Compression fitting in oil line
Philip Katz
at a compression joint. I am assuming that the repair involves turning off
the oil, waiting for the heating to go out (emptying the pipe) and then
replacing the compression joint. However I am something of an amateur when
it comes to plumbing, and have never done anything at all on an oil pipe,
so:
1) Are my assumptions as to the ease of this job valid? In particular, are
there any potential dangers which mean that I should pay a professional to
do it?
2) Can I use a normal plumbing compression fitting, or are there special
ones for oil lines?
3) Can I use PTFE, or is there something else used with oil?
4) Do I need to take any precautions to prevent an air lock forming in the
pipe?
5) Do oil pipes need to be lagged against freezing, or is this not an issue?
--
Philip Katz
Hertfordshire, England
Phili...@hotmail.com
removeth...@which.net
Is the compression fitting itself damaged ? Have you tried tightening
it up a little ? or is the pipe going into it damaged.
If the pipe you may have to remove a section of damaged pipe .
When I changed one I just used the normal type used for plumbing
purposes.
Identify the size before you do anything else - ISTR it is stamped on
the compression nut - possibly 10 or 8mm. If in doubt get 1 of each
size !
Turn of oil tank tap, turn off CH boiler, get a container to catch the
dregs and wear suitable gloves. Be prepared for a bit of a mess and
smell. IMHO PTFE tape should play no part in using a compression
fitting.
Oil supplies shouldnt need lagging.
Robert
leo
<Phili...@hotmail.com> writes
>The oil line from the (outside) oil tank to our central heating is leaking
>at a compression joint. I am assuming that the repair involves turning off
>the oil, waiting for the heating to go out (emptying the pipe) and then
>replacing the compression joint. However I am something of an amateur when
>it comes to plumbing, and have never done anything at all on an oil pipe,
>so:
Have you tried tightening the existing fitting gently?
--
leo
John
Philip Katz <Phili...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8amh6m$oc4$1...@plutonium.btinternet.com...
> The oil line from the (outside) oil tank to our central heating is
leaking
> at a compression joint. I am assuming that the repair involves turning
off
> the oil, waiting for the heating to go out (emptying the pipe) and then
> replacing the compression joint. However I am something of an amateur
when
> it comes to plumbing, and have never done anything at all on an oil pipe,
> so:
>
are
> there any potential dangers which mean that I should pay a professional
to
> do it?
1. Turn off the boiler
2. Turn off the tank outlet valve
3. If you have a sight tube type tank gauge turn it off or plug the end
airtight
4. Since all ports to the pipe are now closed any oil in it will remain in
(with a bit of care) while you part the joint and remake it. Be prepared to
catch any spillage with a tray or copious cloths (Oh and take suitable
precautions against fire - low hazard)
>
> 2) Can I use a normal plumbing compression fitting, or are there special
> ones for oil lines?
There is very little pressure on the oil feed from the typical domestic
tank but the size may give you problems. Most fuel lines are in 10mm OD
soft copper, sometimes you come across 15mm or even 8mm. Make sure you have
the right fittings before you start. You "may" only need a new olive in the
old fitting
>
> 3) Can I use PTFE, or is there something else used with oil?
You should not need any PTFE compression fitiings are metal to metal joints
(we've said this interminable times before)
You may care to put a slight smear of Red Stag compound on the pipe end as
an aid to lubrication of the olive to compress to the pipe.
DO NOT overtighten the joint - nip it by hand then try a half turn with a
spanner and turn the fuel on. If it drips give it a SLIGHT extra nip until
it stops. Then leave it alone.
Restore all valves, switches and unplug the gauge if you had to plug it.
>
> 4) Do I need to take any precautions to prevent an air lock forming in
the
> pipe?
If a bit of air gets in it may cause your boiler to misfire and lockout
depending on what type it is. If yours does lock out simply resetting it
(no more than twice) may be all it needs. If not you will have to bleed the
pump via the bleed nipple (looks like a brake bleed nipple on a car)
>
> 5) Do oil pipes need to be lagged against freezing, or is this not an
issue?
Not anywhere in the UK for Kerosine, Red diesel AKA gas oil may wax up if
summer grade is used in winter. Most oil companies became aware that people
buy for all year duty in the summer if the tank is big enough and so sell
winter grade all year now but ASK yours.
HTH
--
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Horse sense is what horses have that makes them not bet on people - W.C.
Fields
Regards,
John
Philip Katz
news:N8Z7pHAK...@lgab.demon.co.uk...
leaking
> >at a compression joint.
>
Yes ... and I wasn't the first to try this, as the marks on the compression
joint testify!!