughts on
> the best method of recovering these areas?
Maplin etc for front panels. It was more rigid than the flexi vinyl
used for signmaking and vehicle wrapping, but if you have a flat
surface (or can achieve one with plastic filler) then the flexi stuff
s's widely available.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Adhesive-Brushed-Aluminium-Effect-making/dp/B0075TP8UG
http://www.vinyldepot.co.uk/product.php?id_product=263
Signmakers might have semi-rigid versions available.
Owain
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 30, 2012, 1:42:07 PM12/30/12
to
In article
<2bc20df0-178e-4261...@r14g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
RS do anodised thin sheet which you can etch in a variety of colours using
your printer to produce a negative. The kit is quite expensive, but the
results superb.
--
*Why 'that tie suits you' but 'those shoes suit you'?*
<2bc20df0-178e-4261...@r14g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
your printer to produce a negative. The kit is quite expensive, but the
results superb.
--
*Why 'that tie suits you' but 'those shoes suit you'?*
RJH
Jan 6, 2013, 6:27:45 AM1/6/13
to
transfer, and used to carry graphics/text like preset number and logo -
I can see this from some archive photos I've got.
This possibly means that vinyl etc might be too thick? Anyways, I'll
have a look in a local craft shop - gloss vinyl might look good.
So I have another issue - reproducing the text. Dave's suggested kit
look good but beyond what I'm willing to spend. So for now I'll leave
the text side of things - although perhaps letraset?
Rob
Owain
Jan 6, 2013, 5:23:33 PM1/6/13
to
On Jan 6, 11:27 am, RJH wrote:
> So I have another issue - reproducing the text. Dave's suggested kit
> look good but beyond what I'm willing to spend. So for now I'll leave
> the text side of things - although perhaps letraset?
reverse-print on overhead projection transparency film (so the print
> So I have another issue - reproducing the text. Dave's suggested kit
> look good but beyond what I'm willing to spend. So for now I'll leave
> the text side of things - although perhaps letraset?
is underneath the film) and stick on with clear sprayglue.
Owain
RJH
Jan 7, 2013, 3:49:46 AM1/7/13
to
Rob
Dave Plowman (News)
Jan 7, 2013, 5:17:17 AM1/7/13
to
In article <50ea8c2c$0$42057$c3e8da3$fb48...@news.astraweb.com>,
Using a laminator on decent paper is another way. But all these tend to
look like what they are.
--
*i souport publik edekashun.
look like what they are.
--
*i souport publik edekashun.
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