Wheelie Bin repair compound?

[Yvonne]

I want to use an old wheelie bin for water storage but the bin I have
available has a couple of splits/holes where the axle mounts are
located.

Is there some type of plastic repair compound that can be moulded in
and around the holes so as to reinforce it and make it water tight.

Thanks,

Yvonne

[js.b1]

I suspect the bin is made of Polypropylene, look for a triangular
symbol with the letters "PP" inside it.

The problem with polypropylene is that the material has a low surface
energy, that means gluing is rather difficult. Specialist glues do
exist but they are quite expensive. I suspect normal epoxy putty
products will not work unless moulded both inside and out around a
hole which is difficult.

You could line the bin - pond liner or a giant heavy gauge plastic
bag? Neither like UV re sunlight tho.

[Mr Pounder]

"Yvonne" <letsh...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1ec57230-63eb-4b71...@b26g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...

I doubt that any wheelie bins are water tight.

[Tim]

You'd be wrong. I had one for years that I used for test running a small
outboard motor. All of ours (apart from the compost ones) are watertight.

Tim

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <728d5a99-58a9-4e91...@3g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>,

"js.b1" <js...@ntlworld.com> writes:
> I suspect the bin is made of Polypropylene, look for a triangular
> symbol with the letters "PP" inside it.
>
> The problem with polypropylene is that the material has a low surface
> energy, that means gluing is rather difficult. Specialist glues do
> exist but they are quite expensive. I suspect normal epoxy putty
> products will not work unless moulded both inside and out around a
> hole which is difficult.

+1

If the crack is on a flat or singularly curved surface, you can
seal it with the application of a good quality wide insulating
tape. Make sure the surface is clean and dry first. The water
pressure will help keep the tape on. I had some tape like this
in a tank for 15 years, without ever having to even replace it,
and it never leaked.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[newshound]

Agree with what you say about sticking. It can also be welded with the
right kit but that needs skill and/or luck (never had any success
myself). But things like non-setting mastics ("frame sealant") will
stick to it, especially if there is a decent area involved. So one
strategy, if the geometry is favourable, is to fit an aluminium "patch"
over one side, sealed with a liberal application of mastic. Pop rivets
are good to hold this in place. If the crack looks like it might extend,
drill a small hole (~ 2 mm dia) at each end to act as a stopper. You can
use a patch each side, or large washers to spread the load on the non
patch side. Can also use nuts and bolts. Works best for a crack/split in
a reasonably flat area.

I recently repaired a PP wheelbarrow where a palm-sized piece had been
knocked out on a corner using steel strip with pop rivets for the main
reinforcement and Evostik "flashband" to provide a smooth interior and a
seal. That seems to be sticking OK so far.

[Davey]

I used a pre-wheelie bin for water storage, complete with tap, for
ages. It only died when somebody knocked it over and the tap was forced
into the water part, tearing the plastic.
--
Davey.

[The Other Mike]

On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 11:05:55 -0700 (PDT), Yvonne <letsh...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Go on, admit you're going to fill it with petrol instead of water...


--

[Davey]

Blimey, strike a light.
--
Davey.

[The Natural Philosopher]

hot glue may work here. Its worth a try anyway.


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

[Steve Firth]

Yvonne <letsh...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I want to use an old wheelie bin for water storage but the bin I have
> available has a couple of splits/holes where the axle mounts are
> located.

Polypropylene should be welded. It's fairly easy to do, but I wouldn't
expect to get an acceptable, strong weld on a first try. You need a
filler material (polypropylene) and a means of applying heat. A gas
powered soldering iron with a tip designed for welding polypropylene is
the best choice. I've welded many polypropylene petrol tanks[1] for
generators/compressors this way

Heat along the line of the crack/gap with the iron and blend the
material from each side of the gap together. Add extra material using
the rod of filler material (or take offcuts from another polypropylene
container and add those to the melt). Use the narrow chisel (knifeblade)
of the soldering iron to melt the material and use the edge of the blade
to smooth over the plastic. Care and practice can result in a weld that
is as strong as the original. Large areas need a hot air blower and a
tool to smooth/blend the plastic together.


[1] Don't try this unless you know exactly what you are doing. The tank
needs to be purged of all petrol and vapour before welding.

[Bill Wright]

Steve Firth wrote:
> Yvonne <letsh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I want to use an old wheelie bin for water storage but the bin I have
>> available has a couple of splits/holes where the axle mounts are
>> located.

Just pinch one from the next street, surely? People have such funny
ideas nowadays.

Bill

[Brian Gaff]

What about some form of epoxy?
Would the heat generated when its cured help with the bond?

Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email: bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________


"Andrew Gabriel" <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jqlusp$a8j$1...@dont-email.me...

[Steve Firth]

"Brian Gaff" <Bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> What about some form of epoxy?
> Would the heat generated when its cured help with the bond?

Epoxy doesn't stick to polypropylene or polyethylene. Both are used as
moulds or as tools to work with epoxy because after it has cured you can
peel the polypropylene away from the epoxy.

[Rod Speed]

Brian Gaff <Bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote

> What about some form of epoxy?

Bet it wont stick.

> Would the heat generated when its cured help with the bond?

Nope.

> Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote
>> js.b1 <js...@ntlworld.com> wrote

[Martin Brown]

On 06/06/2012 01:06, Steve Firth wrote:
> Yvonne<letsh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I want to use an old wheelie bin for water storage but the bin I have
>> available has a couple of splits/holes where the axle mounts are
>> located.
>
> Polypropylene should be welded. It's fairly easy to do, but I wouldn't
> expect to get an acceptable, strong weld on a first try. You need a
> filler material (polypropylene) and a means of applying heat. A gas
> powered soldering iron with a tip designed for welding polypropylene is
> the best choice. I've welded many polypropylene petrol tanks[1] for
> generators/compressors this way

I have used pond liner and the glue intended for that purpose to make
interior repairs to old bins used on building sites that were cracked by
mishandling and thrown out to make water butts for my garden.

The solvent glue also softens the main plastic slightly making it swell
and so generates a reasonable bond onto the crack. Needs about 3-4"
either side of the crack to ensure there is enough bonding. And you
might have to put some clay silt in the first batch of water to seal up
any tiny gaps. They don't like being moved at all.

You have to experiment to get it right but it is easier than hot
welding. Takes ages to cure though. Mastic would be the other option
instead of solvent based glue.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[Allan]

I used a wheelie bin for water storage for a while (impromptu water butt
off the greenhouse) and it was fine.

[Mr Pounder]

"Tim" <timdow...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:744150583360623903.305724...@reader80.eternal-september.org...

I said I doubt, not that they are not.
Okay?

[Tim]

On what did you base your doubt? Personal experience?

Tim

[ARWadsworth]

That would be my suggestion:-)

--
Adam

[geoff]

In message

<728d5a99-58a9-4e91...@3g2000vbx.googlegroups.com>, js.b1
<js...@ntlworld.com> writes

I'd just line it with a polythene sheet

that or an elephant's condom


--
geoff

[Mike Barnes]

geoff <tr...@uk-diy.org>:
>In message <728d5a99-58a9-4e91...@3g2000vbx.googlegroups

unused

--
Mike Barnes

[IdleHans]

I have seen a YouTube video where a soldering iron was used to close a large crack. There was a capital letter warning to AVOID TOXIC FUMES. The problem might be the weight of water it must hold. I dont know the answer to holes.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/wheelie-bin-repair-compound-812669-.htm

[John Walliker]

On Tuesday, 27 June 2023 at 02:45:07 UTC+1, IdleHans wrote:
> I have seen a YouTube video where a soldering iron was used to close a large crack. There was a capital letter warning to AVOID TOXIC FUMES. The problem might be the weight of water it must hold. I dont know the answer to holes.
>

Some difficult to glue materials can be made more reactive by momentarily playing
a hot flame over the surface. This is sometimes done with PTFE. However,
the warning about good ventilation is particularly important in that case.

A safer alternative is etching with an organo-sodium compound such as Tetra-etch.
A more extreme approach is etching with sodium dissolved in liquid ammonia.
Welding seems a lot easier!

John