Question: Fixing electrics or other services when wall covered in Celotex or Kingspan

[Clive]

Hi,

Say I cover a wall with 5cm / 2inch thick Celotex/Kingspan. Are
there any issues about running electrics or water pipes?

I am thinking that water will be easy because there is no chasing
out the wall to be done - just leave a space between sheets of the
insulation and clip the pipes to the wall.

It's the fixing of power socket I need to check. Would there be
sufficiently deep metal boxes that I could screw directly into the
brickwork/mortar, but still end up flush with the topcoat of plaster
on the wall or is there some other method of fixing or associated
issues?

Thanks

Clive

[Lobster]

Clive wrote:

> It's the fixing of power socket I need to check. Would there be
> sufficiently deep metal boxes that I could screw directly into the
> brickwork/mortar, but still end up flush with the topcoat of plaster
> on the wall or is there some other method of fixing or associated
> issues?

Might be hard to find them quite that deep (once you've added the
thickness of the plasterboard, skim plaster and probably an airgap
between bricks and celotex); but if so, then just pack the backboxes out
to be flush with the front of the wall by screwing a timber plate of
appropriate thickness to the wall first (before you fit the celotex).

David

[Clive]

> Might be hard to find them quite that deep (once you've added the
> thickness of the plasterboard, skim plaster and probably an airgap
> between bricks and celotex); but if so, then just pack the backboxes out
> to be flush with the front of the wall by screwing a timber plate of
> appropriate thickness to the wall first (before you fit the celotex).
>
> David

Good idea.

Ta

[The Medway Handyman]

Or just use dry lining boxes that attach to the plasterboard.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MTMDLB5.html

The red plastic lugs are adjustable to different thickness's & lock in place
behind the board.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

[ma...@atics.co.uk]

On 6 Jan, 16:05, "The Medway Handyman"

<davidl...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Clive wrote:
> >> Might be hard to find them quite that deep (once you've added the
> >> thickness of the plasterboard, skim plaster and probably an airgap
> >> between bricks and celotex); but if so, then just pack the backboxes
> >> out to be flush with the front of the wall by screwing a timber
> >> plate of appropriate thickness to the wall first (before you fit the
> >> celotex).
>
> >> David
>
> > Good idea.
>

> Or just use dry lining boxes that attach to the plasterboard.http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MTMDLB5.html

>
> The red plastic lugs are adjustable to different thickness's & lock in place
> behind the board.
>
> --
> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk               01634 717930                      07850 597257       

I have just had to do this with both new and existing sockets where I
have put on internal insulation on the walls (600 thick random Welsh
stone rendered in and outside)
For new ones I simply put in plasterboard ones as per the Medway
Handyman's excellent suggestion
For the existing ones, I was advised that there is an electrical
regulation the limits the amount of space not metallic prior to the
socket and that it was necessary either to get an extension or move
the socket
I did the latter and where needed crimped the wires to exend (but most
were loose enough)
Chris

[David Hansen]

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 06:48:46 -0800 (PST) someone who may be Clive
<clive...@yahoo.com> wrote this:-

> Say I cover a wall with 5cm / 2inch thick Celotex/Kingspan. Are
>there any issues about running electrics or water pipes?

Probably.

> It's the fixing of power socket I need to check. Would there be
>sufficiently deep metal boxes that I could screw directly into the
>brickwork/mortar, but still end up flush with the topcoat of plaster
>on the wall or is there some other method of fixing or associated
>issues?

That's the easy bit. You could always use some material to get the
back of the box in the right place. Wood is typically used.

The main question is where the cables are run. Cables buried in
insulation or with one side in contact with insulation must be
derated.

--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

[Lobster]

David Hansen wrote:

> The main question is where the cables are run. Cables buried in
> insulation or with one side in contact with insulation must be
> derated.

You know, I wonder how many millions of buildings there are in the UK
where ceiling/roof insulation has been added since the wiring was
installed, and where there hasn't been a moment's consideration given to
this requirement.

I mean, has anyone ever heard of one of these outfits who come round and
fit insulation professionally ever eyeballing the wiring and saying 'no
sorry, I won't be able to install any insulation until you've had your
house rewired ?

David

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <PRngj.4126$a61....@newsfe3-win.ntli.net>,

It's not normally an issue with lighting circuits, as the cable
is so overrated anyway. For that 10kW shower fitted to an old
7kW shower circuit, it's a different matter though.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]