My requirements will be: full soundproofing, projector (probably CRT), large
screen (wide aspect ratio) and digital surround sound with plenty of bass.
Maybe THX-approved equipment would be nice. The question is: what should I
look for in the house I buy? For example, a garage attached to the house? If
so, what size? Or would a room in the house be better? Or a cellar, loft
conversion or detached garage?
If anyone could let me know which type of venue gives the best results,
together with approximate size required and any other constraints, I can
take it into account when choosing a house. Again, I must stress that full
soundproofing is required so that even very loud volumes would not be
audible outside the chosen location.
Thanks in advance,
Toby.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Toby Sharp, B.Sc. (Hons), G.I.M.A.
Senior Software Developer
Serif Europe Ltd
mailto:tsh...@vizacom.com
-----------------------------------------------------------
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Toby Sharp, B.Sc. (Hons), G.I.M.A.
Senior Software Developer
Serif Europe Ltd
mailto:tsh...@vizacom.com
-----------------------------------------------------------
As a starting point, if you are projecting, then a nice size image is 8 feet
wide. This means your cinema room needs to be at least 10 feet wide (room
for speakers either side of screen) by about 15 feet long. Room length must
be at least 1.5 times the screen width = 12 feet. But you'll want plenty of
leeway for soundproofing.
Also consider that a concrete floor is considered best as far as I know.
> Also consider that a concrete floor is considered best as far as I know.
Absolutely. Even in my compromise living room setup with no sub woofer
(yet) the suspended concrete acts like a bass amplifier - it truly rumbles
and conducts vibration like nothing else. You really do _feel_ the effects
as well as hear them.
You do have to be careful though not to go too bass heavy. How much is too
much is of course a matter of personal preference - I enjoy a bit of rumble
and shake, especially with the FX blockbusters.
And when I do get a sub, I will be making sure that it employs downward
firing drivers to make the most of that huge concrete slab underneath it.
:)
On that subject, I was looking today at a Mission with twin drivers and
apparently left and right line inputs, presumably one for each driver.
What's the best way to connect that to an amp with only 1 line out for LFE ?
--
The Jazz Singer
Purveyor of fine Movie and DVD Reviews since 1999
http://www.jazzsinger.co.uk
--
Neil
Neil Cameron
Legal Technology Consultant +44 973 165130 Fax: +44 870 1640199
ncam...@neilcameron.co.uk
http://www.neilcameron.co.uk
The Jazz Singer <jazzs...@jazzsinger.co.uk> wrote in message
news:37c41...@newsread3.dircon.co.uk...
If you want anything like *full* soundproofing, it'll cost you a small
fortune. Realistically, if you aim to cut out a *lot* of extraneous noise,
you'll be doing okay.
> > what should I look for in the house I buy? For example, a garage
> > attached to the house?
Garages tend to make good HT conversion material, but you don't have to
limit yourself to them. My cinema room started life as a dining room.
> > If so, what size? Or would a room in the house be better?
Depends entirely on the house. If you find a room that's rectangular and
about the right size, great.
> > Or a cellar,
Could be good - by definition you'll get hard walls and floor, but how many
houses have cellars nowadays?
> > loft conversion
Less than ideal shape. An arched roof will greatly limit your potential
screen width, as well as potentially causing odd sound reflection problems.
> > or detached garage?
If the shape's right, why not? The main downside would be getting wet on the
way in if it's raining.
> > Again, I must stress that full soundproofing is required so that even
very
> > loud volumes would not be audible outside the chosen location.
In practice, fully soundproofing a 115 to 120dB source is very expensive to
implement.
Stuart Wright wrote in message...
> As a starting point, if you are projecting, then a nice size image is 8
feet
> wide. This means your cinema room needs to be at least 10 feet wide (room
> for speakers either side of screen)
Not necessarily. With an acoustically transparent screen, you can (almost
literally) go wall to wall.
> Also consider that a concrete floor is considered best as far as I know.
It causes the fewest potential problems.
--
Richard Hopkins,
(replace .nospam with .com in reply address)
Cardiff, Wales, United Kingdom
Send all my spam to: duise...@reichstag.de
>Stuart Wright <st...@dial.pipex.com.nospam>
>
>> Also consider that a concrete floor is considered best as far as I know.
>
>Absolutely. Even in my compromise living room setup with no sub woofer
>(yet) the suspended concrete acts like a bass amplifier - it truly rumbles and conducts vibration like nothing else. You really do _feel_ the effects as well as hear them.<
Then you should try a wooden floor..concrete doesn't pass the vibrations
as much as a wooden transducer which is why instruments are made from
wood not concrete...wood vibrates.
And if you want tactile bass sensation get a Clark Synthesis Tactile
Transducer (www.clarksyn.com). You wont regret it.
I don't care what subwoofer (even a JBL pro 4546) you have, this unit is
what you need for the sensation of bass. Screw it to a wood floor/couch
get your butt kicked and enjoy your sub performance even more.
I have posted elsewhere here today the correct ratios for room acoustics
in a dedicated room (see How Big thread).
Max Christoffersen
Max Christoffersen
Way off topic....
... but what exactly is the difference between a Senior Software Developer
and an ordinary Software Developer?
Enlighten me...
Leon.
On the floor in a cabinet or table is fine as long as it can't move.
On the ceiling is more usual. In which case you must realise that CRT's can't
project down at too great an angle. This means that rooms with high ceilings
are bad news unless you are going to use a projector lift(not recommended) or
you like the idea of a large crt projector hanging off a pole, like down the
pub! Otherwise you are going to get a very sore neck looking up at the screen.
Also make sure the room can be made dark. Darker than dark. The fewer windows
the better. You might actually want to find a local CEDIA member who can visit
your proposed purchase and give a considered opinion. For the call out fee
youwil probably be charged it may save a packet later!
Gordon
StereoStereo: Intelligent Solutions for Intelligent Homes
260 Saint Vincent St
Glasgow 0141 248 4079
10-6.00pm Closed Tuesday and Sunday
Obviously a Senior Software Developer is older than a Software Developer.
>
> Depends entirely on the house. If you find a room that's rectangular and
> about the right size, great.
May be everybody comes at the home cinema room from the wrong
direction....
As new multiplexes go up and town based older cinemas close -
maybe a better approach would be to buy a cinema and look at
the easiest way to adapt part of it to live in? ;)
>
>
>
--
Paul Dundas
>
> Also make sure the room can be made dark. Darker than dark. The fewer windows
> the better. You might actually want to find a local CEDIA member who can visit
> your proposed purchase and give a considered opinion. For the call out fee
> youwil probably be charged it may save a packet later!
If you're building a room from scratch (e.g. converting a
garage or something) which is windowless its well worth
trying to include some sort of air conditioning system
in the budget too.
It may not sound important in January but you may be glad
of it come June. The combination of no ventilation and all
those hot amplifiers and projectors.... ;(
>
> Gordon
> StereoStereo: Intelligent Solutions for Intelligent Homes
> 260 Saint Vincent St
> Glasgow 0141 248 4079
> 10-6.00pm Closed Tuesday and Sunday
>
> http://members.aol.com/stere0/index.html
>
--
Paul Dundas
Gawd, don't start me off. There's one that'd be ideal for that purpose on
t'other side of town...
;-> but I'm only 24!
A senior is usually someone who also takes the lead in areas like
architecture, and can also pickup other people's code instantly -
basically it is a software developer who is (more skilled isn't really
the phrase as software isnt a skill, it should be instinctive) better
than others.
Dave L.
Formerly Senior Software Engineer at STNC Ltd
Now Software Design Engineer, Microsoft
(we were bought a month ago)
Leon Rees <leon...@globalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:7q1jkj$lrn$1...@gxsn.com...
>
> The Tobbster <TSh...@spch.com> wrote in message
> news:AXSw3.11$5s2....@news.enterprise.net...
> <Snip>
> > Toby Sharp, B.Sc. (Hons), G.I.M.A.
> > Senior Software Developer
> > Serif Europe Ltd
> >
> > mailto:tsh...@vizacom.com
>
snip
> > > loft conversion
>
> Less than ideal shape. An arched roof will greatly limit
your potential
> screen width, as well as potentially causing odd sound
reflection problems.
>
snip
Wouldn't the arched roof be acoustically useful in avoiding
standing waves?
--
Jamesy :-)
ja...@SORRYSPAMSOFFacdltd.co.uk
You know...for kids!
--
Neil
Neil Cameron
Legal Technology Consultant +44 973 165130 Fax: +44 870 1640199
ncam...@neilcameron.co.uk
http://www.neilcameron.co.uk
I've never found soundproofing to be necessary.
Mind you, my house does have 3-foot thick stone walls, and is about 30m
from the nearest neighbours.
--
Russell Whitworth
- If you need my email address, you'll have to visit my website (sorry) -
- Home ==> http://www.anchorag.demon.co.uk/ -
- Work ==> http://www.questus.co.uk/ -
Depends how its done! My loft conversion resulted in a 5m x 4m square
room, with vertical walls and a full-height ceiling throughout that
area. Mind you, the conversion was not trivial, requiring the roof to
be removed and rebuilt as a "mansard" roof. But it was well worth it
(pictures on my website, in case anyone is interested). It would
actually be ideal for home cinema -- but in fact I use it as an office,
and the home cinema gear is in the living room below.
Et voila.