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Is there an easy and cheap way to apply veneer to MDF?
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MM
May 3, 2012, 1:31:31 AM5/3/12
to
I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
even thought of using Fablon.
Ideas?
MM
toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
even thought of using Fablon.
Ideas?
MM
Nightjar
May 3, 2012, 2:24:33 AM5/3/12
to
Colin Bignell
Tim
May 3, 2012, 4:01:10 AM5/3/12
to
instead staining/varnishing the mdf and making a feature of the fact that
it IS MDF rather than trying to hide it. Trying to veneer a lot of pigeon
holes sounds like way to much trouble anyway. (Fablon would look even
worse IMO)
Tim
NT
May 3, 2012, 3:56:02 AM5/3/12
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residue. How to really ruin furniture. Hence its great fall from
popularity.
NT
Derek Geldard
May 3, 2012, 7:37:18 AM5/3/12
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On Thu, 3 May 2012 00:56:02 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow...@care2.com>
wrote:
Ahh Fablon. TWTD
There were nowt like a Fablonned fridge, especially one with the
patterns printed with slimy dog oil the colours of blood vomit half
rubbed off.
DerekG
wrote:
There were nowt like a Fablonned fridge, especially one with the
patterns printed with slimy dog oil the colours of blood vomit half
rubbed off.
DerekG
Man at B&Q
May 3, 2012, 7:47:05 AM5/3/12
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On May 3, 9:01 am, Tim <timdownie2...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Nightjar <c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
> > On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
> >> I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
> >> toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
> >> instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
> >> even thought of using Fablon.
>
> > Do a search for iron-on wood veneer. Very simple to apply.
>
> > Colin Bignell
>
> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
Which is a very pleasing look.
> Nightjar <c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
> > On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
> >> I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
> >> toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
> >> instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
> >> even thought of using Fablon.
>
> > Do a search for iron-on wood veneer. Very simple to apply.
>
> > Colin Bignell
>
> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
What's the problem?
MBQ
Adam Aglionby
May 3, 2012, 7:51:49 AM5/3/12
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On May 3, 12:37 pm, Derek Geldard
<asparagus.wee....@miniac.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> On Thu, 3 May 2012 00:56:02 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow2...@care2.com>
Fablon the fooking hard to apply , stretch free, fragile , residue
leaving plastic that made every project look like it was made out of
old cereal packets, sticky back plastic....
World of plastics has moved on , a lot, look at vehicle wrapping films
and specifically for furniture 3M Di Noc
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/3MGraphics/GraphicSolutions/Products/DI-NOCSelector/
A lot easier than Fablon of old.
Cheers
Adam
<asparagus.wee....@miniac.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> On Thu, 3 May 2012 00:56:02 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow2...@care2.com>
leaving plastic that made every project look like it was made out of
old cereal packets, sticky back plastic....
World of plastics has moved on , a lot, look at vehicle wrapping films
and specifically for furniture 3M Di Noc
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/3MGraphics/GraphicSolutions/Products/DI-NOCSelector/
A lot easier than Fablon of old.
Cheers
Adam
Nightjar
May 3, 2012, 8:13:50 AM5/3/12
to
On 03/05/2012 09:01, Tim wrote:
> Nightjar<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
>> On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
>>> I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
>>> toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
>>> instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
>>> even thought of using Fablon.
>>
>> Do a search for iron-on wood veneer. Very simple to apply.
>>
>> Colin Bignell
>
> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
If it is iron-on wood veneer, rather than printed / embossed foil, it
> Nightjar<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
>> On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
>>> I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
>>> toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
>>> instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
>>> even thought of using Fablon.
>>
>> Do a search for iron-on wood veneer. Very simple to apply.
>>
>> Colin Bignell
>
> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
will look like wood. Even some embossed foils can look good.
> I would suggest
> instead staining/varnishing the mdf and making a feature of the fact that
> it IS MDF rather than trying to hide it.
what material it is made from.
> Trying to veneer a lot of pigeon
> holes sounds like way to much trouble anyway.
veneer will be the easiest way after building.
(Fablon would look even
> worse IMO)
Colin Bignell
BartC
May 3, 2012, 9:01:56 AM5/3/12
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"Nightjar" <c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote in message
news:5b2dndzWRqwe6z_S...@giganews.com...
> On 03/05/2012 09:01, Tim wrote:
>> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
>> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
>> Trying to veneer a lot of pigeon
>> holes sounds like way to much trouble anyway.
>
> It probably would have been better to cover the MDF first, but iron-on
> veneer will be the easiest way after building.
How do you iron the inside of a pigeon hole? Especially the back, if it has
>> holes sounds like way to much trouble anyway.
>
> It probably would have been better to cover the MDF first, but iron-on
> veneer will be the easiest way after building.
a back.
--
Bartc
fred
May 3, 2012, 9:05:34 AM5/3/12
to
Personally I would have veneered the mdf first off
Jeremy Nicoll - news posts
May 3, 2012, 9:39:09 AM5/3/12
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"BartC" <b...@freeuk.com> wrote:
>How do you iron the inside of a pigeon hole? Especially the back, if it has
>a back.
Enlist the help of a very small bird with a very small iron?
>How do you iron the inside of a pigeon hole? Especially the back, if it has
>a back.
--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.
Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply
to newsre...@wingsandbeaks.org.uk replacing "aaa" by "284".
Nightjar
May 3, 2012, 9:54:47 AM5/3/12
to
that. If I had a lot to do, I might even add a handle and probably end
up with something looking like an old-fashioned, non-electric, billiard
table iron.
Colin Bignell
MM
May 3, 2012, 11:24:44 AM5/3/12
to
On Thu, 3 May 2012 09:01:10 +0100, Tim <timdow...@yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:
'making a feature...' well, MDF is quite featureless, isn't it. Sure,
I could just leave it like it is, but it ain't pretty. Functional,
but, well, it has the MDF look.
Why would Fablon look worse? I turned a secondhand side table into a
piano stool by replacing the glass insert with a plywood one that I
covered with Fablon. You really have to look closely to tell.
MM
wrote:
I could just leave it like it is, but it ain't pretty. Functional,
but, well, it has the MDF look.
Why would Fablon look worse? I turned a secondhand side table into a
piano stool by replacing the glass insert with a plywood one that I
covered with Fablon. You really have to look closely to tell.
MM
MM
May 3, 2012, 11:28:01 AM5/3/12
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On Thu, 03 May 2012 13:13:50 +0100, Nightjar
that painting it would be a right pain. Eight relatively small pigeon
holes that you'd have to get a brush in. It would need a couple of
coats of primer, the undercoat and finally top coat. Quite a palaver
when, for example, the iron-on veneer suggestion would be an instant
solution.
>> Trying to veneer a lot of pigeon
>> holes sounds like way to much trouble anyway.
>
>It probably would have been better to cover the MDF first, but iron-on
>veneer will be the easiest way after building.
>
>(Fablon would look even
>> worse IMO)
>
>It always does, no matter what you compare it to.
It may well look worse than real veneer, but worse than raw MDF? No, I
don't think so.
MM
<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
>On 03/05/2012 09:01, Tim wrote:
>> Nightjar<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
>>> On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
>>>> I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
>>>> toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
>>>> instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
>>>> even thought of using Fablon.
>>>
>>> Do a search for iron-on wood veneer. Very simple to apply.
>>>
>>> Colin Bignell
>>
>> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
>
>If it is iron-on wood veneer, rather than printed / embossed foil, it
>will look like wood. Even some embossed foils can look good.
>
>> I would suggest
>> instead staining/varnishing the mdf and making a feature of the fact that
>> it IS MDF rather than trying to hide it.
>
>I would most likely paint it in bright colours, so it becomes irrelevant
>what material it is made from.
Paint is an option, but the reason I'm looking for other options is
>On 03/05/2012 09:01, Tim wrote:
>> Nightjar<c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote:
>>> On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
>>>> I've built a document sorter (pigeon holes) out of 6mm MDF and am
>>>> toying with the idea of painting it. But what about applying veneer
>>>> instead? The external dimensions are approx 50cm x 32cm x 28cm. I've
>>>> even thought of using Fablon.
>>>
>>> Do a search for iron-on wood veneer. Very simple to apply.
>>>
>>> Colin Bignell
>>
>> And it'll probably look like MDF with iron on veneer.
>
>If it is iron-on wood veneer, rather than printed / embossed foil, it
>will look like wood. Even some embossed foils can look good.
>
>> I would suggest
>> instead staining/varnishing the mdf and making a feature of the fact that
>> it IS MDF rather than trying to hide it.
>
>I would most likely paint it in bright colours, so it becomes irrelevant
>what material it is made from.
that painting it would be a right pain. Eight relatively small pigeon
holes that you'd have to get a brush in. It would need a couple of
coats of primer, the undercoat and finally top coat. Quite a palaver
when, for example, the iron-on veneer suggestion would be an instant
solution.
>> Trying to veneer a lot of pigeon
>> holes sounds like way to much trouble anyway.
>
>It probably would have been better to cover the MDF first, but iron-on
>veneer will be the easiest way after building.
>
>(Fablon would look even
>> worse IMO)
>
>It always does, no matter what you compare it to.
don't think so.
MM
MM
May 3, 2012, 11:30:09 AM5/3/12
to
PVA. It'd be a darn sight easier cutting a piece to fit, say, an
internal 'wall' than painting it with two or three coats, plus rubbing
down in between.
MM
MM
May 3, 2012, 11:32:02 AM5/3/12
to
the stuff my mum used to line the dresser shelves. Nowadays I'm sure
there are many far superior products available.
MM
MM
May 3, 2012, 11:33:05 AM5/3/12
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On Thu, 3 May 2012 06:05:34 -0700 (PDT), fred <tpmc...@gmail.com>
wrote:
It's an idea, I suppose.
MM
wrote:
MM
S Viemeister
May 3, 2012, 11:39:00 AM5/3/12
to
On 5/3/2012 11:28 AM, MM wrote:
> Paint is an option, but the reason I'm looking for other options is
> that painting it would be a right pain. Eight relatively small pigeon
> holes that you'd have to get a brush in. It would need a couple of
> coats of primer, the undercoat and finally top coat. Quite a palaver
> when, for example, the iron-on veneer suggestion would be an instant
> solution.
>
Have you considered using a painting sponge, rather than a brush?
> Paint is an option, but the reason I'm looking for other options is
> that painting it would be a right pain. Eight relatively small pigeon
> holes that you'd have to get a brush in. It would need a couple of
> coats of primer, the undercoat and finally top coat. Quite a palaver
> when, for example, the iron-on veneer suggestion would be an instant
> solution.
>
Tim W
May 3, 2012, 11:53:06 AM5/3/12
to
On 03/05/2012 06:31, MM wrote:
skill. Not a job for an amateur or even for a carpenter and wuold be
done before the pieces are assembled (Unless you are thinking about just
the outside of the box, that might be done after assembly)
If by veneer you mean 'some kind of covering which might look like wood'
then yes you could (on the outside only) use fablon, you could use
laminate (not particularly easy to do). What about paper? wallpaper or
any other decorative paper, then varnish over the top. Can't think of
any other options
Tim W
Tim Downie
May 3, 2012, 2:20:41 PM5/3/12
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Tim
Adam Aglionby
May 3, 2012, 8:09:51 PM5/3/12
to
>
> >A lot easier than Fablon of old.
>
> Yes, well, when I say "Fablon" I'm really using the generic term for
> the stuff my mum used to line the dresser shelves. Nowadays I'm sure
> there are many far superior products available.
>
> MM
Comparing Di-Noc with Fablon is a bit like comparing oak with MDF ;-)
> >A lot easier than Fablon of old.
>
> Yes, well, when I say "Fablon" I'm really using the generic term for
> the stuff my mum used to line the dresser shelves. Nowadays I'm sure
> there are many far superior products available.
>
> MM
Di-Noc is at the top end of wrapping products finding their way from
automotive into furniture.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/WrapYourCar/_i.html?_fsub=2343548017
There are other vehicle wrapping films that work very well on wood, re-
positionable adhesives, air release channels, stretch rather than rip,
Fablon these ain`t ;-)
Cheers
Adam
F Murtz
May 3, 2012, 10:18:19 PM5/3/12
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MM
May 4, 2012, 5:20:18 AM5/4/12
to
On Fri, 04 May 2012 12:18:19 +1000, F Murtz <hag...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
For that I'd use that water-based PVA-like coating (satin) that is
invisible after drying. I first started using it about 20 years ago
when the only source of it was Ikea, to optionally "varnish" all the
raw pine furniture it sold. One coat, allow to dry, lightly sand, a
second coat, done!
I get it now from Wilkinson and it's pretty much identical to that
original Ikea product.
MM
wrote:
invisible after drying. I first started using it about 20 years ago
when the only source of it was Ikea, to optionally "varnish" all the
raw pine furniture it sold. One coat, allow to dry, lightly sand, a
second coat, done!
I get it now from Wilkinson and it's pretty much identical to that
original Ikea product.
MM
MM
May 4, 2012, 5:21:42 AM5/4/12
to
manufactured for the trade?
MM
MM
May 4, 2012, 5:24:04 AM5/4/12
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On Thu, 03 May 2012 16:53:06 +0100, Tim W <tim....@mtavirgin.net>
wrote:
Yes, since writing my first post I, too, thought of paper, at least
for the fiddle bits inside the pigeon holes. I could trim paper or
thin coloured card to very exact measurements, and then a coating of
that water-based PVA satin varnish I mentioned elsewhere could prevent
finger marks in extended use.
MM
wrote:
for the fiddle bits inside the pigeon holes. I could trim paper or
thin coloured card to very exact measurements, and then a coating of
that water-based PVA satin varnish I mentioned elsewhere could prevent
finger marks in extended use.
MM
Adam Aglionby
May 4, 2012, 7:01:08 AM5/4/12
to
On May 4, 10:21 am, MM <kylix...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> On Thu, 3 May 2012 17:09:51 -0700 (PDT), Adam Aglionby
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 3 May 2012 17:09:51 -0700 (PDT), Adam Aglionby
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
to sell you a 50m log , for small bits bringing it in from the U.S.
usually works out cheaper, its spectacular but expensive.
Lot cheaper and used it succesfully to colour ply boxes, was lot
easier than painting, instant smooth dense block colours :-), be aware
slightest crumb of dust shows as a bump;
http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/vehiclewrappingvws1.asp
Another vote for some pics ;-)
Cheers
Adam
Martin Bonner
May 4, 2012, 8:55:24 AM5/4/12
to
On Thursday, 3 May 2012 16:53:06 UTC+1, Tim W wrote:
> If you are talking real veneer - veneering is a top end cabinet maker's
> skill. Not a job for an amateur or even for a carpenter
For heavens sake! It's very straightforward if you are just trying to cover the back of a piece of single-sided oak-faced plywood with a sheet of oak veneer. (Which is what I have done.)
> If you are talking real veneer - veneering is a top end cabinet maker's
> skill. Not a job for an amateur or even for a carpenter
If you are trying to do marquetry then that's a different kettle of fish.
> and would be done before the pieces are assembled
Agreed.
MM
May 4, 2012, 10:27:23 AM5/4/12
to
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/pianostool/index.html
...prepared with my own fair hands an hour ago.
MM
MM
May 4, 2012, 10:30:39 AM5/4/12
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On Fri, 4 May 2012 05:55:24 -0700 (PDT), Martin Bonner
<martin...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>On Thursday, 3 May 2012 16:53:06 UTC+1, Tim W wrote:
>> If you are talking real veneer - veneering is a top end cabinet maker's
>> skill. Not a job for an amateur or even for a carpenter
>
>For heavens sake! It's very straightforward if you are just trying to cover the back of a piece of single-sided oak-faced plywood with a sheet of oak veneer. (Which is what I have done.)
>
>If you are trying to do marquetry then that's a different kettle of fish.
Yeah, I wouldn't have thought it a big deal applying the iron-on kind
<martin...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>On Thursday, 3 May 2012 16:53:06 UTC+1, Tim W wrote:
>> If you are talking real veneer - veneering is a top end cabinet maker's
>> skill. Not a job for an amateur or even for a carpenter
>
>For heavens sake! It's very straightforward if you are just trying to cover the back of a piece of single-sided oak-faced plywood with a sheet of oak veneer. (Which is what I have done.)
>
>If you are trying to do marquetry then that's a different kettle of fish.
to a box shape. I wouldn't cover the back as it's against the wall and
I wouldn't bother with the bottom, either. The fiddly bits would be
the pigeon holes, but they'd be fiddly anyway, with paint or whatever.
MM
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