Fixing carport wall plate to house
RJS
The construction is, basically, a horizontal wall plate on which the
rafters sit. The rafters extend perpendicular to the wall to a line
of posts approx. 3.5m from the wall and then there is a series of
cross braces and the whole thing is roofed with corrugated plastic.
The wall plate extends into free space to allow the carport to
overhang the garage behind the house by about 1.5m.
What's the best method of fixing the wall plate to the brick wall?
The bricks are white and don't take kindly to having holes drilled in
them.
On previous constructions such as this I've used Rawlbolts (many years
ago) but my brother-in-law was very sniffy when I suggested them and
said that he uses glued fixings - he's a builder.
TIA
Richard
dennis@home
"RJS" <alt...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:00fa8401-670b-4b29...@33g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
Concrete bolts like TMH will say in a while.
They are as strong as the resin fixings your brother-in-law is suggesting.
The Medway Handyman
I use these for decking wall plates, patio awnings & all sorts.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
8 or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through
timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill
driver to put them in.
No expansion so no split bricks, can be removed & re used.
Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
chris French
<00fa8401-670b-4b29...@33g2000yqu.googlegroups.com>, RJS
<alt...@excite.com> writes
>I'm rebuilding my carport which collapsed under the snow last winter.
>
>The construction is, basically, a horizontal wall plate on which the
>rafters sit. The rafters extend perpendicular to the wall to a line
>of posts approx. 3.5m from the wall and then there is a series of
>cross braces and the whole thing is roofed with corrugated plastic.
>
>The wall plate extends into free space to allow the carport to
>overhang the garage behind the house by about 1.5m.
>
>What's the best method of fixing the wall plate to the brick wall?
>The bricks are white and don't take kindly to having holes drilled in
>them.
>
If you ahven't got one yet, probably worth investing in a SDS for
drilling the holes then, much easier than a hammer drill.
Or borrowing one from your BIL
--
Chris French
harry
I'd be interested to know what glue he proposes (Bollocks I tihnk)
They will have to be drilled, there are numerous fixings out there,
Stainless steel would be good on white bricks.
Or don't have a wall plate, get joist hangers & secure direct to wall.
Snow and wind loads on this sort of construction can be severe.
Roger Mills
>
> I use these for decking wall plates, patio awnings & all sorts.
>
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
>
> 8 or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through
> timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill
> driver to put them in.
>
> No expansion so no split bricks, can be removed & re used.
>
> Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.
>
But don't you need a clearance hole in the timber and a smaller hole in
the brickwork? Have you got a stepped drill, or something?
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Martin Bonner
> On 24/08/2011 21:10, The Medway Handyman wrote:
> >http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
>
> > 8 or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through
> > timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill
> > driver to put them in.
>
> > No expansion so no split bricks, can be removed & re used.
>
> > Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.
>
> But don't you need a clearance hole in the timber and a smaller hole in
> the brickwork? Have you got a stepped drill, or something?
Nah. The thread is not very deep (.5mm?), and that isn't enough to
get stuck in wood.
chris French
<21fae2ca-0e50-49b7...@18g2000yqu.googlegroups.com>,
harry <harol...@aol.com> writes
>On Aug 24, 8:37 pm, RJS <alt...@excite.com> wrote:
>> I'm rebuilding my carport which collapsed under the snow last winter.
>>
>> The construction is, basically, a horizontal wall plate on which the
>> rafters sit. The rafters extend perpendicular to the wall to a line
>> of posts approx. 3.5m from the wall and then there is a series of
>> cross braces and the whole thing is roofed with corrugated plastic.
>>
>> The wall plate extends into free space to allow the carport to
>> overhang the garage behind the house by about 1.5m.
>>
>> What's the best method of fixing the wall plate to the brick wall?
>> The bricks are white and don't take kindly to having holes drilled in
>> them.
>>
>> On previous constructions such as this I've used Rawlbolts (many years
>> ago) but my brother-in-law was very sniffy when I suggested them and
>> said that he uses glued fixings - he's a builder.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Richard
>
>I'd be interested to know what glue he proposes (Bollocks I tihnk)
I think he probably meant resin fixing for the studs.
--
Chris French
Phil L
> On 24/08/2011 21:10, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
>>
>> I use these for decking wall plates, patio awnings & all sorts.
>>
>> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
>>
>> 8 or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through
>> timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill
>> driver to put them in.
>>
>> No expansion so no split bricks, can be removed & re used.
>>
>> Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.
>>
>
> But don't you need a clearance hole in the timber and a smaller hole
> in the brickwork? Have you got a stepped drill, or something?
You just drill straight through plate and brickwork with a masonry bit.
I always use steel washers to spread the load and to make them easier to
tighten right up.
As TMH says, they don't move afterwards and don't split the bricks...we buy
them singly from local hardware store, about 30p each for the 100mm
The Medway Handyman
> On 24/08/2011 21:10, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
>>
>> I use these for decking wall plates, patio awnings & all sorts.
>>
>> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
>>
>> 8 or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through
>> timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill
>> driver to put them in.
>>
>> No expansion so no split bricks, can be removed & re used.
>>
>> Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.
>>
>
> But don't you need a clearance hole in the timber and a smaller hole in
> the brickwork? Have you got a stepped drill, or something?
Nope. For an 8mm fixing I use an 8mm bit, go right through, then drive
in with an impact driver.
RJS
wrote:
> In message
> <21fae2ca-0e50-49b7-a047-6da81373f...@18g2000yqu.googlegroups.com>,
> harry <haroldhr...@aol.com> writes
Yes, something along those lines - he went on about 'chembolts'. But
all that sort of thing is outsed my experience.
R
RJS
wrote:
Thanks Dave
Which items should I be looking at on that pages? Sleave Anchors or
Through Bolts? Don't these expand - much like Rawlbolts - to grip the
hole? My concern about fixing into these wretched bricks is that
even with careful use of SDS+ or 'normal' impact drills the holes tend
to be ragged and uneven because of the way that the brick shatters.
TIA
Richard
RJS
I wondered about joist hangers, but they don't solve the problem of
the section that is exting over my garage and is therefor unsupported.
R
RJS
Thanks Roger
Which fixings on that page should I be looking at? Sleave Anchor or
Through Bolt?
Rgds
Richard
Rick Hughes
"RJS" <alt...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:00fa8401-670b-4b29...@33g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
I would use resin anchors ... no stress on bricks ... now easy to get hold
of (even Screwfix sell them)
RJS
<rick_hughes@remove_me.btconnect.com> wrote:
>
> I would use resin anchors ... no stress on bricks ... now easy to get hold
> of (even Screwfix sell them)
Thanks Rick
This is what my brother-in-law (the builder) suggested. However, I
have no experience of using them and am a little reluctant to learn on
the carport. Is that feeble? Do you know of any idiot guides as to
their use? I gather from Neil (BIL) that clearing all dust from the
hole is essential. He also tells me that there are plugs to prevent
the resin falling into the wall cavity if, as is likely, the hole
breaks through into the cavity.
I have seen resin bonded rockbolts in use in a salt mine and was blown
away by the speed and ease of fitment, but I don't have a multi-
million pound machine to fix them to my carport :-)
Rgds
Richard
The Medway Handyman
> On Aug 24, 9:10 pm, The Medway Handyman<davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
> wrote:
>> On 24/08/2011 20:37, RJS wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I'm rebuilding my carport which collapsed under the snow last winter.
>>
>>> The construction is, basically, a horizontal wall plate on which the
>>> rafters sit. The rafters extend perpendicular to the wall to a line
>>> of posts approx. 3.5m from the wall and then there is a series of
>>> cross braces and the whole thing is roofed with corrugated plastic.
>>
>>> The wall plate extends into free space to allow the carport to
>>> overhang the garage behind the house by about 1.5m.
>>
>>> What's the best method of fixing the wall plate to the brick wall?
>>> The bricks are white and don't take kindly to having holes drilled in
>>> them.
>>
>>> On previous constructions such as this I've used Rawlbolts (many years
>>> ago) but my brother-in-law was very sniffy when I suggested them and
>>> said that he uses glued fixings - he's a builder.
>>
>>
>> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
>>
>> 8 or 10mm will hold just about anything. Just drill straight through
>> timber into brick, make sure hole is deep enough. Use socket or drill
>> driver to put them in.
>>
>>
>> Easier to pull a sailor off your sister than pull one of these out.
>>
>> --
>> Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
> Thanks Dave
>
> Which items should I be looking at on that pages? Sleave Anchors or
> Through Bolts? Don't these expand - much like Rawlbolts - to grip the
> hole? My concern about fixing into these wretched bricks is that
> even with careful use of SDS+ or 'normal' impact drills the holes tend
> to be ragged and uneven because of the way that the brick shatters.
Masonry bolts
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/Masonry+Bolt+M8x100mm/d90/sd2040/p77797
RJS
Thanks Dave. How do they work? I drill a hole that is the size of
the inner diameter of the bolt and the thread simply cuts its way into
the brick?
How do they cope with ragged holes and friable - if that's the right
word - bricks?
In the good(?) old days I would have used Rawlplastic when putting
(small) fixings into this sort of brick. Nowadays things are not so
simple and this may be a situation where resin fixed anchors are the
answer. However, never having used them I am very sceptical of their
effectiveness/ease of use and doubt my ability to achieve a sound
fixing with them.
Rgds
Richard
The Medway Handyman
Size is marked on the head. They do cut a thread into the brick, so
they fix without expanding.
> How do they cope with ragged holes and friable - if that's the right
> word - bricks?
Less likely to split a dodgy brick cos they don't expand.
>
> In the good(?) old days I would have used Rawlplastic when putting
> (small) fixings into this sort of brick. Nowadays things are not so
> simple and this may be a situation where resin fixed anchors are the
> answer. However, never having used them I am very sceptical of their
> effectiveness/ease of use and doubt my ability to achieve a sound
> fixing with them.
There was a thread about them not long ago. Never used resin fixings myself
tony sayer
>> (small) fixings into this sort of brick. Nowadays things are not so
>> simple and this may be a situation where resin fixed anchors are the
>> answer. However, never having used them I am very sceptical of their
>> effectiveness/ease of use and doubt my ability to achieve a sound
>> fixing with them.
>
>There was a thread about them not long ago. Never used resin fixings myself
>
>
Well we had to use them on a job fixing some aerial panels to a concrete
water tower as that was the only method of fixing they'd permit.
The riggers doing the job reckoned that only an explosion would shift
the once they'd gone off. Wasn't cheap the ones they used;!...
--
Tony Sayer