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Fitting copper draft strip
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Tim+
Oct 5, 2022, 7:44:14 AM10/5/22
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Anyone done this? Our inner porch door has gaps between the frame and the
door. Fitting foam strips to the closing face of the frame would stop the
door latching and I think would make the door hard to close.
I think a copper strip would be the best solution for me but it’s
moderately expensive so just asking for experience before I order some up.
Are there better or cheaper alternatives?
https://amzn.eu/d/1yxfsDW
Tim
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Please don't feed the trolls
Theo
Oct 5, 2022, 7:59:47 AM10/5/22
to
Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone done this? Our inner porch door has gaps between the frame and the
> door. Fitting foam strips to the closing face of the frame would stop the
> door latching and I think would make the door hard to close.
>
> I think a copper strip would be the best solution for me but it’s
> moderately expensive so just asking for experience before I order some up.
> Are there better or cheaper alternatives?
Have you checked the adjustment of the hinges, latch and striking plate? I
>
> Anyone done this? Our inner porch door has gaps between the frame and the
> door. Fitting foam strips to the closing face of the frame would stop the
> door latching and I think would make the door hard to close.
>
> I think a copper strip would be the best solution for me but it’s
> moderately expensive so just asking for experience before I order some up.
> Are there better or cheaper alternatives?
did something similar with foam, only to discover that I could close the gap
by just adjusting the door mechanism - tweaking the striking plate pulled in
the (UPVC) door in more tightly against the gasket.
Theo
Tim+
Oct 5, 2022, 8:40:09 AM10/5/22
to
the old one was very floppy and let the door rattle. Still leaves a gap
that drafts can get through.
GB
Oct 5, 2022, 10:32:36 AM10/5/22
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Tim+
Oct 5, 2022, 10:55:19 AM10/5/22
to
Tim+
Oct 5, 2022, 10:55:19 AM10/5/22
to
Chris Hogg <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> I have used it for years - I've always known it as Atomic Strip - AKA
> 'proper copper' draught excluder, except that I believe it's
> phosphor-bronze; no matter. My parents used it on a house in the early
> 1950's so it's been around a long time. Comes with a pack of small
> brass pin-nails, and a little wheel tool for raising it once the strip
> is in place. It's effective at bridging gaps around older wooden doors
> and frames where the gap is too large for adhesive foam strip. No good
> for modern PVC though - the door and frames must be wood. I've just
> done a couple of doors in a church schoolroom where our local Archive
> is housed, to keep out draughts and hopefully cut down heating costs a
> little.
>
> Instructions are provided.
>
> It's a bit of a pain to nail up - literally - the strip is dimpled
> along one edge, every inch (2.54 cm for the imperially challenged)
> where you're supposed to put the nails. But holding the strip, and the
> small nail, in one hand and hitting the nail with a pin hammer in a
> restricted space is not so easy. It does get easier once you've hit
> your fingers a few times and developed a knack, and a few sore fingers
> to boot. Holding the pins in pliers helps, and doing top, middle and
> bottom on the first run, then spacing the nails at say twelve inches,
> then filling in every six inches, then every three, and so on until
> it's all done.
>
> Then you run the little wheel tool up one side and it raises the strip
> so that it fills the gap (or it's supposed to - requires quite a lot
> of pressure and running over the same strip several times). I finish
> off by simply prizing up the edge with my fingers where needed.
>
> When it's in place, you do get a slight scraping noise from the latch
> side as the door closes and opens, but on the hinge side it just
> presses quietly on the spring-loaded strip. You can nail the strip to
> either the side jambs or the edge of the door, whichever you prefer,
> but make sure you get it the right way round, especially on the latch
> side. I also found it much easier to nail it across the top of the
> door rather than the underside of the head jam - holding the strip in
> place, holding the nail and wielding the hammer all upside down is
> tricky - let gravity take the strain.
>
> A minor problem - if the strip isn't raised quite far enough in places
> to make firm contact with the door when it closed, and you get a
> strong gale blowing onto that side of the house, the strip can behave
> like the reed in a wind instrument and emit a ghostly wail. Scares
> hell out of the pets!
>
Thanks for all that. Think I might try the V Seal mentioned in another
reply first.
> 'proper copper' draught excluder, except that I believe it's
> phosphor-bronze; no matter. My parents used it on a house in the early
> 1950's so it's been around a long time. Comes with a pack of small
> brass pin-nails, and a little wheel tool for raising it once the strip
> is in place. It's effective at bridging gaps around older wooden doors
> and frames where the gap is too large for adhesive foam strip. No good
> for modern PVC though - the door and frames must be wood. I've just
> done a couple of doors in a church schoolroom where our local Archive
> is housed, to keep out draughts and hopefully cut down heating costs a
> little.
>
> Instructions are provided.
>
> It's a bit of a pain to nail up - literally - the strip is dimpled
> along one edge, every inch (2.54 cm for the imperially challenged)
> where you're supposed to put the nails. But holding the strip, and the
> small nail, in one hand and hitting the nail with a pin hammer in a
> restricted space is not so easy. It does get easier once you've hit
> your fingers a few times and developed a knack, and a few sore fingers
> to boot. Holding the pins in pliers helps, and doing top, middle and
> bottom on the first run, then spacing the nails at say twelve inches,
> then filling in every six inches, then every three, and so on until
> it's all done.
>
> Then you run the little wheel tool up one side and it raises the strip
> so that it fills the gap (or it's supposed to - requires quite a lot
> of pressure and running over the same strip several times). I finish
> off by simply prizing up the edge with my fingers where needed.
>
> When it's in place, you do get a slight scraping noise from the latch
> side as the door closes and opens, but on the hinge side it just
> presses quietly on the spring-loaded strip. You can nail the strip to
> either the side jambs or the edge of the door, whichever you prefer,
> but make sure you get it the right way round, especially on the latch
> side. I also found it much easier to nail it across the top of the
> door rather than the underside of the head jam - holding the strip in
> place, holding the nail and wielding the hammer all upside down is
> tricky - let gravity take the strain.
>
> A minor problem - if the strip isn't raised quite far enough in places
> to make firm contact with the door when it closed, and you get a
> strong gale blowing onto that side of the house, the strip can behave
> like the reed in a wind instrument and emit a ghostly wail. Scares
> hell out of the pets!
>
Thanks for all that. Think I might try the V Seal mentioned in another
reply first.
Chris Green
Oct 5, 2022, 11:03:07 AM10/5/22
to
wonderful [un]musical instrument. We had one some years ago and in
strong winds it produced a very loud horn sort of noise. The first
time it happened it was terrifying until we realised what it was!
--
Chris Green
·
GB
Oct 5, 2022, 2:47:35 PM10/5/22
to
On 05/10/2022 15:46, Chris Hogg wrote:
> It's a bit of a pain to nail up - literally
I've never tried one of these:
> It's a bit of a pain to nail up - literally
https://www.axminstertools.com/ram-pin-or-push-pin-111078
Do they work.
GB
Oct 5, 2022, 2:53:55 PM10/5/22
to
Brian Gaff
Oct 6, 2022, 5:23:24 AM10/6/22
to
What are those bristly things called that are fitted on the bottom of doors.
I guess if that does not work a kind of very long windscreen wiper blade
material might work.
Brian
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"Tim+" <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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I guess if that does not work a kind of very long windscreen wiper blade
material might work.
Brian
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"Tim+" <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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Brian Gaff
Oct 6, 2022, 5:25:53 AM10/6/22
to
Trouble is doors seem to twist or warp and then whatever you adjust it makes
something else not work. In my case I can stop the draught, but then the
bottom pin won't allow the handle to be pulled up for locking it so I had
to remove the plate altogether.
news:XBw*RX...@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk...
something else not work. In my case I can stop the draught, but then the
bottom pin won't allow the handle to be pulled up for locking it so I had
to remove the plate altogether.
Brian
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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
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"Theo" <theom...@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote in message
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