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But how wrong he was. For this is the age of not only the female designer but also the behind-the-scenes, no-name designer: Philo (feline), Giannini (Gucci), Burton (Alexander McQueen), Emma Hill (Mulberry), Waight Keller (Chloe) and so on-all of them hack- room talents who ended up in the driver's seat but with no fanfare surrounding their appointments. "It's not that women are any more sensitive than men, but they do tend to be less ego-driven," points out Karla Otto, a fashion PR rep whose global business spans 28 years. "I've worked closely with Miuccia Prada, Jil Sander and many others, and if I see one common thing, it's that [women designers] focus more on the work than on being a star."
"It's more about backbone, not super-stars" is how stylist Grace Cobb sums up the current shift. She has worked with Diane von Furstenherg ("she's all woman-about as female as you can get") and Roberto Cavalli ("an alpha male, in fact, beyond masculine"). "It's a generational thing; people are just cooler, more low-key," says Cobb. "The age of the superstar designer is over. It's more about managing super-brands, and I think that women are really good at that."
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