Fixing polycarbonate sheets in window frames

[Peter Percival]

Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
would use for glass?

[Tim Watts]

On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:59 Peter Percival wrote in uk.d-i-y:

> Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
> would use for glass?

It will probably work - except that the plastic will flex more than glass
and thus is more likely to open up cracks at the putty joint, letting in
water.

Is that likely to be a problem?
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[Peter Percival]

Tim Watts wrote:
> On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:59 Peter Percival wrote in uk.d-i-y:
>
>> Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
>> would use for glass?
>
> It will probably work - except that the plastic will flex more than glass
> and thus is more likely to open up cracks at the putty joint, letting in
> water.
>
> Is that likely to be a problem?

Could be. I'm glazing (or whatever the word is) a shed. How should I
fix polycarbonate sheets? Or maybe you think glass would be better?

Two follow up questions: how do the costs of glass and polycarbonate
compare? How do their strengths compare?

For a shed, I'm not bothered with matters aesthetic.

[Ferretygubbins]

>"Peter Percival" wrote in message news:ksm2d0$jps$1...@news.albasani.net...

When the kids broke the window (acrylic) in their fortress/shed(*) I
replaced it with polycarb and glued it into place in a rebated frame with MS
Polymer.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/Grab+Adhesive/Stixall+MS+Polymer+290ml+Black/d180/sd3199/p60981

It seems to be flexible enough to cope with the flex in the plastic and it
show no sign of leaking in the last 6 months.

Cheers

Mark

(*) http://www.freewebs.com/fortmiddlewood/index.htm

[John Rumm]

On 23/07/2013 13:59, Peter Percival wrote:

> Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
> would use for glass?

Probably not - the poly will expand and contract several mm as it
temperature cycles (assuming reasonably long lengths of it). Hence why
most fixing systems for it trap it under a rubber seal so that its still
free to move slightly. You may get away with more rigid fixing on
smaller sheets.

--
Cheers,

John.

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[John Rumm]

On 23/07/2013 15:02, Peter Percival wrote:
> Tim Watts wrote:
>> On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:59 Peter Percival wrote in uk.d-i-y:
>>
>>> Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
>>> would use for glass?
>>
>> It will probably work - except that the plastic will flex more than glass
>> and thus is more likely to open up cracks at the putty joint, letting in
>> water.
>>
>> Is that likely to be a problem?
>
> Could be. I'm glazing (or whatever the word is) a shed. How should I
> fix polycarbonate sheets? Or maybe you think glass would be better?

If you mean the flat twin (or 3/4/5) wall stuff, then its fixed with
glazing bars. These are ali channels that screw down to the rafters, the
sheet is then laid into the gap and plastic caps tapped into place on
the tops of the channels. You normally need a proper fixing (screws or
bracket) at one end to prevent the panel creeping out the end.

If you mean the corrugated stuff (like onduline), then its fixed in the
heigh point of the profile using rubber capped screws.

> Two follow up questions: how do the costs of glass and polycarbonate
> compare? How do their strengths compare?

Poly is quite pricey, but very strong, and you can chose various types
of finish (clearish, frosted, bronzed etc)

> For a shed, I'm not bothered with matters aesthetic.

[Tim Watts]

Oh - that's easy then.

Stick it in with a bead of glazing silicone (clear) and use 4 wooden beads
with panel pins to complete (with more silicone) - the latter leads to a
neat job and holds the plastic whilst the silicone cures.

Flexible, waterproof and much easier than putty.

[Phil L]

Peter Percival wrote:
> Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
> would use for glass?

it can be used but I wouldn't reccomend it.
If you've got a rebated frame, you might want to get some wooden beading and
use that to keep the poly in place

[Brian Gaff]

Also, wheras glass cracks if the frame moves the Pc sheets seem to turn into
Rolf Harris Wobble boards after a few years!
Brian

--
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[Peter Percival]

Tim Watts wrote:
> On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:02 Peter Percival wrote in uk.d-i-y:
>
>> Tim Watts wrote:
>>> On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:59 Peter Percival wrote in uk.d-i-y:
>>>
>>>> Can the same putty used to fix polycarbonate in wooden frames as one
>>>> would use for glass?
>>>
>>> It will probably work - except that the plastic will flex more than glass
>>> and thus is more likely to open up cracks at the putty joint, letting in
>>> water.
>>>
>>> Is that likely to be a problem?
>>
>> Could be. I'm glazing (or whatever the word is) a shed. How should I
>> fix polycarbonate sheets? Or maybe you think glass would be better?
>>
>> Two follow up questions: how do the costs of glass and polycarbonate
>> compare? How do their strengths compare?
>>
>> For a shed, I'm not bothered with matters aesthetic.
>
> Oh - that's easy then.
>
> Stick it in with a bead of glazing silicone (clear) and use 4 wooden beads
> with panel pins to complete (with more silicone) - the latter leads to a
> neat job and holds the plastic whilst the silicone cures.
>
> Flexible, waterproof and much easier than putty.

Thanks, that's what I'll do.

[John Rumm]

Keep in mind you need to use natural cure silicone, since the acetic
cure will cloud polycarbonate.

[Peter Percival]

I'm glad you mentioned that because I wasn't aware that there were two
kinds!


--
Nam Nguyen in sci.logic in the thread 'Q on incompleteness proof'
on 16/07/2013 at 02:16: "there can be such a group where informally
it's impossible to know the truth value of the abelian expression
Axy[x + y = y + x]".

[fred]

In article <ksp8sc$vmr$1...@news.albasani.net>, Peter Percival
<peterxp...@hotmail.com> writes

>John Rumm wrote:
>>
>> Keep in mind you need to use natural cure silicone, since the acetic
>> cure will cloud polycarbonate.
>
>I'm glad you mentioned that because I wasn't aware that there were two
>kinds!
>

Watch out too for cheapie places like toolstation (or used to be cheapie
places like screwfix) not always stating the cure of their of their
silicone products or incorrectly stating 'suitable for glazing' on
acetoxy cure when it is not suitable for sealing double glazed units[1].
Make sure it actually says neutral cure and if it has been misdescribed
(acetoxy smells of vinegar) then take it back.

Another alternative is to use glazing tapes to secure the poly. Double
sided security glazing tape[2] first to secure the poly to the frame
which stops casual removal by scrotes then use single sided tape glazing
tape stuck to the glazing beads which complete the seal when you tap and
tail them in. IMV an easier task with less wet work but I have the tapes
in stock here.

[1] I assume this is due to the risk of corrosion of the aluminium tape
frequently used over the sealed edges or of the aluminium spacer bars.

[2] Smooth foam tape usually about 2mm thick with strong permanent
adhesive on both sides.

[3] Thicker foam tape, 3-4mm with adhesive on one side and ridges on the
other side to enhance the sealing effect when compressed.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .