Water Damage to Kitchen Worktop
Simon Mogridge
worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
worktop is a non-starter, i just could not face it after taking such a
long time to complete the kitchen!
I would be very grateful for your help. Regards, Simon
Ian Stirling
You have a problem.
If you can get to the back of the worktop, then carefully removing all
of the chipboard in the area of the blister, without going through the
surface.
Now, fill.
Every time you put kitchen units or worktops in, I'd strongly recommend
coating the edges with several coats of an exterior oil-based waterproofer.
This will mean that it won't suck water up like a sponge.
Do you have a spare bit of the worktop?
You might try various fixes on it.
I'd try setting an iron on 130-150C, and pressing it on for half an hour.
Set Square
Simon Mogridge <simonmo...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
Sadly, there's not a lot you can do. Once chipboard gets wet and swells up,
there's no going back.
When joining raw edges of worktop, it is usual to coat both with a thin
layer of clear silicon sealant - most of which gets squeezed out and wiped
off when you do the clamps up - but it helps to stop any damp getting in.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Yebligs
worktops, you have my greatest sympathy Simon! You must be gutted.
This is the one area that I'm least confident of success, particularly as I
have to do a join under the sink! (see other post)
Best insurance seems to be in the sealing. I notice Set Square says 'most of
which (silicon) gets squeezed out', so I wonder if waterproof PVA wouldn't
do a better, and deeper, seal?
Did you seal the end when you installed and what with?
Steve
"Set Square" <d...@privacy.net> wrote in message
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Grunff
> Best insurance seems to be in the sealing. I notice Set Square says 'most of
> which (silicon) gets squeezed out', so I wonder if waterproof PVA wouldn't
> do a better, and deeper, seal?
No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact that
most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.
--
Grunff
rrh
> No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
> squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact that
> most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.
>
> --
> Grunff
Use both: seal the edges (I use two or three coats of solvent-based
polyurethane varnish) then clear silicone when fitting.
Tony Bryer
> No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it gets
> squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends. The fact
> that most of it gets squeezed out is a /good/ thing.
A tip I got off a website was when you do this to sprinkle sawdust on
the join (after assembly of course): it takes off all the excess
silicone nice and cleanly.
--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
Grunff
> A tip I got off a website was when you do this to sprinkle sawdust on
> the join (after assembly of course): it takes off all the excess
> silicone nice and cleanly.
I used to hate using silicone, always made a mess - until I discovered a
solvent that removes it (when fresh, not set). Once you have this,
cleanup becomes so much easier. I can honestly say it changed my life.
--
Grunff
a
Just cut a worktop myself (how hard are these things! - I blunted 2 laminate
jigsaw blades cutting 1 length and a sink cutout!), the leaflet inside the
plastic cover said "it is good practice to put 2 coats of varnish 50mm
around all cut edges". The pipe cutouts in the white carcasses I just
smeared with white silicone (white to try and hide some of the chips the
jigsaw made :o)
Jerry Built
> Grunf? wrote:
> > No, silicone is the thing to use here. The point is that as it
> > gets squeezed out, it fills any gaps between the two cut ends.
>
That is the best way to do it. You can also use gloss paint.
J.B.
Yebligs
of that here at the moment!
Cough, sneeze, snuffle :-)
John Rumm
> A leaking kettle has damage the newly installed laminated chipboard
> worktop in my kitchen. A raised area/blister approx 8 x 3cm and 1mm
> high has appeared at the butt joint. As you might guess, the joint
> lies over the edges of two carcases and the application of a clamp is
> impossible. Can anyone please tell me how i can remove the blister
> and re-seal the joint with out major damage. The replacement of the
Not tried this - so have a go on some scrap worktop first to see how
well it will work!
If you have a router and a set of inlay cutter bushes, say:-
http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=GBCOLL7914
It may be possible to machine out a section of the laminate, rebate the
swolen chipboard to a depth where it is sound, fill, and then relaminate
with a section cut from a bit of scrap. Not a simple task but might work.
--
Cheers,
John.
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MBQ
So what's the solvent?!
MBQ
Grunff
> So what's the solvent?!
Isopropanol.
--
Grunff
Simon Mogridge
Thanks for all your advice. I did use the glue/sealent which came
with the worktop and i was sure the seal was good! Oh well....I will
try the iron set low first and then Johns fix with a router. God help
me. Cheers, Simon
Pete C
Mogridge) wrote:
>Thanks for all your advice. I did use the glue/sealent which came
>with the worktop and i was sure the seal was good! Oh well....I will
>try the iron set low first and then Johns fix with a router. God help
>me. Cheers, Simon
Hi,
Epoxy would do a good job of sealing the chipboard.
cheers,
Pete.
Miss Stephanie Conduit
Furniture polish breaks down the silicone and then it’s a quick wipe up job.
Just spray on the area and leave for 5-10 mins and get a cloth and any excess
should come away really easily. 😃
Great for annoying sticky labels on things too! 🤭
Sorry to interupt
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alan_m
> Sorry to interupt
Very difficult to interrupt a conversation that ended 14 years ago.
Please check the dates of the article you are referencing.
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