sandpiper antennas
2m0-sil
would like to know if anyone on the group owns one of the sandpiper
range of antennas.
im looking for views on performance, build quility etc.
thanks--john.
alex sutton
Why not buy a new brain the one you have
is filled with silly ideas jack ass the horrible
podgy podgy
Come back to CB radio john it's a real man's band
for little boys like you with deluded ides and call
yourself a radio amateur
podgy podgy
podgy podgy
Vote Here is john connolly a jack ass
podgy podgy
SHOULD JOHN CONNOLLY 2M0SIL BE SECTIONED UNDER THE MENTAL HEALTH ACT
VOTE HERE
G4DHJ/ A
"2m0-sil" <jon...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bdcea6ad-546a-477a...@q1g2000vbj.googlegroups.com...
I would pass......
2m0-sil
> 2m0-sil wrote:
> > hello,
> > would like to know if anyone on the group owns one of the sandpiper
> > range of antennas.
>
>
> > im looking for views on performance, build quility etc.
>
> loaded vertical; not brilliant, but far, far better than the dummy-
> load-with-microwatt-bleedoff types. Build quality is generally good,
> and has improved in the last couple of years (I had to drill and re-
> tap most of the elements on the V9 due to me being cack-handed with SS
> screws into tapped aluminium ferrules but this is no longer a problem
> as I believe they have changed the ferrules to SS). I also had to
> reconnect the 80m element's coil on the inboard end as it had come
> adrift. However, in mitigation, the weather up here is not exactly
> what you'd call calm and it did get some hammer that winter.
>
> They're a good compromise for small yards. You *do* need a bloody good
> ground to get the best out of them, so don't think for one second that
> you're going to avoid digging, laying radials/mats and driving earth
> rods. Since these are loaded with a low impedance feedpoint, earth
> losses affect greatly the overall performance. Be prepared to bugger
> about with the V9 to tune it if you don't have a dip meter or antenna
> analyser. You'll get to the stage where you think it'll never tune and
> feel like giving up, but persevere as they really do tune to spec.
>
> Also watch the SO-239 sockets; they're weatherproof, but the bracket
> is only held by one measly little machine screw and corrosion builds
> up between the socket and the clamp plate causing grounding problems.
> If it ever stops performing, check this first. Ideally, give the area
> around the SO239 bracket a good seeing-to with silicone grease (NOT
> WD-40) on installation and at regular periods of maintenance.
>
> In their favour is that Chris delivers excellent after-sales service.
> He has always replied to e-mails, usually the same day. They are the
> manufacturer, thus spares can be had at reasonable prices and they're
> in the UK. I can't fault the service at all.
>
> HTH.
> --
> Radio glossary #27
> RSGB: The Random Selection of Good Buddies who couldn't find their own
> arses with a map and talk-in.
thanks for taking the time to reply.
seems it has a few pros and cons this antenna so will have to have a
good think about it.
Spike
Chronos wrote:
>2m0-sil wrote:
>
>> thanks for taking the time to reply.
>> seems it has a few pros and cons this antenna so will have to have a
>> good think about it.
>
>John, all multi-band compact aerials are a compromise.
>
>Tell us what your bands of interest are and your available space and
>someone with a little more aerial-fu than me may be able to suggest
>something that isn't such a compromise that maximises your potential.
>Have a think and get back to us. We're always willing to answer
>questions like this.
Matt, I've had a big snip of the very cogent points you made, and I
urge the PP to take them to heart.
Basically, in order to give the PP some options, it would really be
helpful of we knew what size of ground he had available, what sort of
ground it is (clay, rock, agricultural land, etc), what the
surroundings are like (urban, country, rich in trees), but more
importantly, what the PP wants to achieve.
It might be that an 'all-bands' solution isn't on the cards - remember
all those postings from a few years ago about newcomers being
disappointed with the performance of their G5RV, expecting it do do
everything? Most of them never realised that on the higher bands there
were deep nulls in the radiation pattern - and if these fall in your
target area, you're doomed.
Too many Amateurs spend �thousands on a rig, but the most important
part of the station is the aerial - and that in turn is affected by
location and ground characteristics as well as the people that live
close by.
I hope the PP realises that this is a learning curve, but that the
'experimentation' part of the Amateur licence.
PS: I'm not claiming to be an expert on aerials, but one does see the
same pitfalls being suffered time and again by the unwary.
PPS: I have a feeling that PP is in my kill file, so I might not see
any response by him.
--
Spike
2m0-sil
> those "hybrid quad" compact beams do not live up to their price tag,
> simply because they're trying to bend the rules. It's the same with
> these - they'll get you QRV, but they're never going to allow you to
> mix it with the big guns.
>
> Tell us what your bands of interest are and your available space and
> someone with a little more aerial-fu than me may be able to suggest
> something that isn't such a compromise that maximises your potential.
> interests, which will make your time spent on the radio more
> worthwhile. Blindly trying commercial aerials can be very frustrating,
> not to mention being expensive, and there's simply no need. Aerials
> are simple and cheap to make and it's very satisfying to use something
> you created rather than being tied down by compromises someone else
> decided for you, not to mention having to pay for the privilege.
>
> Also remember the simpler an aerial is, the less the losses. Traps,
> loading coils, every single joint all contribute to RL (resistive
> losses) which, on an aerial with a low radiation resistance such as a
> ground fed quarter wave (or something pretending to be one), makes a
> significant impact on your radiated signal. This is why balanced
> aerials such as doublets and dipoles are popular - they minimise RL,
> particularly ground resistance, are simple to construct and don't cost
> the earth.
>
> Steve Webb's "CobWebb" is a good example of lateral thinking with
> simple balanced aerials. It's basically a nest of dipoles. The shape
> gives you an omnidirectional radiation pattern and the ends of the
> elements being in close proximity minimises pickup of electrical noise
> like a loop. Each square is a full sized double-gamma matched dipole
> in its own right so RL is kept low, efficiency is preserved and the
> dipoles are a good match to 50 Ohms.
>
> Have a think and get back to us. We're always willing to answer
> questions like this.
> Radio glossary #48
> Radio ham: Cured pork warmed in the microwave.
thanks again for the reply,
i will try and explain my situation and this should give you a better
understanding to the type of antenna i need.
my src x80 is situated in the front garden the size of which is around
20 by 14 foot
.i have a useful sized back garden but it is crossed by telephone
cables but the main problem with the back is a neighbours tv that has
very poor immunity.
i have tried wire antennas in the past but they interfere with the
upstairs neighbours tv through a loft mounted tv antenna.
so at this present location it has to be a vertical which i know is a
compromise.
what im looking for is the best compromise i can get.
Colin Watson 10TorbexRdCumnbernauld
500FT OR RG58 AND BIG DUMMY LOAD IN THE LOAFT THAT SHOULD SORT BYOU
OUT MR CONNELLY
2m0-sil
> Spike wrote:
> > Matt, I've had a big snip of the very cogent points you made, and I
> > urge the PP to take them to heart.
>
>
> > Basically, in order to give the PP some options, it would really be
> > helpful of we knew what size of ground he had available, what sort
> > of ground it is (clay, rock, agricultural land, etc), what the
> > surroundings are like (urban, country, rich in trees), but more
> > importantly, what the PP wants to achieve.
>
> dictates both the type and height required, which is an essential
> consideration.
>
> > It might be that an 'all-bands' solution isn't on the cards -
> > remember all those postings from a few years ago about newcomers
> > being disappointed with the performance of their G5RV, expecting it
> > do do everything? Most of them never realised that on the higher
> > bands there were deep nulls in the radiation pattern - and if these
> > fall in your target area, you're doomed.
>
> There's a lot of it about in aerials, probably because it is the least
> understood (or most neglected) subject in amateur radio. It's easy to
> make astonishing claims when your target market knows next to nothing
> about what you're claiming.
>
> > Too many Amateurs spend £thousands on a rig, but the most important
> > part of the station is the aerial - and that in turn is affected by
> > location and ground characteristics as well as the people that live
> > close by.
>
> power" is a common phrase, but no mention of SNR, receive performance
> and efficiency. You can't work what you can't hear, after all.
>
> Speaking of which, with this vertical, a null steerer is almost
> essential. With the voltage node of the aerial being open, it tends to
> pick up every last bit of noise, from plasma TVs to misbehaving
> SMPSUs. The X-Phase [1] I built a while ago has become indispensable,
> especially on top band. Last night I had and S9 level of noise with
> the typical "tractor idling" sound of a plasma with the steerer off.
> With it on, the background noise was S3 with all stations on the
> 1942kc/s net coming up out of the noise floor nicely. The moral here
> is there's more than one way to achieve what you want, i.e. good
> ground wave performance with low noise on receive that would normally
> need two sperarate aerials for transmit and receive. This is a rural
> location, so how bad it is for an urban dweller I dread to think.
>
> > I hope the PP realises that this is a learning curve, but that the
> > 'experimentation' part of the Amateur licence.
>
>
> > PS: I'm not claiming to be an expert on aerials, but one does see
> > the same pitfalls being suffered time and again by the unwary.
>
> Your modesty is becoming, but you really do have an insight into these
> matters that can be invaluable.
>
> > PPS: I have a feeling that PP is in my kill file, so I might not see
> > any response by him.
>
> willing to play the game. This subject is exactly what this group
> needs as a break from the drivel.
>
> [1] The noise aerial is simply a wire stapled to the skirting board in
> the shack. It follows the ring main's route, so it tends to get
> everything on the same phase as the three closest neighbours without
> picking up wanted signals which works well for plasmas, SMPSUs and
> Comtrends.
> --
> Radio glossary #30
> RadCom: Otherwise known as the Waters and Stanton catalogue.
yes noise is a common problem with my setup--it only affects certain
bands though.
Spike
Chronos wrote:
>Spike wrote:
>
>> Matt, I've had a big snip of the very cogent points you made, and I
>> urge the PP to take them to heart.
>
>It was a bit long, wasn't it? ;o)
LOL...I wasn't having a pop!
>> Basically, in order to give the PP some options, it would really be
>> helpful of we knew what size of ground he had available, what sort
>> of ground it is (clay, rock, agricultural land, etc), what the
>> surroundings are like (urban, country, rich in trees), but more
>> importantly, what the PP wants to achieve.
>
>Yes, I forgot to mention that important detail. Ground resistance
>dictates both the type and height required, which is an essential
>consideration.
<snip>
>That's the thing that I don't understand, too. "We can just use more
>power" is a common phrase, but no mention of SNR, receive performance
>and efficiency. You can't work what you can't hear, after all.
You should have written that last sentence in capitals, it's
fundamental. Getting a station 'engineered or 'designed' to do what
you want could well be based around that as a starting point.
>Speaking of which, with this vertical, a null steerer is almost
>essential. With the voltage node of the aerial being open, it tends to
>pick up every last bit of noise, from plasma TVs to misbehaving
>SMPSUs. The X-Phase [1] I built a while ago has become indispensable,
>especially on top band.
Is that related to a Jones aerial?
I've never built one but am close to doing so, as noise levels creep
ever upwards.
>> I hope the PP realises that this is a learning curve, but that the
>> 'experimentation' part of the Amateur licence.
>
>Just so.
>
>> PS: I'm not claiming to be an expert on aerials, but one does see
>> the same pitfalls being suffered time and again by the unwary.
>
>Well, I have first-hand experience of your advice and it works well.
>Your modesty is becoming, but you really do have an insight into these
>matters that can be invaluable.
That's nice of you to say so, but when I have a punt around on the web
I realise there's people out there that know shedloads more than I
ever will about the topic. What I try to do is balance what is
attainable with some consideration of topics that don't seem to play
as prominent a part as they should - such as the questions posed to
the OP about those factors that will affect his station.
If he's in an urban location, perhaps the first thing he should do is
build a simple noise canceller for one band, and take it from there.
>> PPS: I have a feeling that PP is in my kill file, so I might not see
>> any response by him.
>
>He is in mine too, but everyone gets a second chance if they're
>willing to play the game. This subject is exactly what this group
>needs as a break from the drivel.
Quite so!
>[1] The noise aerial is simply a wire stapled to the skirting board in
>the shack. It follows the ring main's route, so it tends to get
>everything on the same phase as the three closest neighbours without
>picking up wanted signals which works well for plasmas, SMPSUs and
>Comtrends.
Respect.....That's a clever approach, and clearly an effective one.
--
Spike
2m0-sil
>
> - Show quoted text -
the ground outside is soil covered clay.
i have elevated houses to the rear and a clear take-off from the front
through some trees.
the neighbours can go f..k themselves due to their bad attitude.
everything in the shack has ferrite rings and i also use an lpf.
no interference to tvs in house there are 4 all flatscreen--no issues.
bands i like to work 40 through 10 and i dont use11m lol.
MM6-JBN
Make a vertical for each band you wont to work .
Ian Jackson
writes
>Chronos wrote:
>
>> No, it's a German designed null-steerer
>
>Little low-quality (read: awful) video of it in action on the '101:
>
>http://www.chronos.org.uk/X-Phase.ogg
>
>Note the starting signal meter reading. Over S9 of crap.
>
>Here's the accompanying audio file of the plasma noise getting
>squashed:
>
>http://www.chronos.org.uk/X-Phase.mp3
>
>This thing has improved reception dramatically.
With the audio file, to demonstrate its effectiveness, you really need
to turn the AGC off (or turn the RF gain down, and the AF gain up).
--
Ian
Spike
Chronos wrote:
>2m0-sil wrote:
>
>> i will try and explain my situation and this should give you a
>> better understanding to the type of antenna i need.
>> my src x80 is situated in the front garden the size of which is
>> around 20 by 14 foot
I seem to be mising at least one posting by the PP.
This is what I understand his situation is:
-----
>>The ground outside is soil covered clay.
>>There are elevated houses to the rear and a clear take-off from the front
>> through some trees.
>>There is a useful sized back garden but it is crossed by telephone cables.
>>
>>The neighbours are not enthusiastic supporters of Amateur Radio;
>> their TV appears to have very poor immunity.
>>
>>Everything in the shack has ferrite rings and I also use a LPF.
>>There is no interference to TVs in house; they are all modern flatscreen type.
>>
>>I like to work 40 through 10 but have no interest in 11m.
>>
>>I have a SRC X80 situated in the front garden, which is about 20 by 14 feet.
-----
>The SRC X80 is just a CB type monopole/GP modified with a 9:1 un-un in
>a plastic box at the feedpoint instead of the matching coil. It's a
>typical example of what would be, with wire instead of the aluminium
>vertical, a SWL's long wire. Again, it'll get you QRV but it's not
>even close to efficient on any of the bands.
I don't know the antenna, but it does smack of a general-purpose
receiving set-up. One reason that it doesn't appear to cause TVI to
the neighbour (I take it that is so) is that it isn't radiating much
power.
As it will be coax-fed, the first thing I would say to the PP is to
wind a choke at the base of the antenna, to stop any RF coming back
towards the shack. Six or eight turns might be enough - it doesn't
have to be pretty, but it just might get rid of the RF/breakthrough
problem.
Bing...just seen the spec. An ATU seems mandatory, which suggests the
coax is well up the air to RF, as the ATU will likely be at the rig
end. This could well be a source of problems. If winding a choke at
the antenna end causes the ATU tuning to go off, then the coax will be
live - not a good siutation.
>Do you talk to your neighbours? Could you try a braid breaker on their
>feeder and a ferrite on the supply cable? When you say poor immunity,
>does this manifest itself on the digibox (loss of signal, assuming
>you're DSO'd already) or the TV itself? If they're not digital, it may
>be worth spending the �20-ish to get them a cheap freeview box, which
>may not suffer from the picture quality issues of analogue reception.
>Look at it as an investment in your hobby rather than a gift to them.
>If they have a digibox, ensure they're using SCART or similar rather
>than the UHF modulator output.
I'd say - and the PP has also hinted - that his biggest problem is
less antenna technology than the neighbours and their breakthrough
problem.
I'd agree with your approach: try some simple braid-breakers, if
that's possible. If not, then no matter how much it grates, buy them
off by getting rid of the problem. The cheap set-top box idea might be
the way to go, provided the neighbour's TV has a SCART socket. A
'nuclear option' might be to buy them a modern TV. Compared to the
price of most rigs it could be a relatively cheap way forward. It
needs to be looked at as an investment in Amateur Radio. With the
Olympics coming it could be just what they want. However, this is a
judgment for the PP to make.
>With the telephone cables, you're also going to suffer from noise. How
>you deal with that depends on a number of factors, not least being
>aerial you choose. That is a topic for after your decision on a
>reasonably efficient aerial system.
>
>> i have tried wire antennas in the past but they interfere with the
>> upstairs neighbours tv through a loft mounted tv antenna.
>
>Bear in mind this may be a feeder radiation/unwanted RF in the
>building issue rather than your aerial itself. With balanced aerials
>fed with coaxial, you'll need at least a common mode choke to stop
>currents on the feeder from causing problems. Since they're upstairs,
>you are most likely on the same mains phase and your feeder will
>probably run parallel to the mains wiring in places. You need to
>minimise RF in the building before writing off horizontal aerials.
>
>> so at this present location it has to be a vertical which i know is
>> a compromise.
>
>It doesn't have to be. Verticals, as we've said here in the past, have
>some very useful characteristics. It all depends on which bands are
>most important to you. We need some more information: Firstly, your
>location's topography, i.e. density of buildings and trees, the state
>of the ground and which bands you are mostly interested in.
I'd suggest to the PP that he gets a second-hand 11m-band vertical,
removes any tuning unit at the base, connects the centre of the SO-239
to the mast, and run a 1k several watts resistor across the SO-239
terminals to ground the static. Then collapse it to about 5m in height
and use it on 20m, fine tuning the length for lowest SWR. Shorten it
a bit more to get on 17m - a nice band to work, especially if keeping
the power down. Add four radial wires culled from scrap mains cable,
just lay them on the surface. See what the problems turn up with
neighbours, etc.
This sort of thing has got to be one step at a time.
--
Spike
Spike
Chronos wrote:
>Couple of off-on cycles with ACG off:
>
>http://www.chronos.org.uk/X-Phase2.mp3
>
>Note that the main aerial gain on the X-Phase is at maximum, so no
>wanted signal attenuation.
Sounds impressive.
--
Spike
Brian Morrison
Chronos <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> I've had people look at me as if I'm mad when I suggest these things
> but I firmly believe it is not only our duty to put these things
> right, it's also essential for the future of amateur radio to educate
> people whilst doing so.
I agree Matt, but the problem is that the level of ignorance of an
amateur's technical knowledge is high and in some cases the very first
complaint received comes wrapped around a brick or poured through the
letterbox. It may be trivial to fix, but if you're PNG before even
offering to sort things out then it's hard to make any progress.
I've known my neighbours, and got on well with them, for about 14 years
but still they came round and accused me of causing interference
instantly and were most miffed when I was able to demonstrate that I
was not transmitting on any of the occasions mentioned, in fact in
several cases not transmitting at any time that day.
--
Brian Morrison
Spike
Chronos wrote:
>Spike wrote:
>
>> and run a 1k several watts resistor across the SO-239
>> terminals to ground the static.
>
>I've been using a 1M 0.25W resistor on the feedpoint of my verticals
>for this. Is that not sufficient? I had toyed with the idea of a large
>choke for the same purpose but haven't tested that one yet.
A choke would be a good idea as it makes a DC path to ground, but if
doing aerial experimentation just could give odd effects that might
affect the results.
The figure I'd had in mind for many years for a bleed resistor was 1k,
culled IIRC from an RSGB source - so it must be authoritative ;-)
At the end of the day it's a balance beween not affecting the SWR or
antenna tuning, and the rate at which static could be bled off. I can
imagine that there's a fortunately few occasions where 1M couldn't
bleed it away fast enough, whereas a 1k might.
HTH...
--
Spike
Spike
Chronos wrote:
>Spike wrote:
>
>> I'd agree with your approach: try some simple braid-breakers, if
>> that's possible. If not, then no matter how much it grates, buy them
>> off by getting rid of the problem. The cheap set-top box idea might
>> be the way to go, provided the neighbour's TV has a SCART socket. A
>> 'nuclear option' might be to buy them a modern TV. Compared to the
>> price of most rigs it could be a relatively cheap way forward. It
>> needs to be looked at as an investment in Amateur Radio. With the
>> Olympics coming it could be just what they want. However, this is a
>> judgment for the PP to make.
>
>You know Spike, I'm glad that I'm not the only one who doesn't see
>getting things done for neighbours as wasted time. As I said, I treat
>it as an investment in my own chosen activity rather than a giveaway.
>I haven't had any problems with neighbours by approaching them this
>way and it keeps everyone happy, not to mention working wonders for
>amateur radio's image.
>
>Nine times out of ten they end up with better reception as a side-
>effect. I've been up on roofs replacing waterlogged coax, soldered
>umpteen floating Belling-Lees, removed cheap and nasty preamplifiers,
>made high pass filters and braid breakers [1] and wound so many mains
>leads around toroids that I've lost count. Every single time I've
>cured the issue and the neighbour involved usually says something like
>"so it was my telly after all!" They're then not afraid to come to me
>with any further problems instead of the first action being to
>complain to the authorities.
>
>I've had people look at me as if I'm mad when I suggest these things
>but I firmly believe it is not only our duty to put these things
>right, it's also essential for the future of amateur radio to educate
>people whilst doing so.
I don't normally requote the whole of a post just to add a one-liner,
but then...BTDTGTTS.
It might not win life-long friends sometimes, but it does show that
the persuasive "you were transmitting so it must be your fault"
approach is too simplistic.
>[1] A while back someone posted the "How to resolve TVI" information
>sheet on here. Both braid breakers and high-pass filters are covered
>and are really simple for the average amateur to build.
Yes, they are, I've made a few in my time...;-)
--
Spike
2m0-sil
> > bands though.
>
> drawbacks of any monopole setup. Indeed, a half wave dipole will pick
> up noise just because of where its high impedance points end up (the
> ends) which you really can't do much about. The offset centre fed
> dipole (commonly called a Windom but isn't) can be useful in such
> situations on it's higher bands (the high impedance points are still
> at the ends on its fundamental) and likely will give you more coverage
> as a serendipitous aside but watch those radiation patterns Spike
> warned us about. Most will require you to do some form of impedance
> transformation. For example:
>
> http://www.scribd.com/doc/19452334/OCFDipole-40m-to-10M
>
> A 4:1 transformer is trivial to construct. Just run about 12-15 turns
> bifillar on a suitable toroid (a T130-6 will be fine for up to 300W on
> 40-10m) should do the job. They have used a ferrite rod. A toroid
> would be slightly better if you're supporting the feedpoint from
> something metallic as toroids tend to contain the magnetic field
> within the torus, hence tend not to be affected by nearby metallic
> structures. No need for a static bleed on these as the transformer
> provides a DC path to ground.
>
> Other solutions here can be to change the RX aerial for something like
> a loop which is less sensitive to local electrical noise or build a
> nuller and use a noise aerial.
> --
> Radio glossary #15
> Valve: A device which stops spiders taking up residence in your PA
> compartment. Chinese types tend to make you wish they would as they
> have as many legs and would be more use.
thanks to all who replied.
the src x80 is basically a modified 5/8 wave cb silver-rod with a 9-1
unun at the bottom.
an 8 turn choke was added in the coax when the antenna was installed.
as for the neighbours tv--i simply wont deal with anyone who comes to
my door complaining with an attitude.
they simply get the number for ofcom and a copy of my licence and
thats it.
i was blamed for my next doors tv reception going off even though the
radio was off at the time.
when the neighbour found out that workmen had dug through the
communial ariel--by me i may add as i went looking for the problem--no
apology was forthcoming.
so i agree with brian if they see an antenna on your property you must
be to blame.
gareth
news:355d6f8e-26b1-44e2...@j25g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
# the src x80 is basically a modified 5/8 wave cb silver-rod
Says it all, really.
MM6-JBN
> "2m0-sil" <jonc...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
>
> news:355d6f8e-26b1-44e2...@j25g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
> # the src x80 is basically a modified 5/8 wave cb silver-rod
>
> Says it all, really.
Why dont you explaine what you think it says gareth .
Maybe you see think wrong or just different . Why not
explain more clearly. . . .
gareth
news:2055c365-463a-4987...@j31g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 21, 8:16 am, "gareth" <no.s...@thank.you.invalid> wrote:
> "2m0-sil" <jonc...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:355d6f8e-26b1-44e2...@j25g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
> # the src x80 is basically a modified 5/8 wave cb silver-rod
> Says it all, really.
# Why dont you explaine what you think it says gareth .
# Maybe you see think wrong or just different . Why not
# explain more clearly. . . .
The meaning is clear to all those who are not dyed-in-the-wool CBers.
2m0-sil
>
> news:355d6f8e-26b1-44e2...@j25g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
> # the src x80 is basically a modified 5/8 wave cb silver-rod
>
> Says it all, really.
yes it does gareth--just imagine a company selling modified cb
antennas and passing them off as multi-band amateur antennas--thats
new how shocking.
this reply is for chronos anyway.
i totally agree with you regarding the spirit of amateur radio and i
did my best to resolve the problem including moving the antenna from
the rear to the front of the building and running qrp for a long time
but the neighbours were obstructive and abusive so i printed off
contact details for ofcom and a copy of my licence.
i think the thought of paying ofcom £50 to resolve a problem that i
wasnt creating solved the issue.
all a can say is dont buy cheap branded lcd tvs.
but getting back to it ive really enjoyed the feedback on this topic
and even though some of the advice was already in place regarding the
antenna it was welcome anyway it may even have helped some other
newcomer with similar problems.
i will wait till the weather clears up and try some of the things
mentioned.
thanks again.
gareth
# ... the neighbours were obstructive and abusive ...
Perhaps they follow the example in their turn of their
own neighbour?
2m0-sil
> > did my best to resolve the problem including moving the antenna from
> > the rear to the front of the building and running qrp for a long
> > time but the neighbours were obstructive and abusive so i printed
> > off contact details for ofcom and a copy of my licence.
>
> enough. Sometimes people can be so confrontational that they can't be
> helped. I should count myself lucky that I have never had this
> situation arise.
>
> > i think the thought of paying ofcom £50 to resolve a problem that i
> > wasnt creating solved the issue.
>
>
> > all a can say is dont buy cheap branded lcd tvs.
>
> pence by not fitting all the EMC stuff...
>
> > but getting back to it ive really enjoyed the feedback on this topic
> > and even though some of the advice was already in place regarding
> > the antenna it was welcome anyway it may even have helped some other
> > newcomer with similar problems.
> > i will wait till the weather clears up and try some of the things
> > mentioned.
> > thanks again.
>
> modified "silver rod" type GP. Another little secret between you, me
> and this very private group is that the un-un can be thrown together
> for about a fiver with box. It's a T130-2 with 9 turns trifillar.
>
> http://www.m0ukd.com/Magnetic_Long_Wire_UnUn/index.php
>
> It's a basic 9:1 transformer. I must have made tens of them. Beware of
> snake oil; if it seems too good to be true, it most likely is.
> Spotting is comes with experience ;o)
>
> BTW, folks, I remember a few years back a monopole made of 300R twin
> that went by the name of something like G2CV (well, a Gn+2 anyway, I'm
> probably thinking of that godawful French car). Anyone remember it? It
> had a rather convoluted toroid based balun IIRC and it was one of Pat
> Hawker's "revisited" articles. I threw one together but never got
> around to putting it up.
> --
> Radio glossary #53
> Battery: Commonly phrased with "assault", this is usually the result
> of the annual repeater group get-together.
the antenna actually works well 20 through 10 its tricky to tune on 40
but does tune eventually.
as for 80--it recieves well.
i cant fault the company but it should have been advertised as a 40-10
antenna.
MM6-JBN
> > did my best to resolve the problem including moving the antenna from
> > the rear to the front of the building and running qrp for a long
> > time but the neighbours were obstructive and abusive so i printed
> > off contact details for ofcom and a copy of my licence.
>
> enough. Sometimes people can be so confrontational that they can't be
> helped. I should count myself lucky that I have never had this
> situation arise.
>
> > wasnt creating solved the issue.
>
>
> > all a can say is dont buy cheap branded lcd tvs.
>
> pence by not fitting all the EMC stuff...
>
> > and even though some of the advice was already in place regarding
> > the antenna it was welcome anyway it may even have helped some other
> > newcomer with similar problems.
> > i will wait till the weather clears up and try some of the things
> > mentioned.
> > thanks again.
>
> modified "silver rod" type GP. Another little secret between you, me
> and this very private group is that the un-un can be thrown together
> for about a fiver with box. It's a T130-2 with 9 turns trifillar.
>
> http://www.m0ukd.com/Magnetic_Long_Wire_UnUn/index.php
>
> It's a basic 9:1 transformer. I must have made tens of them. Beware of
> snake oil; if it seems too good to be true, it most likely is.
> Spotting is comes with experience ;o)
>
> BTW, folks, I remember a few years back a monopole made of 300R twin
> that went by the name of something like G2CV (well, a Gn+2 anyway, I'm
> probably thinking of that godawful French car). Anyone remember it? It
> had a rather convoluted toroid based balun IIRC and it was one of Pat
> Hawker's "revisited" articles. I threw one together but never got
> around to putting it up.
> --
> Radio glossary #53
> Battery: Commonly phrased with "assault", this is usually the result
> of the annual repeater group get-together.
Hb9cv . Two elle beam . What can be made for 2m/6m/10m/
15m or 20m . . . ? A have seen articals on this and many hams claimin
it as their own . . . .