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Subwoofer Yamaha YST-SW160

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Johan Stensson

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Dec 13, 2000, 7:16:38 AM12/13/00
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I'm looking for a sub in the price range of max $300. My room is pretty
small, about 4x3 meters (13'x10'). The size of the sub is pretty important
too. I saw that Yamaha's YST-SW160 has a preferable size (tower model) so
that it can be placed either horizontally (for example, under my bed) or
vertically (behind my chair). The price is good, I can get it for about
$280. It's front firing and has two 8" elements and the effect is 150 Watts.

What do you think of this model? I've read that it can't really handle the
really low frequencies, but is there any other sub in this price range that
does it better? The highest frequency that it can handle without getting too
loose seems to be about 70-80 Hz. Again, is this acceptable?

Thank you for your opinions.

/Johan


ak47

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Dec 13, 2000, 1:13:08 PM12/13/00
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I have the YST-SW90, I'm very pleased with it, my room is about the same
size as yours....& the SW90 gives enough power....

ak47

Johan Stensson <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message
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M

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Dec 13, 2000, 2:44:38 PM12/13/00
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Johan Stensson <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message
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I had a home trial of one of the Yamaha subs and can confirm that they don't
have low bass (-10db at 20hz Yamaha specs!). Also without even pushing it I
managed to get it to make some very unpleasant farty vibrating noises. I
eventually bought a Paradigm PS1000 as I couldn't afford a REL.


--
Mat.

"There's only one way. By Alpha Ralpha Boulevard"


Johan Stensson

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Dec 13, 2000, 4:59:43 PM12/13/00
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> I had a home trial of one of the Yamaha subs and can confirm that they
don't
> have low bass (-10db at 20hz Yamaha specs!). Also without even pushing it
I
> managed to get it to make some very unpleasant farty vibrating noises. I
> eventually bought a Paradigm PS1000 as I couldn't afford a REL.
>


What does "-10db at 20hz " actually mean?


Johan


M

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Dec 13, 2000, 6:26:29 PM12/13/00
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Johan Stensson <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message
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You had to ask ;-)
O.K. I'll try and get this right.
db=decibel (the measurement of sound energy or the 'loudness' of a sound)
hz=hertz (the frequency or 'note' of the sound)
20hz is around the lowest sound a good human ear can hear (its more of
feeling really)
A change of 3db to a sound is generally perceived as a reduction in the
loudness of that sound by 1/2. A sound -3db is half as loud -3db of that
sound is half as loud again.
-10db is about 12% as loud as the average loudness of the sub as a whole.
i.e. quiet.
Basically Yamaha have picked the figures they use as 20hz is the lowest
sound you may hear (seems impressive). But the -10db figure means that you
won't hear anything at 20hz because it is too quiet.
My experience was that the Yamaha had most of its output at the frequencies
that cause boom in a room. That isn't really a problem if you like it as it
sounds impressive but the low bass is what gives the sub feeling or pressure
in the room.
As a very general guide look for -3db at about 30hz.

If anyone finds any errors in the above please correct them :-)

I haven't stripped the crossposting as I don't know the group charters.

Johan Stensson

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Dec 14, 2000, 6:22:28 AM12/14/00
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> As a very general guide look for -3db at about 30hz.
>

I understand that what decides how deep the sub will go is the size of the
element. For example, the specs on Paradigm's PDR-8 is 39-100 Hz (+/-3 dB).
The Yamaha, which is 20 (-10 dB) -140 Hz, would go just about as deep, or
deeper? The Yamaha has two 8" element instead of one, and isn't that equal
to one 10" element in size?


/Johan


Dennisgg

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Dec 14, 2000, 6:51:11 AM12/14/00
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I haven't listened to it but have heard good things about the Sony SA-WM40
sub that Sears sells for about $200. From the specs that someone else
posted about the Yamaha, the Sony sounds like it goes lower with more
output. It is a 12" driver sub.

Dennis

"Johan Stensson" <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message

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Roman

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Dec 14, 2000, 8:23:31 AM12/14/00
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>The Yamaha has two 8" element instead of one, and isn't that equal
to one 10" element in size?

From theory, the twins speakers, which work close which other, equal the
same one of equal area size i.e. two of 8'' equal
one of ~11''. If take into accout the deviation from theory to real life,
two of 8'' equal 10'' size. You can easy calculate how far it is
from magic 18''.

And I make gross mistake too, a 1'=11.8'', sorry silly me, I work with SI,
in cm.


Roman


M

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Dec 14, 2000, 2:17:03 PM12/14/00
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Johan Stensson <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message
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Subs can use bigger drive units to go louder not necessarily deeper the same
with using multiple drive units.

M

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Dec 14, 2000, 2:36:05 PM12/14/00
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John Rainer <jra...@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote in message
news:s45i3tkmngm8ugakl...@4ax.com...

> On Wed, 13 Dec 2000 23:26:29 -0000, "M"
> <ne...@no-spam.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> >A change of 3db to a sound is generally perceived as a reduction in the
> >loudness of that sound by 1/2. A sound -3db is half as loud -3db of that
> >sound is half as loud again.
>
> Pedant mode on:
>
> A 3db loss is a measured loss of half the original sound level
> and vice versa for gain. Put two noise sources together each
> outputting, say, 60dB measured at a fixed distance and the
> combined volume of the two measures at 63dB. However, the human
> ear does not perceive this as twice the volume - it takes a
> 10db change for the increase or reduction to be _perceived_ by
> someone as double or half the original sound level. As it is a
> logarithmic scale, that is a substantial change (3dB increase =
> twice the original, 6=4 times, 9=8 times, 10=well, you work it
> out).
>
> It gets more complicated as the ear's frequency response is not
> linear, especially at low frequencies where it drops off very
> rapidly from 100 to 20hz. An A weighted scale (dBA) provides
> some compensation for how sound is actually perceived by a
> listener by adding suitable weighting to each frequency. A 10dB
> drop at 20hz is much more substantial when measured as dBA. I
> would be more interested in the frequency at which there is a
> 3dB, or even dBA drop off - it will be rather higher up the
> scale than 20hz but doesn't sound as impressive in the ads. The
> measurement implies there is at least some sound from the unit
> at 20hz while actually meaning that a listener will hear bog
> all.
>
> The problem for cheap subs is that deep bass tends to get both
> heard and felt through the body or other objects - feeling
> sound through induction of vibration in something, as well as
> hearing the sound through your ears. A cheaper sub will still
> induce this kind of resonance but to a far lesser extent. As a
> result, the sound gives some of the bass 'feel' but lacks the
> full rattling window and gut-wobbling effect of a more expensive
> unit - users tend to turn up the sub volume to try and
> compensate but all that happens is that it booms instead. Cheap
> subs can actually sound pretty good, depending on how linear the
> frequency response of their output (amongst other things) is in
> the frequencies that they are able to cope with - just don't
> turn up the volume too high and don't expect really deep bass.
>
> Pedant mode off.
>
> Personally, I'm off in the near future to build the kit sub
> produced by IPL Acoustics.
>

I knew there must have been something I got wrong ;-)

I'd seen the IPL sub too but wasn't sure whether to take the risk and buy
without having heard it.

Nigel Ince

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Dec 14, 2000, 3:22:55 PM12/14/00
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We measure our sounders (fire alarm) at 1m then its easy to work out the
loss by every doubling of that distance loses the said amount !!!!

1+1 = 2 2+2= 4 etc

"John Rainer" <jra...@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote in message
news:s45i3tkmngm8ugakl...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 13 Dec 2000 23:26:29 -0000, "M"
> <ne...@no-spam.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>
>

> >A change of 3db to a sound is generally perceived as a reduction in the
> >loudness of that sound by 1/2. A sound -3db is half as loud -3db of that
> >sound is half as loud again.
>

> John Rainer
>
>
>
>


Johan Stensson

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Dec 14, 2000, 4:29:14 PM12/14/00
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What I have now is Dali 606 as front speakers, 202 as rear and SC-7 as
center. The 606 has three 6.5" elements for low frequencies and it's freq
response is 39Hz-25kHz (+/-3 dB). Would I benefit greatly from a sub with
two 8" elements and 150W amp (20 (-10dB) - 140 Hz) , or would the difference
not be that great at all?

Johan

M <ne...@no-spam.freeserve.co.uk> skrev i
diskussionsgruppsmeddelandet:91b6bv$j9g$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk...

M

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Dec 14, 2000, 6:19:22 PM12/14/00
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Johan Stensson <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message
news:91bdva$si9$1...@news.lth.se...

> What I have now is Dali 606 as front speakers, 202 as rear and SC-7 as
> center. The 606 has three 6.5" elements for low frequencies and it's freq
> response is 39Hz-25kHz (+/-3 dB). Would I benefit greatly from a sub with
> two 8" elements and 150W amp (20 (-10dB) - 140 Hz) , or would the
difference
> not be that great at all?
>
>

In my opinion the Yamaha would be a waste of money. A sub does make a
difference but with a system like yours not that much and the Yamaha would
be outclassed by all the other speakers. I think I know what you after but
it doesn't come cheap. I wanted the same thing and realised that I couldn't
afford it. If you're short of cash look for a second-hand sub from makes
like M&K, REL, etc

Danny Pospolita

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Dec 14, 2000, 8:18:31 PM12/14/00
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I bought a Mirage sub. BPS150i. Very happy with it. It is a very good sub
for audio or home theatre.
I would suggest that if you can't afford a powered sub in that catagory,
save your cash until you can.
The payoff will be all the sweeter. I also like the Pardigm subs as well.
The sub is a area that you can't really buy the cheapest you see.
My room is 16'x26' and the Mirage sub easily fills the room with low bass.
Not boomy bass, but tight floor shaking bass!
What brand are you looking at?
Post the make and model before you purchase and i'm sure you will get
responses from people who either have that sub or have looked at it.
Dan


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Brian Mitchell

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Dec 13, 2000, 4:33:35 PM12/13/00
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Here is a link for the lowest price on the Yamaha YST-SW160 Sub (Currently
$229):
http://ecoustics.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=261095

or

Here is a link to all the subs in your price range (< $300):
http://ecoustics.pricegrabber.com/search_attrib.php?page_id=133&vendors%5B%5
D=0&lo_p=&hi_p=300
(note: link must be one line, no spaces)


Skid

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Dec 15, 2000, 9:55:29 AM12/15/00
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I know you were trying to help, but cross-posting binaries to three
non-binary groups is a no-no. Next time just include a link so interested
parties can see tham and the rest of us don't have to download 200K worth of
jpegs. Thanks.

"Jo Slevin" <Jo...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:91bm2n$4a8$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com...
> I'm unable to find any independent reviews of the particular sub woofer
> that seems to have caught your interest.
> I went to Yamaha's North American site and downloaded their
> spec sheet.............
> Dispite what view/opinion any of us may have, I suspect you have
> already decided,
> The price you have been quoted at first seems reasonable for an
> active design, But I noticed whilst browsing the dealer Ad's in
> the Brit HiFi Mag's that this particular sub is also discounted
> here in UK, This maybe indicative of a view that comparatively
> it may only be competative in the active subwoofer market when
> the price is heavily discounted...........
> Without independent subjective/objective reviews you are diving
> into unknown waters, ........................


>
>
> "Johan Stensson" <jste...@dvdangle.com> wrote in message

> news:917p73$k2$1...@news.lth.se...

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