Leaking valve/washerr :(
Simon (Dark Angel)
Problem is its started leaking from 1/2" threaded end, where it connects onto the ball valve fitting.
I replaced the fibre washer, it still leaks. Tried putting thread tape around the threads on the ball valve fitting, it STILL leaks.
Also, it seems to leak worse when its done up tight than when its slack.
May seem like a simplistic question, but how the hell do I cure this? The two things I thought would remedy this haven't worked. Am I doing somethign wrong? Should I just slap "Plumbers mait" compound all over the joint and hope for the best?
TIA
--
Best Wishes
Simon (aka Dark Angel)
Dark Angel's Realm of Horror - http://www.realmofhorror.co.uk
The Medway Handyman
> On the water supply to my toilet cistern there's a 15mm ballofix type
> isolating valve. One side is a 15mm compression fitting, which goes
> onto the copper pipe. The other is a 1/2" female screw fitting, which
> screws onto the threaded connection to the cistern ball valve, like
> the one in this pic...
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ya22ztv
>
> Problem is its started leaking from 1/2" threaded end, where it
> connects onto the ball valve fitting.
If thats plastic it highly likely its cross threaded
> I replaced the fibre washer, it still leaks. Tried putting thread
> tape around the threads on the ball valve fitting, it STILL leaks.
>
> Also, it seems to leak worse when its done up tight than when its
> slack.
All points to cross threading. When I fit new ball valves I hand tighten
the tap connector, then do up the nut that holds the ball valve into the
cistern.
Might have to replace it.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Heliotrope Smith
news:NcednVhd8eNAnw3W...@bt.com:
> On the water supply to my toilet cistern there's a 15mm ballofix type
> isolating valve. One side is a 15mm compression fitting, which goes
> onto the copper pipe. The other is a 1/2" female screw fitting, which
> screws onto the threaded connection to the cistern ball valve, like
> the one in this pic...
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ya22ztv
>
> Problem is its started leaking from 1/2" threaded end, where it
> connects onto the ball valve fitting.
>
> I replaced the fibre washer, it still leaks. Tried putting thread tape
> around the threads on the ball valve fitting, it STILL leaks.
>
> Also, it seems to leak worse when its done up tight than when its
> slack.
>
> May seem like a simplistic question, but how the hell do I cure this?
> The two things I thought would remedy this haven't worked. Am I doing
> somethign wrong? Should I just slap "Plumbers mait" compound all over
> the joint and hope for the best?
>
> TIA
>
>
A) Check and check again that the threads have not crossed.
B) Ckeck that the leak is not in fact coming form the cistern to float
valve union above it.
C) Plumbers Mait will not cure the problem but there may be other leak
sealers available that could do the job.
D) Check the the threads have not crossed.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
Simon (Dark Angel)
"Heliotrope Smith" <sm...@heliotrope.moc> wrote in message ...
> A) Check and check again that the threads have not crossed.
> B) Ckeck that the leak is not in fact coming form the cistern to float
> valve union above it.
> C) Plumbers Mait will not cure the problem but there may be other leak
> sealers available that could do the job.
> D) Check the the threads have not crossed.
Definately not cross threaded, the leak is definately coming from the joint and not the union above.
The Medway Handyman
> "Heliotrope Smith" <sm...@heliotrope.moc> wrote in message ...
>> A) Check and check again that the threads have not crossed.
>> B) Ckeck that the leak is not in fact coming form the cistern to
>> float valve union above it.
>> C) Plumbers Mait will not cure the problem but there may be other
>> leak sealers available that could do the job.
>> D) Check the the threads have not crossed.
>
> Definately not cross threaded, the leak is definately coming from the
> joint and not the union above.
FUBAR.
Change it.
Simon (Dark Angel)
"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message...
> Change it.
The service valve or the plastic ball valve connection?
The Medway Handyman
> "The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in
> message...
>> Change it.
>
> The service valve or the plastic ball valve connection?
The plastic ball valve.
TheScullster
"Simon (Dark Angel)" wrote
TIA
---------------------------------------------------------------
If the face that's supposed to mate against the washer is damaged or cruddy,
this might explain things.
BUT
As others have mentioned, the fact that it gets worse as you tighten the
joint can also indicate that the plastic threaded part of your inlet valve
may have cracked. This is all the more likely if there is strain on the
copper piping that connects to the inlet.
Phil
David WE Roberts
<m...@privacy.net> wrote in message news:50F2E07240%brian...@lycos.co.uk...
> On 4 Mar,
> "The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> > Problem is its started leaking from 1/2" threaded end, where it
>> > connects onto the ball valve fitting.
>>
>> If thats plastic it highly likely its cross threaded
>
The toilet at my daughter's had a similar problem.
The last bit of the threaded plastic pipe had cracked.
Plumber cut it back to good plastic, fitted a new washer, and the leak was
cured.
[Just managed to save enough pipe to be able to refit the female connector.]
If there is no obvious cracking then replacement may be a good idea.
Most continental cisterns I have seen have a flexible connector for the last
bit of the pipe run.
This seems a good idea to me as it must reduce the stress on the ball valve
connector.
Obviously the 'stiff' pipe must be clipped just before the flexible pipe run
starts.
I often wonder why the 'continentals' do this and the Brits in general do
not.
HTH
Dave R
The Medway Handyman
>
> Most continental cisterns I have seen have a flexible connector for
> the last bit of the pipe run.
> This seems a good idea to me as it must reduce the stress on the ball
> valve connector.
> Obviously the 'stiff' pipe must be clipped just before the flexible
> pipe run starts.
>
> I often wonder why the 'continentals' do this and the Brits in
> general do not.
This Brit does as a matter of course. I think you are spot on.
Simon (Dark Angel)
>
Done and done.
No more leaks I'm pleased to say, thanks for everyones help!