chipboard iron-on edging tape

[Fred]

Hello,

I bought a roll of chipboard edging from the timber merchant and
because it is a trade pack, there are no instructions.

I thought it just ironed on? Are there any special instructions? Do I
just use an iron on the lowest heat? Is it advisable to iron through a
tea towel rather than direct on to the tape?

The chipboard I bought at the same time is 16mm thick but the tape is
about 20mm. Does it shrink when heated or is the idea to give an
overlap to hide the join between the two sheets of wood? Or am I
supposed to cut it to size (how?)

Thanks in advance.

[Steve Walker]

Lay the tape over clean dry board edge, with 2mm overhanging top & bottom.

Cover it with a teatowel or brown paper, and apply a steamless iron to it
firmly. After a few seconds pull the iron away and hold the tape down
firmly with a piece of scrap wood while it cools & sets. You'll get a feel
for how long is needed after a few tries. When the edging is all attached,
check carefully for unsecured sections and apply localised heat to melt
those in.

When it's all cooled off, use a stanley knife (new blade) or a good chisel
or plane to cut a neat chamfered edge at the top and bottom (and at the
bullnose front). Steady hand, even line, the precise angle isn't important.

[Geo]

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 15:20:36 +0000, Fred <fr...@no-email.here.invalid> wrote:

>I bought a roll of chipboard edging from the timber merchant and
>because it is a trade pack, there are no instructions.
>
>I thought it just ironed on? Are there any special instructions? Do I
>just use an iron on the lowest heat? Is it advisable to iron through a
>tea towel rather than direct on to the tape?

I use a fairly hot iron (but not hot enough to scorch the veneer) no tea towel -
but be sure the iron's owner/operator does not return unexpectedly as there may
be some surplus glue to remove from the soleplate

--
Geo

[Steve Walker]

Are you sure that it's iron on? Most I have seen is, but I have had some
real-wood effect that had to be attached with contact adhesive.

SteveW

[The Medway Handyman]

Good point that, I've come across some lately from Wickes that I thought
would be iron on, but wasn't. No Nails works OK.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Owain]

On 14 Mar, 18:04, Geo wrote:
> but be sure the iron's owner/operator does not return unexpectedly as there may
> be some surplus glue to remove from the soleplate

Those who remembered to buy the iron's owner/operator a shiny new one
as a gift today now have the old one to use for gluey things.

And for keeping the doghouse warm ...

Owain

[Malcolm]

Also make sure that the edge is as smooth as possible so that the glue
has more than kist a few high points to stick to. This applies to iron
on or stuck on.

Malcolm

[Rick Hughes]

"Fred" <fr...@no-email.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:ujupp593lb3aka1tm...@4ax.com...

Used this a few times ....use an iron direct on dry heat - on hot.
Keep it moving with firm even pressure, trim had to get quite hot for the
glue to melt.
It does shrink slightly ... so I leave an overlap and sand back.

[Rod]

I have always used a piece of ordinary brown wrapping paper between the
iron and the strip.

(Mind, I have used it that much so what others with more experience post
is possibly better informed.)

--
Rod

[Cicero]

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 15:20:36 +0000, Fred wrote:

================================================

Use a fairly hot iron and use it to *heat the chipboard* before applying
the edging strip. I use an old, soft handkerchief to protect the edging
strip from excessive heat during ironing. Leave to cool fully before
trimming with a Stanley knife almost flat on the surface. Finish the cut
edges with fine sand paper.

Cic.

--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================

[The Natural Philosopher]

I use model covering irons especially designed for the job, that also
cope with the iron on strips.

Hot is good up till the point you scorch. If the iron is clean no issues
otherwise use a sock over it or summat.

Plane back and sand back for perfect finish.

[John Whitworth]

"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@no-spam-blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:UOann.50286$Ym4....@text.news.virginmedia.com...

The stuff that came with my new worktop was not iron-on. Fortunately, as the
missus works for a small kitchen company, they did it for me, lovely and
neat, with Evostik. The boss explained to me how to do it, but it was such a
convoluted process - spread glue - wait etc - then stick it perfectly, first
time, that when he offered to do it for me, I jumped at the chance! :-)

JW

[Fred]

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 16:47:29 -0000, "Steve Walker"
<spam...@beeb.net> wrote:

>When it's all cooled off, use a stanley knife (new blade) or a good chisel
>or plane to cut a neat chamfered edge at the top and bottom (and at the
>bullnose front). Steady hand, even line, the precise angle isn't important.

Thanks I have now done this, so thanks for all your help. I used a
Stanley knife to trim. A couple of posters mentioned using a plane but
I wasn't brave enough to try that; I would have been worried about
planing the veneer off the chipboard at the same time! I suppose the
other suggestion about a chisel would have worked, providing it was
nice and sharp.

Another reply asked if it was iron on. I just assumed it was and
luckily it was! Is there a way to tell other than try and see what
happens?