Tips for painting the outside of a House
Michael Dunphy
Well, as they say, love comes at a cost. I've been rope'ed in to
painting the girlfriend's house. This is something I've never done,
but it'll be a challenge!!! Anyhow, the background to this project is:
Background:
===========
It's a mid-terrace 2 storey house, with a pebble-dash finish. It looks
like the walls haven't been painted for a long time, so I've had all
the walls power washed clean and I'm starting to scrap off the loose
peeled paint (from window ledges, the face-a (sp?) and the plinth)
So here my questions that I hope you diy'ers can help me on:
1) I assume I've to paint from the top down and leave the small areas
(windows, face-a) to last. I've going to paint the house twice to give
it a good job.
2) Any other do's and don't or tips?
3) The scrapping is slow, is there any other way? and do I need to
take off all the existing paint (i.e it's only in place that the paint
is flaky on the plinth)
4) As a noivce, I assume I should keep clear of using a spray and use
brushes instead? Will this mean I'll use more paint. If so, then the
fact that I am going to do 2 coats, perhaps the first could be watered
down?
5) Should I mix the paint from the various tins to blend in any
variations or is this an overkill?
6) Whats the best way to protect the windows/floor?
7) How much should I charge for this? :-)
Thanks for any help/advice
regards
Mick
Li460point3
>1) I assume I've to paint from the top down and leave the small areas
>(windows, face-a) to last. I've going to paint the house twice to give
>it a good job.
What the d- is face-a? Paint reveals and odds and ends first, then
flat expanses, then sills and woodwork.
>2) Any other do's and don't or tips?
Don't use "cheap" paint.
>3) The scrapping is slow, is there any other way?
Put some lead in your gloves?
Use a gas torch and sharp scraper.
>and do I need to take off all the existing paint (i.e it's only in place that the
>paintis flaky on the plinth)
No, only where it isn't sound (what is the "plinth"?).
>4) As a noivce, I assume I should keep clear of using a spray and use
>brushes instead?
I should - you might find a suitable roller at a decorator's merchant.
>Will this mean I'll use more paint. If so, then the fact that I am going to do
>2 coats, perhaps the first could be watered down?
Most likely. Re. thinning, see instructions supplied with the paint.
> 5) Should I mix the paint from the various tins to blend in any
> variations or is this an overkill?
Try to use paint from the same tin, or the same mixed paint, on large
flat areas. Where there is a natural change (e.g. at a corner) slight
colour variations won't matter.
>6) Whats the best way to protect the windows/floor?
Mask the windows if you need to with cloth, plastic, or paper/card.
I thought you were painting the outside walls - ? Cover floorboards/carpets
with twill cloth dustsheets (washed are best, new ones take a litthle
wearing in).
>7) How much should I charge for this?
Whatever you feel you can get away with.....
----
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Tim Hardisty
<Li460...@EmergencyManagement.Net> wrote:
>Michael Dunphy wrote:
>>1) I assume I've to paint from the top down and leave the small areas
>>(windows, face-a) to last.
>
>What the d- is face-a?
I think he means facia :-)
Tim Hardisty.
Remove HAT before replying
Bignell Surgical Instruments Ltd
"Michael Dunphy" <madu...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:cbd64db9.01061...@posting.google.com...
> Hi there,
>
> Well, as they say, love comes at a cost. I've been rope'ed in to
> painting the girlfriend's house. This is something I've never done,
> but it'll be a challenge!!! Anyhow, the background to this project is:
>
> Background:
> ===========
> It's a mid-terrace 2 storey house, with a pebble-dash finish. It looks
> like the walls haven't been painted for a long time, so I've had all
> the walls power washed clean and I'm starting to scrap off the loose
> peeled paint (from window ledges, the face-a (sp?) and the plinth)
For future reference, the word is facia.
>
> So here my questions that I hope you diy'ers can help me on:
>
> 1) I assume I've to paint from the top down and leave the small areas
> (windows, face-a) to last. I've going to paint the house twice to give
> it a good job.
Unless you are using a non-drip paint, I suggest doing the gutters and facia
boards first. For the wall, using a good paint, it is not really necessary
to work from the top down and working from the bottom up may be easier.
>
> 2) Any other do's and don't or tips?
Hire a scafold tower to work from. At some point, a ladder will need to lean
against something you have painted.
Don't be tempted to buy cheap paint. I strongly recommend Dulux.
Wear a hat to keep paint out of your hair, particularly if you use paint
rollers.
Wear protective glasses (not goggles, which tend to mist up) - you will be
surprised how many paint splatters they will pick up.
> 3) The scrapping is slow, is there any other way?
I would use a very large gas blowlamp and a scraper for removing oil based
paints, but I have been using blowlamps for decades.
You can buy a paint removing wheel to use in a power drill at the DIY sheds.
The best one looks like a brown, circular loofa. Used with care, you can do
everything from roughening the surface of existing paint, to cleaning up
weathered wood. For removing flaking masonry paint, I favour a hand-held
wire brush.
> and do I need to
> take off all the existing paint (i.e it's only in place that the paint
> is flaky on the plinth)
There is no reason to remove sound paint.
> 4) As a noivce, I assume I should keep clear of using a spray and use
> brushes instead?
For the wall, use a roller and a long handle. Get a 12" roller if you can,
but certainly the widest available. As the walls are pebble dashed, choose
one suitable for rough surfaces - that should be marked on the roller. For
windows and other detail work, I prefer a brush, but some people like paint
pads.
> Will this mean I'll use more paint.
Sprays normally waste more paint than other methods.
> If so, then the
> fact that I am going to do 2 coats, perhaps the first could be watered
> down?
Read the manufacturer's instructions on the can. Normally, you would not
water the first coat down unless you were painting onto a porous surface.
> 5) Should I mix the paint from the various tins to blend in any
> variations or is this an overkill?
It is, theoretically, best practice, but I don't know any amateur who goes
to that trouble. For one thing, you need a container large enough to accept
all the paint you will use for one coat.
> 6) Whats the best way to protect the windows/floor?
Cover the windows with old newspapers, secured with masking tape. If you use
the long-life tape, you can also use that to protect the glass when painting
the window frames. It does not do much for the view from insdie though.
To protect the ground / floor / foliage I use the throw-away plastic dust
sheets you can buy in the DIY sheds.
Colin Bignell
Max Bone
Dunphy <madu...@bigfoot.com> writes
>
>Well, as they say, love comes at a cost. I've been rope'ed in to
>painting the girlfriend's house. This is something I've never done,
>but it'll be a challenge!!! Anyhow, the background to this project is:
You must remove all loose and flaking material, I don't advise using a
wire brush as it's too destructive, and metal left on the surface can
lead to rust marks when overcoated - particularly with water-borne
paints. Scraper, stiff bristle brush and abrasive.
Power washing is certainly a good choice for preparation, my first
choice when preparing masonry surfaces, around the 2000 psi level and
you will have removed all loose, powdery material, and any spores which
could lead to later vegetable growth breaking through the coating film.
On bare (uncoated) masonry you are correct that you will need to thin
the first coat of masonry paint to aid adhesion, follow the
manufacturers recommendation. You may also need to consider stabilising
the previous decoration if it is underbound/powdery (try wiping you hand
across the surface).
Apply using a brush and roller - preferably a long pile woven for
masonry - size of roller depends on what you are happy with 9", 10" or
12" although the 12" is generally preferred... it's faster and supported
at both ends of the roller so the frame cannot flex, the 10" prodec's
are quite good with a thicker frame.
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RODDF/
Use a large paint scuttle (rather than a tray - unless a deep tray) and
if you are considering a colour other than magnolia/white I would
strongly advise boxing the can's together - tiny colour differences can
be dramatic on large surfaces. For really large job's you can box the
paint together in a black plastic bin. Consider the type of access
equipment you intend to use and extension pole?
Use masking tape/newspaper, to protect critical surfaces, and a dust
sheet on the floor, cotton twill won't blow away outside, is absorbent
and always comes in useful for other jobs... even temporary curtains. :)
As for masonry paints, smooth has better coverage than fine textured,
and is less prone to retain dirt. As someone stated earlier use a good
masonry paint, the cheaper retail products are under-bound and don't
have good opacity.
For properly prepared windows, soffits and facias I would consider using
a low-maintenance coating (5+ years between decorations)... probably an
acrylic... something like Sadolin Superdec (available in gloss and
satin) which you won't be disappointed in. Don't use interior/exterior
alkyd gloss/undercoat which will only give you 2-3 years between
decorations. Make sure you take off all sharp edges... coatings won't
achieve a high enough film build over these... and they tend to be the
first place a coating begins to loose adhesion along. For filling
exterior timber use a two part filler.
For exterior doors/door frames consider a solvent-borne exterior
coating, these are harder and resist abrasion better than the water-
borne acrylic's talked about in the last paragraph.
I've missed loads out, as I could spend all day talking about coatings
and coating systems...
Regards
--
Max Bone Decorating Direct Ltd
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/
hundreds of products - secure online ordering - delivered to your door
Dave Liquorice
> 5) Should I mix the paint from the various tins to blend in any
> variations or is this an overkill?
If all the tins are from the same batch I wouldn't worry. If not as
you get halfway down one tin add a bit from a new one a mix it in. The
colour will then fade from one to the other. Far less noticable than a
patch boundary. TBH though I think modern colour matching between
batches in paint production is pretty good.
> 7) How much should I charge for this? :-)
After painting your girlfriends house you'll be too tired for any
"payment". B-)
--
Cheers new...@howhill.com
Dave. Remove "spam" for valid email.
Max Bone
>On 13 Jun 2001 04:06:24 -0700, Michael Dunphy wrote:
>
>> 5) Should I mix the paint from the various tins to blend in any
>> variations or is this an overkill?
>
>If all the tins are from the same batch I wouldn't worry.
It's worth bearing in mind that apart from white/mag, most colours are
produced from bases on tinting machines... high speed bulk ones at the
distribution centres, and smaller versions at local distributors. The
same batch number on tins tinted to order means the that the tinting
bases were probably from the same mix, however... fill quantity,
differences between tinting machines, and poorly mixed paint will all
contribute to shading problems. For very large surface areas, boxing
paint together is a much safer option...
Andy Woodward
>rollers.
The Magic Trick with rollers - which I have never seen advocated is to simply
not seat the roller sleeve fully on hte frame. Most drips occur where teh
end of the roller-pile touches the frame as teh roller rolls. The paint wipes
of on the frame and drips like hell. So you dont mount the sleeve fully home -
make sure *none* of it touches the frame.
I hated rollers before I foundthis little trick, now I love them - much
quicker and easier to get a good coat and no drips now.
>You can buy a paint removing wheel to use in a power drill at the DIY sheds.
>The best one looks like a brown, circular loofa. Used with care, you can do
>everything from roughening the surface of existing paint, to cleaning up
>weathered wood. For removing flaking masonry paint, I favour a hand-held
>wire brush.
The mechanical ones tend to undercut the rendering from under holes in the
paint.
>For the wall, use a roller and a long handle. Get a 12" roller if you can,
>but certainly the widest available.
DONT get a floor roller - with a frame which holds hte roller t both ends -
cos this will drip for teh above reasons - and since the frame is on both
sides of teh sleeve, thre's sod all you can do to stop it except give your
roller sleeve a skinhead haircut at teh ends.
Michael Dunphy
Andy,
(total noivce here), So what type of roller/frame are you suggesting?
I know you can get the frame that supports both sides, is that the
type I shouldn't get? I've done painting for the interior and have a
roller frame (and extension)that the roller slides on from one side.
Would this suffice? I get the impression that it may not be strong
enough. So can one get something similar, but with a stronger frame.
I'd like the idea of using a roller rather than a brush, but will it
work with the pebble dash exterior? Also I think I'll go for the
smooth masonary paint for the better coverage. People have mentioned
dulux, but is sandtex just as good? They seem to have a better variety
of colour. I'm off to their respective websites, as the missus
initially wanted a grey, but last nite was starting to consider a
shade of green. Patience is a great virtue :-)
Thank for all the advice
Mick
Andy Woodward
I watched the painter painting the landlord's house and got one like him - a
normal one-sided 9" roller frame with a screw thread to fit the standard
extension poles.
>I know you can get the frame that supports both sides, is that the
>type I shouldn't get? I've done painting for the interior and have a
That's the type I tried on the garage - it'd be OK if you trim hte roller
sleeve so it doesnt touch the frame at teh edges, but then you've narrowed it
from a 12" to pretty close to a 9" anyway...... The advantage of teh 9" one is
that you can use it as a normal roller without the extension pole. Its also a
damned sight easier to clean off excess paint before each use by rolling it
along the side of teh bucket. You can also get one sided rollers closer to
edges, and into corners - where two sided ones wont fit cos of teh frame. You
can also use the end of teh roller to dob extra paint into any deep crevices
in hte render where the roller doesnt leave paint.
>roller frame (and extension)that the roller slides on from one side.
>Would this suffice?
That sounds like what I mean - sounds like you've already got one that fits
an extension - most that are sold in DIY-marts dont.
>I get the impression that it may not be strong
>enough. So can one get something similar, but with a stronger frame.
The one I got from a professional decorator's centre was more beefy - the
problem is that it takes 1 3/4inch rollers instead of the 1 1/2inch ones sold
in hte DIY-marts. Not that much of a problem. Also you dont need to use lots
of force on a roller.
>I'd like the idea of using a roller rather than a brush, but will it
>work with the pebble dash exterior?
A very deep pile roller should. Get a proper sheepskin one, not a synthetic
copy. They hold more paint and are longer lasting. And since they can be
easily cleaned of water paints, the extra cost is worth it.
Nightjar
> (total noivce here), So what type of roller/frame are you suggesting?
> I know you can get the frame that supports both sides, is that the
> type I shouldn't get?
When you are painting the walls and floor of a few factories, as I do every
so often, you need the biggest roller you can get and the 12" ones normally
grip from both sides. Despite Andy's views, after I run the roller up and
down the corrugated bit of the tray a couple of times to take off the
excess, I have never had problems with dripping from a roller. However,
rollers, particularly the long haired ones you need for rough surfaces, do
tend to splatter paint about, hence the need for a hat and glasses.
> I'd like the idea of using a roller rather than a brush, but will it
> work with the pebble dash exterior?
You will find it easier than a brush on such a rough surface but, as Andy
points out, you do need to use genuine sheepskin.
> Also I think I'll go for the
> smooth masonary paint for the better coverage. People have mentioned
> dulux, but is sandtex just as good? They seem to have a better variety
> of colour.
Sandtex is a good alternative for masonry paint.
Colin Bignell