How to cap a radiator valve after removing radiator?

tin...@isbd.co.uk

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Mar 2, 2012, 11:30:46 AM3/2/12

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I have removed a radiator in a room that's changing use (and there
will be other things attached to the wall where the radiator was).

I'm happy enough that the lock-shield valve will be watertight and
tamper proof but I'm not at all convinced about the thermostatic valve
at the other end - in fact I've knocked it a couple of times and
provoked a squirt of water.

Is there anything designed to cap the end or, alternatively, what's the
best way to bodge it? It had a fairly large diameter union onto a
short stub which in turn was screwed into the radiator. Even if I
knew what size the nut is I'm not sure what one would need to make a
watertight cap.

--
Chris Green

Dave Liquorice

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Mar 2, 2012, 12:12:46 PM3/2/12

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On Fri, 2 Mar 2012 16:30:46 +0000, tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:

> I'm not at all convinced about the thermostatic valve at the other end -
> in fact I've knocked it a couple of times and provoked a squirt of
> water.

Wait until the room cools down a bit and the valve opens properly.
B-)

Thermosatic valves are supplied with a maintenace cap. You remove the
thermosatic head and screw the cap down in its place this closes the
valve properly.

For a permenant fix you need to properly cap the pipes. Compression
stop ends would be the easiest by reusing the nut and olive from the
old valves. Best would be soldered stop ends.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Roger Mills

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Mar 2, 2012, 12:33:17 PM3/2/12

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On 02/03/2012 17:12, Dave Liquorice wrote:

>
> Thermosatic valves are supplied with a maintenace cap. You remove the
> thermosatic head and screw the cap down in its place this closes the
> valve properly.
>

But it's highly desirable to fit the maintenance cap *before* removing
the radiator!
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Fredxx

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Mar 2, 2012, 1:01:12 PM3/2/12

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On 02/03/2012 17:12, Dave Liquorice wrote:

If you're quick, and I was once, you can remove the radiator valve by
undoing the nut while firmly pushing the valve onto the pipe, then
whipping off the valve with thumb ready to cover the pipe. Use a
reverse operation to place the compression cap on the end of the pipe.
If you're luck and quick you'll lose surprisingly little water.

The Medway Handyman

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Mar 2, 2012, 1:16:52 PM3/2/12

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On 02/03/2012 16:30, tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:
> I have removed a radiator in a room that's changing use (and there
> will be other things attached to the wall where the radiator was).
>
> I'm happy enough that the lock-shield valve will be watertight and
> tamper proof but I'm not at all convinced about the thermostatic valve
> at the other end - in fact I've knocked it a couple of times and
> provoked a squirt of water.
>
> Is there anything designed to cap the end or, alternatively, what's the
> best way to bodge it?

These are made for the job, plumbers merchant will sell them. The bodge
is to join the two with a washing machine hose. Don't ask me how I know...

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

tin...@isbd.co.uk

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Mar 2, 2012, 1:03:56 PM3/2/12

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Roger Mills <watt....@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 02/03/2012 17:12, Dave Liquorice wrote:
>
> >
> > Thermosatic valves are supplied with a maintenace cap. You remove the
> > thermosatic head and screw the cap down in its place this closes the
> > valve properly.
> >
>
> But it's highly desirable to fit the maintenance cap *before* removing
> the radiator!

Of course, but as these radiators were installed years before we moved
into this house I've no idea if the maintenance caps are still around
anywhere.

--
Chris Green

Dave Liquorice

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Mar 2, 2012, 2:53:53 PM3/2/12

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On Fri, 02 Mar 2012 18:01:12 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

> If you're quick, and I was once, you can remove the radiator valve by
> undoing the nut while firmly pushing the valve onto the pipe, then
> whipping off the valve with thumb ready to cover the pipe. Use a
> reverse operation to place the compression cap on the end of the pipe.
> If you're luck and quick you'll lose surprisingly little water.

If you have a normal open vented system bung corks in the vent pipe
and feed from the tank and very little water escapes. Do not have
more than one point in the pipe work open at time, that would allow
air in and water out...

Never had a pressurised system but I should imagine if you de
pressurise completely then seal it back up you can again open one
point at a time.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Fredxx

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Mar 2, 2012, 3:14:25 PM3/2/12

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I found the inertia of water in the pipe was significant in reducing
loss in the time the pipe was open. 16-20 ft of head is still over 0.5
Bar pressure.

Bill

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Mar 2, 2012, 3:35:01 PM3/2/12

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In message <m69729-...@chris.zbmc.eu>, tin...@isbd.co.uk writes

There is a fitting designed to do this, it is made by +GF+ I assume
George Fisher castings. It is a cast iron cap that screws onto the
radiator valve and blanks it off. I normally just walk into the local
Plumb Centre and ask for a couple and have no idea what they are called.
They are marked as either 3/4" or 1/2" depending on the size. Plus a bit
of PTFE tape of course.

I have just spent the last half hour Googling looking for them and
failed.

The best I can offer is a mobile phone picture of one, so if you are
desperate I'll upload one later. If you find the name let me know!!
--
Bill

Bill

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Mar 2, 2012, 3:52:02 PM3/2/12

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In message <GKS$XBY17S...@birchnet.demon.co.uk>, Bill
<Bi...@birchnet.demon.co.uk> writes

>There is a fitting designed to do this, it is made by +GF+ I assume
>George Fisher castings. It is a cast iron cap that screws onto the
>radiator valve and blanks it off. I normally just walk into the local
>Plumb Centre and ask for a couple and have no idea what they are
>called. They are marked as either 3/4" or 1/2" depending on the size.
>Plus a bit of PTFE tape of course.
>
> I have just spent the last half hour Googling looking for them and
>failed.
>
>The best I can offer is a mobile phone picture of one, so if you are
>desperate I'll upload one later. If you find the name let me know!!

Not quite what I was thinking of, but these look as if they would do.

<http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-4-End-Cap-End-Stop-Blanking-Nut-Fibre-Di
sc-/150589801535>

http://tinyurl.com/78f88d7
--
Bill

Dave Liquorice

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Mar 2, 2012, 4:21:22 PM3/2/12

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On Fri, 02 Mar 2012 20:14:25 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

> I found the inertia of water in the pipe was significant in reducing
> loss in the time the pipe was open. 16-20 ft of head is still over 0.5
> Bar pressure.

Yeah but with the system blocked off you don't have 1/2 a bar of
pressure squirting nasty black SLF onto the carpet or up the wall
paper...

You might get a desert spoonfull of drible but that's about all.

--
Cheers
Dave.

tin...@isbd.co.uk

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Mar 2, 2012, 4:59:13 PM3/2/12

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Wrong sex! The valve has a 'nut' connecting it to a male thread
sticking out of the radiator.

--
Chris Green

tin...@isbd.co.uk

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Mar 2, 2012, 4:57:25 PM3/2/12

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What "these" are made for the job?

--
Chris Green

The Medway Handyman

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Mar 3, 2012, 4:40:39 AM3/3/12

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http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Brass+Cap+34/d20/sd2697/p51790

The Medway Handyman

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Mar 3, 2012, 4:45:26 AM3/3/12

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Never seen a female rad valve before, normally they are male. However,
something like this from a proper plumbers merchant;

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Compression+Stopend+22mm/d20/sd2697/p66318

tin...@isbd.co.uk

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Mar 3, 2012, 6:44:49 AM3/3/12

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The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> On 02/03/2012 21:57, tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:
> > The Medway Handyman<davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> >> On 02/03/2012 16:30, tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:
> >>> I have removed a radiator in a room that's changing use (and there
> >>> will be other things attached to the wall where the radiator was).
> >>>
> >>> I'm happy enough that the lock-shield valve will be watertight and
> >>> tamper proof but I'm not at all convinced about the thermostatic valve
> >>> at the other end - in fact I've knocked it a couple of times and
> >>> provoked a squirt of water.
> >>>
> >>> Is there anything designed to cap the end or, alternatively, what's the
> >>> best way to bodge it?
> >>
> >> These are made for the job, plumbers merchant will sell them. The bodge
> >> is to join the two with a washing machine hose. Don't ask me how I know...
> >>
> > What "these" are made for the job?
> >
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Brass+Cap+34/d20/sd2697/p51790
>

Aha, yes, thanks.

--
Chris Green

Road_Hog

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Mar 3, 2012, 12:00:22 PM3/3/12

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"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:nGl4r.45570$lx1....@newsfe06.ams2...

That just looks like a cap to me. Surely it would be a stop end?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Compression+Stopend+15mm/d20/sd2697/p84184