Sticking Mazda 6 Tailgate "Handle"
TheScullster
OK I've tried the car maintenance group with no takers, so I'm back to the
tried and trusted UK.D-I-Y.
Anyone know how to free off the "handle" type thing on a Mazda 6 tailgate?
When the tailgate is opened, the handle sticks (almost) in the open
position.
It still latches shut when the tailgate is lowered, but when you come to
re-open it you have to manually re-set the position of the handle, lock and
unlock the car - then operate the handle.
There is a cover over the handle which also covers the number plate lights.
How does that come off?
Looks like removing that could be the key.
Thanks for ideas
Phil
David WE Roberts
"TheScullster" <ph...@dropthespam.com> wrote in message
news:2bOdnSPuIN0gKvbR...@eclipse.net.uk...
I have had something similar with the handle for the tailgate on my Volvo
Estate.
I found opening the tailgate and then squirting loads of WD40 into every gap
using the little plastic tube freed it off.
HTH
Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]
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TheScullster
"David WE Roberts" wrote
>
> I have had something similar with the handle for the tailgate on my Volvo
> Estate.
> I found opening the tailgate and then squirting loads of WD40 into every
> gap using the little plastic tube freed it off.
>
> HTH
>
Maybe I'll give it another try and not be so restrained this time!
Phil
js.b1
> Thanks Dave but that's the first thing I tried.
> Maybe I'll give it another try and not be so restrained this time!
Before you do, check the price of the part.
Body trim parts are proprietary which means the price will knock your
socks off.
Ask one of the Mazda 6 online web forums (usually on USA time) or
www.HonestJohn.co.uk technical if someone has the workshop manual and
can scan/photo the bit for the handle area or tell you how to fix it.
Fasteners tend to be screw-on + push-in round or oblong pegs into
loose metal barbs sockets or plastic barb sockets + push in round or
oblong alignment pegs. If you break them you can have a right time
getting a rattle-free repair or even any repair.
Jim K
> Before you do, check the price of the part.
> Body trim parts are proprietary which means the price will knock your
> socks off.
scrappy?
> Fasteners tend to be screw-on + push-in round or oblong pegs into
> loose metal barbs sockets or plastic barb sockets + push in round or
> oblong alignment pegs. If you break them you can have a right time
> getting a rattle-free repair or even any repair.
or just buy some news ones from ebay/halfords etc.
Jim K
js.b1
> scrappy?
> or just buy some news ones from ebay/halfords etc.
Ebay is a godsend for trim when you break the stuff, as long as you
can find it.
Jim K
> Ebay is a godsend for trim when you break the stuff, as long as you
> can find it.
Yup! pretty good for the fasteners you were referring to being "hard"
to find - hence my suggestion...
Jim K
js.b1
Not the fasteners - the *trim*.
It is possible to remove trim in such a manner as to render refitment
very difficult indeed.
There are 3D location pegs re X-Y position and also Z (height), these
just fit into oblong stampings in the body. There are oblong pegs
which locate into the metal barbs which slot into oblong stampings in
the body. There are also found pegs with metal ball-ends which locate
into plastic barbs which locate into round stampings in the body.
Other pegs slide in whilst others press in, so you sometimes have to
find hidden screws, then pull to unlatch some, then slide the whole
thing off. Door panels tend to be like this, with a mix of fastening
systems and "butyl goo" sealant on the clear plastic sheet (3M 38509 I
think is the code, it is a butyl-based sealant that never sets, just
goes tacky - good for general re-enterable waterproofing).
wagg...@gmail.com
Realise this post is old but I've added my solution to this in the hope that it helps. There is a coiled spring that returns the handle to the default closed position. Lubricating it solved the problem for me; it rusts and sticks over time. It's probably is accessible by removing the trim covering the number plate lights but I wouldn't do this for the reasons described in other posts. Here's what I did on my 2005 Mazda 6 Hatchback:
1.) Open the boot and raise it fully so you are looking at the boot handle above you
2.) Fully close (push away from you) the boot handle
3.) Still looking at the boot handle above you, shine a focused torch through the small gap on the outer side of the handle to see the spring above it
4.) Lubricate the spring with some light machine oil or equivalent
5.) Work in the oil by opening and closing the handle. Mine felt as good as new after a couple of minutes
The tricky thing is finding something small enough to squeeze oil through the gap and deliver it on top of the spring. I used the very fine nozzle of a small bottle of muc off wet bike lube but even that only just made it.
Hope this helps others.