Compression vs. push-fit fittings?
al
main gas pipe!), which is considered the more reliable joining method? What
are the pro's/con's of each? I've used compression, but never push-fit.
Talking about 15mm copper piping for hot water (rads) if that makes any
difference.
a
Andy Hall
wrote:
Push fit fittings work perfectly well provided that you follow
manufacturer instructions. This means that tube ends must be square
and clean. If you are using plastic pipe, use the proper cutting
tool. If you are using copper, then a tubing cutter. On no account
use a hacksaw.
If you feel more comfortable with compression, then fine, but both are
perfectly suitable.
--
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Fred
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
news:2mtp515kuq02vvmio...@4ax.com...
I've done quite a lot of plumbing in my time but not in the last few years.
Am I correct in saying the push-fit variety have a rubber seal in them.
What's the life expectancy of this seal, just that a compression fitting
with a brass olive sounds a far more permanent solution.
Andy Hall
>
>
>I've done quite a lot of plumbing in my time but not in the last few years.
>Am I correct in saying the push-fit variety have a rubber seal in them.
>What's the life expectancy of this seal, just that a compression fitting
>with a brass olive sounds a far more permanent solution.
>
There is usually an O-ring seal made from EPDM, which is a synthetic
rubber.
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1822
Fittings manufacturers guarantee their products for a minimum of 25
years.
http://www.yorkshirefittings.co.uk/databooks/tectite.pdf
Doctor Evil
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
news:2mtp515kuq02vvmio...@4ax.com...
> wrote:
>
> >In locations where one may not want to
> >use a hot torch (like 5cm from the
> >main gas pipe!), which is considered
> >the more reliable joining method? What
> >are the pro's/con's of each? I've used
> >compression, but never push-fit.
> >
> >Talking about 15mm copper piping
> >for hot water (rads) if that makes any
> >difference.
>
> Push fit fittings work perfectly well
> provided that you follow manufacturer
> instructions. This means that tube
> ends must be square and clean. If
> you are using plastic pipe, use the
> proper cutting tool. If you are using
> copper, then a tubing cutter. On no
> account use a hacksaw.
..Lord Hall informs us all with tripe
..hacksaws are used on copper pipe
..you place the saw on pipe in view
..and pull and push until it's through
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AlexW
> On no account
> use a hacksaw.
This /golden rule/ was broken by our plumber (we call him "hamfist").
Over a year later we sprouted 2 leaks due to the O rings eventually
failing, presumably due to nicks introduced by the burrs on the pipe ends.
The rest of his work only just avoided the best bodges thread.
HTH
Alex.
Andy Hall
wrote:
Not reading instructions and using hacksaw
with effect that the water pisses onto the floor..
BTW. What's this new "poetry" stuff?
Do you see yourself as the next Andrew Motion?
I know that most of what you write could be described as "motion", but
this is a new departure.
Dave Plowman (News)
Doctor Evil <Min...@nospam.com> wrote:
> > Push fit fittings work perfectly well
> > provided that you follow manufacturer
> > instructions. This means that tube
> > ends must be square and clean. If
> > you are using plastic pipe, use the
> > proper cutting tool. If you are using
> > copper, then a tubing cutter. On no
> > account use a hacksaw.
> ..Lord Hall informs us all with tripe
> ..hacksaws are used on copper pipe
> ..you place the saw on pipe in view
> ..and pull and push until it's through
Using a proper tube cutter produces a slightly 'rolled over' end in copper
tube - ideal for the smooth and damage free entry to a rubber seal.
I'm surprised one of your claimed experience hasn't noticed this? Perhaps
a visit to Specsavers is needed. They advertise heavily so you must know
about them?
--
*If a turtle doesn't have a shell, is he homeless or naked?
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Dave Plowman (News)
I really can't understand a pro - or anyone plumbing for money - not using
the correct tube cutter. They're hardly expensive, and save time too,
apart from giving the cut required.
Of course bar room experts like IMM or Drivel will always think they know
better.
--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her
Dave Plowman (News)
Andy Hall <an...@hall.nospam> wrote:
> BTW. What's this new "poetry" stuff?
Glad you put poetry in parenthesis...
> Do you see yourself as the next Andrew Motion?
> I know that most of what you write could be described as "motion", but
> this is a new departure.
I'd suspect a new medication. Perhaps they'll get the dose right soon.
--
*Bigamy is having one wife too many - monogamy is the same
Andy Hall
<da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <425d...@news.usenetzone.com>,
> Doctor Evil <Min...@nospam.com> wrote:
>> > Push fit fittings work perfectly well
>> > provided that you follow manufacturer
>> > instructions. This means that tube
>> > ends must be square and clean. If
>> > you are using plastic pipe, use the
>> > proper cutting tool. If you are using
>> > copper, then a tubing cutter. On no
>> > account use a hacksaw.
>
>> ..Lord Hall informs us all with tripe
>> ..hacksaws are used on copper pipe
>> ..you place the saw on pipe in view
>> ..and pull and push until it's through
>
>Using a proper tube cutter produces a slightly 'rolled over' end in copper
>tube - ideal for the smooth and damage free entry to a rubber seal.
>
>I'm surprised one of your claimed experience hasn't noticed this? Perhaps
>a visit to Specsavers is needed. They advertise heavily so you must know
>about them?
Being our onanist-par-excellence I would have thought that he would be
a regular Specsavers customer..... :-)
[news]
> In article <425d10f4$0$79455$1472...@news.sunsite.dk>,
> AlexW <with...@spamtrap.not> wrote:
> > > On no account use a hacksaw.
>
> > This /golden rule/ was broken by our plumber (we call him "hamfist").
>
> > Over a year later we sprouted 2 leaks due to the O rings eventually
> > failing, presumably due to nicks introduced by the burrs on the pipe
> > ends.
>
> > The rest of his work only just avoided the best bodges thread.
>
> I really can't understand a pro - or anyone plumbing for money - not using
> the correct tube cutter. They're hardly expensive, and save time too,
> apart from giving the cut required.
aye, kopex and robocut rule.
RT
AlexW
> In article <425d10f4$0$79455$1472...@news.sunsite.dk>,
> AlexW <with...@spamtrap.not> wrote:
>
>>>On no account use a hacksaw.
>
>
>>This /golden rule/ was broken by our plumber (we call him "hamfist").
>
>
>>Over a year later we sprouted 2 leaks due to the O rings eventually
>>failing, presumably due to nicks introduced by the burrs on the pipe
>>ends.
>
>
>>The rest of his work only just avoided the best bodges thread.
>
>
> I really can't understand a pro - or anyone plumbing for money - not using
> the correct tube cutter. They're hardly expensive, and save time too,
> apart from giving the cut required.
>
> Of course bar room experts like IMM or Drivel will always think they know
> better.
>
It amazes me too!
Hamfist, we found, was just unbeleivably lazy and shortsightedly tight.
Eg. loo:
Couldn't be arsed scraping a little plaster off the floor, before
fitting loo, hence it wobbled until I refitted it recently.
Cistern tied to plasterboard with std rawplugs. Still they were easy to
pull out by hand when (as I had to refit anyway).
Pan adapter a bit too short and seal fouling end of spigot, still he had
plenty of mait so it didn't leak (much) ... loo blocked regularly until
refitted.
Also, in the kitchen he seemed unable to grasp that the waste adapter on
the sink leaked. "Fixed" it 3 times, and then I had to fix it once more
in a manner which actually removed said leak ... it was just a creased
seal.
The list goes on and on ...
In the end I paid him just to keep him out of the house, his fixes had
usually a negative effect.
Alex.
Doctor Evil
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
..the hacksaw comes with instructions on hand
..Lord Hall is unable to understand
..how to saw copper pipe he asks
..not knowing simple DIY tasks
..One more point I will will have to say
..Lord Halls top hat gets in the way
al
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
news:2mtp515kuq02vvmio...@4ax.com...
> manufacturer instructions. This means that tube ends must be square
> and clean. If you are using plastic pipe, use the proper cutting
> tool. If you are using copper, then a tubing cutter. On no account
> use a hacksaw.
>
> If you feel more comfortable with compression, then fine, but both are
> perfectly suitable.
>
I got one of the little mini-cutters for difficult places so I should get a
good cut and be able to clean it up a bit with some wire wool. Which brings
me to my next point .... since I'll have to join to the end of an old pipe,
it sounds like I may get a more reliable join with a compression fitting.
I've heard of using both PTFE tape and threadseal over the olive to help
seal it up more. Hype or help?
a
Andy Hall
wrote:
>..the hacksaw comes with instructions on hand
>..Lord Hall is unable to understand
>
>..how to saw copper pipe he asks
>..not knowing simple DIY tasks
>
>..One more point I will will have to say
>..Lord Halls top hat gets in the way
>
I know your source of cut and paste for this..
It's your Rupert books, isn't it?
For example:
To try to help the working elves,
The chums go underground themselves
Do you wear yellow trousers by any chance?
:::Jerry::::
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
LOL, but one has to ask *how* do you know, memories from childhood,
reading to your child or perhaps you just have overly large ears ?!..
:~)
Pete C
wrote:
>I got one of the little mini-cutters for difficult places so I should get a
>good cut and be able to clean it up a bit with some wire wool. Which brings
>me to my next point .... since I'll have to join to the end of an old pipe,
>it sounds like I may get a more reliable join with a compression fitting.
>
>I've heard of using both PTFE tape and threadseal over the olive to help
>seal it up more. Hype or help?
Hi,
Couple of hints here:
cheers,
Pete.
Doctor Evil
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
> On Wed, 13 Apr 2005 14:29:06 +0100, "Doctor Evil" <Min...@nospam.com>
> wrote:
>
> >..the hacksaw comes with instructions on hand
> >..Lord Hall is unable to understand
> >
> >..how to saw copper pipe he asks
> >..not knowing simple DIY tasks
> >
> >..Lord Halls top hat gets in the way
>
> I know your source of cut and paste for this..
>
> It's your Rupert books, isn't it?
>
> For example:
>
> To try to help the working elves,
> The chums go underground themselves
>
> Do you wear yellow trousers by any chance?
..Lord Hall he has a favourite book
..every night he has a look
..the bumper version big and set
..the size of a front doorstep
..the contents of he thinks it matters
..this large print tome is now in tatters
..from constant thumbing its ripped apart
..from gaining knowledge it did impart
..from big colour piccies he is turned on so
.."How Things Work" it lets him know
..from this book has a peep
..It's under his pillow while Lord Halls asleep
..the moral of this encyclopaedic tree
..is not to pinch books from kids under three
Andy Hall
wrote:
>
>
>LOL, but one has to ask *how* do you know, memories from childhood,
>reading to your child or perhaps you just have overly large ears ?!..
>:~)
>
All of the above really ;-)
Mike
"Fred" <Fr...@n0spam.c0m> wrote in message
news:425cffcd$0$26348$db0f...@news.zen.co.uk...
>
> I've done quite a lot of plumbing in my time but not in the last few
years.
> Am I correct in saying the push-fit variety have a rubber seal in them.
> What's the life expectancy of this seal, just that a compression fitting
> with a brass olive sounds a far more permanent solution.
With the acidity of our water here the plastic O ring lasts a lot longer
than the compression joint.
John Stumbles
> In locations where one may not want to use a hot torch (like 5cm from the
> main gas pipe!),
If the pipe you're working on is 50mm away from your gas pipe then you
should be able to solder it quite safely if you use a heat shield such as a
glass-fibre mat to protect the gas pipe from the flame.
al
news:ZPA7e.20608$Uc7.2430@newsfe2-
> If the pipe you're working on is 50mm away from your gas pipe then you
> should be able to solder it quite safely if you use a heat shield such as
> a
> glass-fibre mat to protect the gas pipe from the flame.
>
With one of the pipes, it was about 20cm away - we used a heat mat draped
over it just in case and tried to keep the flame in a different direction.
Still not my idea of fun though! Naked flames are never a good thing around
gas (it was about 60cm away from the back of the boiler too ... you wouldn't
want a leak!). The other pipes were just too close - used compression
fittings instead.
a
hansen
> years.
>
> http://www.yorkshirefittings.co.uk/databooks/tectite.pdf
I had three serious leaks in my brand new Barratt house in just over
a year, all due to plastic plumbing with push fittings. There must
have been 50-100 of them in the house, what's the statistical chance
that one will pop again in the next few years? Pretty high I think.
If I have to use one or two on retrofits then maybe, but I don't care
what Yorkshire Fittings say, personally I'd say no way in hell I'll
ever use plastic plumbing with push fittings again to any serious
degree.
In my previous new house build (France) the plumbers arrived with
rolls (rolls, not lengths) of copper pipes. Not a single connector
anywhere except for three distribution points and the taps/radiators.
And not a single leak in the four years we spent there.
Why plumbers in this country still insist on dodgy joins every ~2m of
plumbing installations in brand new houses is a mystery to me.