Telescoping ladders?

[T i m]

Hi all,

I have been given some s/h telescoping ladders and they seems like
some sections are stuck somehow. You *can* release each section and
most sections will slide open and closed reasonably well but some are
very stiff / stuck.

I think they might be an earlier version of these (but look to be the
same mechanical design):

http://prodec.uk.com/products/access/telescopic-ladders/

I can't see any obvious signs of damage or distortion, except some
sections seem to have a light vertical score down the outside as if
some screw or pin might have been set or moved too far in on the
collars?

There is also what looks like be the remains of some white paint on
the back of a couple of sections and I'm sure that wouldn't 'help'?

I was wondering if anyone had seen similar 'sticking' and knows if you
can take such things apart to clean / lubricate / service etc?

My interest is mainly for that, for the s&g's. If they do respond well
and appear 100% I might keep them for my own low level use (excuse the
pun) but I didn't want to scrap them if there was a chance they could
be fixed (properly).

Cheers, T i m

[newshound]

Possible cause is corrosion products and/or scoring in small clearances.
I would start with WD40 or any similar penetrating oil spray, and much
jiggling.

Not sure if they are dismantlable, but I would start by taking the
rubber foot off the big end, and see what is visible. You might find
that each section has a collar on it which stops it being pulled out of
the next size up.

[T i m]

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 11:45:24 +0000, newshound wrote:

> On 3/17/2016 8:48 PM, T i m wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have been given some s/h telescoping ladders and they seems like some
>> sections are stuck somehow. You *can* release each section and most
>> sections will slide open and closed reasonably well but some are very
>> stiff / stuck.
>>
>> I think they might be an earlier version of these (but look to be the
>> same mechanical design):
>>
>> http://prodec.uk.com/products/access/telescopic-ladders/
>>
>> I can't see any obvious signs of damage or distortion, except some
>> sections seem to have a light vertical score down the outside as if
>> some screw or pin might have been set or moved too far in on the
>> collars?
>>
>> There is also what looks like be the remains of some white paint on the
>> back of a couple of sections and I'm sure that wouldn't 'help'?
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone had seen similar 'sticking' and knows if you
>> can take such things apart to clean / lubricate / service etc?
>>
>> My interest is mainly for that, for the s&g's. If they do respond well
>> and appear 100% I might keep them for my own low level use (excuse the
>> pun) but I didn't want to scrap them if there was a chance they could
>> be fixed (properly).
>>
>> Cheers, T i m
>>
> Possible cause is corrosion products and/or scoring in small clearances.

Yes, it did seem quite 'precise' for something that might see some 'rough
service'.

> I would start with WD40 or any similar penetrating oil spray, and much
> jiggling.

I was just concerned that because of the plastic components that I didn't
apply anything that could make matters worse. Like using oil on a lock
etc.

>
> Not sure if they are dismantlable, but I would start by taking the
> rubber foot off the big end, and see what is visible.

Good idea.

> You might find
> that each section has a collar on it which stops it being pulled out of
> the next size up.

That makes sense. I'll give it a look.

Cheers, T i m

[Capitol]

I had good results with the Screwfix no nonsense penetrating
fluid last week, when I used it to free up a kitchen extractor fan which
had a seized motor shaft from crap in the bearing. Got away without
dismantling the whole assembly and the fan runs like new now.

[T i m]

'Crap in the bearing' and from the kitchen, not toilet extractor fan you
say? <weg>

> Got away without
> dismantling the whole assembly and the fan runs like new now.

I might try that (or a light oil at least) on the wall fan in our kitchen
as that seems slow to spin-up, for probably the same reason. That said, I
(fairly) regularly take it down, to bits and wash all the plastics and
grills in the sink but forget to lighten the lube in the bearings (that
are probably being lubed with airborne cooking oil that becomes a heavy
grease).

Cheers, T i m

[newshound]

On 3/18/2016 3:52 PM, T i m wrote:
> On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 11:45:24 +0000, newshound wrote:
>
>> On 3/17/2016 8:48 PM, T i m wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>

>

>> I would start with WD40 or any similar penetrating oil spray, and much
>> jiggling.
>
> I was just concerned that because of the plastic components that I didn't
> apply anything that could make matters worse. Like using oil on a lock
> etc.

I think people worry over-much about using oil on plastic or even
rubber. None of the common plastics are much affected by mineral oil
(most are very resistant).

With rubber, it's a bit more complicated. Nitrile (the most common
O-ring material) is resistant to oil. Other common rubbers will absorb
mineral oil causing them to soften and swell. But it's reversible, up to
a point. Certainly a spray of WD40 won't normally cause much trouble. If
you need to be on the safe side, the thing to use is the silicone spray
or liquid oil used for assembling plastic pipe fittings and gutters,
this is also good for cleaning and lubricating plastic curtain rail.
Toolstation do a cheap aerosol spray. Most spray furniture polishes are
almost as effective and I would expect them to be safe too.

[T i m]

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:52:22 +0000, T i m wrote:

> On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 11:45:24 +0000, newshound wrote:

<snip>

>> Not sure if they are dismantlable, but I would start by taking the
>> rubber foot off the big end, and see what is visible.
>

I managed a quick look earlier and all I can see is what looks like a
large split-nylon bush that pretty well fills the bottom tube.

I'd like to think that because these things didn't just grow like that
but were made from individual parts that they couldn't be dismantled,
refurbished and remantled (< I got that word from someone here and like
it) again. ;-)

I think the tubes that make up the main ladder uprights may be anodised
so there probably isn't much that could be done with them, outside
removing any burrs and ensuring they are generally clear of any foreign
[1] objects or other obstructions (like paint).

Then an application of a suitable lubricant but I don't know if that
should be one for metal to metal contact, metal to nylon / plastic or if
it might attract more dust / dirt than being run dry?

There is something on the outside of each collar but I'm not sure what it
is (like a grub screw). I don know they are different sizes (smaller
towards the top) and rusty (so a steel) but they may hold the key.

If it comes to it I guess I could cut off bottom section and see if that
gives up any clues re how it is held together and I can always 3D print
up some new feet / caps for the new 'bottom' tubes.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I have emailed the supplier to see if they can email be a copy of
the instructions to see if that mentions anything about lubrication.

[newshound]

On 3/18/2016 7:31 PM, T i m wrote:
> On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:52:22 +0000, T i m wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 11:45:24 +0000, newshound wrote:
> <snip>
>
>>> Not sure if they are dismantlable, but I would start by taking the
>>> rubber foot off the big end, and see what is visible.
>>
> I managed a quick look earlier and all I can see is what looks like a
> large split-nylon bush that pretty well fills the bottom tube.
>
> I'd like to think that because these things didn't just grow like that
> but were made from individual parts that they couldn't be dismantled,
> refurbished and remantled (< I got that word from someone here and like
> it) again. ;-)

Agreed. Presumably they start with the smallest (top) section and insert
that into the next one down. Then, something like a bottom bearing must
be attached so that it won't pull out again. That could either be
removable (grub screw?) or semi-permanant, like the spring clip in
pushfit plumbing or the clip which holds on buggy wheels, or very
permanent (like swaging the inner tube to a larger diameter). And there
must also be a clever device to hold it extended when you climb it,
either a positive lock (like a bolt) or a self-tightening friction clamp.

>
> I think the tubes that make up the main ladder uprights may be anodised
> so there probably isn't much that could be done with them, outside
> removing any burrs and ensuring they are generally clear of any foreign
> [1] objects or other obstructions (like paint).

Agreed

>
> Then an application of a suitable lubricant but I don't know if that
> should be one for metal to metal contact, metal to nylon / plastic or if
> it might attract more dust / dirt than being run dry?
>
> There is something on the outside of each collar but I'm not sure what it
> is (like a grub screw). I don know they are different sizes (smaller
> towards the top) and rusty (so a steel) but they may hold the key.
>
> If it comes to it I guess I could cut off bottom section and see if that
> gives up any clues re how it is held together and I can always 3D print
> up some new feet / caps for the new 'bottom' tubes.
>
> Cheers, T i m
>
> p.s. I have emailed the supplier to see if they can email be a copy of
> the instructions to see if that mentions anything about lubrication.

I'd bet it isn't user-servicable (Elf and Safety) and the materials will
be chosen not to need lubricating. It doesn't do a lot of sliding, and
the load while sliding is very light, so nylon or any number of other
plastics should be OK against aluminium.
>

[T i m]

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 22:25:28 +0000, newshound
<news...@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

>On 3/18/2016 7:31 PM, T i m wrote:
>> On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:52:22 +0000, T i m wrote:
>>
>>> On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 11:45:24 +0000, newshound wrote:
>> <snip>
>>
>>>> Not sure if they are dismantlable, but I would start by taking the
>>>> rubber foot off the big end, and see what is visible.
>>>
>> I managed a quick look earlier and all I can see is what looks like a
>> large split-nylon bush that pretty well fills the bottom tube.
>>
>> I'd like to think that because these things didn't just grow like that
>> but were made from individual parts that they couldn't be dismantled,
>> refurbished and remantled (< I got that word from someone here and like
>> it) again. ;-)
>
>Agreed. Presumably they start with the smallest (top) section and insert
>that into the next one down. Then, something like a bottom bearing must
>be attached so that it won't pull out again.

That sounds reasonable.

>That could either be
>removable (grub screw?)

I'll have to investigate the holes that look like they could be
grubscrews the next time I get to the ladders (they are round Mums).

> or semi-permanant, like the spring clip in
>pushfit plumbing or the clip which holds on buggy wheels,

I know the type.

> or very
>permanent (like swaging the inner tube to a larger diameter).

Yes, that was my worst fear.

>And there
>must also be a clever device to hold it extended when you climb it,
>either a positive lock (like a bolt) or a self-tightening friction clamp.

It's a pair of spring loaded bolts (/step) by the look / feel of them.
>
<snip>

>I'd bet it isn't user-servicable (Elf and Safety)

That was another thought / fear.

>and the materials will
>be chosen not to need lubricating.

From what little I've seen / used of these ladders they do usually
slide pretty freely and look pretty dry.

> It doesn't do a lot of sliding, and
>the load while sliding is very light, so nylon or any number of other
>plastics should be OK against aluminium.

Agreed.

I think the bolts or pawls are possibly self locking (they engage
further / harder when under load) so in theory, as long as you have
the ladder extended whole steps at a time, it should be pretty
reliable. The only risk with how it is at the moment is ensuring each
step is fully extended so that both the latches engage.

Cheers, T i m

[Rod Speed]

"T i m" <ete...@spaced.me.uk> wrote in message
news:nchjdu$l20$1...@dont-email.me...

I do mine in the dishwasher, beats that otherwise filthy job.

[Bill Wright]

On 17/03/2016 20:48, T i m wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have been given some s/h telescoping ladders

The most important thing is to check that the catches that prevent the
ladder from telescoping when you're on it are working properly.

Bill

[T i m]

Understood Bill. I wouldn't even climb up it myself unless I was as
happy as I could be (with such things) that the latches were latching
properly.

In fact, from the quick play I have had so far I'd say the issue was
more to do with getting the latches unlatched. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[Stuart Noble]

Spawn of the devil as TMH would say.

[T i m]

Whilst I think I would agree in (mechanical) principal, they do have
their virtues (I think, never owned any myself).

If you want to be able to carry some *ladders* around with you , in
the boot of your car or van for the occasional / unplanned use then I
can see them being a real boon. Or even getting about with 'some
ladders' on public transport. Or having to store same in a small shed
or under the stairs possibly, the same goes.

However, I'm pretty sure they wouldn't replace conventional steps,
sectional or multi-purpose ladders for anything in actual use though,
in the same way an adjustable is no replacement for the ring spanner
you actually have with you. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[DJC]

You might find a few pointers here

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1686294.pdf

Use and Care Instructions:
Youngman Telescopic Ladder



--
djc

(▀̿Ĺ̯▀̿ ̿)
No low-hanging fruit, just a lot of small berries up a tall tree.

[T i m]

On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 22:03:37 +0000, DJC <d...@news.invalid> wrote:

<snip>

>You might find a few pointers here
>
>http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1686294.pdf
>
>Use and Care Instructions:
>Youngman Telescopic Ladder

Thanks. ;-)

These bits could be especially pertinent:

"Do
Keep your ladder clean occassionally wipe tubes with a
clean dry cloth. Paint should be cleaned off immediately
as it will impede telescoping action. If stiffness develops
wipe tubes with a clean cloth and apply a small amount of
silicone spray wiping any excess with a clean cloth
Do
Store your ladder indoors to avoid damp conditions which
could make the ladder difficult to operate."

Cheers, T i m